Choosing A Bed For Your Dog

Writen by Charles Kassotis

Does your dog enjoy sleeping with you at night? Although cuddling with a pet can keep owner and dog warm and snuggly, keep in mind that most animals are not as clean as people, nor do they always follow the same sleep patterns. A dog can track mud, grass, and even nature's business between your sheets, not to mention fleas and ticks. He might want to go for a walk at 3 a.m. when all you want to do is sleep. These are some of the common reasons why pets deserve a bed of their own. The nesting routine is as old as time, so providing your dog with his own place to sleep can create a sense of security that will help to keep your pet calm and well adjusted, not to mention help you get a good night's sleep.

But how do you know which type of bed will best suit your canine's needs? Consider the following criteria before shopping for your dog's bedroom furniture.

1. Get the right size bed for your animal. How big will he get? If you have a large breed, get a bed with enough size to accommodate his full-grown stature. Ask the vet how tall and heavy your pet is expected to get, especially if he is a mixed breed. Then you can estimate the size of bed that will be needed. One that is too small will make your dog feel cramped, and he'll probably find another sleeping spot. On the other hand, an overly large bed could let your little Chihuahua feel insecure and unprotected, likewise leading to his hunt for a new location.

2. Train a new puppy where to sleep. Like children, pets need guidance about where to go or what to do. Keep your pet's bed in the same place to establish a routine. This might be in the laundry room, family room, the deck, or a doghouse. Don't let a puppy drag its bed all over the place or he will never learn where he's supposed to stay at night. Get in the habit of putting your dog to bed at the same time each night, and he will soon get used to it.

3. Choose durable materials. A foam mattress can provide solid support for the larger frames of full-grown pets, whereas small piece-type filling will lend more flexibility to a bed, and is better suited to small dogs or puppies. Check to be sure the cover is removable and washable, and launder it every week or two, using hot water and mild detergent to kill fleas and ticks. Teach your puppy not to chew his bedding, which will quickly destroy it and force you to buy another. A smart rap on the nose with a newspaper or a squirt of water from a spray bottle when he is caught in the act ought to do it.

4. Keep the bed out of the way to prevent accidents. Let all family members know where the bed will be kept, and tuck it into a nook or cranny where no one is likely to trip over it when carrying laundry or hurrying past that area. Your dog will be able to sleep better in a quiet, semi-protected environment.

Although buying your dog a bed should not be as time-consuming or costly as buying human furniture, it nevertheless pays to plan ahead and take time in making the best possible choice for all concerned.

For more information on Dog Beds and how Dog Beds can help both you and your precious pooch sleep better, visit Absolutely Dogs at http://www.absolutely-dogs.com

Helping People With Pet Allergies

Writen by Shawn Messonnier

Many pet owners find themselves or other family members allergic to their pets. This is most true with cats:a great number of people just can't handle being around cats without sneezing, wheezing, or itching. Even though some will advise you to get rid of your pet, this is not usually necessary. In fact, a well known tranquilizer may help combat your pet allergies. The tranquilizer, acepromazine, is used by many veterinarians in their practices. It serves as a mild sedative and works best as an adjunct to anesthesia and to keep pets quiet postoperatively. Unfortunately it is also (incorrectly) used to treat various phobias such as storm phobias. It does NOT relieve anxiety in the pet by actually increases anxiety by making the pet immobile; better treatments exist for various phobias in pets.

Several years ago someone came up with the idea of trying it in a homeopathic form to treat people who have allergies to their pets. The acepromazine is prepared in such a way as to make it extremely dilute. This diluted form is placed on a pet's food one or more times daily. If it works, the allergic person stops having symptoms when in the pet's presence. Does it really work? I can say a definite YES after having used it for many years. Does it always work? Unfortunately not. In my experience I would say that most (80%) cases in which I've prescribed it have been successfully resolved. In many of these cases the pet, usually a cat, was going to be given away because the owner's allergies were so bad. When it works, it literally can save a pet's life. No one really knows why it works. However, since most allergies to pets occur from allergens in the pet's saliva (and to some extent the pet's skin cells and hair cells,) the homeopathic preparation must remove, reduce, or bind the allergens that cause the discomfort in the allergic owners.

For people who experience pet allergies, I would certainly suggest trying it on their pet's food. I have never seen side effects (and would not really ever expect any due to the dilute homeopathic nature of the product,) and there is no aversive taste to the product.

Dr. Shawn Messonnier is the author of 8 Weeks to a Healthy Dog, The Allergy Solution for Dogs, and the award-winning The Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats. Dr. Shawn is the medical consultant for Pet Togethers, a pet supplement company.

http://www.pettogethers.net/healthypet

http://www.petcarenaturally.com

Finding Your New Dog

Writen by Pat Doyle

You have researched dog breeds and know what kind of dog you want. Now, how do you go about finding your dog?

Please do not buy your dog in a pet store. This is asking for trouble, both with health problems and psychological problems. Pet stores are notorious for getting their puppies from puppy mills, which just churn out puppies with no regard to their health or psychological well-being.

I would suggest these as the best three ways to find a dog:

1) Get your dog from a reputable breeder. If you want a purebred dog, this is a good option. A good breeder is concerned about the dogs they breed, and will make sure the dog is a good match for you. They will do their best to make sure the puppy is healthy and well-adjusted. They will give you advice on how to raise and take care of your dog.

How do you find a good breeder? One way is to check around in your community for recommendations. Ask vets or other dog professionals for their recommendations. You can also check a dog breeder directory on the internet. You can usually select the breed you are looking for and your geographic location, and you will get a list of breeders in your area. Just type "dog breeder directory" into your search engine to find one.

2) Get your dog from a dog rescue organization. These groups find homes for unwanted or abandoned dogs of a particular breed. There is usually an organization for each breed. The American Kennel Club has a list of dog rescue groups on its website.

3) Adopt your dog from a shelter. This is a good option if you don't care about having a purebred dog. Shelters have a wide variety of dogs available. I got my dog at a Humane Society shelter. They do a good job of talking with you to find out what kind of dog would be best suited to your needs.

It is very rewarding to adopt a dog from a shelter and give it a good home. Also, I like adopting a shelter dog because you can adopt a dog who is already past the housebreaking stage, if you want to. If you don't find the dog you want there right away, they can keep an eye out for you, or you can keep returning until you "fall in love" with one of the dogs.

Pat Doyle is the creator of the popular website Doggiewoggie - All About Dogs.

This article may be republished as long as you keep the full text, author's name, and website link with the article.

10 Most Important Tips To Training Your Puppies

Writen by Paul W Wilson

All of us dream of parenting the perfect dog, a pup that is a CGC or canine good citizen and is well behaved and dependable at all times. Well dreams do come true if the training is done with care and dedication. Remember pups learn from day one and need to be taught what is right, what is wrong, and proper socialization.

Pups are like children, they need constant supervision and training. Training a pup need not be an ordeal all you need to keep in mind are a few simple rules:

• Until your pup learns you need to keep an eye on him at all times. When you cannot then you must crate him. Create a schedule for the pup this will help the pup settle down quickly. The schedule must include things like hourly bath rooming visits, eating times, rest periods, walks, play time, training, and so on. A pup that has a busy day has no time to be bored and get into mischief.

• Teach the pup to respect you. Dogs live in packs and instinctively follow a leader. If you establish your leadership in no uncertain terms then training will become easy as the pup will obey you at all times and not challenge your authority.

• Use only positive training methods. Never shout at, hit, or punish a dog. It is not just cruel but can lead to behavioral problems. Use of electric shocks, prong collars, sprays, and so on could hurt the animal.

• Teach the pup "nothing in life is free." This is a system that is widely acknowledged as a useful training tool. If you practice this, the pup will learn that to get something like love, a walk, or treat, he must behave well.

• Teach the meaning of "No," from day one. Do not encourage behaviors like jumping, mouthing, tug-o-war, barking, or running out of open gates and doors. Praise good behavior and ignore or walk away when there is bad behavior. The pup will learn that if he misbehaves he will loose his companion/playmate.

• To correct a behavior you must catch the pup in the act and startle him by rattling a can of pebbles. Once you have done this make him correct his behavior and immediately offer him a treat and praise. Pups do not recall what happened earlier so scolding him after an event is of no use.

• Always call/use his name positively. Never say "Bad TOM," or "No Tom," this will cause confusion and the pup will think that if you call his name then it is something bad. The pup must associate his name with happy events like hugs, petting, walks, treats, and such. If this happens he will come willingly when you call out his name.

• Create a training schedule that is short and sweet say 10 minutes thrice a day. Long repetitive lessons can be boring and the pup will loose interest in learning. Make learning fun and use trick training to teach commands like sit, down, come and so on.

• Bond with the pup and both of you will enjoy your lessons. The pup must look forward to spending time with you and not avoid you by running away or hiding. Be sure to socialize the pup early. Socialization is one of the most important lessons. The pup must learn to be around other animals, people, sounds, vehicles, and other activities. So, slowly introduce the pup when he is little to everyday activities and sounds. Take him to the mall/ park, introduce him to children and other pets, and make him unafraid of the vacuum and garden hose.

• Learn all about crate training, leash walking, house breaking, as well as food training. These are kindergarten lessons that every pup must master. Know about all the idiosyncrasies as well as peculiarities of the breed this will give you valuable insights on how to successfully train the pup.

As a pet-parent you have many choices. You could choose to train the dog yourself or register at a professional training school. Training a dog has many stages: kindergarten, obedience training, doggy sports, showing and conformation, as well as other aspects like therapy dogs, hearing dogs, and so on. What level you choose to train depends on you as well as the learning abilities of your dog. As you know, different dogs like humans have varied talents. Choose well and both you and your pup will have fun times together.

Paul Wilson is a freelance writer for http://www.1888Discuss.com/pet/ , the premier REVENUE SHARING discussion forum for Pet Forum including topics on pet health, pet care and nutrition, grooming pet at home, dog, cat's health issues and more. He also freelances for the premier Data Recovery site http://www.1888DataRecovery.com

Dog Kennel Plans

Writen by Jason Gluckman

While for most people, owning dogs is fun, it also poses many adjustments and careful arrangements. The challenge is even greater for those living in cities and urban areas. Dogs must be kept out of neighbors' lawns and off the streets. The solution is a well-though-out kennel unit.

Planning the Kennel

When building or buying a kennel, keep in mind several important considerations that will ensure your dogs' comfort and promote sanitation through ease of cleaning. You must have a plan that clearly outlines factors such as size of the kennel; where you will place it: does the location allow outside runs and exercises; ventilation and drainage systems; strength and kind of building materials; among others.

Size is an important consideration especially when you are keeping big dogs. The cage must be tall enough to provide considerable ceiling clearance as well as wide enough to allow the dogs to the sit or lay comfortably.

Location is the next thing important thing to consider. It will dictate the success of your project. If your main reason for building a kennel is to prevent your dogs form bothering your neighbors with their barking and smell, you must choose a location farthest from them. Tip: normally, you would not keep more than one dog in a cage to prevent aggressive or playful fights that will cause injuries to the dogs as well as noise. The kennel must also be able to open to a yard where you can release your dogs for exercise.

Your kennel must also allow convenience in carrying out sanitation procedures. It must have proper drainage for waste water and animal wastes. Ventilation is very important especially in hot seasons. There must be sufficient airflow to cool the dogs. But in colder seasons, you must shelter your pets form the harsh winds.

When planning a kennel, always put both your pets' comfort and your convenience foremost. Build the kennel with considerations you would keep in mind when building your own house.

Dog Kennels provides detailed information on Dog Kennels, Dog Kennel Plans, How To Build A Dog Kennel, Portable Dog Kennels and more. Dog Kennels is affiliated with Dog Agility Training.

Cats People And The Black Plague Those Who Kept Cats Survived

Writen by Lisa J. Lehr

In the long history of human-animals relationships, a few episodes stand out in which one species has made a significant contribution to the survival of another. Rarely do cats get credit for such an accomplishment--more often dogs or horses, and then, usually in times of war--but the Black Plague of Europe is one of those times.

By way of background, the ancient Romans, in their conquest of Egypt, had brought cats home to Europe. Cats subsequently suffered a period of disfavor during the superstitious Middle Ages, for they had become associated with witches and the Devil; some people believed black cats were witches in disguise, or that they assisted witches in performing their craft. Those who kept cats as pets were the objects of much suspicion, and widespread cat hunting led almost to their extinction.

When rats from Asia brought the bubonic plague to Europe via trading ships in the mid-1300s, the epidemic (variously known as the Black Plague, the Great Plague, the Black Death, and the Great Mortality) swept across the continent, resulting in devastating loss of human life. In all, one-third of the population of Europe--some 34 million people--died. In England alone, more than half the human population perished; in some parts of France, ninety percent.

It took the authorities some time to figure out the cause of the problem. At one point they tested the theory that the disease was being spread by dogs and cats; thus the mayor of London ordered the execution of all such pets. Despite the extermination of millions of companion animals, however, the plague did not abate but actually accelerated, for, of course, the elimination of all cats was soon followed by an explosion of the rat population.

Eventually it became evident that people who had kept cats, in violation of the law, fared better; for the cats, according to their nature, killed the rats that carried the fleas that really carried the plague. People slowly began to deduce the rat-flea-disease connection. When the truth finally came to light, cats were quickly elevated to hero status, and soon became protected by law.

The Great Plague ended when the fleas started dying, as a part of their natural life cycle, in the cold of fall and winter. Subsequent plagues would visit Europe over successive generations, and other continents suffered similar outbreaks; it would not be until the 19th century that scientists really began to understand the epidemiology of the plague. Increased sanitary conditions over time helped reduce its incidence, and with the discovery of antibiotics in the 20th century, the threat of the plague was greatly reduced.

Would it be a stretch to say that, by bringing the rodent population under control, cats saved humans from extinction? At least, European humans? At a minimum, cats deserve credit for heroically saving the species that, through ignorance, almost wiped them out.

(C)Lisa J. Lehr 2006

Lisa J. Lehr is a freelance writer and Internet marketer specializing in direct response and marketing collateral. She holds a biology degree and has worked in a variety of fields, including the pharmaceutical industry and teaching, and has a particular interest in health, pets, and conservative issues.
Please visit her blog at http://warmfuzziesanimalrescue.blogspot.com
If you're looking for a copywriter, her website is http://www.justrightcopy.com Just Right Copy-because words sell.

Protecting Your Poodle During Cold Weather

Writen by Sandy Riordan

Where I live in Georgia, the temperature very seldom gets below freezing, so protecting my Poodles against cold weather isn't much of an issue, although it does get chilly! If you live in the north, or somewhere else with the weather gets cold, it can pose a danger to your Poodles, so you'll need to take extra precautions to keep him or her warm, safe and comfortable.

If your Poodle is outside during the day like mine is while I'm at work, then you'll need to provide some kind of shelter from the weather. The kennel for my two Poodles has a roof over it to provide shade and to keep it dry. It also has shade cloth all around it which also provides shade, as well as protecting it from the wind. If the area where you live gets below freezing during the winter, then you should provide some kind of shelter with heat to protect it from the cold weather, preferably an insulated doghouse that is elevated off the ground. It should be water-proof and ideally have a door to help prevent drafts. It should just be big enough for the dog to stand and turn around. Make sure the bedding is clean and dry at all times.

If you're home most of the time, it's best to keep your Poodle indoors, especially if they are old or ill. In cold temperatures, your Poodle can experience hypothermia, even though they have lots of fur. This occurs when their body temperature falls extremely below their normal temperature of around 101 degrees.

During hypothermia, the metabolic rate is lowered and the organ functions can be affected. Hypothermia symptoms include shivering, weakness, breathing problems, sluggishness, coordination problems and sometimes paralysis. If you live in cold weather, you should become familiar with these symptoms. If you suspect hypothermia, keep your Poodle warm in a blanket and get him to the vet immediately.

When we lived in Scotland, we had English Cockers and used to take them hiking with us in the winter in the snow. Somehow, it never occurred to me that their feet could get frostbite with all that hair and thick pads on their feet! Well, was I wrong! My husband had to carry our female cocker most of the way back. She developed huge ice balls between the toes on her feet and her feet were really sore. Fortunately, there was no permanent damage. We never did that again!

If you are going to hike with your Poodle in cold weather, invest in a pair of boots for him. Also, cutting the hair between your dog's toes and applying Vaseline or cooling spray before your hike will keep the ice from sticking. Watch out for salt on the roads and sidewalks as well. This can hurt your Poodles feet if they are cracked fro the cold weather.

Frostbite is very bad news! It causes tissue death in cells. The areas that are most prone to frostbite are the most highly exposed areas on your Poodle, which include the feet, tail, ears, scrotum and mammary glands.

If your Poodle is outdoors during the day, he may eat more during the cold weather. This gives them more fuel to help keep them warm. Always give them access to fresh drinking water as well. Use a heated bowl if it is very cold, so the water won't freeze. If you want to and if your Poodle will tolerate it, you can put a sweater or coat on your dog. They have lots of fashionable designer ones available these days!

If you follow the steps above to prevent frostbite and hypothermia, your Poodle should tolerate the cold weather quite well.

Sandy Riordan Creator of the website - Standard Poodles USA Everything you need and want to know about Standard Poodles!

http://www.standardpoodlesusa.com

Your Dog Goes Missing

Writen by Kadence Buchanan

This article, serves as a guide to all dog-owners that wish not to experience the agony and distress of having to deal with the fact that their dog is gone missing. Just read carefully the tips that follow, keeping in mind that your best friend needs an owner who is capable of being proactive as well as encouraging it to catch, fetch, pull, tag and chew. The most important thing to remember is that if your dog gets lost, chances are that someone, somewhere, has seen it. Do not get discouraged and do not panic. Be aware and it is likely that you will be reunited with your beloved companion again, if you follow the instructions listed below and keep yourself organized and prepared at all times.

- Keep an action checklist in a visible location, along with the current phone numbers of emergency contacts, like individuals and organizations you will need to call in case of an emergency. Also keep a copy in your vehicle for when you are traveling.

- Of extreme importance is to keep with this list of contacts a current local street map. It can greatly assist your search in case you need to coordinate a search unit.

- Check frequently your dog to see that he wears his collar. Have a tag attached to the collar with the dog's name and your current home and/or cell phone number. Additionally, always have a current rabies tag and pet license tag attached to your dog's collar. You can find it again sooner by using the engraved tag numbers.

- However, dogs can loose their collars on the streets. For real security, consider putting a microchip implant to your dog and register the chip's number with one of the available registries of your area. If your dog gets stolen or lost and gets dumped or found it can be identified through its microchip ID number. Permanent identification, either that is in the form of a microchip or tattoo, is also useful in case you ever have to prove to law that this dog is indeed yours and you are the one they should return it to.

- Prior to having to deal with any unfortunate event, register your dog to the available services of your area. In most cases registration can be completed online and you will save precious time if something actually happens.

- Ensure you have recent and reliable color photos of your dog that show clearly all your dogs' characteristics, so that you can make a big publicity fuss and make it extremely difficult for thieves to try to keep your dog. Taking pictures annually (maybe something to do on the dog's birthday), is a must. You need to photograph your dog's head and body from different angles (top, front, head shot, side-on, standing, etc.). Focus especially on any special markings your dog might carry.

- Write a simple and clear description of your dog and have it stored in computer's memory-along with the most recent set of photographs-in order to create posters/flyers and publish its disappearance.

- Search in advance and save the webpages of your local animal control authorities for immediate retrieval. This can assist you to immediately publicize its disappearance online through the multiple online services.

- Maintain your garden fence to keep it dog-proof and check frequently the locks on your doors and windows in order to be sure that your dog is safely confined when you leave it alone in the house.

- Guard your dog in your garden and runs. Never allow your dog to roam free in an unfamiliar neighborhood. Leash it at all times. If a dog gets loose in an unfamiliar area its chances of ever finding its way home are particularly small.

- Do not leave your dog tied up outside shops, gyms, classrooms, offices, etc., and do not leave your dog unattended inside your vehicle.

- Be wary of strangers expressing an interest in your dog. Watch out for suspicious characters. You do not have to become overprotective, but at least you have to be aware of the risks. Remember that your dog is your responsibility. Do not leave it to be taken care from friendly strangers.

- If you think you are being followed, do not go straight back home. Try visiting a friend's or neighbor's house, who does not own a dog. Stay at your friend's or neighbor's house for at least half an hour so as to give to the stalker the impression that the house you entered is where the dog actually lives.

Kadence Buchanan writes articles on many topics including Pets, Shopping, and Kids and Teens

Household Dangers For Dogs

Writen by Mary Casey

What does chocolate, grapes and calla lilies have in common? They are all potentially deadly for your dog.

When you first get your new dog, you are usually aware of the basic needs of a bowl for fresh water available at all times, dog gates to prevent accidents from falling down stairs, or to isolate the new dog in a safe environment. Are you aware, however, of other, common household items that could be seriously harmful to your pet?

Household plants are beautiful to look at but can injure or even kill your dog if ingested. Some of the more common deadly houseplants include :

1) The philodendron. All parts of this common houseplant are poisonous. If eaten, this plant can cause swelling of the mouth and throat and damage the kidneys. If your dog eats enough, it could kill him. This plant is poisonous for children, also.

2) Peace lilies, calla lilies, and pothos can have the same deleterious effects as the philodendron.

3) Some plants used for live holiday decorations can be deadly. The yew bush produces beautiful red berries which can lead to seizures, coma and even death if eaten. Mistletoe berries are toxic for animals. They cause diarrhea, vomiting, pain, and could make your dog loose consciousness and comatose. Use artificial decorations; they'll last longer and your pets will be safer.

4) Poinsettia: There has been much controversy over this plant and whether or not it is poisonous for dogs. It can cause mouth irritation and stomach pain, so why have it within reach of your dog?

5) Dumb Cane: A pretty green plant, known for its foliage, this plant should be known to dog owners for its ability to seriously injure your pet. The dumb cane can cause mouth irritation, stomach upset, asphyxiation, seizures and death.

We always love to give our dogs little bites or treats of human food, but sometimes food that is fine for humans to eat can be deadly for dogs.

1) Chocolate: Chocolate has an ingredient called theobromine, which can cause epileptic seizures in dogs prone to seizures, or it could cause the heart to go into an abnormal rhythm leading to a heart attack, or even internal bleeding from intestinal irritation which can lead to death. The amount of chocolate eaten, and the size of the dog will determine the outcome.

2) Grapes and Raisins: Dogs can choke on grapes and asphyxiate Raisins and grapes are also poisonous for dogs.

3) Onions and Garlic:: If eaten raw, onions or garlic can cause the red blood cells to break down, leading to hemolytic anemia.

4) Nuts: Nuts are not good for dogs to eat. Walnuts are poisonous and other nuts can lead to bladder stones.

The new dog owner needs to be aware of the dog's environment and control potential dangers. This list is by no means all inclusive, and the responsible dog owner will check with his vet for complete information on making your home a safe one for your dog.

Important: Please consult your own vet or pet professional before using any advice!

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Mary Casey is an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ which is a site for Writers.

Rabbit As Pet

Writen by Amanda Gates

Rabbits are one of the most popular pets, apart from dogs and cats. They look attractive, lovely, gentle, friendly and cute. They are easy to take care and undemanding in terms of care and housing. They will settle well either indoor or outdoor, at home.

There are 40 species of rabbits and hares worldwide. All domesticated rabbits are originated from European rabbits. The scientific name for domestic rabbit is Oryctolagus cuniculus.

Typically, domesticated rabbits weigh between 2.2-221lb (1-10kg). The domesticated rabbits can be fed on commercially produced rabbit food, pellets, hay, green food, root vegetables, tree bark, herbs and apple.

The gestation period of a rabbit is 31 days and the typical litter size ranges from 6-8 young. The lifespan varies with breed.

Keeping a rabbit as pet requires a good training system to prevent unnecessary destructions or hassle. For example, furniture and carpet chewing problems, pseudo pregnancy symptoms, litter problems, fights, behavioral problems, rabbit-house worries, sickness, fleas, predators and etc. Nevertheless, these challenges can be overcome when the owners have the knowledge and experience to deal with them. Thus, one of the recommended ways to acquire the important knowledge is to read widely and exchange practical information with experienced rabbit owners.

It is important to watch out for any abnormalities in your rabbits as rabbits are susceptible to various digestive ailments and other life-threatening diseases. For example, rabbits are vulnerable to myxomatosis and VHD viruses. These are the killer viruses!

There is no universal system of classification for rabbit breeds. Some popular breeds of rabbits include:

· Alaska
· American Fuzzy Lop
· American Sable
· Angora
· Belgian Hare
· Beveren
· Californian
· Champagne D'Argent
· Checkered Giant
· Chinchilla
· Dutch
· Dwarf Hotot
· English Lop
· Flemish Giant
· Florida White
· Harlequin
· Havana
· Himalayan
· Hotot
· Jersey Wooly
· Lilac
· Holland Lop
· Mini Lop
· Mini Rex
· Netherland Dwarf
· New Zealand
· Palomino
· Polish
· Rex
· Rhinelander
· Satin
· Silver
· Silver Fox
· Silver Marten
· Tan

Yours Sincerely,
Amanda Gates,
http://www.rabbitinfo.careforpet-rabbit.com

The Symptoms Of Canine Diabetes

Writen by Rose Smith

It can take a while for us humans to suspect that we may have diabetes and go in for tests. It's much harder for us to spot the symptoms of diabetes in dogs. The disease tends to sneak up and the symptoms will often go unnoticed until the disease has become quite advanced. Here are some things you should always watch for in your dog and take them to a vet to be tested if you suspect that your dog may have developed canine diabetes.

**Canine Diabetes Symptoms To Watch For**

Drinking a Lot of Water

Although it's natural for your dog to be thirstier in the summer or after a bit of rambunctious exercise, excessive drinking throughout the day and that continues for several days can be a sign of diabetes. If you notice that you're having to fill the water bowl more often, you may want to have your dog tested for canine diabetes. Other diseases may also cause an increase in thirst as well, so having a veterinarian check your pet is a good idea.

Urinating a Lot

It stands to reason, if your dog is drinking more, then they're going to be wanting outside a lot more too. So, although you may not notice the increased water intake right away (as it can be very gradual), you'll certainly be made aware of the increased need to urniate (think revolving door).

Your Dog May Develop "Sweet Breath"

Most of us dog owners will complain of a dog's "bad breath", so you'll most likely notice if the breath takes on a "sweet" smell. This is a sign that your dog's blood sugar levels have risen to high and need to be brought under control.

Shaking

No, we're not talking about how a dog shakes after they get wet. This is a subtle shaking/shivering that accompanies hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and is very serious. If this symptom appears, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately as it is very serious and your might require an injection of insulin.

Weakness and Tiredness

Your dog may also appear weak and very tired most days. If your normally active dog suddenly develops these symptoms over the course of a few days, have them tested for diabetes.

Loss of Weight

Normally, being overweight can bring on canine diabetes, but sometimes a dog will begin to steadily lose weight instead. Regardless of whether this is from the onset of diabetes or not, you need to get your dog to a veterinarian right away for tests to rule out any other type of serious disease.

About the Author:

(c) 2005. Rose Smith is the owner of Caring For Canines and invites you to explore the benefits of holistic dog medicines and remedies. To read more about dog-related health problems and advice, please visit: http://www.caringforcanines.com/articles-health-problems.shtml

How To Buy The Right Dog Food For Your Pit Bull Terrier

Writen by Tim Amherst

Knowing exactly which dog food to buy for your Pit Bull terrier can be confusing. There are countless options available when you go to the store and many of them are very unhealthy choices. Dog food is offered in packets, cans, or large bags. Dog foods that are mass prepared can be high in quality and well balanced, it is important that you buy the best you can afford. Most of the larger dog food companies maintain testing laboratories that check for quality and nutritional value.

Basically, there are three different types of dog food.

1. Dry food
2. Semi moist food
3. Canned food.

Dry foods are made up of roughly ten percent water. The raw ingredients used to make dry dog food differs greatly from brand to brand, so stick with a higher quality food.

These dry foods are generally less expensive when compared to semi-moist and canned foods. This is beneficial if you own several dogs or have one that eats more than the typical canine. You can also purchase dry dog food in bulk quantities and store them for several weeks. Storing dry dog foods for too long may reduce the nutritional value of it however.

Semi-moist foods contain more water than dry foods, typically in the range of 25%. Semi moist dog food is usually offered in the form of chunks of meat or simulated hamburger. Given the choice, most dogs prefer semi moist foods over dry foods, however these foods aren't as good for a dog's dental health.

Canned foods are the most popular choice of dog food and it is available in two different forms. The first kind of canned food has a cereal component, making it a complete diet. The second type has a meat only component that doesn't give the dog a very balanced diet unless something like a dog biscuit is given in addition to the bowl of food.

No matter what you choose to feed your dog, be sure to follow the feeding instructions on the packaging as they differ greatly. Don't overfeed your Pit Bull by feeding him extra large portions or extra meals throughout the day and be sure to get your dog out for his daily walk.

To learn all about raising an American Pit Bull Terrier and training Pit Bulls, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Nutrition And Your Dogs Behavior

Writen by Jeanne Perciaccanto

Nutrition and Your Dog's Behavior

Proper nutrition is the fundamental basis for every aspect of your dog's life.

It affects their health and longevity by offering an essential balance of proteins, fats, complex carbohydrates and the trace nutrients and minerals their bodies need for growth, repair and the mantainance of a sound immunne system.

Nutrition is a complex and integral part of your dog's ability to think clearly, lower stress levels and produce a calmer behavior.

Thinking takes a lot of energy.  Dogs invoved in a training program, expend tremendous amounts of mental energy focusing on the tasks presented to them.  If your dog starts with minimal nutrition, they become lethargic, edgy or hyper active when asked to perform the simplest of tasks.  They cannot focus and loss concentration after a short period of time or become confused.  If the dog is continually asked to do something they cannot comprehend, confusion can lead to an aggressive form of acting out.

In training dogs, the first thing I look at is the dog's diet!  I work from the inside out.  Training becomes ineffective if the underlying caiuse for the behaviors are not changed.

Hyper, unfocused and out of control dogs often eat foods with high levels of cereal compounds such as: wheat, corn and corn meal.

Aggressive dogs eat foods contain higher levels of incomplete protein which produce excessive amounts of energy.  These proteins are often incomplete chains, not offering proper building and repair or may be difficult to digest.

Shy or stressed dogs do not digest their foods well at all and can suffer from intestinal complications such as diarrhea.  Their coats are often dry, brittle and shed heavily.

One way to test the foods you are feeding is to soak the food in water for about 30 minutes. If it swells in size and becomes mushy, it is primarily cereal.

Are your dog's stool soft and loose or is the dog gassy?  If so, they are not digesting the food properly.

By looking at their food, you will do more to help balance their behavior, as well as, contribute to their health and longevity.

Life Abundance offeres the best combination of balanced nutrients for a proper diet.

The proteins are complete chains and digest easily.

The carbohydrates are complex and do not turn into simple sugars producing energy swings of high and low behaviors.

The Probiotics in the food balance the intestinal tract and make the food digest more easily, which is perfect for the nervous or shy dog and ensures all dogs are recieving the nutrients they need from the food.

Jeanne Perciaccanto is a certified Dog Trainer at http://www.ultimatedogtraining.com and Health Educator.

Information on food can found at http://www.healthydogfood.net

 

 

 

Jeanne Perciaccanto has been a professional dog trainer for twenty years at, http://www.ultimatedogtraining.com and holds a degree in Health.  She has combined both disciplines and researches diet and nutrition as it pertains to canine behavior. Visit http://www.healthydogfood.net

Pickingout The Perfect Dog Breed

Writen by James Johnson

Here are some important thoughts and/or questions you should have in your mind before you go out & bring home your new dog, first off I will pull no punches in this regard of owning a new dog. It is a lot of work at first; here is an example, every time the new pup wakes up from a nap he or she will need to go pee and off you go outside. This new dog will be with you for the next 10 to 15 years at least. Also, this new dog can and will be a loyal, faithful and devoted companion. Bringing a dog into your home is an important step for you and/or your family. There are many breeds to choose from, how do you manage to make a decision on which one breed is best suited for you? With a little thought, you can nail down the selections & find the best-suited dog breed by following a few simple steps.

Foremost, how much space do you have. Many people tend to forget this factor. Ask yourself how much space do you have in your home. It should be the primary factor to consider before picking the dog breed. If you and/or your family live in a tiny apartment, you will want to refrain from getting a large dog. Look for dogs in the Toy group, such as Yorkshire Terriers, or Some of the smaller dogs in the Terrier group, like the Miniature Schnauzer.

With that said, if you have children, you have to think about the size of the dog, as well. Very small dogs, such as Chihuahuas or Maltese, can be very frail & are occasionally accidentally injured by very tiny children. But then, very prominent dogs, such as Boxers or the Saint Bernard, can be overly rumbustious as puppies & can inadvertently turn your infant into a human bowling pin. Consider average sized breeds, such as Fox Terriers or Lhasa Apsos, as an alternative. It's best to consider the children rather than your own preference.

The next thing is, can you give your new dog any exercise. If you have a residence with a fenced yard, your domestic dog will be able to get some physical exercise on his own. But, dog breeds in the Sporting, Hound, & Herding groupings are very high-energy animals & you will need to have enough time to provide them with more intensive physical exercise. Plan to take a great deal of long strolls with your new hound or go for a day-after-day romp in the park. Let's think about it, these new dog breeds were bred to work hard and don't do well unless they have a job to do or a way to burn off excess energy.

Finally, don't forget to look at grooming demands. Some domestic dog breeds only need a little more than a half hour or so of grooming a week, while others call for to be groomed for around a little more than an hour a day. So let's think about it, if you are short on time, don't buy a Poodle or a Maltese, unless, of course, you plan to take your new hound for a groom. Breeds like Boston Terriers or Whippets are fine choices for busy people who don't have time to do a lot of grooming. Boiled down, the best dog breed is the one that fits the kind of life the future owner has.

Lastly, Most people choose their dog breed because each person has their own pre-conceived idea of what he or she wants in a dog. Sometimes its just the physical attributes of the dog, like the size, the shape of the face and/or the overall looks. Do yourself a favor and do not forget the above simple steps.

After you make up your mind on which breed of new puppy you want, you will need to consider the age of the new puppy. Many individuals opt to buy a cuddly little puppy instead of an older new hound. While puppies have not acquired any bad habits, it will be up to the new owner to be sure that the puppy becomes housebroken and obedience trained.

Whilst you've specified the breed options and have determined which new dog is right for you, don't get too relaxed. After all, you still have a single more important choice to make, what to name your new puppy!

James Johnson, the author of this article, discovers and presents information so you can become knowedgeable, in the subjects you are searching for. I hope you find this article helpful. Your choice for a dog breed is many. For more infomative articles and pictures of differant breeds, to help you with your dog breed choice go to dog breeds or http://choose-your-dog-breed.info

Puppy Training For Healthier Smarter Dogs

Writen by Trevor Mulholland

Ignoring the necessity of puppy training could lead to a whole bunch of problems in the future. For one thing, housebreaking needs to be done as soon as possible, for your household's hygiene - and your dog's as well. Also, training your puppy more basic things like not going out into the street in busy traffic, or keeping away from poisonous creatures like rattlesnakes, could well save your puppy's life!

If you want your puppy to grow up to be strong and smart, let puppy training begin at an early age. One of the first things you should remember is that "positive reinforcement" - also known as "reward training" - is considered more effective on dogs than the old-fashioned physical punishment techniques. So keep a bag of treats handy, for giving to your pup when he accomplishes important tasks. You also need to have the right equipment and supplies handy, like crates, collars, and toys for your pet to get accustomed to.

Obedience should be the first thing to teach your puppies; agility or speed training could come at the same time, or even later. It's important that your young pets know who's the boss, and have absolute faith in you. Using treats and frequent praise as rewards for jobs well done is a great way to build up your pet's trust in you. Like other animals, even human beings, dogs become fonder of their companions if their companions make them feel good about themselves. It's important to express to your puppy what you feel after he performs his actions, so he quickly learns which things please or displease you.

One of the most important lessons to teach your puppy is housebreaking. Some pet owners use crates for this task. Crates can be bought in pet stores, at different sizes, so you can upgrade the size of your crate as your puppy grows - the important thing is that you use a crate that's only big enough for your puppy to stand up and turn around in. Different pet owners have different ideas about how to use a crate for housebreaking, but there's only one advisable way: when you see signs that your puppy is about to urinate or defecate inside the house, keep your puppy in his crate for a moment. Then release him and immediately open the door so he could go out to do his "thing."

Remember that as a rule, dogs don't dirty up the places where they like to eat or sleep. So your puppy is sure not to dirty up his crate, especially if he thinks of it as a sort of play area. Don't let your puppy think of the crate as a cage! Keep a toy in the crate or lure your puppy in with treats, to encourage this point of view.

New dog owners may be daunted by the task, but puppy training is not as hard as you think. Look up training tips on the web, or ask your vet for advice. It's sure to make the process of growing up with your puppy worthwhile!

Puppy-train.com provides you with information on puppy training, dog barking, dog training collars, dog training schools, dog grooming supplies and homemade dog treats. Go to http://www.puppy-train.com/

The Love Between Dog And Human

Writen by Phyllis Benton

I got candy girl when she was six weeks old. I wanted a pure breed black lab but there didn't seem to be any available at the time. I called to answer an ad for some mix lab puppies. I went to look at the puppies but heart really wasn't in it. As I looked at the puppies, Candy kept crawling up on my sneakers. I would move away from her as I still did not know which, if any, that I wanted. She continued to follow me and would climb back up on my shoes. After several times of moving and her returning, I picked her up to look at her closer. As I did, I made the decision to take her home with me. I felt that she chose to be with me.

We made a game of feeding her. Her dry food had a variety of colors in it. I would pick out a certain color and feed it to her calling it meat, vegetable, and cheese. She was fascinated, like a child, with the game. I fed her piece by piece until she had had enough. I gave her some can dog food a few times a week and fed her with a spoon. She loved the attention.

She became my best friend. We played together and worked together. When I had raked leaves or put limps off trees that had fallen off trees, on a tarp, she would grab one end in the front and help me drag it to the pile we had for burning. She also helped me when I planted flowers or bulbs. She would either run off with the containers or dig up the flowers or bulbs as soon as I got them in the ground.

She loved to go to the neighbors homes to see what she could bring home. She brought trash, baby dolls, stuffed animals and food. Once the back yard was white with the fiber fill from a huge stuffed animal she stole and tore apart—if you tried to take it from her she would run or swallow it. I learned how to sneak up on her if it was something that I knew. if swallowed, may harm her.

Candy loved the water so I got her a baby pool to play in. She loved it and would get in and lie down to cool off in the hot summer days. She would sneak down to the creek to get wet and muddy when no one was looking. Sometimes she would bring home a gift for Mommy. That included rats, mice and once she brought home a possum. She put the possum in her swimming pool and then came wagging her tail for me to come and see. I figure she was making sure it was dead by drowning if not already.

She comes in to wake me in the night if she hears any sort of a beeping noise or something that doesn't sound right. Candy is nine now. I can't begin to tell you all the stories about her and our lives together. She is my best buddy. I can't imagine ever loosing her.

Coco came about after we lost Bubba at the age of seven to a brain tumor. He was abandon at four and was going to the dog pound. I rescued him and brought him home. He is a whole other story.

Back to Coco. Candy needed a companion again after her mourning time of six months. She was ready to have a new house hold member again. I didn't think she, or me, needed a have a puppy to train. Both of us were getting to old for that. Candy needed a dog a bit older so I got on the Internet and looked at shelters, rescue shelters until I found the dog I thought perfect for her. He was a lab mix. His name was Coco. I got in touch with the rescue shelter and was told that he had already been adopted. It was very disappointing. I contacted another woman who told me of another rescue shelter. We went to see the dogs available for adoption after being told they had a mix breed lab about a year old. At the shelter we were introduced to a young dog, kind of skinny, male, mixed breed. His name was also Coco. It didn't dawn on me at the time until after Candy thought him to be okay, she went with us, and signed the adoption papers, that it was the same dog as was on the Internet. It seemed as though we were supposed to have him.

Coco got out every toy from the toy box when in the house. He played with each and every one of them. He was full of energy and he was very bossy. He would push Candy out of the way when she would try to get close to us. He wanted all the attention.

We learned of his fear of the thunder storms after the first one that came after bringing him home. We were asleep and I woke to the sound of a scratching sound in the bathroom. We have a Hugh garden tub with no surround in the front, just a small edge. He was standing, all fours, on the top of the tub, shaking all over. I can't even imagine how he got up there. I lifted the 73 pound dog down and closed the door to the bathroom. The vet gave us some tranquilizers to give him before the storms to calm him. I have lost many hours sleep with him and storms. Coco is extremely intelligent and eager to learn. He is so affectionate. He will lay his head in my lap and go sound asleep. He loves to be kissed.

These dogs are my family, my kids, and couldn't imagine life without them. I talk about all my dogs in my new book, Living Nightmares of Abuse. http://www.pdbenton.org My book is available at http://www.publishamerica.com and on any on line book store. Check your book store for listings.

How To Groom A Bird

Writen by Grant Carroll

Just like dogs and cats, birds also require grooming to maintain optimum health and happiness. The basic essentials to bird grooming are wing clipping, nail clipping, beak filing, preening and bathing.

Wing clipping is one of the most important parts of bird grooming. Not only does it help prevent the bird from flying away or flying into something and hurting itself, it helps the taming process and builds a bond between bird and owner. Be sure, however, that an alternative form of exercise is available since they will no longer be able to fly easily. Big cages and play pens are great for a bird to walk and climb around. The best method for wing clipping is to clip the outer primaries of both wings below the level of the primary coverts. When the new feathers grow in after a few months, wait until they are completely mature before clipping again. New feathers contain a pulp of blood vessels and nerves that will cause profuse bleeding and pain for the bird if clipped.

Nail clipping is essential for both the bird's and the owner's comfort. The bird won't enjoy walking around on long nails and it will be uncomfortable for the owners arm skin if the bird decides to perch there. Be sure not to wait too long before clipping so that the quick doesn't get any longer. Don't cut the quick or just as in dogs there will be a lot of pain and bleeding.

Grant Carroll proud father of four dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters

Visit Elizabeth Austin Wholesale for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies

Strengthening The Human Dog Bond

Writen by Jack Hartley

There is no doubt that it is a joy to see a well trained dog. A dog that has been trained is well mannered and can be relied upon to stay calm in even the most distracting of environments.

Statistics also show that a well trained dog is far more likely to have a home for life, usually with the same owner. Well trained dogs do not tend to end up abandoned and living at the local rescue centre.

If we draw the comparison to any relationship in our life – the most successful ones we have are those where there are clear boundaries; where each party to the relationship knows and understands what behaviour is acceptable and what is not. By training a dog, the owner is teaching the animal where the boundaries of acceptable behaviour are and this in turn means that the dog is no longer a liability or an embarrassment to the owner.

There is no reason why owners should not train their dogs at home or by attending classes. For some of the less teachable dogs, there are even boot camps available. The key to successful training wherever it takes place is a consistency in approach. The owner, or the trainer, must determine what acceptable behaviour is and consistently reward the dog when that behaviour is demonstrated. Equally, unacceptable behaviour must not be rewarded.

If you do not want your dog to sleep on your couch – he must never sleep on your couch. Keeping him off the couch is not to be reserved for training sessions. It is very easy to separate training sessions from every day life but it is essential that the training continues so the dog is absolutely clear about what is expected of him (or her).

Dogs have no way of differentiating between training lessons and everyday life and for the owner to demonstrate inconsistent behaviour just leads to confusion for the dog.

You will want to train your dog to be sociable without making the first move. Whilst you as the owner may not mind your dog climbing all over you, there are many people who will not feel the same way. It is important that your dog learns that it is not acceptable to jump up to greet people – if he or she does this with a child it could result in an inadvertent injury.

It is important that your dog learns to behave well when socializing with other dogs. There is nothing worse than having a dog that can never be released from the leash simply because the owner cannot trust him or her around other dogs.

Few people are lucky enough to live in an area where dogs can be walked off the leash all the time. For this reason it is important that your dog is trained to walk nicely on the leash – without pulling.

The 'sit' 'stay' 'down' commands do nothing more than teach your dog obedience – they reinforce boundaries and go a long way to ensuring that your dog will comply with your instructions.

The number of dogs that end up in rescue centres and are ultimately destroyed every year is a tragedy caused in the main by irresponsible dog owners. If you are going to take a dog into your home please view it as a long term commitment and understand that the dog will need to be taught to please you.

The rewards of taking the time to train your dog are immense; A strong human – dog bond that lasts a lifetime.

Jack Hartley is passionate about dogs and provides a wealth of free information and resources for dog owners to encourage them to learn more about their dog in order that they might forge a strong bond with their pet. He can be found at http://www.just-about-dogs.com He also posts regular musings at his blogspot http://justaboutdogs.blogspot.com

The Joy Of Having A Cat As A Pet

Writen by Steve Hill

In this article, I write about the pleasures of having a cat as a pet. It took quite a long time for my wife to persuade me into letting her have a cat, but we now have three. I would certainly recommend other people to give a cat a home as they are no trouble at all and add lots of value and love to the household.

Looking back I am not really sure why I was so against having a cat as a pet. It was not for the financial reasons of buying the cat food as it is not exactly expensive. I suppose I thought that they would ruin some of the furniture or may even pooh and wee on the floor. This has not been the case and thinking about it, I was being rather stupid, as you no doubt agree.

This is the daily schedule of our three cats. They wake up in the dining room which is now basically the cats room. They are then fed and eat their breakfast. In this dining or cats room, we have put litter trays down for them, but it is very rare that they use them. The cats then go out of the house for a while and a little bit later can usually be seen sunbathing in the garden, that is if the weather is good of course.

At around twelve midday the cats then come in for some lunch, yet more cat food. I often wonder how they do not get bored eating the same type of food, day in, day out. They will then sleep somewhere around the house for the next few hours before asking to be let out to do their business.

At around 5pm they have some more food and then decide to become a little more sociable. They would then normally join the family in the main living room and curl up to sleep some more, normally on somebodys lap. Each cat is quite funny as they seem to have a favourite member of the family whose lap they would prefer to sit and sleep on. My two children really love our cats especially during the evenings.

The three cats will then wonder out again at around 10pm before asking to come back in around an hour later.

What a life this is, if I am able to come back to this planet after I die, I would like to come back as a cat please.

The cats have really been no trouble at all and we are planning to let both of our children have their very own cat to look after, for Christmas.

For the record if any of you are interested out there, our current cats are called, Tom, Ben and Pip. They all get on really well together and very rarely fight.

Maybe I am just lucky but when talking about the subject of cats with my family and friends, they all tell similar stories to mine.

I have now agreed to owning a dog. Her name is Cassie and even though she requires a lot more attention as in the way of walks, she has also been a dream. In my opinion however you can not beat the cats and their lifestyle.

Stephen Hill helps to promote a number of websites including:

stammering advice

poker tips

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How To Teach A Dog To Heel

Writen by Anthony Lee

If you are a dog owner and would like to train your dog, one of the simplest and easiest commands for the dog to learn is the "heel" command. What is to heel for the dog? This means that when successful, the dog will walk alongside its owner at a proper distance, not too far ahead, and not too far behind, usually just matching your stride. You might be asking, how do I teach my dog to heel? Here are a few tips:

1. With your dog at your left side, instruct him to face the same way you are facing. Make a simple point with your finger to the direction you want him to face along with a little prodding and you should be fine.

2. Prepare the dog's favorite food (a piece of meat, hamburger, etc.) and hold it in front of him. The dog will usually try to take the food from your hand, but you mustn't give it to him just yet; try to hold him off for a little while.

3. Say the word "heel" and start taking a few steps forward, while keeping the food in front of him, just barely out of his reach. If he does not obey, try to entice him some more. This would require some patience on your part. If the dog obeys and starts walking, don't neglect to give him some praise and good words. Playing a bit with his hair, patting him, giving him a toy to play with, and other forms of showing your dog some love would be a good thing too.

4. Keep doing this routine in short intervals throughout the day for a period of time, until the dog learns the command "heel". Results will vary depending on the dog. Some will take days, others weeks, some others even months. It is important that you, as a dog owner, will persevere and keep your patience as this process goes on.

5. As a final tip, try not to use a leash in training the dog. It is recommended that you use his favorite food and positive words and actions during the training process. Enjoy!

Should you being a dog owner follow these tips properly, you will be satisfied when the positive results come out after some time. Patience and perseverance are two traits that need to be properly stressed in this training routine.

Realize that it will take time for your dog to fully understand your command. Realize that it will take time for your dog to obey; many times, dogs are just plain stubborn.

Do not lose hope in teaching your dog to heel, instead try to have fun and enjoy that additional time spent with man's best friend.

To learn more tips on training your dog, please visit http://www.Dog-Training-Techniques.info/

Labour And Delivery In Queens

Writen by Cerianwen Ball

A normal pregnancy will take around 9 weeks before labour, this is the time you should be making preparations for labour and giving your Queen a little extra attention.

Make sure that she is well fed and has plenty of fluids, a quiet area to rest and try to handle her as little as possible. Your queen may become a little agitated and restless, but she will find herself a rest place and try to relax as much as she can.

It is common for nest boxes to be used and should be placed where your queen opts to rest. This will become more apparent as the pregnancy matures. I tend to opt for a layer of towels for her to lay on which allows the queen to stretch out and relax whilst also allowing space for me to be at her side and aid her if needed at the birth.

When she is ready to give birth you will notice that your queen will become more restless, will pace and start to pant, she may also try drawing your attention by crying and pacing near you until you follow her to her nest site. Labour can last several hours so patience is important. You may notice a thin filmy mucus near her vaginal area and she will begin to have contractions.

Birthing time varies from queen to queen, a kitten can be born every 15 minutes or so or can take several hours, it is also important to note that up to 40% of births are breech and are considered normal and although it is a stressful time as long as the queen is comfortable and is not in distress the birth should be normal.

The kitten is born in a soft and delicate sac which encompasses the placenta which is born either along with the kitten or separate. When the kitten is pushed through the birth canal the queen will immediately start to lick the kitten around the mouth and nose tearing the thin sac and expelling the yellowy fluid inside. This washing stimulates the kitten and it should start to cry and breath, she will then proceed to chew through the umbilical cord leaving a small piece attached to the kitten before eating the placenta. Do not worry if your queen does not do this do not worry, all queens are different. The placenta is said to contain nutrients valuable to queen in her first days of nurturing her kittens. However if the queen does not start the licking process automatically then take a warm damp cloth and gently wipe at the sac then around the nose and mouth area yourself, take the kitten gently with its head resting in the fork between your fingers and rub with a towel to warm, dry and stimulate the kitten.

Some take the kittens as soon as the queen is settled and place the newborn in a nursing box, I tend to leave the kittens with the queen until they are all delivered unless there are complications as the kittens nursing can sometimes stimulate contractions for the next kitten to be born.

When all the kittens are born place then gently in a snug nursing box and ensure the queen knows where they are being taken. I tend to place the nursing box as close to the birthing area as possible so that the tired queen does not have far to go to be with her kittens and is less likely to take them to a new area. It is important that the queen remains with her kittens so that they can be kept warm and well fed. If however your queen does not do this, microwave a towel so that it is gently heated but not hot and place under the box, this will temporarily keep the kittens warm until the queen enters the box.

The kittens will feed until their bellies are full and will sleep and eat for the first few days without much movement. The kittens are born blind and will not open their eyes for several days, until this time the queen remains with her kittens and keeps them warm and safe leaving only for food and to litter. During these first few days the queen will wash the kittens and will clean up after their messes herself.

If at any time during labour or during the first few days after the birth you notice any complications do not hesitate to contact your local vet who will be able to offer advice and support.

Cerianwen is an author of poetry, children's stories and articles. She has an interest in and has four cats with many years experience of caring for and breeding. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Muzzle Your Dog

Writen by Jon Dunkerley

In a world filled with over 100 breeds of dogs, finding the right one for you can be quite a challenge. Being able to research the different characteristics brought to the table by different dogs, can be fun as well as mis-guiding. Talking to trainers and so called experts in a dog related field is confusing to say the least as they all have differing opinions on anything from training and behavior, to nutrition and well being.

A topic of conversation that is however an issue agreed on by all is the fact that dog attacks in our country are at a level of occurrence that is startling, and it is up to us the dog owners to rectify this unsettling trend before we develop an era in which dogs of all breeds are shunned.

The biggest concern that I have is that people do not do the research before attaining a dog. Different breeds of dogs bring different attributes to the table, and by not familiarizing ourselves with what these attributes are, we are potentially inviting trouble to come our way.

The issue of dog "danger lists" has become quite relevant as of late due to the large amount of dog attacks in the last year or so. The sad thing is that this could and still can be prevented. The stupidist thing people tell me is that their dog would never do that! Do what exactly? Eat garbage, pee in the house, attack an innocent person or fellow canine?

I must admit that I am one of those people myself, however owning a Labrador Retriever, the burden of responsibility for me is not the same as it is for somebody acquiring or already owning a breed of dog that is known to be potentially dangerous.

The next question is how do we know which dogs are potentially dangerous? The answer to this is simple:

Dog attacks have been occurring in our society for as long as man has been in existence: and however all not reported, the fact that they are occurring in the first place tells us that we maybe trying to hard to domesticate our four-legged friends. Researching dog attacks that have been reported over the last 5 years, will lead you to the conclusion that their are 4 to 5 main pure or mix breeds of dogs listed as the attack dog. Back yard breeders do nothing to help the situation. Breeding dogs specifically to fight, or simply for the fun of watching two dogs mate, is a sure sign of the irresponsibility that we, supposedly the know-it-all race have shown and our continuing to show on a daily basis.

So what do we do to ensure that the number of dog attacks goes down instead of continuing to rise? By swallowing our egos and concerning ourselves with the safety of others instead of displaying stubborn determination to ensure that our dogs live as carefree as possible.

Solution

- Muzzle your dog in public – I cant tell you how angry I get at people when they tell me that they don't muzzle their dog because the dog doesn't like it! Dogs do not have the same thought capability as us humans. Ramifications do not concern the dog, it is the owner that has to deal with resulting behavior from their pet. Your dog may have a biting incident and forget about it a second later, where as you the handler, are left with the resulting traumatic situation whatever that may be.

The fact that your dog does not like wearing a muzzle should be irrelevant! By fussing frantically when you attempt to put the muzzle on your dog, the dog is obviously showing discomfort and stubbornness. Eventually tossing the muzzle aside and commencing your walk without it, is the worst thing you could possibly do! By doing this, you are telling your dog that if he fusses long and hard enough, he will eventually brake you! This is a terrible habit to get into because it in turn leads to other negative behaviors developing due to you, the owner's inconsistency in asserting the pack leadership with your dog.

We all know that the best way to avoid STD'S is to practice abstinence. Although this practice can be hard for some, it does attain the desired result, which is STD free. When you put a muzzle on your dog, put the muzzle on your dog! Act like it is a normal everyday event. Do not fuss over your dog, and do not give in to his persistent struggle to free himself. If the dog senses that you will crack if he puts up enough of a fuss, then he has already won. Putting the muzzle on your dog should be understood by your dog as a fact of life. Wearing a muzzle does not in anyway hurt your dog. What it does is keep his mouth closed disabling his bite! Now why is this a bad thing?

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Boa Constrictor Care Boa Constrictor Constrictor

Writen by Chris M Jones

Boa constrictors have always been a popular pet snake. Similar to Burmese Pythons in that they are considered a 'friendly giant' of the snake world. Luckily though, they do not quite reach the size of Burmese Pythons. Boa constrictors usually average 7-9feet in length, females being the larger of the sizes. They have been known however to reach 14feet in length, a formidable force for such a large bodied snake. Many sub-species of Boa constrictors are now recognized, most of which are smaller locality variants and should also be considered as good pet snakes. These variations make a good alternative if space is an issue.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snake's life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Boa constrictor, a vivarium 2m Length x 0.9m Width x 1m Height is ample. These large constrictors are one of a few species which are generally not worried about the size of their enclosure. The more room you can provide; the better. Many keepers decide to dedicate a whole room to their beloved snake. Other keepers may decide to use a corner of a room as the back walls and ceiling of the enclosure, and simply build 2 front walls. This will cut down the costs of building and allow for a larger space for the boa. Juveniles should be offered a far smaller enclosure until you are confident they are comfortable with you, their surroundings and feed regularly.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile Boa constrictors, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 'SSSHHH' factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Décor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Boa constrictor is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a large tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per metre in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Boa constrictors require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-92ºF while the cool end should be approximately 80-84ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a large Boa constrictor's enclosure is to use a large 250W Ceramic Heater with a reflector and safety grid so the snake cannot touch it. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the heater as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures. Heat mats are not recommended at all for large snakes, if so, they should not be accessible to it.

Lighting

Boa constrictors are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. They will often bask in the sun during the day in the wild, so lighting should be offered.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snake's enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12" up to 48" and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium. In a room-sized enclosure, a few may be needed.

Humidity

Boa constrictors occur over much of Central and Northern South America and therefore are exposed to a high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. A 60-70% humidity range will allow to snake to slough it's skin properly and become less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered fuzzy mice or rat pups, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult Boa constrictor should be fed on large rats. One or two of these every 2-3 weeks is ample. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 5-7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. The only exception when adult females should be fed more is when they need fattening up for breeding, or just after they have given birth. A gravid female should be fed double the normal amount for several weeks after she has given birth, and for as long as possible after ovulation. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snake's weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Royal Ball Python Care Python Regius

Writen by Chris M Jones

Royal pythons have become an extremely popular pet snake, particularly in the last decade. With the proper care, the reward of keeping these beautiful snakes is enormous, but I would like to stress that many individual specimens can be very fussy feeders. For that reason alone I believe this species is not an ideal beginners snake.

Royal Pythons are one of the most common snake species seen in Rescue Centres around the UK. The reason for this, is that most of the royal pythons bought each year are either wild caught or captive farmed individuals. Captive farming is when gravid or 'pregnant' females are captured and then kept in captivity until they lay their eggs. The females are then usually released and the eggs are incubated. The babies are then exported. Very rarely will they be fed until they reach their destination. Importers and wholesalers of reptiles have become better over the years, and will feed the babies several times before they are sold. Many however, are sold without ever having a meal. Being virtually from the wild, they have very strong basic instinct, and taking dead mice as prey is not something they will be used to. I hope the following care sheet will help guide you through the right steps in caring for your royal python.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the python's life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Royal python, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure, especially for royal pythons. The reason for this, is that they are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it's safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. If however, your royal python is behaving normally and feeds regularly; trying a larger enclosure can only be a good thing. Providing the snake does all this, than bigger is better.

Hatchling royal pythons should be placed into a smaller enclosure. It should be no longer than the length of the snake, and must have at least two hiding areas. When the snake is first purchased, it is a good idea to cover over the cage with something dark. This will keep the snake as stress free as possible. This can then be removed once the snake has eaten its first meal.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can too be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 'SSSHHH' factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature enough?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake, second making the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult royal python is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Royal pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 78-80ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 78-80º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a royal python enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Royal Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to any snake's enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12" up to 48" and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Royal Pythons are native to North Africa. The humidity is important for this species, but an overly high, constant humidity will cause problems. A 30-50% humidity should be offered, although perhaps raising it slightly when coming up to a slough will aid in shedding it's skin properly. This can be achieved by slightly misting the enclosure.

Feeding

Hatchling Royal Pythons are capable of feeding on rat pups or small mice. As they grow, so should their food. I recommend using a food item the same size as the girth of the snake. The girth is the diameter of the widest part of the snake, which should be the middle part of the body. Hatchling royal pythons should be fed once a week on one or two appropriately sized food items. As they grow, their food should too increase in size, but not in quantity. As an adult, their food intake can slow down to once every two weeks, and a larger rat should be offered.

Royal pythons can be incredibly fussy feeders. Many are wild caught or captive farmed, which is often the result of their tricky feeding habits. In my experience, the one trick that works most the time to get them feeding, is to heat up the food item and offer the food using the 'tease' feed method. Please refer to our 'Problematic Snake Feeding Page' for more detailed information on how to get your Royal Python feeding.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Parrot Care Tips Choosing The Best Parrot Cage On The Market

Writen by Ispas Marin

The cage is your beloved parrot's home. Any living being should have good home so you have to be sure that you can provide your parrot with the best conditions. Also if you choose the parrot cage wisely than you will avoid some parrot care problems that can appear in the future.

The parrot cage should be the largest expense after practically buying the parrot. So if you are going to spend some money then be sure to spend them on a good deal.

The parrot is going to spend a lot of time in the cage so you'll have to choose the right one for your pet. There are three parrot care issues that you should take in consideration when you are decided to buy a parrot cage. The most important parrot care issue is you bird's safety. There are many cases where parrots got injured or killed because of their cage.

I will try to discuss al this three parrot care points that you should have in mind when you are going to buy a parrot cage.

Safety - Like i already said safety is the most important thing when choosing a parrot cage. You can find Knock down cages on the market. You you buy one of those than you'll have to examine it very good to see if there are any pieces that can be easily removed by you parrot. If there are than i don't advice you to buy this kind of parrot cages because the little pieces can be swallowed by you parrot.

The majority of parrot cages i saw in pet stores are built from different metals like wire, stainless steel, zinc. From what i found so far the wire parrot cages are the most economical. but you mustn't forget to inspect the cage regularly for broken welds or broken wires.

You can find metal parrot cages at a medium prices on the market. This parrot cages are built in a variety of metals shapes and colors.

The most expensive parrot cage that you can find in your search is the Stainless steel cage. The advantages of this type of parrot cages is that they will never rust or cause metal poisoning. So i think that if you are ready to make a good deal, buying a stainless steal parrot cage would be the perfect choice. Even if it's expensive i can ensure you that you'll never have to replace it.

One important safety issue is the bar spacing. When you buy a parrot cage make sure that the bar spacing is smaller than you parrot's head. This way you can be sure that your pet's head won't get stuck between the bars.

Size - another important aspect for a parrot cage is it's size. The best thing you can do is to go to a pet store and buy the largest parrot cage that you can find in your budget range. A big parrot cage gives more freedom to your parrot and it will have a happier life. Keep in mind that the width of the parrot cage is more important than the height. Mostly, your parrot will fly from side to side.

The components of the parrot cage is the last but not least of the important aspects when buying parrot cages. Swing out feeders are a good way to feed your parrot especially the aggressive ones.

You can also buy food dishes for you parrot cage. This accessories also come in different styles and colors.

Try to find a parrot cage that has an entry door big enough to get the bird out easily. Remember that parrots are very smart so they can learn how to open the cage doors. If this happens then you will have to take some security measures and ad some new components so the parrot won't be able to open the door anymore.

Also try to look for a parrot cage with removable litter trays. This way You will clean the cage with no effort and your bird won't reach the old left over food.

In conclusion if you want a happy and healthy parrot you must provide him with a good home. If the parrot cage meets all he parrot care aspects that i mentioned above then you can be sure that your pet will live healthy in peace.

Looking for great information on parrot care problems? Then you must visit us at the best parrot care site on the Net and don't forget to check our parrot cages section.