Saturday, January 31, 2009

Are You Listening To Your Cat Talking

Writen by Larry Chamberlain

Is your cat talking to you?

Many cat lovers claim that their feline pets talk to them. They believe their cats can communicate vocally with them and tell them what they want, how they are feeling, and ask how their day has been! So, can domestic cats talk? Can the meows and trills that emanate from your kitty really be described as your cat talking to you?

Yes it can!, and no it can't...

Cats can not communicate vocally in the same way that humans can, of course. Cats, in common with other animals, have not developed language as such, they cannot question, debate or describe. But, cats do have extraordinary powers of letting you know what they want, and largely by using their vocal skills.

The vocal repertoire of pet cats is greater than most animals because it draws its range of sounds from two distinct vocabularies. In its relationship with other felines, your cat grows from defensive kitten, to an independent adult, and the vocal sounds used for cat talking changes accordingly. But with human companions domestic cats remain very much dependent kittens, and will look upon their owners as their mothers. A modified variety of kitten sounds is used to talk to humans to communicate messages such as "Feed me now!", "I want your attention".

It is well known that certain breeds of cats talk more than others. Ask any Siamese cat owner and they will tell you that their pet holds long conversations with them, using its voice to impart an impressive range of meanings. Longhaired breeds, such as the Persian, tend to use their voice more sparingly and are less often heard talking.

Cats use body language to communicate just as extensively as they use their voice to talk. We humans, however are not so bright in picking up on these body messages. The tail is used to convey acceptance, fear, annoyance, contentment, and warnings. The ears too, are often used by the cat to signal warnings of annoyance.

Nonetheless, nothing is as effective for the cat, in getting a message to humans, as its voice. You may not be looking at your cat when it is trying to tell you something, in which case body language, even if you can interpret it correctly, doesn't do the job. Cats are silent movers, you may not hear your cat enter the kitchen, but you will hear the meeeow! that says "get busy with the can opener!", that's your cat talking!

© Copyright 2004 best-cat-art.com - cat talking

About The Author

If you have a pet related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, provided the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this resource box and live link to http://www.best-cat-art.com

Cat art posters, art prints, cat calendars and cat collectibles. Great cat gifts for yourself or your cat loving friends.

Friday, January 30, 2009

Whats Hot This Season New Trends In Dog Clothing

Writen by Grant Carroll

It used to be the hot thing to dress parent and child alike. This day and age, however, the child being dressed is four-legged and furry. The younger generation is having less children and satisfying their parental desires with pampered pooches. So, there are a large number of people looking to spoil their dogs and themselves by dishing out the dough on designer dog clothes. Just like human clothing, dog clothing designs get their inspiration on runways around the world and lead many different styles and colors to be the in thing this season.

The inventive colors and designs on models in Milan, Paris and New York have found their way into dog clothing boutiques around the world. Designers have only a short time after the human fashion shows to develop their new lines to go along with what the parents will be wearing. "The dog version of clothing must not only match human styles, it must also be functional for the dog" said Onika Carroll, a designer for Elizabeth Austin. All of these challenges lead to a varied array of dog clothing ranging from the cute and simple to the haute couture.

The different styles that are in this season include an assortment of day and evening wear as well as beach wear. Longer dresses and even ball gowns are going to be hot thanks to the popularity of the TV show "Dancing with the Stars". The good news for retailers is and customers is that there is a wide variety of gowns and dresses to fit anyone's taste. Colors like pink, lilac and lime green are strong this season, and polka dots and floral designs are prominent as well. Another fashion choice that should be popular is having sequins or appliqués of hearts and butterflies. Pooch parents want their girl dogs to be dainty and their boy dogs to be cool or tough. A very popular print this season for boys and some girls is anything camouflage. The bottom line is, there's going to be plenty for everyone to choose what style fits them and their baby best.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters. Also visit Elizabeth Austin for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

The Top Three Pet Rat Training Mistakes

Writen by Colin Patterson

It can be very rewarding to train your pet rats to do tricks and learn obstacle courses. Since they tend to be highly intelligent creatures, rats can actually learn a lot (and get bored if they have nothing to do).

Furthermore, because they're people-pleasers, rats enjoy the challenge of striving for your reward and praise.

However, before you begin training, you may be interested to know the main pitfalls of pet rat training. That way, you can get started on the right foot and make the most of training time. Here are the top three mistakes that novice rat-trainers will often make:

1. Neglecting to create a stimulating living environment for their rats. Sometimes trainers make the mistake of thinking that their ratties' living environment doesn't need to be interesting or fun to be in. They seem to think that an hour of play time or training time is enough to stimulate their little minds. This is untrue. Rats are constantly problem-solving, 24/7. Giving them a stimulating and challenging living environment will ensure that their minds stay sharp for learning tricks.

  • Buy or build a large caged enclosure complete with shelves, ramps, ladders, cubby holes, bins, hammocks, exercise wheels, tunnels, hidey holes, baskets and ropes strung across.
  • Occasionally, treat them to a game of "hide n' seek" with sunflower seeds. Hide them in hard-to-reach places so they really have to think hard about how to get to them.
  • Be sure to adjust and rearrange the furniture and food locations. Always keep 'em guessing.
  • Make playtime games challenging as well with swimming pools, sand boxes and tunnel-mazes.

2. Being too "results oriented" about training. One major pitfall a rat owner can fall into is to be too demanding about what is to be accomplished during training. This approach to rat-training will only end in frustration and neglect. Never forget that training is just an extension of play time and that repetition, along with positive reinforcement, is the key to success.

3. Forgetting to reinforce old tricks. As the saying goes "If you don't use it, you lose it." The first-time rat trainer will often teach his rats a few basic tricks, move on to other ones for several weeks, only to discover that his rats have forgotten the first tricks! Just because a rat learns a trick, it does not mean that the little guy will remember it later. Reinforcement is everything. This is why, when teaching a rat to run an obstacle course, the trainer must tack a new obstacle onto the one(s) that were previously learned. Otherwise, the rat will fail to remember the first obstacles learned.

So, remember: keep their lives full of challenges at all times; try to be patient and not to get too attached to results and accomplishments; and don't take it for granted that they will remember those first tricks they learned... because they won't. Repeat and reinforce their learning at all times!

Knowing about these three major pitfalls will go a long way in helping you to make the most of your rats' intelligences and abilities; and as long as you are together, you will look forward to training time every single day.

Colin Patterson is author of a guide to pet rats that will teach you the proper way to train your little ratties. Visit Colin's site at http://www.petratguide.com

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Dog Training With R Amp R Works

Writen by John Dow

Dog behavior training is both an art and a science. Some experts say that a dog can have up to an 800-word vocabulary. I'm not so convinced of the number of words but I can verify that many of my dogs showed an uncanny ability to figure out exactly what I was trying to communicate.

One of the best dog training tips I ever got was from a neighbor when I got my first puppy. I was about 9 years old and this was the best present my parents had ever given me. My neighbor was an old hand at training dogs and had living proof in his own dog.

The first thing I did when I got Skipper (not sure why I picked that name, it just sounded right) was to rush over and show my neighbor. His name was hard to pronounce so every one in the neighborhood just called him Mr. D. So Mr. D was kind enough to run through some dog training basics and taught me a lot about how to take care of my new puppy.

Mr. D's dog was a Jack Terrier called Willie. Willie could do any trick and would respond to almost any request. Willie pretty much had the run of the neighborhood and was known by all. In those days people just let their dog out since there were no leash laws and no one complained. My Mom often gave Willie any leftovers or a soup bones when he would stop by for a visit.

So when I showed up with Skipper, Willie was as excited as I was to have a new playmate. Skipper was a Springer Spaniel that we had rescued from the city dog pound. Skipper was probably about 6 months old but we never knew for sure since the dog pound didn't know when he was born.

The first order of business was your basic dog house training. I got off pretty easy on this phase since Skipper seemed to prefer going outside to do his bathroom chores. From day one Skipper would go to the door and want to be let out when he needed to go.

Mr. D explained that the two most important things about any kind of dog training were rewards and repetition. The reward could be as simple as praise or a pat on the head. And that I should spend at least 30 minutes a day working with Skipper on anything I wanted to teach him to do.

So each day I would spend 30 minutes teaching Skipper how to stay, sit, fetch, and come when I called. Willie would come over and help too. I don't know if they actually communicated but having another dog around that already knew all these tricks had to be beneficial.

Skipper also showed a high aptitude for retrieving. Of course I didn't know at the time that he was a natural born retriever and took credit for being a great and skilled dog trainer. Once I got the basics down I worked on teaching Skipper how to heel, play dead, and not to jump on people.

Skipper started learning on his own too. When I was at school or somewhere that Skipper couldn't go, my mother would be his next choice in companion. In those days we had what was called a Bookmobile that was a bus from the local library that would come to the neighborhood twice a week.

Skipper figured out that when the Bookmobile came he got to go for a walk with my mother. So like clockwork, Skipper would come to get my mother when it was about 2:00 pm on Tuesday and Friday. Skipper loved to go since he got to sit at the door and welcome every one that showed up each day.

Skipper also knew when it was Saturday. Saturday was grocery-shopping day and when my mother went to the store she always asked the meat department for some bones. Skipper knew that he would get his favorite snack on Saturday afternoons when my mother came back from the store.

For the next 14 years Skipper was my constant companion and escort. Skipper was an exceptional dog in disposition, learning ability, and affection. I also had a big advantage having a helpful neighbor and watching him and his dog. Mr. D and Willie were both a huge help and positive influence.

Dog training does require some dedicated effort but the rewards are more than worth the investment. My current dog, Tuxcitto, is a 24/7 project since he is a Border Collie and full of vim and vigor. But Tuxcitto is a lot like Skipper in that he is a fast learner and extremely affectionate companion.

John Dow owns http://www.freedogtrainingarticles.com, a website that provides free information on dog training. John gets to test his dog training skills daily with his new dog Tuxcitto. You can learn more here: http://www.FreeDogTrainingArticles.com.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Is Declawing Bad For Your Cat

Writen by Lee Dobbins

You love your new cat, but he's clawing and scratching all your furniture! The immediate resolution that comes to mind is to have him declawed, but before you rush into this you should think long and hard for declawing a cat is not a simple procedure - it is a major surgery involving surgical amputation of the first joint of a cat's toe.

Declawing is a painful surgery for your cat. While your cat will get pain medication for his after surgery recovery, the tips of the nerves need time to heal and he can be in pain for weeks or even months until this has happened. This can cause your cuddly little kitty to become highly irritable and aggressive.

Not only that, but the claws are a cats chief chief weapon of defense. Sure, you take every precaution to make sure your cat doesn't get outside, but what if something happens and he finds himself alone in the elements facing other animals?

There will always be occasions when a cat may be confronted by other cats or dogs. Then, it will find it impossible to strike back, because it has no claws. To use its teeth, it needs to get close to its attacker, which may not happen. A declawed cat therefore become a helpless victim in front any aggressor.

Declawing can also lead to problems in the litter box. Declawed cats sometimes avoid the litter box and choose the softer carpet instead since it is painful for them to dig into the litter. Declawing can also lead to biting problems. Since this is their second line of defense, some cats may resort to deep biting to make up for their lack of claws. Even during play, your cat can no longer scratch as a warning and may be prone to biting now instead.

Claws and toes also provide exercise to your cat. When a cat stretches horizontally on a carpet or vertically with a tail scratching post, it pulls and stretches its muscles by grabbing the carpet or post with its claws. As a matter of fact, the cat's claws play a large and positive role in its extraordinary muscle tone and agility.

Finally, declawing can cause joint problems later on in your cats life. Cats walk on their toes so the absence of claws can affect all the joints of the leg resulting in arthritis of the hip and other joints later.

But you don't have to sacrifice your furniture in order to save your cat the pain of declawing. With time and patience you can train your cat to scratch in a more desirable area. Make sure you invest in a scratching post or accessory that your cat likes. Mine loves the simple corrugated cardboard slabs that you can buy in any pet store.

Watch your cat carefully and you will see a pattern of when and where he likes to scratch the most. Put the scratching post in the room where he likes to scratch and wait for him to scratch in his usual place. When you see him starting to scratch distract him and lead him over to the scratching post. Praise him when he uses the post and say "Bad Kitty" when he uses the furniture. Eventually he will start to favor the post - you just have to make him think it was his idea!

Lee Dobbins is a cat owner and animal lover. Visit Cats at the Family Webzone for more tips and info on cats.

Monday, January 26, 2009

Filtration Part One An Introduction

Writen by Allen Jesson

There exists a wide range of different aquarium equipment in the aquarium trade, and knowing what to buy can be difficult. The subject of filtration is certainly no exception, and when you visit an aquarium shop you can usually find a vast array of various filtration equipments; from comparatively inexpensive sponge filters to pricy protein skimmers. Different types of aquarium will require different types of filtration, and your experience as a aquarium keeper can also affect which type of filter that is ideal for you.

Another important question that you must ask your self is how much time and money you are prepared to spend, and how noise tolerant you and your family are. Do you have time to clean your filter very often, or do you need a filter system that pretty much take care of it self? Is it very important to you that the filter is silent, or is it okay to have a noisy filter system if you can save some money? You might be able to accept one type of filter for the aquarium in your garage, while a much more silent filter is necessary for the aquarium that you keep in your bed room.

By researching the various filter types before you start shopping for a filter, it will be much easier for you to determine what is best for your particular fish species, aquarium size and budget. This way, the risk of being lured in to purchasing a superfluous filter system will be decreased. The risk of getting a really cheap and low quality filter system that you are forced to replace after just a few months will also decrease.

As mentioned above, different aquariums will need different types of filtration. There is for instance a big difference between a saltwater aquarium and a freshwater aquarium. Not only are marine fish species typically more sensitive to poor water quality; the basic water chemistry in a saltwater aquarium is also different which means that other forms of filtration can be used, e.g. the popular protein skimmer. A small aquarium will also typically need more powerful filtration than a medium sized or large aquarium, since the water mass is very small and therefore not capable of diluting a lot of waste products.

Recommending a filter that is ideal for any aquarium regardless of size, flora and fauna, water chemistry etc is naturally impossible. It is therefore also impossible to answer general questions such as "How much should a filter cost for my first aquarium?" or "Do I have to get a protein skimmer for my saltwater aquarium?" Certain types of aquariums can even be kept using biological filtration only - mechanical and chemical filters are not mandatory in successful aquarium keeping. You can also lower the need for mechanical filtration by not keeping messy eaters, by removing any free floating debris by hand, by devoting time and effort to the development of a properly functioning semi-ecosystem, and by never overfeeding your fish or leaving left over food in the water. An aquarium is too small to form a perfectly balanced ecosystem, and you are constantly adding nutrition from outside the system, but you can obtain a form of semi-ecosystem that only requires biological filtration and regular water changes to function. Such a system is however delicate, and for the novice aquarium keeper or the keeper of sensitive species, a combination of biological, mechanical and chemical filtration is usually necessary.

Allen Jesson writes for several sites including two sites that specialize in salt water and fresh water aquariums and the aquarium site and Seapets, a leading source for aquariums and fish tanks.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Stop The Itchy Fleas

Writen by Disney Pieces

"No, your dog is not pregnant but she has fleas", said the vet.

"Excuse me?"

(She lifts up the dog's tail) "You see all these fleas"

I was stunned. I give my dog flea preventative every month! She bathes monthly and she rarely goes outside. So how could she get fleas?

I learned that all the things I thought mattered did not. After all, what good is flea preventative if it doesn't work?

Based on my experience, I am going to tell you how to treat and prevent dog fleas.

First, an ounce of prevention is worth…well you know the rest.

It's easier to prevent fleas than to treat them. I recommend using a high quality flea preventative monthly. Avoid the cheap ones you find in the grocery store and the flea collars. You want to get a treatment that is applied directly to your dog's skin in between the shoulder blades.

If your dog gets fleas, you not only have to worry about getting the fleas off of your dog, but you have to get the fleas out of the environment. That means everywhere your dog has run, jumped, rested or thumped is full of flea eggs that you have to eliminate.

When you notice that your dog has fleas (If your dog has a lot of fleas, they will be easy to spot. But if it's only a few fleas you will need to check under your dog's belly. Then look under their tail)

If you notice fleas, it's time to act quickly. First you need to treat your dog. Your dog needs a Capstar pill which is a pill that immediately kills all adult fleas within a half hour. You can get this from your vet which will run you about $7 a pill, or you can check out some online stores where you can find it for $14 for a package of 6 pills.

After you apply the Capstar you need to follow up with a flea preventative. This is because the environment still has fleas and you don't want your dog to get re-infested during the treatment process. Though it can get pricey, I would recommend using Frontline or Advantage.

Next you need to treat the environment. Remove all the dog bedding and immediately wash it. Vacuum all the floors where the dog has had free run; after you vaccum throw away the vacuum bag because it probably contains flea eggs. Next you need to get your pet out of the house and spray your house down. I would recommend getting a bottle of Knockout ES from your vet. Spray all the carpet, all couch cushions, under all furniture and all nooks and crannies. If you use Knockout ES you will need to leave the house for a few hours after you spray because it is very strong.

Now you should have your dog and the environment under control. But there is still a chance that flea eggs did not get treated and are ready to hatch so in 2-3 weeks you need to repeat the environment treating. In 4 weeks, reapply toe Frontline or Advantage to your dog.

This article is courtesy of SmallDogBreedSite.com. Visit SmallDogBreedSite.com to subscribe to our ezine and get the latest information on caring for, traveling with, and shopping for your small dog breed.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Tips For Feeding Your Cat

Writen by Paul Hegarty

Walking down the cat food isle in a pet store could leave you quiet confused as to what food is best for your cat. There are certain nutrients that a cat must have, knowing these nutrients and making sure the food you buy has them listed as ingredients can help make the choice easier.

Other factors to consider are your cat's lifestyle, age and health. Cats need meat-based food to survive and remain healthy. The reason being that certain substances essential to cats cannot be manufactured synthetically and are only found in meat.

Different types of Food:
• Dry
• Semi-moist
• Wet/Moist

Dry:
Contains little water, is hard and crunchy which helps keep your cats teeth tartar-free. This can be left out all day for your cat without going off. Choose a variety that is low in magnesium to prevent Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disorder (FLUTD), where stones or crystals develop causing painful urination for your cat. Usually dry food contains all your cats nutrient requirements, but do not take it for granted, always check the label.

Semi-Moist:
Contains less water than canned food and often contains vegetable protein. This can be left out for your cat to snack on. Not all semi-moist foods contain the nutrients a cat needs and supplementation may be necessary so that your cat gets a complete diet.

Wet/Moist:
Has a high water content, comes in many flavors and is the food type preferred by most cats. Wet food goes off very quickly and any left over by your cat should be removed and not left out. Wet food easily looses its meaty smell, so if you notice your cat turning up his nose to a meal, this could be the reason. Buying the smaller canned food or food that comes in pouches is often the better choice as there will be less wastage. To help prevent tartar formation you can add a few dry biscuits to the food. Or leave a bowl of dry food out for your cat to eat during the day and feed wet food once a day.

Serve food at room temperature, if you have canned food in the fridge bring it to room temperature before offering to your cat. Always provide fresh drinking water to your cat. Cats do not need to drink cows milk and in fact if you offer it to them, they will likely have an upset tummy as they are unable to digest the milk sugar (lactose). Instead offer a brand of cat milk found at your local pet store.

If you decide to feed your cat a home-made diet it is essential that you consult with your veterinarian as cats require many essential nutrients. These nutrients and requirements vary based on many factors, such as age and weight along with whether or not your cat will be indoors or outdoors.

Guide to Cats. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your cat, learn more about Cat Feeders.

Paul Hegarty is the owner of learningfromdvds.com. Price compare Fitness DVDs, read reviews, download free E-books. Read this month's e-book on "How To Spot A fraudulent Email". Grab your free copy today.

Friday, January 23, 2009

Hiking With Your Dog Down The Blue Ridge Parkway

Writen by Doug Gelbert

Begun as a Depression-era public works project, the Blue Ridge Parkway was America's first rural parkway. When ultimately completed it was also the nation's longest - 469 miles of uninterrupted mountain roads linking Shenandoah National Park in the north to the Great Smokey Mountains National Park in the south. The Blue Ridge Parkway is far and away the most popular destination in the National Park System - more than 19 million recreation visits per year. One of the explanations for its enduring popularity could be that the Blue Ridge is also one of America's most dog-friendly destinations.

Designed for leisurely motoring, the speed limit never exceeds 45 mph on the Parkway and roadside parking is permitted on the shoulders the entire way. Much of the beautiful road is lined by low stone walls. At times the route shrinks to scarcely 25 yards in width. You will never see a billboard and scarcely any development. Parks and recreation areas - several spanning thousands of acres - appear roughly every 30 miles, although most are located in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the 355 miles that comprise the northern part of the route. The lower 114 miles wind through the powerful Black Mountains, named for the dark green spruce that cover the massive slopes, and they offer more limited leg-stretching opportunities.

There is no reason for you and the dog to enjoy the Blue Ridge solely through your car windows. Dogs are allowed on the more than 100 varied trails throughout the Blue Ridge Parkway, ranging from easy valley strolls to demanding mountain summit hikes. Travelers and canine hikers can spend a week motoring on the Parkway and barely sample all its treasures. And it is no trouble to slow down and take as much time as you like on the trails - all the nine first come, first served campgrounds on the Parkway welcome dogs. You will find many of the inns and restaurants in the small towns that flank the Parkway to be dog-friendly as well.

Tracing the route from the north, an early highlight comes within the first ten miles at the Humpback Rocks where the Greenstone nature trail leads to the unusually shaped boulders. A strenuous climb accesses the Appalachian Trail in another two miles. Canine hikers will look forward to the Peaks of Otter, in the vicinity of the highest mountains on the Virginia section of the Parkway, beginning around the 75-mile mark. Three mountains - Sharp Top (3,875 feet), Flat Top (4,004 feet), and Harkening Hill (3,364 feet) comprise the Peaks of Otter, a popular hiking destination since Colonial days when Thomas Jefferson was an enthusiastic visitor. The 4.4-mile trail to the Flat Top summit is graded most of the way until jumbled rocks provide athletic dogs a tail-wagging workout.

Also in the Peaks of Otter are a quick loop hike threading through rhododendron and mountain laurel on Onion Mountain and the 1.6-mile loop of the Fallingwater Cascades National Scenic Trail. Both offer splendid views in exchange for moderate effort. At the 167-mile mark comes Rocky Knob, with 15 miles of trails across 4,800 acres. The marquee walk here is the rugged 10.8-mile Rock Castle Gorge National Recreation Trail. Just down the road is picturesque Mabry Mill with an easy, self-guiding trail spiced with interpretive exhibits and in-season demonstrations on rural Appalachian life. Water-powered Mabry Mill is the most photographed landmark on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The first canine hiking after the Parkway crosses the Virginia state line into North Carolina comes on Cumberland Knob at the 217.5-mile mark. A quick 15- minute loop here leads to the knob and a more challenging 2-mile loop that traces Gully Creek. Next up is 7,000-acre Doughton Park, the largest recreation area on the Blue Ridge Parkway. More than 30 miles of trail and a dog-friendly campground are the prime attractions here.

The Moses H. Cone Memorial Park is a popular stopping point for relaxing or exploring. Many miles of horse and carriage trails jump off from the Historic Cone Manor House and many more trails crisscross neighboring Julian Price Memorial Park, which includes Price Lake, one of the few lakes along the Parkway. Even if hiking isn't on your itinerary when you reach this spot, you will want to stop and sit on the Manor House lawn with your dog and take in the views. In another 10 miles you cross the Linn Cove Viaduct, an engineering marvel skirting the side of Grandfather Mountain.

Ground was broken on the Blue Ridge Parkway on September 11, 1935 at Cumberland Knob on the North Carolina-Virginia border, near the mid-point of the proposed route. By 1967 all but seven and one-half of its 469 miles were complete. The final section, around the rocky slopes of Grandfather Mountain, one of the world's oldest mountains, would not be finished until 1987. To finish the Parkway without massive cuts and fills on the fragile mountainside would call for the most complicated concrete bridge ever built - the serpentine Linn Viaduct.

The 12 bridges of the Viaduct were constructed from the top down at an elevation of 4100 feet to eliminate the need for a pioneer road. In fact, the only trees cut down during the entire project were those directly beneath the roadbed. The only construction on the ground was the drilling of seven permanent piers upon which the Viaduct rests.

Exposed rock was even covered to present staining from the concrete epoxy binding the precast sections. To further minimize the intrusion on the mountain, concrete mixes were tinted with iron oxide to blend with existing outcroppings. Trails lead to views underneath this engineering marvel and access the 13.5-mile Tanawha Trail from Beacon Heights to Julian Price Park. You and the dog can pick your way along an interpretive trail to close-up views of the Viaduct.

A most-anticipated highlight of the Blue Ridge Parkway will be the upcoming Linville Gorge, one of the most remote locations in the Appalachians. Unblazed trails lead deep into the wilderness but most canine hikers will stick to the two main hiking trails surrounding Linville Falls. Erwins View Trail is a sporty walk that takes in four distinct overlooks of the plunging waters in its .8-mile journey. More challenging is the hike on the opposite side of the water into the gorge that descends through a virgin hemlock forest via a switchback to the water's edge beneath the Falls. This is a great place for a doggie dip.

South of Linville Falls the elevations climb and the canine hiking opportunities fade away. Craggy Pinnacle Trail at 364.4 miles is a narrow ridge trail that tunnels through purple rhododendron to a hilltop opening in a veritable sea of trees. A second moderate trail here is the Craggy Gardens nature trail. Nearby, a spur road leads up Mount Mitchell. Your dog can make the final paved ascent to the 6684- foot summit and stand on the highest point of ground east of the Mississippi River. The mountain was named for Dr. Elisha Mitchell, who fell to his death when trying to prove the actual height of the peak.

The last major recreation area on the Parkway comes south of Asheville at Mount Pisgah, once part of the 125,000-acre Biltmore Estate owned by George W. Vanderbilt. Vanderbilt directed trail building efforts across his vast property to provide access for hunting and horseback riding. It was the first large tract of managed forest land in America. The trail to summit views of Mt. Pisgah (5,721 feet) is a hardy 1.26-mile climb. While it is not a prime destination for dog owners, you may want to make arrangements to visit the Biltmore Estate, America's largest private home. Construction on the French Renaissance-style mansion began in 1889 and 250 rooms later was finished in 1895. Admission to Biltmore Estate includes a self-guided tour of the non-occupied parts of the house, access to the formal gardens and the Biltmore Estate Winery.

The final gasps for canine hiking on the Blue Ridge Parkway before entering Great Smoky Mountain National Park - where dogs are not allowed on the trails - occur at Milepost 431 where Richard Balsam's self-guiding trail wanders through the remnants of a spruce-fir forest on the highest point on the Parkway (6,047 feet) and at Waterrock Knob at Mile 451.2. Here a mountain trail leads to the knob and its panoramic, 4-state views of the Great Smokies.

Allow yourself three to five days to explore the Blue Ridge Parkway with your dog - a distance that could be covered in six hours of driving on the Interstate. Even that may not be enough time. Don't be surprised if you find yourself wanting to turn around and do it all again.

I am the author of over 20 books, including 8 on hiking with your dog and the widely praised The Canine Hiker's Bible. As publisher of Cruden Bay Books, we produce the innovative A Bark In The Park series of canine hiking books found at http://www.hikewithyourdog.com. During the warm months I lead canine hikes as tour leader for hikewithyourdog.com tours, leading packs of dogs and humans on day and overnight trips. Tours, ranging from one-day trips to multi-day explorations, visit parks, historical sites and beaches. My lead dog is Katie, a German Shepherd- Border Collie mix, who has hiked in all of the Lower 48 states and is on a quest to swim in all the great waters of North America - http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/. I am currently building a hikewithyourdog.com tours trailer to use on our expeditions and its progress can be viewed at http://web.mac.com/.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Larger Dog Food Isles

Writen by Lance Winslow

Grocery Stores could use some larger Dog Food Isles. Not because there are more brands of Dog Food. Not because there are more Pets. Not because there are more items for sale. The reason is that the level of quality of food Americans are eating these days is less than that of dog food. Have you recently read the ingredients of the food you are eating, with all the chemicals in it? The ingredients and chemicals on some of these labels certainly is not fit for human consumption.

Nor would you feed such food to your best friend and four-legged companion; at least I hope you wouldn't. But we all have tossed our dogs scraps from time to time, stuff that cannot possibly be good for them, as their evolutionary food supplies came from things they ate, not processed crap and chemical laden foods. Their systems are not set up to eat such things. Now, then so far you have not said a word, you have read this article and agreed with it for the most part, nodding your head. So then do you wonder why humans who eat this food, are over weight, having health issues and are finding themselves at odds with their ambitions and life goals? Why they lack the energy to press on, or become lethargic when a task needs to get done? Could it be the food we are eating? Eating food that taste good from that special blend of chemicals to spike the taste buds, to the point we no longer smell the food we eat and simply wait for that perceived sugar flavor, which is not sugar at all really, just more simulated chemicals that appears to be sugar.

If we put all the food which has all this stuff in it in the dog food isle, then there would be 22 isles of dog food and 5 isles of real food and of course we would all know what side of the store to shop on to stay healthy and fit. Think on this.

Lance Winslow

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Did You Know

Writen by Debbie Ray

German Shepherds were among the first dogs trained for police work- beginning around 1900 in Ghent, Belgium.

Dog's body cells contain the most pairs of chromosomes (heredity- carrying structures) of any mammal- 39 pairs.

There is an old Chinese belief that if a person owns a good and faithful dog that the dog will sacrifice itself to Death when Death demands a member of its' immediate family.

The most decorated U.S. dog during World War II was a German Shepherd/Husky/ Collie mix named Chips. He also served as a guard dog in North America and later earned a Silver Star for capturing a machine gun nest during the invasion of Sicily.

Dogs have been used to determine whether twins are identical or fraternal because identicals have the same scent, but fraternals do not, no matter how much they may look alike.

The Latin word for faithful is "Fido?" Could this possibly have any connection with the fact that so many dogs are named this?

If an old or sick dog does not shake itself after getting up that this is a sign of bad overall health? Each dog shakes itself to get every muscle and tendon back into perfect place after waking up.

A dog can survey an area between 200 to 270 degrees, depending on the shape of its skull and the positioning of its eyes, compared to the average of 100 degrees for a human being.

Due to the popularity of lap dogs in ancient Rome, Julius Caesar once mused if Roman women had ceased to have children in lieu of their new four-legged companions.

Article written and reprinted with permission of: http://www.pedigreedpups.com/ Purebred Dogs, Puppies and Dog Breeders - "Your New Best Friend"

Copyright 2005. All rights reserved.

Debbie Ray, owner of: http://www.pedigreedpups.com is a lifetime dog lover and owner and breeder of german shepherd dogs for over 15 years.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Corn Snake Care Pantherophis Guttatus Guttatus

Writen by Chris M Jones

Corn snakes have become the most extensively produced snake in captivity, and for good reason. They are docile, suit well to captive conditions, and reasonably sized among other things. They are certainly a good beginner snake, possibly the best. In the following few pages, I will take you through the various factors of keeping corn snakes.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the corn snake's life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult corn snake, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure for corn snakes. The reason for this, is that snakes are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it's safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. Some species will not even venture out for their prey; instead they will sit and wait for it to come along. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. Many individual snakes feel very comfortable in captivity, although this generally comes with age and lots of handling. Snakes like these will often thrive in a larger than usual enclosure.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 'SSSHHH' factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult corn snake is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Corn snakes require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-88ºF while the cool end should be approximately 74-76ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 74-78º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a corn snake enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Corn snakes are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a corn snake's enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12" up to 48" and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Corn Snakes are found in the South Eastern States of North America where the humidity can be fairly high. It is not important to be critical over the humidity with this species, but a general 40-60% humidity range should be offered. This is more important when the snake is approaching its slough, at which time a higher humidity will help it shed it's skin properly.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered pinky mice, and as they grow the mice should become larger. An adult corn snake should be fed on large size mice or small weaner rats. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 4-5 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. Adult corn snakes need feeding once every 2 weeks on 2 large mice. The only exception when they should be fed more is bringing them out of hibernation, getting them into condition for breeding and then, fattening up females for egg production. An egg-laying female should be fed more often than normal, once a week on 2 large mice.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Monday, January 19, 2009

Canine Diabetes Is Your Dog At Risk

Writen by Lori Anton

The classic early warning signs of diabetes were all present when I brought my canine companion of twelve years into the Veterinarian's clinic. Muffy was lethargic, unsteady on her feet, drinking large amounts of water, and experiencing incontinence for the first time in her life. I knew something was seriously wrong.

After blood work and a physical examination, the veterinarian said that Muffy had developed type-two canine diabetes. After a brief discussion, we decided to try and regulate her blood sugar level with diet modification and insulin twice daily.

At first, it was rough going. Weekly checkups revealed Muffy's sugar levels continued to bounce from one extreme to the other. Determined not give up, I monitored her urine samples at home for sugar content and adjusted insulin injections as necessary. Gradually, we began to see improvement.

After just a few months Muffy was once again her frisky self. You would never know by watching her race about that she had a serious health problem. A special diet, proper amounts of insulin and regular exercise have worked together with Muffy's routine veterinary care to turn the tide. As a result, I can look forward to many more happy years with my little dog.

Wyoming veterinarian Mary Flitner, who recently moved her practice to New Mexico, received her D.V.M. degree at Colorado State University and an award for excellence in large animal surgery in 1997. Flitner states that diabetes in dogs and cats is more common than most people realize. According to Flitner, a pet's chance of developing diabetes will increase with age.

"This is especially true in overweight, less active dogs."

Besides weight and age, diet is another significant factor. Dogs given table scraps without discrimination are particularly at risk. The importance of diet cannot be over emphasized, warns Flitner.

"A high fiber diet, low in fat and sugar, is vital. And an annual checkup by a qualified professional is also an important part of proper pet care, as early detection of health complications increase successful management of the problem and helps prolong the quality of life for that pet."

Flitner notes many pet owners mistakenly feel caring for a diabetic pet would be too difficult for them, an assumption that complicates the decision making process at a critical time.

"A diagnosis of diabetes in a family pet is hard enough to handle without misconceptions compounding the problem," said Flitner thoughtfully.

For instance, a pet owner might opt to euthanize a pet diagnosed with diabetes because they feel incapable of managing the problem. However, with proper instruction and guidance, that same pet owner could gain the confidence necessary to properly follow the care plan developed by the veterinarian, and enjoy many more quality years together with their pet.

"People need to know by regulating their pet's diabetes, that pet can still live to their full potential," said Flitner, acknowledging most care givers consider their pet an important part the family and struggle to make right health care decisions for them.

Flitner notes grocery store quality pet foods are not good choices for diabetic pets because of added fillers and sugars used to improve the taste.

"Some grocery store brands of cat food actually have trace elements of antifreeze in them, because cats are attracted to it. These type foods often have a high content of sodium, which is also unhealthy for the pet.

"A healthy well-balanced diet is important for any pet, but especially for those diagnosed with diabetes."

Early warning signs that might indicate diabetes in your pet include: an unusually high consumption of water, increase in appetite, incontinence, lethargy, extreme changes in eyes (i.e. cataracts), lack of coordination, and vomiting. Care givers who note such changes in their dog should promptly call a qualified professional, because examination by a veterinarian is important and necessary for proper diagnosis.

Flitner also acknowledges the temptation to remove the water bowl from the pet's reach if incontinence is a problem.

"But, this is not the correct thing to do," instructs Flitner.

In the case of diabetic canines, drinking large amounts of water is the dog's attempt to flush glucose out of the kidneys which has spilled over from the blood. If the glucose doesn't get flushed out, serious damage to the kidneys and other organs can develop.

The best preventative measures against serious health problems in the family pet remain simple and practical: regular veterinary check ups, and a healthy diet. Exercise is also very important. Among other benefits, exercise helps increase the body's effective use of insulin.

For more canine health information, information on a special dog food formulated specifically for diabetic dogs, or other dog products, visit the Savvy Dog Lover web site .

© Lori S. Anton Savvy Pet Editor

Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor for Writers Write Now, a web site that offers original professionally written content, and SEO content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.

Lori is also Savvy Pet Editor. Savvy Dog Lover web site offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet products. Visit Savvy Dog Lover. Savvy Dog Lover – where the best bones are buried!

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Why Train Your Dog

Writen by Chris Geldof

Obedience training is an important aspect of raising your dog. A well trained dog is a happier dog, because a well trained dog has fewer restrictions imposed on it. The more reliable the dog is, the more freedom it can be given. For example, a well trained dog need not be banished to the other room when company comes over to your house. A well trained dog also attracts more attention and praise from others.

Training your dog helps to strengthen the bond between owner and dog. Communications, understanding, trust and respect are all established throughout the training process. Throughout the process of training, your dog will come to learn that you are the leader.

Training your dog properly could also come in handy if certain situations arise, such as your dog getting itself into a dangerous situation. Your voice commands may, at some point, be the only thing standing between your dog and imminent danger. A well trained dog will heed its owners calls and potential tragedies can be averted. Obedience training will help your dog become more responsive to your voice.

Without proper obedience training, many dogs are likely to misbehave. When dogs misbehave, their owners, families, or even strangers could suffer. You don't want your children, or random strangers near your dog if it misbehaves and you don't really have much control over it.

A well behaved dog is a pleasure to own, because you don't have to worry as much about it misbehaving, or getting itself into trouble. A well trained dog is less likely to be a nuisance to others, which is good for everyone.

A well trained dog can go virtually anywhere without being a risk to others, exhibits proper behavior in all situations, is reliable around children, and doesn't threaten other dogs or people.

The question really shouldn't be. "Why train you dog?", but rather, "Why wouldn't you want to train your dog?" Everyone benefits from a properly trained, properly behaved dog.

Chris Geldof is a dog lover and owns a dog-related website. Visit Easy Dog Training Tips for more information on dog obedience and dog training.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Dog Treats More Harm Than Good

Writen by Jason Montag

Many of us enjoy feeding treats to our dog as much as they love to get them. They just seem so darn happy to hear the box rattle or the jar open. In they come running at top speed as if they have no other reason for living. We feel special when this happens and many of us like it so much that we find ourselves feeding our dog so many dog treats the box runs out faster than the dog food bag. Is this a problem? Well it could turn into a major problem.

Dog treats are not only fun to give our dog but they can actually help the dog maintain a high level of health. The key is to buy the right dog treats. Some veterinarians have compared dog treats to candy bars. You would not sit and eat five or six candy bars a day so why allow your dog to eat the equivalent. There are a number of very healthy dog treats on the market these days some of the treats on the shelves can not only be fun but can benefit the health of their digestive system, teeth and bones. When looking for treats to give your dog go ahead and choose the healthiest ones. Think about this. Dogs can taste differences in things but the main reason that dogs love treats so much is because it is different than their usual food. I figured this out by just getting a few pieces of a different kind of dog food. I gave him nothing special or unusual but just different. My dog reacted the exact same way and loved it so much that he could not even tell the difference between that food and the chewy dog treats I normally fed him. I concluded that I can reward him with anything I want and that included the highly nutritious and still flavorful treats in the store.

For more information about dog treats or to chat with fellow dog lovers in our pet forum, visit http://www.spectacularpets.com.

Friday, January 16, 2009

The Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems And How To Solve Them Part 1

Writen by Lori Anton

A Word about Dogs, and One of the Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems; Excessive Barking

Dogs are wonderful; just ask any one of the millions of canine owners world-wide. They make terrific companions, are loving, loyal, protective, entertaining, and obedient. Well, most of the time anyway.

As with humans, no dog is perfect – including my treasured poodle, Muffy. She is wonderfully calm and composed, especially considering her breed type. And she has been my best friend for nearly 14 years. Nevertheless, she has her faults. We all do.

That aside, it is important for new dog owners to understand the differences between dogs and humans. Recognizing the differences will help owners balance expectations and keep them realistic.

Some behavior is ingrained; inborn and common to the canine population. Their ways are not our ways. We cannot punish a dog for being a dog. It would be unrealistic, for instance, to expect a dog not to be inquisitive; not to sniff, not to defend its territory, or not to explore and "cut loose" in an open field. People who cannot accept normal dog behavior should not own a dog.

Other behaviors in dogs are learned – due either to past experience, or neglect on the human's part. Case in point: a mother dog does not hesitate to teach her puppies acceptable social skills and proper manners. She will correct and discipline a pup when they need it.

We humans, however, take a puppy away from its disciplinarian – its mother – and adopt it into our home. When the puppy bites, nips at our hands, or chews on things that they should not, we hesitate to discipline him. Either because we think he is too small for discipline, or else too darn cute! It is only after the puppy gets older and a bad behavior pattern has set in that we decide something must be done.

When it comes to problematic canine behavior problems, three are most predominant: excessive barking, biting, and jumping up on people. In this 3-part canine behavior and modification training informational, we will address each behavior problem individually.

Excessive Barking

Dogs can bark excessively for different reasons: boredom, loneliness, and defying being left alone are among the top reasons.

You have some control over your dog's boredom and loneliness. Besides providing warm shelter, adequate food, and an adequate supply of clean water, both dogs and puppies require entertainment and exercise to be happy and relieve boredom.

Playthings and chew toys made for dogs help to keep a dog entertained. Spending time with your dog playing and exercising him is also important. A happy, content dog is less apt to bark excessively.

When it comes to having to be left alone, however, your dog must learn to accept being alone without causing a ruckus. There is little more annoying to neighbors than being forced to listen to someone else's dog bark nonstop.

If your dog barks for no good reason, well-known dog obedience instructor and author, Jerry Climer, suggests that you walk up to him and close your hand around his muzzle; forcefully, but not enough to cause pain. Hold his mouth closed and command "Quiet!" If he tries to break away, be more firm and forceful. Hold his mouth shut and snap your finger sharply across his nose, commanding again "Quiet!" Once he has stopped the noise and is silent, praise him.

When training a young puppy not to bark, place a short rope on his collar and let him drag it around the house. When he barks to alert you, let him bark once or twice, and tell him he's a good dog. Then use the command "Quiet!" in a firm tone, while at the same time giving his rope a little jerk to startle him. Insist that he stop the noise immediately, and praise him the minute he becomes quiet.

Whether training a grown dog or a young puppy, discipline must be consistent in order to be effective. After the lesson has been learned, commanding "Quiet!" will be enough to bring peaceful silence, and stop excessive barking.

We at Savvy Dog Lover care about you and your pet. In part 2 of this 3-part instructional we will discuss the problem of biting. Read part two, "How to Control the Canine Behavior Problem of Biting," at www.savvy-dog-lovers.com.

©2006 Lori S. Anton
Savvy Dog Lover editor

Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor of Writers Write Now, offering original professionally written SEO content, quick content, and free content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.

Lori S. Anton is also an editor for the Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit Savvy Dog Lover – where the best bones are buried!

Thursday, January 15, 2009

American Pit Bull Dog Obedience Training

Writen by Tim Amherst

The Pit Bull terrier is an amazing dog and is extremely energetic and can certainly prove to be a handful if not properly trained. American Pit Bulls are extremely loyal and when a relationship is formed, it lasts forever. If you're a new Pit Bull owner, you really need to understand how demanding these dogs can be and realize that they need a lot of attention and training in order to recognize their full potential as pets. Pits are very intelligent dogs and this will work to your advantage as you're going through the training process.

Because of their high intelligence, Pit Bulls can have stubborn streak in them but don't let this scare you when it comes to obedience training time. You as the owner must remember that there will be times when you ask him to do something and he's not going to obey, even though he knows what you are expecting him to do. Remember to remain patient in these times and don't get frustrated. The earlier you being training your Pit, the better. At 8 weeks of age, you can begin basic training and socializing your Pit Bull puppy. Remember, make sure to keep the training activities fun and use positive reinforcements to encourage desired behavior.

Socialization is one of the key areas of focus for Pit Bull training. Pits can be extremely friendly and affectionate animals but they can be dog aggressive if not properly socialized. The best way to socialize your pup is to enroll in training classes. Training classes allow your Pit to be trained side by side with other dogs.

When your Pit Bull puppy reaches the age of 13-16 weeks, you can begin a more serious training routine. During this age, your Pit will likely test his boundries with you and explore the area of dominance. He may nip and try to assume the alpha dog role. It is important to be strong during this time and maintain the dominant role in the relationship.

Pit Bulls are genuinely lovable family dogs that if properly trained, make a great pet for anyone. They are excellent dogs that love being around their "people". Be sure to train your Pit Bull as early as possible and remember to stay consistent.

To learn all about American Pitbull Terriers and training a Pitbull, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Sugar Gliders How To Select A Sugar Glider Breeder

Writen by Miles Fowler

It is important to choose a sugar glider breeder carefully. A breeder should be able to tell you a lot about the particular glider(s) you're interested in (lineage and genetics, any health issues, etc.). Most breeders will also be able to answer any questions you have after you bring your sugar glider home, which is very important if you are new to sugar gliders! Sugar gliders are wonderful pets, but they have specific needs that are different from other pets.

Before you buy a sugar glider from a breeder you find on the internet, read their website and ask others about their experiences with this breeder. (Ask questions in sugar glider forums such as those on the glidercentral.net website.) The majority of breeders you will find on the internet are wonderful people, concerned with raising quality, healthy sugar gliders. But there are some sugar glider "breeders" on the internet who spread misinformation about what is required to keep a healthy, happy sugar glider. Their general attitude indicates that sugar gliders are simply a commodity.

If you see a breeder offering sugar gliders extremely cheaply (less than $100), it is a probable sign of a sugar glider "mill". Additionally, be skeptical of a breeder who imports and/or breeds everything from anteaters to penguins to tigers. Those breeders do not specialize in sugar gliders and probably do not fully understand the species and its needs. They are more likely to sell you a sick or inappropriate sugar glider. Choose a well-run breeding facility whose first concern is raising quality, healthy sugar gliders.

If at all possible, avoid buying your sugar glider from a pet store, where impulse buys are encouraged. The same goes for trade shows and flea markets. Buying a sugar glider should be a carefully-considered action. Frankly, many of the sugar gliders at pet stores come from "sugar glider mills". And bear in mind that the minimum-wage help at most pet stores will be unable to answer your questions about caring for your new sugar glider.

Whenever possible, choose a local breeder. That way, you can visit the breeder's facility to interact with the sugar gliders before you buy. Also, by buying locally, you avoid having to have the sugar glider shipped. Transportation and shipping are stressful for any animal, and sugar gliders are no exception. That said, there are reputable breeders who are very skilled at shipping sugar gliders, so if you cannot locate a local breeder, contact an out-of-state breeder.

You can find a list of sugar glider breeders who are also members of the International Sugar Glider Association (ISGA) on the ISGA website. You may not want to necessarily restrict your search to breeders who are ISGA members, but that is a good place to start. Additionally, entering the search term "sugar glider breeder" into Google's or Yahoo's search box will yield the names and contact information for many breeders.

Regardless of which sugar glider breeder you decide to contact, there are a number of important questions to ask:

How long have you been breeding sugar gliders?

Do you have the proper license(s) to breed and sell sugar gliders?

Do you have references and/or testimonials from other people who have bought sugar gliders from you? (Be sure to go ahead and check those references!)

Will you be willing to take my phone calls and/or emails regarding questions I have, once the sugar glider is in my home?

Do you have a health guarantee? How long is it? Can I have that guarantee in writing?

Do you guarantee your sugar gliders' ability to breed (only important if you are planning to breed them, too)? Can I have that guarantee in writing?

Do you handle your joeys (baby sugar gliders) a lot once they are out-of-pouch? How much time do they spend interacting with humans?

Was this sugar glider permitted to leave the pouch naturally, or was he removed from his mother's pouch early? (It is always best to leave joeys in the pouch until they are ready to leave, unless Mom is sick or deceased.)

You should also expect that a breeder will have a lot of questions to ask you! If the breeder does not ask you questions, it could be a sign that he or she is only interested in making quick money, not in providing proper, loving homes for their sugar gliders. A breeder may ask you:

Why do you want to buy a sugar glider?

Have you considered all the pros and cons of a sugar glider? (They should be able to tell you the pros and cons.)

Are you willing to make the time commitment that a sugar glider requires?

Are you willing to love and take care of this pet for up to 15 years?

What kind of housing/cage are you going to provide?

Are you willing and financially able to provide veterinary care?

Are there small children in your household, and if so, how will be they be supervised around the sugar glider?

Are there other pets in your household? What preparations have you made to insure the sugar glider will be safe from these pets?

What kind of food are you going to provide for your sugar glider?

All in all, the search for the perfect sugar glider for you and your family should be deliberate and carefully-considered. Remember, sugar gliders can live for up to 15 years in captivity, so it is worth your while to buy a healthy glider from a breeder you can contact in the future.

Miles Fowler is the author of Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide, a comprehensive and authoritative book for both novice and experienced sugar glider owners. Learn more at: http://www.sugargliderauthority.com

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Can Your Pet Get Alzheimers

Writen by Shawn Messonnier

While pets don't actually develop Alzheimer's disease, both dogs and cats develop a condition called cognitive disorder. While the condition appears new, it is not and has been recognized by veterinarians for many years. There are a number of clinical signs in pets with cognitive disorder. These signs are often accepted by owners as normal signs of aging, when in fact they are signs of a (usually) treatable condition. Owners must be taught that any of these signs warrants a full evaluation. Education must begin before the first geriatric visit. Regular geriatric examination, ideally every 6-12 months, will facilitate communication and allow for early diagnosis of cognitive disorder and other conditions often seen in geriatric dogs.

Common signs in dogs and cats with cognitive disorder include wandering aimlessly, vocalizing for no reason, getting stuck in a corner, increased daytime sleeping, seeking less attention, loss of housetraining, and seeking less attention. Because these signs can mimic other conditions (cancer, hypothyroidism), these pets should receive a full workup prior to the diagnosis of cognitive disorder.

The drug AniprylR is approved for treating cognitive disorder in dogs. It must be given daily for the life of the dog once the diagnosis is made. Side effects are rare in dogs and included restlessness, disorientation, vomiting, anorexia, weakness, anemia, stiffness, and polydipsia. The major concern among owners is the cost: a one month supply for a 30 pound dog costs about $125.

There are other more natural alternatives, including herbal preparations (gingko, lycopodium, salvia,) thyroid supplement (when hypothyroidism is the cause), nutritional supplementation using whole food preparations of vitamins such as inositol and lecithin, and a specific product called Cholodin which combines choline and several other nutrients (choline, phosphatidylcholine, methionine, inositol, and various B vitamins and antioxidants.) Nutritional supplementation is used to increase acetylcholine levels in the body (acetylcholine is a widely distributed nerve transmitter in the body.) Aging people and pets begin to lose choline nerve receptors. Since oral choline administration increases plasma choline levels, and since brain levels of acetylcholine increase as plasma choline levels increase, using choline supplementation has the ability to improve neurological disorders that result from decreased acetylcholine.

Natural therapies have proven extremely effective in most pets in my practice, without the expense or side effects of drug therapy. Therapy is given for 2 months to assess efficacy (as is true with any nutritional therapy,) although results may occur more quickly. For more information on the protocol I recommend, please email me at naturalvet@juno.com and ask for the cognitive disorder protocol.

Shawn Messonnier, DVM

Author, 8 Weeks to a Healthy Dog, The Allergy Solution for Dogs, and the award-winning The Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats. Dr. Shawn is the medical consultant for Pet Togethers, a pet supplement company.

http://www.pettogethers.net/healthypet

http://www.petcarenaturally.com

Monday, January 12, 2009

Understanding Your Cat

Writen by Ric Wiley

My cat always talks to me, he always tells me things and not always by meowing. Sometimes he uses his body. Cats have body language just as humans have and I think theirs is much easier to understand.

First and foremost, verbal communication. I just wish I could understand Tigger fully, I wish I could talk to him. I can and do talk to him but its like talking to someone foreign. You don't really know what they're saying but you can usually understand what they mean. Its the same with my cat, I can understand him, but I don't understand the meows.

I know when he wants food, I know when he's content, I know when he's angry and I know when he's on edge or nervous as if something big is in the yard like a dog. He tells me, and I can understand.

I can also tell how he is by his body language. I know to look for the little things, the little signals he is giving me. It is about loving your cat so you understand him (or her).

I can tell when he is frightened, his ears are usually flat against his head and his eyes are wide open. I can tell his pupils are fully dilated which makes his eyes look almost black. His back is arched and his fur is puffed up. This is all to make him look bigger than he is to whatever is scaring him and is common with all domestic cats. His tail is usually swishing from side to side as well and the fur is puffed out on his tail.

It is a different story when he is relaxed and happy. His pupils will be normal sized and his eyes may be fully open or half closed if he is feeling sleepy. His ears are normal, pointing up and slightly forward and his tail will be curved down with the tip of his tail pointing slightly up. He is usually laid on me at this stage and his motor will be running at full blast, that's what I call his purring, running his motor. I have read that this can be a sign of pain and cats will purr when they are in a lot of pain. My cat has once purred like this when he was hurt badly. I once couldn't coax him off the garage roof and when I got up there to see if he was OK he was purring yet he had a large piece of his skin torn back off one of his hind legs. He sure was glad to see me but boy must he have been in a lot of pain.

Don't worry I sorted him out and took him to my local veterinarians. Cost me a fortune and I was told to take the dressing off in two days and take him back for the sutures out in a week. Within 3 hours of getting him home he had managed to get the dressing off and eat the sutures. He didn't like them and wasn't having them. Still he was fine in a couple of days.

Ric Wiley is an established writer and Internet author. His latest site about his relationship with his cat, Tigger, can be found at http://www.love-your-cat.com

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Are 2 Dogs Better Than 1

Writen by Ron King

How could 1 dog ever be enough for a dog lover? Before you decide to add another dog to the family, there are some important concerns about your current dog you should consider.

Matching Personalities

Your current canine companion loves you, but how will it feel about sharing you? If it is sweet, servile and submissive, a new dog could bully your first dog into a life of fear and despair. With a submissive dog, never accept a puppy that won't let you cradle it upside down in your arms. A puppy that will let you hold it as you would an infant is willing to be submissive.

If your dog is a bit of a bully with other dogs and the new dog shares the same trait, beware! There are major battles on the horizon, until they sort out who is the alpha dog. Sometimes, with equally dominant personalities, the battles never end. After a few skirmishes and trips to the vet, you'll be regretting the new addition to your family.

Your best chance for adding a new dog to the mix are with a balanced and confident current pet. Dogs that are neither overly dominant, nor submissive, are more likely to accept and survive the addition of another dog in the household.

Size Matters

Your next consideration is the size of your dog. If you have a little terrier, you should avoid a Great Dane pup. A large, energetic puppy can accidentally injure a small dog repeatedly before it's aware of its strength. On the other hand, if you currently own a full-grown Golden Retriever, which undoubtedly has a terrific temperament, you may be able to bring a small-breed puppy into the family.

You should watch the dogs closely in the early days when they're together. More than 1 German Shepard has become the devoted protector of an iddy-biddy lap dog.

Fussy Females

If your dog is an unaltered female, she may become very unhappy if another female dog enters her domain. She may need to be altered before she will accept a second female in the pack. She could still show some aggression even after being spayed. A male puppy might be a wiser choice. Besides, unless you're prepared to suddenly be the proud owner of a half-dozen more dogs, you'll have to alter at least 1 of them.

Old Folks

If your dog is older, you may want to reconsider buying a puppy. Older dogs often have aches and pains, and are more impatient than when they were younger. Instead, think about getting a mature dog. It will be an easier adjustment for your older dog.

Mix And Match

Toy lap-dog breeds tend to be spoiled by their owners and are jealous of other dogs. Getting a new puppy with child-like demands on your time is not going to bring out the best from the dog that has grown to expect your undivided attention. A pampered pooch can be a challenge. The more aggressive breeds, such as Rottweilers and Pit Bulls, are also likely to have problems. Some dogs simply don't adjust well to competition -- ever.

In the final analysis, all dogs are individuals with independent personalities. You should know best whether a new puppy will be welcomed.

Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit new-pup to learn more about this subject.

Copyright 2005 Ron King. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Miniature Dachshund Louies Journal

Writen by Gloria Law

I am a miniature Dachshund. I may be small but my attitude is huge. My mom is a wonderful person and I am totally in love with her. However, when she goes out of town, she leaves me with her mom, my grandma. Grandma has two dogs. Babe is a Doberman/Shepherd cross and Mercedez is a Dalmatian/Black Lab cross. Zack is a big Doberman that belongs to a friend of my mom's. I love Zack. He thinks I'm his parent. This journal is about the times I have been left at Grandma's. It is written to my mom. If you read my whole journal, there is a special treat for you at the end.

Day 1

I thought you might enjoy knowing my innermost thoughts so I decided to keep a journal. I saw you packing your big suitcase and knew you were going to go see Zack and I was so excited to go with you. Then you and your friend and your great big suitcases got out of the car and you said "Bye, Louie, Stay". My heart sank - I just can't live without you, Mom. I mean, Gramma's o.k. But she's not like you. She lets me cry. She pushes me away. She doesn't keep me warm. And sometimes she's mean. I was so sad - I cried all the way home and then I ran upstairs and jumped in our bed and went to sleep for the whole day. I miss you already but you will be home soon, I am sure.

Day 2

Well, today Gramma said I could come with her to the big city and just when we were going to leave, Babe smelled that great big dog walking up on the big road and she ran out the door. Gramma ran after her in her high heels and she was calling her and everything but Babe didn't listen - she wanted to play with the big dog and she ran all the way down the street to that really big house where all the cars are parked that I like to bark at. Mercedez and I laughed so hard we almost peed. Finally Gramma came home holding Babe by the neck and she looked mad and tired. We stopped laughing so we wouldn't hurt her feelings and besides, I wanted to go to the city.

After a few minutes in the car I had to go poo and Gramma wouldn't stop the car. I cried and cried and she just kept going. So, I let out a big smelly fart and that got her attention. She pulled over the car just in time. I really had to go.

It was cold out so Gramma put my sweater on me. I hate it. It makes me look like a girl. Every time Gramma got out of the car, I took my sweater off. It was fun. Then she would put it back on me and sometimes my feet got all tangled up. But she knew I was cold so she was trying to keep me warm.

It was a long day in the car but sometimes when Gramma stopped, she let me run around and smell things. Sometimes, her friends were there. They are so ANNOYING. They want to touch me and talk to me and I just want them to go away. I need to smell things and stuff.

One time, Gramma stopped at the store and the sun was shining bright so I climbed up in the back window and was getting all-warm and snuggly when she came back to the car. She didn't see me and she freaked. She looked under the blanket and on the floor and she was breathing heavy - it was so funny. Then she saw me and laughed. It is so nice up there in the sunshine.

We got home and had dinner and now I am going to go sleep with Babe and Mercedez. They wanted to hear all about my day. So, I guess I will have to tell them what they missed.

Day 3

It was a quiet day at home. I slept most of the day. Sometimes I slept on Gramma's lap but mostly in our bed - I can still smell you there. Gramma took me and the big girls for a long walk and we all pooed. I stepped in it - Gramma had to clean my feet. If I'm not careful, she might want to give me a bath. Ugh!!

Day 4

Today I stayed in bed all day. When Gramma came home I didn't even go out to go pee. I just wanted to sleep. It is so cold out and wet - I hate it. I can't wait until I can lay in the sun again. I snuggled with my big sister, Mercedez. She is so nice to me. I think she likes me a lot. No matter what she is doing, she lets me snuggle her. She is big and warm. She told me that she is jealous when I always get to go in the car. She used to go in the car all the time when she was little. Now, nobody takes her and she wishes so much that she could. But, that's o.k. with me - I am just glad I get to go places - of course, I didn't tell her that. It would have hurt her feelings.

Day 5

Today Gramma took us for two walks. Guess what Mom? I HAVEN'T HAD ONE ACCIDENT IN THE HOUSE since you left. I am going for a new record! Aren't you proud of me?

Grandpa got home tonight - well, that is almost as good as you coming home. I love him so much and he always holds me close and likes to sleep with me. I curl up on his big belly and it is so warm and soft - almost as nice as curling up with Mercedez. I ran upstairs and got my bone rattle toy that was under your bed and I brought it to him. I know how much he likes to play with me. We played and played - it was so much fun. Then I cuddled up on his belly and went to sleep. I dreamed of you.

Day 6

Today Gramma took us for a long run - the girls haven't run in over a week cuz Grandma's truck wasn't working. It was so much fun - we ran and ran and I got all hot and tired. I don't understand why Gramma doesn't run with us - she just sits in the truck.

Day 7

Today Gramma was gone all day from when it was dark this morning. I stayed with Grandpa and he held me a lot. Then tonight when Grandpa and Gramma were watching a movie, I went downstairs and had a pee. I don't know why I did it - I knew Gramma would be mad - and SHE WAS. I felt bad but I'm so cute you gotta love me.

Gramma took us for another big run when she got home tonight. I love running with the girls - makes me feel so big. Hope you are having a lot of fun Mom because I really, really miss you.

Day 8

Guess what happened this morning. It was early and dark outside and gramma took us out for a pee in her nightgown and Mercedez got OUT of her leash and ran to bark at the neighbor and also the lady walking her dog up there. Well, I barked really loud just like a big dog. Gramma had to chase us in her nightie and it was so funny.

Well, it is time for you to come home now. Tonight I went upstairs to OUR room and got into my travel bag - I want to go where you are. I pushed the bag down the stairs to show Gramma I want to go see you now. I miss you so much.

Day 9

Well, it was an eventful day. Gramma took us for a run and Mercedez chased something down the big mountain. She couldn't get back up. Gramma didn't know what to do - her and Babe and me stood on the edge and called her - she crawled up the big hill and fell. She was so tired - stupid dog - always chasing stuff - I never do that!!

Then Gramma and Grandpa went out in the evening and I pooped in the house. When Grandpa got home he didn't see it and stepped in it. I hid under the bed and they couldn't find me. I knew I was in trouble. Grandpa was really mad - Gramma was glad she didn't have to clean it up. I'm sorry but I couldn't help it.

Every morning, the first thing I do when I get up is stand by the refrigerator and cry. For several days Gramma would give me a pill and some cheese - it was great - but she doesn't do that any more no matter how good I am or how long I cry by the refrigerator - I wonder why.

Day 10

Oh my goodness - what a big day this was. I am such a happy boy. First Gramma took us up the mountain and this time I didn't get to run up the mountain but she let me run all the way down -- that means that I could run real fast and keep up with the big girls. They were tired, so that helped. It was so, so, so much fun. And guess what, Mom? Guess what - guess what - guess what??? Mercedez and me found a skull - it was buried under a big rock - Babe didn't find it but I did - it was ugly - Gramma said YUK.

Gramma gave me a bath - I didn't like that and I cried the whole time but she wrapped me in a blankie and Grandpa held me - that was cool. Grandpa kept saying all day "Zack is coming, Zack is coming". I could hardly stand the excitement. Could it be true?

THEN, around dinnertime - guess what? Zack and daddy came. I just about peed myself. It was so exciting. I am so happy. Daddy took me to McDonalds and I had 4 McNuggets - my absolute FAVE!! It was such a good day. Zack didn't play with me but I know he needs me to take care of him and I got to sleep with him. Life just couldn't be any better unless you were here Mom. Are you ever coming back? Why didn't you come with Zack and Daddy? I don't understand.

Day 11

Today I got up real early and me and Zack and daddy went to the city. I got some more chicken McNuggets for breakfast. I was a good boy. It was nice to get away from Grammas and feel like I was traveling again with you, Mom. Are you ever coming home? Have you left me forever?

Zack and me came back to Grandma's tonight and we played and ate and I told the big dogs about my day. They were jealous. They NEVER go anywhere - Losers!!

Day 12

This morning Gramma tried to sneak out with the dogs to go for a run cuz I was sleeping in our bed upstairs BUT I have really good ears and I heard them and started crying so she had to take me. Good thing she did - I always tell the girls where to run and what to sniff. I'm so close to the ground I always find the fun things to sniff. I almost rolled in something really neat but Gramma yelled at me and I had to stop. Darn!!

I didn't sleep very well tonight - I was up a lot - I thought I heard you or Zack coming home.

Day 13

All right, I think you have been gone long enough. It is now time to come get me. I'm ready to roll. I have gained some weight and doing much better than when you saw me last. Is that why you left me? Was I too skinny? Too sick? I'm all better now and I want to see you. I love you and I miss you so much.

Guess what Mom? Daddy picked me up tonight - I was so excited. He said we were going to get you. What does that mean? Where are you? You aren't with Zack. I can't find you. Where are you? Are you o.k.?

Day 14

We went on a big trip today - Zack had to stay home. We came to a tollbooth and they asked daddy some questions but they wouldn't give me a treat. I am so cute and sweet - why didn't they give me a treat?

I just hope I see you soon - I don't know how much longer I can stand being away from you. I love you, Mom

Gramma said that it is time I earn my keep. She asked me to show you what she does all day. Go to this link and if you want to buy something from her, tell her I sent you and she will give you a really good deal www.gemsofcoloronline.com

Also, please read my second journal – it's hilarious.

Gloria is an author of inspirational and humorour stories. She also manages two businesses, one in the field of health and the other in gemstones.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Are You Sure That You Need A Budgie

Writen by Geomil Georgiev

Before buying a budgie think about the following questions:

One or two budgies?

Budgies in natural conditions live in flights and it will be boring for one budgie to live in a cage. His friend, who can replace the company of other bird, could be a person but only in case that he spends lots of time with his feathery friend, speaks to it and lets it fly. If the bird is alone most of the time it becomes sad and very often gets sick. If you are unable to spare enough time for the budgie or if the family is absent for a long time, it is better to start breeding a couple of birds.

Many people think that when living in a couple budgies do not become domestic because they do not need human presence anymore. But if your patient enough and if you have enough time you may breed budgies separately while they grow up until they become domestic and start perching on your arm and only then to bring them together into one cage.

Will anybody help you?

It can happen that on some days you can be very busy and to be unable to care about the birds It is very important someone of the family to take care of them. And will it be possible for the bird to move around your home?

Home budgies do not need to look for food alone and to fly kilometers away but they also have to "exercise" their wings. These feathery ones will not be vital and healthy if they do not fly daily around the room at least for an hour. But is very difficult to keep the cage in one room with a cat–it instinctively chases birds and the is no trouble in catching the flying budgie. But an obedient dog very soon realizes that the bird is a member of the family and that it must not be disturbed.

Geomil Georgiev is owner and editor of http://www.birdscomfort.com where you can find information on every type of pet birds. BirdsComfort provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as cage covers, bird cage playstands, bird perches, bird toys, bird swings and bird foods.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Lungfish The Fish Time Forgot

Writen by William Berg

Lungfish are ancient fish that can be found in Australia, South America and Africa. The group lungfish contains only a few species and no more than a total of six species are known. This six species can be divided into two different families. One family, Lepidosirenidae, contain five species found in South America and Africa. The other family is called Ceratodidae ad contains only one species, the Australian lungfish.

All lungfish share the one common organ that has given them their name. They have developed lungs which allows for them to survive in water with very low oxygen levels where other fish can't survive. The lungs also allow them to survive out of the water. The lungs found in lungfish are very similar to the lungs found in primitive reptiles.

Lungfish has been present since the Lower Devonian area which means that they have been around for more than 100 million years. The number of species used to be much more numerous in the past but all but six species are now extinct.

Lungfish are easily recognized on how they look. They have primitive looking snakelike bodies. All lungfish species can grow very big and the African lungfish can grow to be more than 2m / 6 feet long.

They are highly predatory species that eats or try to eat everything that fits into their large mouths. (Including aquarium decoration and heaters) Their natural diet consists of fish,crabs, crayfish and anything else they might find.

The Lepidosirenidae family of lungfish can survive in very little water and the African lungfish can survive without water for up to two years. South American lungfish survives low water levels by digging a hole in the bottom mud where they build a nest. They then wait in the nest until the water returns. The African Lungfish is an even better survivor. They don't settle for building a nest but also cover their bodies with a secretion. This secretion forms a leather like cocoon that helps keep the lungfish moist until the water returns. They hibernate during the time they wait for the water to return and can as earlier mentioned survive in tried out desert like areas for up to two years or perhaps longer.

The Australian lungfish doesn't hibernate like some other lungfishes. This makes them dependent on water but can be found and survive in very small water bodies.

All Lepidosirenidae lungfish species builds some type of nest in which they deposit their eggs. The male guards the eggs until they hatch. The Australian lungfish doesn't build any nest. They just deposit the eggs on the bottom within their habitats.

This was just a short introduction to lungfish. Read more about Lungfish. Another fascinating group of fishes you can read more about is Snakehead