Shih Tzu The Things You Do To Annoy Your Shih Tzu

Writen by Connie Limon

Did you ever think it might be a two way street with your shih tzu. Sure he/she annoys you sometimes, but just think about the things that might be annoying your shih tzu. Because dogs can't talk we usually have to make guesses about what they are thinking.

Just recently my Tessy had a litter of puppies. Early in the morning we received a call from a couple who had "just" lost their shih tzu. They were very upset and crying. This was about 6:00 a.m., I believe. Tessy had an available male that would fit this couple and so I was running about at this early morning hour getting the puppy ready for them to pick up. Suddenly I noticed Tessy giving me a very unusual kind of disgusting look. I felt like she was saying: "now just what do you think you are going to do with my boy?" "Whatever you are up to, Connie, I just don't approve of it and I am very suspicious of your actions right now." I just looked back at Tessy and said, "well Tessy, we can't keep all of them." Sometimes my girls do get upset at me when it is time to start placing their puppies. It is like they make me feel as if we should keep every one of their puppies and just live here as one big happy family. That is impossible. And I keep reminding them that this is just impossible. I keep a lot of our puppies just for that very reason. The moms enjoy them so much, I can't stand to take all of them away from the mother. I notice also that the mothers are happier when they have at least one of their offspring with them at all times.

Humans are very inconsistent. I am inconsistent. Dogs do best with structure and consistency. The best way (and I don't always do as I say) to avoid confusing your shih tzu is to set clear house rules from the beginning. So if you don't want to do things that annoy your shih tzu, and you don't want your shih tzu doing things annoy you, try to set some clear house rules with the entire family before the shih tzu arrvies. Be consistent and provide structure.

Some things you might want to address first are: Will the shih tzu be allowed on your furniture? Where will your shih tzu be sleeping? When and where will you feed your shih tzu. Where will the shih tzu use the bathroom (try to choose one spot and don't change the spot). If you can get all those things straightened out with him in the beginning, you have solved several problems for yourself and your shih tzu.

Try to be aware of the things that annoy your shih tzu and if you can successfully fix those things you do to annoy him, you might be pleasantly surprised to find the shih tzu does fewer things to annoy you as well.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Giving Your Pooch A Pedicure

Writen by Shannon Lynnes Heggem

Trimming toenails at home can be a simple endeavor with some proper instruction. Before tackling this task, it is important to have a veterinarian or a groomer give you a pedicure demonstration on your own dog's toenails. Doggie toenails vary extensively in shape and hardness, and each requires some skill in knowing where and how to make the cut.

After that, the biggest challenge is restraining the pet. Most dogs do not like to have their feet touched. The common mistake people make is trying to accomplish this feat sitting on the floor. But this makes it too easy for the pet to get away, and usually when we play with our pets we sit on the floor with them. Therefore they do not recognize this to be a serious task because they are not restrained properly.

It is important to put the dog up onto something, a counter, a table, a workbench, etc., so that movement is limited. Do not leave a pet unattended while he is up on a structure. If possible, it is best to have a helper to hold onto the dog while you clip the nails.

It is vital that the nail clippers be very sharp. Good quality nail trimmers can be purchased at stores for under ten dollars. The most common varieties are scissor and guillotine. Scissor types have blades that come together in a scissor-type mechanism. Guillotine clippers have an opening in which to place the nail, then the blade comes up from underneath. Smaller dogs' toenails respond well to both types, but large breeds have harder nails, making the scissor-type more effective.

Every toenail has a blood supply, much like our "quick," which must not be cut. The nail will bleed extensively if cut too short. If your dog's nails are white, the blood supply can be easily seen under the surface. The most effective method to trim toenails is to take off a small portion of the nail at a time, until you almost reach the quick. The nail should be clipped approximately 1/4 of an inch from this blood supply.

It is very important to recognize the shape of the toenail in order to properly cut it, which is where the demonstration mentioned earlier comes in handy. This is especially important if the dog's toenails are black, as the blood supply will be impossible to see. If any of your dog's nails have grown around to form a circle, please seek the assistance of a professional groomer or veterinarian to properly trim these nails.

If you happen to nick the blood supply during the pedicure and nail begins to bleed, do not panic. This type of bleeding can usually be controlled with products you have around the house. The best bet is a styptic pencil or a dab of styptic powder. These work great to control the bleeding, and can usually be found in the medicine cabinet.

If that isn't an option, flour and cornstarch are great substitutes. Dab a dime-sized amount into your palm, then drag the dog's toenail down and through the powder. This will form a little plug inside of the nail cavity by forcing some of the powder up into the nail where the blood is coming from. Apply some pressure onto the bottom of the nail holding the powder inside for a few minutes.

It is important to limit the dog's activity for a while afterward. If disturbed too soon, the nail will resume bleeding. If you've cut the quick severely and these methods do not work, you may need to make a quick trip to your vet to have the nail cauterized. But if you are careful this can be an easy task with some practice.

The nail trimming process can easily be performed at home by the pet owner with the proper tool and instruction, and of course, a fairly cooperative pooch! First, consult the professionals before attempting this endeavor. With proper preparation, this task can become part of the home grooming process for your canine pal.

© Shannon Lynnes Heggem (2006) Shannon Lynnes Heggem is a motivational speaker with a strong background in the pet care industry. In the 1990's, she established an upscale pet resort in Montana, and then founded the Fast Track Institute of Pet Careers, a vocational school focused on pet-related careers.

Shannon quickly became one of the top experts in the pet care industry. She was the first Certified Master Groomer in Montana, and went on to become a Certified Kennel Operator; only four people in the world actually hold both of these certification titles!

She amazingly survived a vicious Rottweiler attack in 1998, and since then has overcome incredible obstacles to continue her life's journey. Shannon has just launched a revolutionary new seminar series Learning About Pets Program focused on teaching pet owners vital knowledge to enhance their pets' vitality, health, and well-being! http://learningaboutpets.com/

Spring Cleaning Your Dog Tips And Suggestions To Keep Your Dog And Home Clean This Spring

Writen by Suzi Sevcik

Soon Spring will be in the air. The snow melts, the ground thaws, tiny buds start peaking through and you know it will soon be Summer. The old saying, April Showers bring May Flowers is true, but what they don't tell you is that April Showers also brings mud. Glorious mud. If you have larger dogs that enjoy a good romp outside, odds are good you also have dogs that enjoy tracking the mud through your house. Here are some tips to help keep your dogs clean & your house too!

First, start with a good grooming. You can either take your dog into a groomer, or do the basics yourself. A good brushing removes loose hair, stimulates the skin and just feels generally good to the dog. Once you're done brushing, trim as much hair on their paws as you can. You can either use a small scissor or clippers. The less surface area they have to track mud in, the better. Take some time to also clean their ears and trim their toenails. Once your pooch is cleaned up, grab the camera & take a few shots, if they're anything like mine, they'll only stay clean for a little while.

Once your dog is trimmed up, there are a few things you can do to keep the main areas of your house clean. When the dogs are coming in from outside you can keep a pail of water to dip their paws in & towel to wipe them dry or if you're lucky enough to have a porch or mud room just for the dogs you can keep them in that area until the mud is dry & just brush it off. This is a great opportunity to also throw in a little training if you have a multi-dog household. Since washing & drying paws can only be done one dog at a time, the other dogs can learn patience while being cleaned up.

If however you have a dog that insists on not only running through the mud, but also rolling in it, then your best bet is a garden hose. Grab your camera first & take some pictures - Usually it's pretty easy to get some shots of happy dogs. One note on rinsing your dog off, make sure you use warm water if it's still chilly outside. No one likes a cold bath and then dry them off promptly.

The warm days of Spring also give you a chance to air out any dog bedding & stuffed toys. While Rufus is outside tearing up the lawn, toss his toys & bedding in the wash & hang them on the line to air dry. He'll thank you for the fresh clean bed that night.

Springtime doesn't have to be hard on you or your house. With a few simple steps you can minimize the mud and enjoy time with your dog.

Suzi Sevcik is photography buff & owner of PetLabels.com, a company that produces high quality, full color address labels with your pet's photo on them. For more information, go to: http://PetLabels.com or email her at suzi@petlabels.com.

Teaching A Dog To Come When Called

Writen by Anthony Lee

Every dog deserves a name. It will be silly not to give it one because someone else in the neighborhood might lay claim to that pet.

But there should be more done than just giving it a name. The owner should teach the dog to come when called so that the relationship between both will be stronger.

Here are a few tips that will make the dog come when called;

1. Dogs are easily distracted by sounds or the presence of other people. The person should start the lesson by bringing the pet into the room so there will no distractions. The animal must be placed a few away and once will come forward when called.

Many think this is easy but it is not. Perhaps the dog wanted to play that is why it went forward. To make sure the lesson has been learned, another thing that can be taught is making the animal stay put until it is called.

These are entirely two different lessons but both work with each other. The only way to strengthen this trick will be to offer reward in the form of biscuits.

2. The distance can now be extended from a few feet to perhaps the next room. The canine will probably follow the owner so the pet has to be reminded again to stay put until the name has been called.

3. Once this has been perfected, it is time to try this in a larger area such as the backyard.

This should be repeated daily until the dog has learned only to come when called. Some pets will just run when the owner comes home but order must be enforced so no one will trip or fall when it is inside the home.

The individual can also use hand gestures to make the canine come forward. Other trainers have been known to use both which have also worked in teaching this lesson.

4. It is only when these steps don't work that some drastic measures should be taken. This includes putting a leash around the animal and pulling on it when it is instructed to come. This will take some time so the person must be patient when teaching this lesson.

Teaching a dog to approach is something that anyone can do with a dog. Dog lovers should remember that it takes time especially to train a domesticated animal.

This doesn't matter if it is a simple command to a more complex one because it will take time for the pet to understand the words that are said.

To learn more tips and cool tricks to teach your dog, please visit http://www.dog-training-techniques.info/

Electronic Dog Doors

Writen by Thomas Morva

Because you maintain a hectic calendar, you probably have to leave your dog at home alone on many an occasion. The good thing is that dogs act as guards who keep strangers and intruders away from your property. There have been innumerable cases of burglary, however, where the dog doors were used as the point of entry. The plain hanging screen dog doors are major attractions for burglars as they prove easy to be opened. The bad thing is your poor dog needs to get in and out of the house when you're not there.

To keep this from happening to you, buy electronic dog doors instead. Electronic dog doors are much safer because they can only be operated through the use of electronic keys. These electronic keys can be placed on the collars of your pets so that only it can gain access to the electronic passageway.

Electronic dog doors are endowed with a directional sensing system that determines the distance of the dog from the door. Information regarding the direction that the dog is going is sent to the dog door system, so it will not open when the dog is just walking around, sleeping, sitting or eating nearby. The door is only unlocked when the pet is aiming at the door's exact direction.

Electronic dog doors are the best to use. With such a door, you can be assured that unwanted guests can never enter your home, and that all your belongings – including your dog – are always safe and secure.

Dog Doors provides detailed information on Dog Doors, Electronic Dog Doors, Patio Dog Doors, Screen Dog Doors and more. Dog Doors is affiliated with Soft Dog Crates.

For The Love Of Pets

Writen by Sandra Valente

Growing up on a farm back home in Portugal I was always exposed to many animals. We had chickens, rabbits, goats, pigs, cats and dogs. Now living in Canada I cannot have as many pets but I can still enjoy having some.

I currently have two cats with five new acquisitions, a dog and a fish.

My son changes the names on the cats almost on a daily basis so it's hard to keep track of their names … don't ask me I don't know what they are today. The kittens are just a week old and it's always an amazing experience with the cat having the kittens, one was breach but managed to be perfectly fine. The kittens are now starting to open their eyes and have their own little personality… pretty soon they will be running around the house and driving me crazy! It will be time soon to start finding homes for the little one's.

My dog Leah is a black Lab very friendly but still a little to crazy for a three and a half year old puppy, but we love her. I always wonder when she will settle down…. stop eating the furniture and so on.

We had a hampster "Speedy" she was so cute and friendly I use to put her in her ball and the dog would roll her around the house… not for long or the hampster would get very dizzy. Speedy passed away a year and half ago and we decided to try our luck with a Hermet crab … not such a good idea… it only lived a week.

My son would love to get a lizard but there is just no way, I would not like to hold or feed it. I could handle it being vegetarian but other than that it's a big no. It would remind me too much of Fear Factor and the bugs.

One day I would like to have a Monkey .. I don't know what I would call him, but I sure think they are cute .. I would dress him in a suit like the one on my company logo… they are just so adorable. You should check them out. My Monkey's are Sales Lead Monkeys, pretty smart they are.

Pets are a lot of work but bring joy to your life and can keep you company when you are alone.

Sandra Valente is a pet lover. Come to her website to see the sales lead monkeys in action... Pretty smart, they are!

Five Snake Care Tips For Beginners

Writen by V. Berba Velasco

If you're looking for an unusual, eye-catching pet, it's hard to go wrong with a snake. They're exotic enough to catch people's interest, yet hardy enough to require minimal care. Nevertheless, uninformed first-time owners tend to make some basic mistakes, some of which can be quite costly. Here are some simple tips that can help ensure the health of the snake and prevent a lot of aggravation as well.

1. First, take note of how large your snake can grow to be. Most North American varieties only grown to be about four feet long, which is a reasonable size. Don't let a pet store employee talk you into buying a Burmese python, since these critters can grow to be over thirty feet long, and will require huge cages and tremendous amounts of food. (And before you ask… No, most zoos will not accept these as donations.)

2. Don't scrimp on cage size. A cage that is too small can be very stressful and unhealthy to your pet. Pet store clerks will sometimes try to sell you caging that is inadequate in size, so don't fall into this trap. For adequate comfort, the combined length and width of the cage should at least match the snake's length. Snakes can grow fairly quickly, so don't forget to take that into account as well!

3. Do find out how docile that particular specimen is. Most non-venomous North American snakes are fairly docile, but if you're a first-time keeper, you should probably make sure that your prospective pet can be handled easily.

4. Make sure that you select a pet with a hearty appetite. Ball pythons, for example, make great pets—but they are notoriously finicky eaters. Corn snakes make great starter pets because they are exceedingly docile and aren't picky about what they eat.

5. Snakes—indeed, any reptile—can potentially spread salmonella. The risk involved is very small, but one should still play safe. This is especially true when young children or people with compromised immune systems are involved. Do read up on reptile hygiene and salmonella before purchasing your pet.

Obviously, these tips only constitute some basic advice. I recommend that all prospective owners should read up on snake care in general, as well as the specific needs of the species that they plan to purchase. A little bit of basic research can prevent a great deal of aggravation in the future.

About the Author:

V. Berba Velasco Jr., Ph.D. is a senior electrical and software engineer at Cellular Technology Ltd (http://www.immunospot.com, http://www.elispot-analyzers.de, http://www.elispot.cn). The neighborhood children have referred to him as the "Crocodile Hunter" though, due to his impressive menagerie of snakes, lizards and tarantulas.

Give Your Dog The Right Training

Writen by Michael Russell

An untrained dog is a direct reflection on you, the pet owner, and how much you care about the dog. In fact a dog that is not trained becomes a nuisance to the owner and the environment. You can probably give to your dog basic obedience training, i.e. teaching it to respond to simple commands. Whether it's a puppy or a fully-grown dog you can teach them with a little effort on your part.

Dogs are intelligent animals. They have been trained to do specific tasks like sniffing out drugs and explosives and performing search and rescue missions. All these are possible by the efforts of the dog owner. But how can you train your dog to obey you?

First, you need to know about the genetic make up of your dog. Like wolves, dogs are hierarchy conscious. They instinctively gravitate toward living in pack under a leader. Your family is your dog's pack and it needs to understand that you are the leader.

Even as a puppy, your dog can learn that it is subordinate to you. How? Try holding its gaze with your eyes until it looks away. Also, rubbing the dog's belly while on its back is a good exercise, as this puts it in a submissive position. If your dog is being a nuisance and does not stop when you say 'No', try ignoring it or leaving the room.

When your dog responds to your commands, it is acknowledging that you are in charge. If you, as the owner, do not establish your position of leadership, your pet may conclude that it is equal or superior to you and this might affect its behavior.

To teach your dog basic commands, you will need a collar, a leash and plenty of patience. For successful training, you will have to follow the steps below:

a. Give a simple, one-word command, b. demonstrate the desired action and c. immediately give praise when the action is done. Your tone of voice is more important than the word you use. A command should be given in an affirmative tone and praise be given in a happy, affectionate tone.

Physical punishment, such as hitting or kicking, is not necessary. Simply say 'No' in a sharp tone, prolonging the vowel, so that the dog will know that you are displeased with its performance. A dog is intelligent enough to know when you are rewarding or reprimanding.

If anything more drastic is needed, you might grasp the dog by the scruff of its neck and shake it lightly while saying 'No'. Reprimands should be given during or immediately following the undesirable behavior. Remember, a dog cannot discern why it is being scolded if scolding occurs minutes or hours after the act. Neither does it understand why a certain action is acceptable on one occasion but not on another, so be consistent.

Training of a dog is a continuous process, but the nucleus for all obedience is the command 'Sit!' if your dog understands this basic command it becomes quite easy to train your dog in the other basic commands. For example, you can tell your dog to sit when it begins to jump on visitors. To teach your dog to sit, put the leash on it and give the command while pushing down on its hindquarters and gently pulling its head up with the leash. Give praise immediately. Repeat these steps until the dog obeys the command on its own.

To teach your dog to remain in the position, use the command 'Stay!' while standing in front and putting your hand out with the palm facing flat toward the dog. If the dog moves, say 'No' and place it back into position. Repeat the command and praise the dog when it stays sitting for a short period. Gradually increase the time it sit and then the distance between you and the dog as it responds to the command.

The best way to teach your dog to come to you is to use a long leash and give a gentle tug while calling your dog's name and giving the command 'Come!'. Back up as the dog moves towards you and continue to praise. Soon it will respond to your call without being prompted by the leash. Never use the word 'Come' for a negative reason, such as to reprimand. Your dog must learn that responding to 'come' will bring pleasurable results, whether praise or a food treat. If you lose your patience while teaching this command, your dog will learn that coming is unpleasant and will be avoided.

You can teach your dog to walk by your side without pushing ahead or lagging behind. To do this without stress, use a link-chain training collar and a short leash. With the dog on your left, give the command 'Heel!' and step out with the left foot. If your dog attempts to push ahead or lag back, give a quick, sharp jerk on the leash and repeat the command. Give praise for compliance.

Remember, a dog is a social and intelligent animal. Long period of confinement can lead to excessive barking, hyperactivity and destructive behavior. But with training, your dog can become a delightful, loyal companion instead of a nuisance.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dog Training

Veterinary Care Choosing The Best Vet For Your Dog

Writen by Lisa Pallardy

Choosing a vet for your dog is one of the most important decisions you'll make for him, so it's important to take your time and make an informed decision.

Referrals from other pet-owners is a good place to start when looking for a vet. Even though your friends may have different expectations than you, at least you'll have a list of good prospects to check out.

The first thing to consider is how you feel once you're in the examining room. It doesn't matter how many diplomas the vet has, or how many credentials are framed and hanging on the walls of his office. What really matters is that your dog -- and YOU -- feel comfortable. Make sure you can communicate well with your veterinarian, and that you feel comfortable asking any questions at all regarding your dog's health. If you feel that your veterinarian isn't taking the time to answer your questions in terms you can understand, it's probably time to look for a new vet.

Ask what types of services are available at his/her particular clinic. It's also important that you have a number to call in case of after-hours emergencies. If you plan to purchase pet health insurance, make sure the clinic you're at accepts it.

Some vets consider some vaccinations essential, while others don't. And some vets have a particular schedule for vaccinations, while you may have strong feelings about the extent to which your dog should be vaccinated. Be sure you and your potential veterinarian agree (or agree to disagree) on this important topic.

Once you've decided on the veterinarian you want to work with, don't be a stranger. Your puppy will be visiting the clinic often, since most vaccination programs start at about 6-8 weeks of age and continue every few weeks until your pup is 3-4 months old.

Basic vaccinations, like the one for rabies, are absolutely necessary; however, depending on where you live, others may be optional.

Here's a short list of suggested vaccinations, but we recommend checking with your veterinarian for the best advice for your particular breed and age of dog:

* Rabies * Parvovirus * Distemper

* Canine Hepatitus * Coronavirus * Parainfluenza

* Leptospirosis * Canine Cough * Lyme Disease

It's also extremely important to protect your pet from heartworm. This is a potentially fatal infection that is caused by a parasite spread by mosquitoes, so it is simple to prevent. Be sure to talk with your vet about protecting your pet from this dangerous, life-threatening infection.

Lisa Pallardy is the owner of http://www.BarkTalk.com an interactive site for dog lovers to find articles and information on dog training and care, post photos of their pets, and talk with other dog-lovers. She is also the mother of 6 children and lover of 3 dogs. In her spare time, she makes greeting cards from children's artwork at http://www.MyLittleRembrandt.com

For more articles like this one on dog care and dog training, or for links to resources where you can purchase dog supplies, visit http://www.BarkTalk.com

4 Ways In Which You Can Spoil Your Dog Rotten

Writen by Mark Eckenrode

You spoil your pooch as close to rotten as you can get, don't you? Hey, who doesn't? It's almost impossible not to, with those adorable, big, beautiful eyes, the little lashes, the soft fur just behind the ears… they almost beg to be spoiled. But what can you really do? There are all of those new doggie day spas, doggie day cares, and other doggie luxury services, but how often can you really afford things like that? I mean, most people rarely have enough cash in the bank to get themselves a surprise manicure and pedicure, much less spring for their pups to get a quadripedicure. You give her a few scratches behind the ears, rub her belly, and maybe give her a massage and splurge on some gourmet treats, but you have to pay rent and eat each month. Your budget just doesn't allow for constant spoiling of your dog…

1. Or does it?

You can make the shampoos, fragrances, and skin conditioners the doggie day spas use whenever you want for a lot less money than you think. Wouldn't your pup love to have an at-home spa treatment? Give these recipes a shot the next time you want to pamper that pup:

2. Aromatic Dry Shampoo

250 ml (1 cup) cornmeal
250 ml (1 cup) baby/talcum powder
5 ml (1 tsp) rosemary
5 ml (1 tsp) lavender

Combine all of the ingredients in a large, airtight container and let them sit overnight. This will allow the rosemary and lavender to scent the other two ingredients lightly. When ready, sprinkle generously over your dog and brush it into her fur by working your fingers against the lay of her coat. Once it's worked in thoroughly, use your fingers or a hard rubber brush to massage her coat in the direction of the fur but working in circles. Brush until the mixture is completely out of the coat. Your baby will smell great, the powder and cornmeal help absorb excess oil and dirt to clean her, and she won't have had to go through the trauma of having a full bath! How great is that?

3. Herbal Shampoo

470 ml (2 cups) purified water
10 ml (1 tbsp) rosemary
10 ml (1 tbsp) orange zest
30 ml (2 tbsp) chamomile
10 ml (1 tbsp) lavender oil
120 ml (1/2 cup) baby shampoo

Bring water to a boil, then remove from heat. Add all of the herbs, cover the dish, and allow it to steep overnight. Strain the mixture and stir in the oils, then gently add the shampoo until well-mixed. This shampoo should be kept refrigerated for freshness when not in use, but use about 2 tablespoons every time you wash your dog for a sweet-smelling, great treat for both of you. Don't forget to give her a little massage while you're rubbing it in!

4. Lemon Flea Dip

3 lemons
940 ml (1 quart) water
60 ml (1/4 cup) baking soda
5 ml (1 tsp) herbal shampoo

Cut the lemons into eighths while bringing the water to a rolling boil. Add the lemons, boil for one hour, then cover and let the mixture steep overnight. Strain the solution then add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Warm to a tepid temperature before applying. To spoil your pup with the application, dip a sponge into the water and drizzle it slowly over her coat, then use your fingers to work it in using slow, deliberate circles focusing on points like the hips and shoulders. Give her a good massage – she deserves it! This shampoo uses citrus oil to help repel fleas, but the warm water and baking soda also help to soothe any existing irritations she may have.

See? Spoiling your dog is much easier and less expensive than you think, and I've compiled 101 Ways to Spoil Your Dog for Under $10 for just that reason. Any dog owner knows how hard it is to resist spoiling their pup, and now there's no reason to resist! Spoiling her can be as easy as talking to her… you just might not realize the impact simple things have on her. Give the book a read, then try some of the ideas you'll find. You'll be amazed at how much closer and more bonded with your dog you feel!

Mark Eckenrode is a lover of dogs, his own is named Ryker. Mark is also the creator of an amazing website that offers free step-by-step tips on how to spoil your dog, cook up delicious dog recipes, insights into health, and communicating with your dog…

"Finally! A Quick and Easy Way For YOU to Learn Exactly What Your Dog is Looking For… Without Being a Vet, Visiting an Animal Shrink, or Paying Outrageous Prices for Dog Toys!"

http://www.DogMatters.com

What Is A Doberman Club

Writen by Randy Savage

A Doberman club usually comprises a group of people who have been brought together by their common love for a canine - the Doberman Pinscher. Most clubs are recognized and have been registered in the regional level. The main aim of any Doberman club is to provide information. Driven by love and nothing else, the club members encourage people to adopt Dobes and help new owners to understand their pets and love them accordingly. So any club can be looked upon as a large repository of correct and practical information.

The membership in the Doberman club is open to veterans and newcomers alike. Many of the members will include people who are involved in breeding, training and other activities of the Dobes. Many clubs also sponsor purely social events that give all Doberman owners a chance to get to know each other and their dogs. The dogs are also given an opportunity to play and have fun.

Generally, club meetings are held at least once a month and sometimes even as often as twice a week. Most club meetings will include at least one educational lecture or session that aims at shedding light on one trait or facet of the lovable Dobes.

Social activities that are designed to include dogs are also a major focus of Doberman clubs. The entire family is usually invited so that the dogs can have fun in the unfamiliar surroundings while they are in the midst of the people they love. Many of these activities are a test of the pet's training and obedience skills. Clubs encourage owners to train their pets and provide valuable information to owners who face some of the most trying problems with their own dogs. Clubs also provide a forum for dogs that have become prime stock, by hosting shows and other competitions where the best dogs are appreciated.

In a nutshell, a Doberman club can be looked upon as a support center that has all the most relevant information about this gentle breed of dog. Ranging from shelters, rescue homes, adoption, training, dietary needs and vaccines to old age, health problems and the latest treatments, Doberman clubs are the most valuable storehouses of info.

Brought to you by: http://www.my-doberman.com. Dedicated to the Doberman Pinscher - Provides information, pictures, dog training resources, dog supplies and more.

Toxic Foods For Dogs

Writen by Joe Gajda

Part of a puppy's experience growing up is the wonderful world of sights, smells, sounds, and most importantly, tastes. To your young pup, just about anything tastes good. From your old gym shoes, to the block of chocolate you left on the counter, if it's available, your dog is probably chewing on it right now. Let us leave puppies aside and talk about dogs of all ages now.

Your dog is not human — it fails to distinguish between right or wrong, good or bad, unless you train it to. At the time of this writing, my puppy will stick his head into any garbage bin, take out whatever looks good and start chewing at it. Left- over food at parks and playgrounds also seem like free tasty snacks. However, it is absolutely important that you monitor what is going into your dog's mouth at all times, because what you don't know — can kill your dog.

A list of some important things you should never feed your dog include:

Chocolate
Chocolate is toxic for dogs, as it contains caffeine and theobromine. After a dog eats chocolate, sickness, vomiting, and in extreme cases, even death are possible. If you find your dog eating chocolate, take it away and consult a veterinarian immediately.

Onions and Garlic
Garlic, and especially onions, contain thisoulphate, which is also toxic to dogs. Vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, and general illness are usually the symptomps associated if thisoulphate has been digested. Contact a veterinarian immediately.

Chicken Bones
Chicken bones have a wonderful tendency to get stuck in a dog's throat or the root of its mouth. Chicken bones also contain a sharp piece known as the splinter which is extremely sharp and can cut or cause your dog's windpipe to become stuck.

Medication
All medication should be kept away from dogs. Dogs usually love the smell and sweet taste of medication. It is not unusual for a dog to chew through a bottle of dropped medication and eat the contents. Aspirin is one exception, which can actually help ease pain such as arthritis. Before ever considering giving your dog Aspirin for pain, consult your veteranarian.

Antifreeze
Antifreeze contains ethylene glycol, which is absolute lethal — even in small doses. Keep all pets away from an antifreeze spill, as the sweet smell and taste is attractive to anyone around with a sensitive enough nose to pick it up. If your dog consumes any amount of antifreeze, rush him immediately to the veteranarian.

Joe Gajda and his family own 2 mixed breed dogs and operate the dog owners resource site http://www.dogtwist.com

Proper Training For Dogs

Writen by Huzef Saifee

Thus Dogs training needs to begin at the very early stage when the tender puppies are welcomed at your home. The training could be successfully started by teaching them key words like their names, yes and no to make them react according to your stimuli. These days group classes for dogs training are available all over and skilled trainers provide training to them. So if affordable send them to these classes.

Dogs' training demands you to be very meticulous in planning lesson programme for them. It should not be too rigorous for tinier pups that are in formative stage of their lives. The famous proverb is fit to quote here that slowly and steady wins the race. Learning load could be gradually increased as the dogs mature. But there are certain dogs that take time to attain maturity so more dogs training is required in their case.

Taking dogs out on a walk is not only beneficial to their physical fitness but also for their behavioural customisation. Outing brings them in contact with other breeds as much as to different surroundings which require them to react more seemingly. If no outing is provided they might receive shock at sudden encounters with those breeds and set ups and eventually cause or receive damages.

Most dogs training programmes include playing with good, lasting and chemical safe chewy toys which keep them amusing for longer span of time and refreshe them when feeling fed up of loneliness. This at the same time inculcates in them a habit not to chew costly foot-wears or other leather made households.

Teaching dogs how to greet is an important item of Dogs training. They need to learn not to leap up to the visitors with their dirty paws leaving dirty and filthy impressions on their dry-cleaned cloths. Therefore one should not applause his puppy when it jumps at others rather fire it. But as and when it keeps itself footed on ground one should never miss opportunity to appreciate it. This encourages it and breeds love.

Dogs' training also emphasises to teach your puppy to go out to ease its bowls and not to mess in the living rooms. You need to define a place that it will use as its toilet and ask it to move there as soon as you think it is feeling uneasy. Initially you have to watch it at its timings but eventually it will learn to go there by itself.

Hi I am Huzef, I am an author plus webdesigner so for more information regarding Dog's Training surely visit me at http://1-dogtraining.blogspot.com.

Dog Fleas

Writen by Elizabeth Morgan

Dog fleas are quite similar to cat fleas, both in appearance and behavior, and just like cat fleas, dog fleas can also breed in both cats and dogs. Both species are so similar biologically, that for practical purpose they are usually defined and talked about under the same heading. Dog and cat fleas are the most common species of fleas found in and around homes. Most of the time, pets like cats and dogs are infested with fleas without their human owners knowing about it. But if there are large numbers of fleas on the pets, humans can't help but notice, and often suffer the affliction along with their pets!

The female flea is generally 2.5 mm long, with the male flea being slightly smaller. The combs of a dog flea consist of 8 pairs of spines. The larvae of a dog flea is double the length of the adult and it generally feeds on particles of dry blood, excrement, and various organic substances collected in corners of infested premises. The infestation of the dog fleas can be easily identified in the sleeping quarters of the cats and dogs, by the presence of a salt-and-pepper like substance formed of the grayish larvae and white eggs of these fleas. These fleas also feed off many other animals, apart from cats, dogs and humans.

In order to prevent dog fleas from infesting on your pets or in your premises, you have to be careful to maintain the cleanliness of your pets and premises. This can be achieved by regularly using pest control, shampooing the pets, and vacuuming the house thoroughly.

Fleas provides detailed information about fleas defined, cat fleas, dog fleas, flea bites and more. Fleas is the sister site of Pitbulls Info.

Facts About Rottweilers

Writen by Kathryn ONeill

Looking for some quick Rottweiler dog facts? Here's a quick rundown of basics facts about Rottweilers.

Vital Stats:

Colour: Black with distinctive tan markings over cheeks, muzzle, chest and legs as well as over both eyes

Coat: straight, coarse and of medium length. Rottweilers are double coated and tend to "blow out" their undercoats twice a year.

Size: Medium-large, Males range from 95-135 lbs, Females tend to be smaller from 80-110 lbs

Types: American Rottweilers tend to be taller and slimmer through face and body whereas German Rottweilers tend to be shorter, stockier and more muscular.

History:

It is thought that the ancestors of this breed (a mastiff type dog) originated in the Roman Empire and that many of them accompanied the Roman army over the Alps as the loyal protector and drover of cattle that were used as the army's food source.

According to historians, the next appearance of this mastiff type dog was in the beautiful little town of Rottweil nestled in the southern mountainous region of Germany, where the Roman armies had left them as they continued their travels.

The Rottweiler was used by farmers to pull carts in their daily milk deliveries, as well as to help herd the cattle. Butchers used these dogs to guard their down-stairs shops during times of rest and to carry pouches of money to the banks.

The Rottweiler then grew in popularity with law enforcement agencies and eventually as guard dogs in domestic settings.

Rottweilers today excel in such sports as herding, Schutzhund, carting, agility and flyball. They are also proving to be outstanding therapy dogs and recognized as excellent service dogs for the physically challenged.

The exceptional characteristics and versatility of the Rottweiler has made it the 2nd most popular breed in America for the past two years.

The Rottweiler dog is loyal, intelligent and desires to please. They are often described by owners as 'characters', 'gentle bears' and display a fun-loving sense of humor. However they are a working dog and as such are happiest when they are busy or working on a task.

Rottweilers can also be aloof and stubborn at times. They are known to be extremely protective of their owners' possessions and property, which is why they are often used as guard dogs.

If a Rottweiler is not well-socialized and trained properly in obedience, they can become a bully and this can lead to other behavioral problems.

Health Concerns:

Hip and/or Elbow Dysplasia - a malformation of the hip and/or elbow joint which can cause serious problems for the dog and expense for the owner. Both are thought to be hereditary which is why you should ask the breeder about the history of your Rottweiler.

Bloat - stomach swells from gas, fluid or both. It becomes serious when the stomach distends and then flips over, causing torsion. This is caused by over-eating, drinking large amounts of water after eating, and/or vigorous exercise after a meal.

Help prevent bloat by feeding several small meals a day, crating the dog for several hours after eating, and monitoring water intake.

Cancer - becoming more common in Rottweilers, with bone cancer the most common type. Investigate any suspicious lumps, moles, sores or unexplained lameness IMMEDIATELY.

Heart Diseases- most common is the is sub-aortic stenosis which can be mild or result in sudden death.

Where To Find A Rottweiler/Rottweiler Puppy:

1) A Reputable Breeder: A reputable breeder will be happy to answer any questions you have about the Rottweiler line and health. They will NOT push you into buying their dogs, but will probably be more concerned to see if YOU are suitable for THEIR puppies.

They will, if possible, allow you to meet the parents and spend some time with the puppy of your choice before deciding to buy.

2) A Rottweiler Rescue: Most, if not all, Rottweiler rescues screen the rottis that they take in to make sure they are trainable and will adjust well in normal domestic settings.

A Rottweiler rescue is an excellent place to find an older Rottweiler if training a rottweiler puppy is not your preference.

This is also a chance to make a difference in the life of a Rottweiler who has probably been mistreated and abused through no fault of it's own!

If you are interested in learning more facts about Rottweilers or training tips, visit Rottweiler Training:

http://www.RottweilerTraining.homestead.com

Kathryn O'Neill is a Rottweiler lover, owner and chief editor for Rottweiler Training . For more tips and information about training your Rottweiler, check out:

http://www.RottweilerTraining.homestead.com

Chinchillas How They Make A Good Pet

Writen by Gary Prestwich

Chinchillas make great pets. Unlike other small animals, the chinchilla's lifespan is about fifteen years. That's great for the folks that really get attached to their small pets. Chinchillas are very small, and can easily be kept in smaller spaces. Your child can have years of enjoyment from them.

Caring for chinchillas is relatively easy as well. You can get a cage for them and use woodchips, as you would for other small caged animals. You can also let your chinchilla out of the cage, but be careful to watch them as they love to hide and can be difficult to find!

One of the other nice aspects about pet chinchillas is the fact that they sleep during the day, making them nice pets for children who can play with them when they get home from school in the afternoon, or for adults who work during the day.

Pet chinchilla's are fun to play with. They can be housetrained, too, although it might be difficult, so watch them if they are out of their house. Also be sure to keep them away from dogs and cats. They are excellent pets for apartments that don't allow larger animals, too.

Your chinchilla likes to have hiding places in its house, so provide things like clay pots for them to sleep in. They need that nesting box, so make sure their cage is large enough for it. All wood used in a chinchilla's environment must be non-treated, because your pet chinchilla is, after all, a rodent. They like to chew!

Chinchillas are generally clean animals, but they do need some grooming in the form of dust baths to keep their fur nice and soft. Chinchilla dust is available at most pet stores or through your veterinarian's office. Let your chinchilla enjoy a dust bath a few times a week. Be sure to follow the directions on the label, but it's quite easy. As for more aesthetic grooming, you can get special combs at the pet store for your chinchilla.

When you get your pet chinchilla, it's best to get a young one, so you have a chance to let your chinchilla get accustomed to being held. They might nip if you scare them, so acclimatize them to their new home and their new owner as soon as possible. They are soft and cuddly, and when you start interacting with them early, you'll have a loyal pet that will bring you years and years of enjoyment. For the young or old, a chinchilla makes a wonderful pet, that is easy to care for, and will be a friend for a long time. Visit ChinchillaGuide.Com

Chinchillas make great pets. Unlike other small animals, the chinchilla's lifespan is about fifteen years. That's great for the folks that really get attached to their small pets. Find out more at http://www.chinchillaguide.com

Shih Tzu Breeding Equipment

Writen by Connie Limon

The main thing is to be prepared! Have all your supplies ready before the big day arrives, preferably no less than one week prior to the due date. Formerly dogs whelped just wherever, in the barn, under the porch. Today's breeder, however, has a real vested interest in their pregnant shih tzu, one of time, money, energy and emotional investment. Breeding shih tzu is a big, big job and full of labor. If you are passionate about breeding shih tzu, however, it all boils down to labors of love!

Care involves meeting nutritional and emotional support and detailed attention to the environment you provide during whelping and later. Not only is the whelping place of utmost importance to the physical and emotional well-being of your shih tzu, but also the "layette" you assemble to assist in the whelping and care of the puppies is of equal importance.

The whelping box is by far the largest and most obvious piece of equipment you must have. Cardboard boxes just won't do. There are manufactured whelping boxes you can purchase. You "can" use plastic storage bins (these are very easily cleaned). I like using a wood box the size of a child's toy box. I have mine special made to a specific size for each of my shih tzu. I have mine painted with a durable paint I can disenfect easily. I like to put some colorful decales of some sort for decoration on outside the box. I have mostly pastel colors like baby blue, baby yellow, baby pink. The wood boxes are warmer in my opinion. I use regular heating pads in the boxes under the babies for extra warmth. These boxes can also be used as sleeping boxes of which most of my shih tzu adore. They can be made very cozy with soft blankets and homemade quilts, which my shih tzu also adore. The box should only be big enough for the mother to fully stretch out in. Bigger is not better. Most of my boxes measure outside 21 inches wide and 31 inches long. Inside the box is 18 inches wide and 29 inches long. I have a trim on the bottom that is 22 inches wide and 32 inches long. Whatever whelping box you use should be sturdy and should not rock, should allow the mother to climb in and out easily. A solution of Clorox bleach and water is a good disinfectant to use on the whelping box daily.

The whelping box should be ready for occupancy about two weeks prior to the litter's due date. Show the mother her box as her personal territory. Encourage her to sleep in it before delivery. Let her get use to getting in and out of the box. A shih tzu unacustomed to her whelping box may refuse to use it. She may try to carry her babies off somewhere else. Exterior doors to the whelping box area should remain closed for the mother and puppies privacy. The environment should be draft-free and kept a consistent temperature.

The area you make for whelping should be large enough for the box, her food and water and a place to occasionally rest away from her puppies.

Be prepared to give up a portion of your home for no less than three weeks. My moms and puppies have a permanent spot reserved especially for them until delivery of the puppies. Ideally, do not move the mother and puppies from the area where puppies are whelped. Once puppies are able to try and climb out of the box, they can be moved along with mother to another location if you desire.

Expect your life to be disrupted when you and your shih tzu mother are raising a litter. Most puppies arrive at odd hours, seldom during the day, most often in the middle of the night. You need to be present for each whelping, but especially for the whelping of a first time mom. Without you, mom may become confused or excited and scatter or neglect some of the puppies.

You will need a separate puppy box. Small vinyl shoe boxes work well for this. Have it lined with a heating pad and a soft, flannel baby blanket. After the mother has whelped her second puppy, remove the first and place in the puppy box. Sometimes this is hard to do. Shih Tzu mothers are very possessive of their babies. It is important to warm up newborn puppies as soon as possible and the mother's whelping box will most likely be cold and full of whelping fluids. It is more important now to get the babies as warm as possible. You can place another baby receiving blanket over the puppy box to make an incubator-type atmosphere and hold in the heat. If puppies settle down and do not cry, the temperature is just right. There will be plenty of time for them to be with mom after all puppies are whelped. If time in between puppies seems to be long, you can place the puppies back with mom to nurse if they will. This helps stimulate the labor pains of the mother and to deliver the next puppies. If puppies refuse to nurse, place them back in the warming box. Change the whelping box blankets or towels after the 3rd puppy is whelped. Mom will need the smell of her newly whelped puppies to wake up her instincts to continue deliveries, cutting cords and tending to her offspring.

The heating pads should be square or slightly rectangular, be waterproof, have a protective cover and be free of any strings or ribbons. Heating pads ust have a variety of temperature settings and an automatic turn-off switch for safety. Have this puppy box warmed and ready to receive the newborns. As mentioned before if puppies are sleeping quietly, the temperature is just right. If the puppies move about crying, they are either too hot or too cold. If the puppies are bobbing their heads and crying, they are hungry. Attempt to place them on the mother to nurse. As soon as all puppies are whelped, place clean linens in the whelping box and all the puppies back with mom to nurse. Place the heating pad in the box with mom and puppies.

You may also need the following items: sterile hemostats or sterilized blunt-end scissors, heavy sterile silk sewing thread, dental floss or heavy sterile silk sutures, petroleum or lubricating jelly, several pairs of sterile surgical gloves, a rubber pediatric bulb syring, surgical antiseptic scrub for your hands. Ink pen and paper.

The well-equipped "doggie midwife" will also have on hand a tube feeder and syringe, and some puppy milk replacer.

Please rate this article.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Coupons for shih tzu puppies and products are offered to subscribers. Updates of available puppies. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Make Your Home Catsafe How To Keep Your Cat Happy And Healthy

Writen by Niall Kennedy

* Lock things up that could cause harm

* Keep the washer/dryer door closed at all times

* Honk the car horn before starting it up

* Use fire carefully

* Keep all upstairs windows closed or screened

* Store string away tidily

* Keep floors free of small things

* Be constantly aware of what your cat is doing

Curiosity gets most cats in trouble at some point in their lives. As your cat's caregiver, keeping her safe sometimes seems like a "mission impossible." With a little foresight and action, however, you can create a "home, safe home."

When you're trying to provide the best home possible for your cat, it pays to think like her. Put on some old clothes and get down on hands and knees and take a look around. Is that shiny crystal vase on the shelf a tempting target? Remember that cats will jump onto shelves and tables.

That dangling drapery cord would be fun to leap and grab. What's in this big pot? In case you need help identifying what might catch a cat's eye, here's a list of common household items that are often the cause of cat injuries:

* Roach and ant traps

* electric and phone cords

* cigarettes in ashtrays

* open doors and windows

* rubber bands

* housecleaning chemicals

* lit candles

* Christmas trees

* ornaments

* paperclips

* rocking chairs

* uncovered toilets

* trash cans

* human medications

* chocolate

* anti-freeze

* unattended boiling pots

* electric stove burners

* plastic bags.

Cats find plants irresistible as playthings. They love to pounce on them and shred them with both their claws and teeth. Although they are carnivores -meat eaters-they sometimes eat plant material. For these reasons, it's important to make sure the plants in and around your home won't pose a health risk. The following are some common house and landscape plants that are toxic to cats:

* Philodendron English ivy

* caladium dieffenbachia "elephant ear"

* poinsettia

* mistletoe

* azaleas

* holly

* berries

* boxwood

* wisteria

* hydrangea

* oleander

* chinaberry tree

If you live in an area prone to natural disasters, keep an emergency pet supply kit with your own. Include a week's worth of food as well as any medication your cat takes on a regular basis. A photo of your pet is also good to keep with your emergency supplies, in case you are separated from your cat during the event, you'll have a way to get the word out to locate her.

A collar with an identification tag is one of those things that you might never need, but will wish you had if you need it and don't. Even if your cat is strictly and indoor pet, the unexpected could happen. A door or window is left ajar, or a natural disaster creates an opening in your home through which your frightened feline escapes.

Your cat's identity tag should include the following information

* Pet's name

* Owner's name and address

* Telephone numbers (day and evening)

* Medical problem requiring medication

* Veterinarian's name and number

* Current Rabies vaccination information

* Reward offer should pet become lost

Many people have their cats micro-chipped for identification. A small silicone chip containing the owner's contact information is painlessly inserted under the cat's skin. Most animal shelters automatically scan lost pets to read the owner contact information. However, if your cat is found by an average citizen an identification tag will speed up your reunion.

Pet Medication Supplies http://www.pet-medication-supplies.net can help you get the best possible supplies for your pet. Advantix, Arthramine, Cosequin, Frontline, Heartgard - find the best deals in pet medication for flea and tick control, arthritis and lyme disease. Upto 50% discount everyday on brand names.

Dog Clotheslet Dogs Be Dogs

Writen by Grant Carroll

Many dog owners love to dress up their little pooches in small dog clothes, and we're no exception. Our Chihuahuas, Sox and Bruiser, have just as many small dog clothes and small dog sweaters as any other pampered pup. Dressing up little dogs can have a very important function, especially in the harsh cold of winter. Dog booties can protect paws from rock salt and collections of ice in between toes. Small dog sweaters and dog coats protect thin coated breeds form losing too much heat to the freezing wind and ward off frost bite. They also help small dogs in warmer climates that stay inside very air conditioned houses. Having the right small dog clothes is an important step in keeping your little one safe and warm through winter.

Even with the functions small dog clothing serves, there is a point where dressing up your dogs can go too far. Putting a dog costume on them one night for a Halloween or Christmas party is fine, but putting dog clothes and booties on them everyday can be detrimental. When the weather isn't cold, dog clothes can lead to overheating, and the excessive bootie wear can soften the natural calluses on a dog's paws. Softened paws become sore easily and are more susceptible to damage.

We tend to project human status onto our dogs, but sometimes it's best to just let dogs be dogs.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters.

Also visit Little Pampered Babies where you can find Unique Baby Clothes and Toddler Clothing

Improve Your Dogs Behavior With Real Life Rewards

Writen by Laurie Luck

As I was thumbing through some local dog-training ads, I saw one that specifically mentioned "No food used during training." My jaw dropped when I read that! Being a trainer who believes in positive reward methods and uses food liberally in training, I was shocked that a trainer would use that as an attention-getter.

It shouldn't surprise me that the concept of using food in training confuses folks, heck it obviously confuses even some trainers! Many people mistakenly believe if you use food as a reward, the dog is working for the food, not for you. Or if you use food in training, you'll always have to have food to get the dog to do something for you.

Look at it this way -- your dog gets a meal at least once a day, right? A smart trainer will use that meal, a meal that the dog is going to get anyway, as a reward for doing something good (like sitting before the bowl is placed on the floor). Using your dog's dinner as a reward is called a real life reward -- it's something that happens during the course of a normal day that your dog likes. As a smart dog owner, you can use these to your advantage in your daily interactions with your dog.

Using real-life rewards is really convenient for you – you don't have to carry around anything special, there's no extra work involved for you. Another advantage of real-life rewards is that your dog is learning that he doesn't have to listen "just when it's time to train." We want our dogs to listen all the time, not just when we're practicing our training exercises.

Below are some examples of real life rewards you might be able to use in your daily routine. There are a bunch more, of course, this list is meant to jumpstart your thinking about the things that happen during a normal day that might serve as a real-life reward for your dog.

Playing A Game
Does your dog love to play tug with you? Is he crazy for a tennis ball? Does he delight in a squeaky toy? If your dog loves to play, use those games he likes to play as a reward for doing something good. For instance, if I call my dog and he comes running, I'll reward him with a five minute game of fetch. He loves fetch, so that's a great reward for coming when called.

Going for a Car Ride
If getting in the car is the highlight of your dog's day, use that to reward your well-behaved dog. You can practice "wait" as you open the car door. If your dog doesn't move, reward him by letting him hop in the car and take him for a spin around the block.

Snuggle Time
My dog loves to get on the sofa with me and take a snooze. (Yes, I allow my dogs on the furniture!) So if she looks like she might want to hop up with me, I'll ask her for a couple of things first: down, speak, sit, etc. If she does them, her reward is hopping up and getting some snuggle time with me. She loves it!

Going Outside
For some dogs, going for a walk outside with you is the highlight of their day. Don't waste the opportunity to use such a valuable reward! Ask for a few tricks from your dog before you leash him up. If he does them, say "Good dog!" and open the door and head out to reward your dog with a nice walk.

These are only a few real life rewards you can use with your dog -- there are a lot more. Others might include the chance to sniff a fire hydrant, chasing the vacuum cleaner, swimming, gnawing on a stuffed Kong, one-on-one time with you, playtime with another dog, off-leash freedom (in a safely enclosed area, of course!), running through the sprinkler, chasing a laser light in the dark, the list goes on and on... Your dog will tell you what he finds rewarding -- use it!

Real life rewards are easy for you, fun for the dog, and really reinforce the training you've done with your dog. Real life rewards also help strengthen the relationship between you and your dog, as well as reinforce your position as leader. It's a win-win situation for both you and your dog. Watch your dog over the next week or so and take note of the things you do during the course of the day that the dog seems to really enjoy. Start using those as real life rewards and watch your dog's behavior improve!

Laurie Luck, Certified Pet Dog Trainer
Smart Dog University, LLC
http://smartdoguniversity.com/
Mount Airy, MD
(240) 848-3468
Turning good dogs into GREAT dogs!
Visit our website to sign up for your free doggy tips newsletter!

The Dogue De Bordeaux Quothoochquot

Writen by Michael Russell

The Dogue de Bordeaux is a Mastiff from France. Descendant of the most ancient mastiffs, the Molloser dogs of Rome, the Dogue presents a large and forbidding appearance. He has a massive head with a bracocyphalic muzzle, super big paws and an abundance of wrinkles. The head of the Dogue is the largest in the canine world. The brow is pronounced, giving him a perpetually worried look. He has deep flews on the lips, which hold an abundance of slobber or drool. His face often has a black or red mask, which also gives him a rather pompous appearance. The dog's chest is deep and powerful and let down well beneath the elbows, while his neck is thick and equally powerful.

His color is fawn, gold, or speckled and the texture of the coat is soft and sleek. The Dogue de Bordeaux presents altogether a formidable appearance. The Dogue de Bordeaux is highly regarded not only for his protective instinct but also for his balanced temperament, being a dog that not only is fearless and powerful but also known and cherished by the people who own one as a devoted family dog who is extremely affectionate. This is a dog that throughout the centuries has proven himself in nearly every endeavor, from being a hunting dog to a guarding dog, a fighting dog and a drover. The Dogue served many a master of the estates in France as a protector of the property. For sport, they were used in the fighting pits and were pitted against each other and also formidable creatures of the forest such as the wild pig and the bear. They were used to hunt boar, bears and wolves. And they served the shepherds as cattle drovers and the peasants as the dog that pulled the cart.

Today the Dogue has gained acceptance as a generally happy and affectionate family dog and is gaining popularity in such versatile areas as Carting, Obedience, Conformation, Weight Pulling and Search and Rescue. Dogues thrive on human companionship and do not make good outdoor dogs unless allowed inside of an evening to be part of the household. The Dogue in general is actually not nearly as fierce as his appearance leads one to believe, however this is a dog that must be trained early to accept strangers and to be obedient. He can be a large and quite destructive puppy and needs a tolerant owner. The Dogue made his appearance in Hollywood with Tom Hanks in the movie "Turner and Hooch" as the irrepressible and slobbery mastiff "Hooch", becoming an overnight sensation and boosting his popularity in the United States and elsewhere.

The Dogue de Bordeaux has just been recently accepted into the registry of the American Kennel club as a member of the Miscellaneous Class (not yet eligible to attain a Championship) and the next step is usually full acceptance into one of the groups. It is expected that the Dogue de Bordeaux would fall into the Working Group, after a period of time in the Miscellaneous Classification.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

Selecting A Pit Bull Terrier Puppy From A Dog Breeder

Writen by Tim Amherst

Many people in the market for a Pit Bull puppy choose to buy that puppy from a breeder. It is important to talk to several different breeders before making a purchase so that you can make the most well informed decision. Breeders should be used to answering questions, so don't be intimidated when interviewing one.You need to ask questions so that you can find the puppy that is the best fit for you.

Serious breeders should be able to tell you all about their breeding line. They will be able to inform you of any negative traits or behavioral issues, as well as any health problems that have occurred with their puppies. Breeders should also be able to tell you what they have done to improve their methods to avoid behavioral or health problems.

Breeders should also be able to walk you through their process for selecting which dogs to breed and what the likely outcomes of that breeding will be, such as personality, color, health, size, etc.

You should find out how many different types of the dogs the breeder breeds. Some feel that it is better to breed only one type of dog. To ensure pure blood, you would probably want to select a breeder that only works with American Pit Bull Terriers.

Good breeders have more interest in the breed than just monetary gain. They should love the animals they have chosen to breed. Many breeders not only breed animals, but are involved in dog shows, training, etc.

It is also important to purchase from a breeder that tries to keep in touch with the people who have purchased his puppies. This shows that the breeder truly does care about the puppies and where they end up, and should also be easy for owners to contact should a problem arise.

Breeding many litters each year can sometimes lead to different issues, and it is recommended to avoid breeders that do this. Health of the dogs also tends to decline if there have been a lot of breeds in a short time frame.

You should definitely ask to see where the puppies are kept, which will give you an idea of how well they are cared for.

This is just a few things that should be considered when purchasing a Pit Bull puppy from a breeder. You should research all aspects before making a final decision, which should help you end up with the best puppy for you.

To learn all about Pitbull puppies and training a Pitbull terrier, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Dog Ear Care

Writen by Alison Cole

Taking care of dogs' sensory organs is one of the most important activities in the dog care process. They must be given due importance. Ear care is considered the most important thing regarding dogs. Their hearing capacity is extremely good in nature, and that is one of the biggest assets for police dogs and security dogs. They are trained to react even to the smallest sound that they hear. So, their ears and their hearing capacity should be in peak condition.

Dogs' ears are likely to be affected frequently with dust and debris leading to infections and other ear related problems. Their ears should be cleaned regularly. If they are not cleaned regularly, they develop ear mites. Ear mites are parasites which develop in the outer side of the ear canal. The symptoms of having ear mites are dogs keep on shaking their head or they constantly scratch their ears. They also try to rub their ears on the floor or sometimes they have excessive wax. These mites cause irritation. The other most affected part is its tail. Dogs mostly couch by keeping their tail near their head and so the tail gets affected. They also develop a bad odor. Dogs must be rushed immediately to a veterinarian to get cured. During their medication to the ears, the tail must also be paid attention.

Dogs' ears are very sensitive in nature. They should be cleaned only by a veterinarian. People without proper training may damage the dog's ears. You can learn about the cleaning methods from a practitioner and you can clean your own puppy. But this applies only to regular cleaning, and in case of an infection, definitely a veterinarian should be called on.

Dog care is not just feeding and hanging out with the dog. A bundle of responsibilities handled with perfection is the right path of taking care of a dog. One should acquire information from a doctor or through other sources to help them in difficult situations. Any knowledge gained about dog care will serve the right purpose at the right time.

Dog Care provides detailed information on Dog Care, Dog Day Care, Dog Dental Care, Dog Ear Care and more. Dog Care is affiliated with Large Dog Beds .

Introducing A New Puppy Into A Home With An Existing Pet

Writen by Cass Hope

It was November and I had spent 3 months searching for just the right puppy. Finally we had found what we considered to be the perfect one. Luckily she was already 7 weeks old so she could already be separated from her mother. I was so excited when we brought her home, our new addition to the family. I made sure I had all the required supplies; food and water dishes, food, a bed and a crate. We were ready. The fact that we already had a cat never really caused me much concern. I figured they would give each other a good sniff and surely it would not take long for them to become the best of friends and live happily ever after. I had visions of our little puppy all curled up with our cat in front of the fireplace.

Reality hit when I walked into our house carrying a crate with our newest family member inside. Our dog is a female so I will use she when referring to a dog. The cat seemed a little curious so in a moment of obvious brain freeze I took the puppy out of the crate to introduce the two. Our cat in a split second armed herself for battle. The hair was straight up making her look like I had just taken her out of the dryer and she started hissing and growling as if her opponent was a rottweiler rather than a puppy that could fit in my hand. The poor puppy could barely walk so she just fell into a ball and shivered and whimpered. I'm sure that as soon as we removed the dog and put her back in her crate, the cat went to her bed and stated plotting a way to have the new puppy just suddenly "disappear" like getting flushed down the toilet. She considered herself to be the queen of the household and it was obvious that there was going to be a battle for the crown. Boy had I called this meeting wrong! In an attempt to help you avoid a similar situation I'm going to outline a few pointers as to what you SHOULD do when you introduce your new puppy to your resident pet. This information comes from research done concerning raising a puppy, unfortunately the how to introduce guidelines would have been much more beneficial if found BEFORE the actual deed was done.

Firstly the introduction must be done slowly. If possible take a towel and rub the new puppy with it then bring it home and put it somewhere that your resident pet will frequent and be able to smell. This will also work if you take something that has the scent of your existing pet on it and put it in the carrier you bring your new puppy home in. When you first bring a new animal into your home she should stay quarantined from the other animals until it has seen the vet. Once she has seen the vet you will still need to keep her separate from the other animals. Allow the animals to smell the new puppy from under the door so they may become to each other. After a few days to a week you can try the introduction but make sure you are close in case you have to take on the roll of referee. If there is some growling or paw raising don't interfere unless of course you feel your puppy is in danger.

If your puppy is being crate trained you can put her back in the crate and continue to take her out for short intervals to spend time with the other animal. Make sure the amount of time you let them spend together is increased gradually. Most importantly never leave the two animals alone and be sure to flood the resident animal with love and attention so they feel secure in their place in the family. This will greatly reduce the risk of having the new puppy take a whirl in the toilet. If you want all animals to live in harmony you have to be patient and let the animals deal with each other in their own way and on their own time.

Cass Hope has been a writer for over 5 years. Cass regularly contributes to online and offline publications in a variety of areas. She also teaches classes in basic obedience for puppies. She is currently sponsoring this site: http://www.1st4dog-training.info

(for web reprints please ensure this URL is hyperlinked)

Quality Fish Food What Ingredients Are Needed For Proper Fish Nutrition Growth And Health

Writen by Carl Strohmeyer

INTRODUCTION:

There is a lot of confusion about what constitutes a quality flake food (or pellet). The aquarist needs to understand that there are similarities and differences between fish and other animals. For example; Fish get most of their energy needs from fat, but in humans carbohydrates are a better source. Another point is amino acids (the building blocks of proteins); almost all animals have different amino acid needs. For example; Cats need Taurine in there diet or they can suffer heart problems.

Then there is the speed of digestion, some fish such as goldfish tend to have slower digestive tracts (I like to compare it to a horse, but there are major differences such as the stomach). But the similarity is that if too high a protein or the wrong protein diet is fed, the horse may colic, and in goldfish they will build up intestinal gas and infections including swim bladder or dropsy will ensue. The wrong amino acids in any fish will lead to aquarium pollution (extra ammonia) and renal failure.

Another note about fish food is what carnivores need. Carnivorous fish often consume whole animals including intestinal contents, which often include plant material. A quality fish food for carnivores must include vegetable matter such as spirulina.

HERE ARE A FEW BUILDING BLOCK INGREDIENTS:

AMINO ACIDS:

An amino acid is any molecule that contains both amines (organic compounds that contain nitrogen as the key atom. Structurally amines resemble ammonia) and Carboxylic acids (organic acids characterized by the presence of a carboxyl group). Amino acids are used as the basic components of proteins.

The net protein utilization is profoundly affected by the limiting amino acid content or protein quality (the essential amino acid found in the smallest quantity in the foodstuff), and somewhat affected by salvage of essential amino acids in the body. It is therefore a good idea to mix foodstuffs that have different weaknesses in their essential amino acid distributions. This limits the loss of nitrogen through deamination and increases overall net protein utilization. Eggs (whether fish or even chicken) have the highest protein quality of any source. Which makes hard boiled egg crumbles an excellent food source for fry.

DL-methionine is an essential amino acid for producing the "Lionhead" feature in goldfish. High levels of methionine can be found in the vegetable proteins of spinach, green peas, and garlic. DL-methionine can also be found in fish meal.

Bottom line; Not all protein sources are equal. An analogy used at a pet food seminar I attended was this: You can achieve the protein analysis on many pet foods with a used pair of leather shoes, but leather shoes contain little usable proteins.

FATS:

Molecular compounds that are generally soluble in organic solvents and largely insoluble in water. Fats are important for insulating body organs against shock, maintaining body temperature, and promoting healthy cell function. They also serve as energy stores for the body. Fats are broken down in the body to release glycerol and free fatty acids. The glycerol can be converted to glucose by the liver and thus used as a source of energy. The fatty acids are the main source of energy in fish, especially for many tissues, such as heart and skeletal muscle. Another important function for fats are for vitamin absorption. Vitamins A, D, E, and K are fat-soluble, meaning they can only be digested, absorbed, and transported in conjunction with fats.

CARBOHYDRATES:

Molecular substances which include the sugars, starches, gums and celluloses. The common attributes of carbohydrates are that they contain only the elements carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, and that their combustion will yield carbon dioxide plus one or more molecules of Water. Most of the carbohydrates that enter the diet of fish are of plant origin. Carnivorous fish such as groupers, therefore, deal with little carbohydrate. Indeed, experiments have shown that these species are ill-equipped to handle significant quantities of raw carbohydrate, in their diets. The ability of fish to digest carbohydrates depends on their ability to elaborate amylase. All species of fish have been shown to secrete at least some amylase. It has also been demonstrated that activity of this enzyme was greatest in herbivores.

Carbohydrates are not a superior energy source for fish over protein or fat although digestible carbohydrates do spare protein for tissue building. Also, unlike in mammals, glycogen is not a significant storage depot of energy in fish. The more efficient metabolism of amino acids over carbohydrates (glucose) for energy could be due to the ability of fish to excrete nitrogenous waste as ammonia from their gills without the high cost of energy in converting the waste to urea.

FISH FOOD SOURCES:

FISH MEAL:

Fish meal has been widely used as a protein source for many years for fish. Two basic types of fish meal are produced; (1) produced from fishery waste (salmon, tuna, etc.) that are associated with the processing of various edible human fishery products and (2) When specific fish (herring, menhaden, pollack, etc.) are harvested just for the purpose to produce fish meal. The fish can be dried directly drying or cooking prior to drying and oil extracted. In addition to being a by-product of human fish production it is also a by-product associated with fish oil production, which is where most commercial fish food obtain fish meal from.

Fish meal can be classified as two basic types; (1) fishery waste associated with the processing of fish for human consumption, again the primary source. (2) Fish that are only used for the production of fish meal. This is the best source, listed on ingredients as "Whole Fish Meal" or "White Fish Meal".

SHRIMP MEAL:

Shrimp meal can be made from either cull shrimp that are being processed before freezing or from whole shrimp that is not of suitable quality for human consumption. The material to be made into shrimp meal is dried (sun or using a dryer) and then ground. Shrimp meal has been used in trout and salmon diets as a source of pigments to impart the desirable color in the tissues. Shrimp meal has been found to be an acceptable supplemental protein source for fish, but inferior to whole fish meal.

SQUID MEAL:

Squid Meal is made from squid viscera portions from cannery plants including egg and testis. Squid Meal is high digestibility of protein source, which provides a full range of amino acids for fish. It provides various kinds of vitamins and minerals and also 1.0-1.5% of cholesterol that is suitable for fish fry and young fish.

BRINE SHRIMP:

Just over a centimeter in size, the adult brine shrimp (Artemia) is a common food source for fish. They can be purchased at many Pet Store as adults, Freeze dried or even eggs. The eggs look like a powdery brown substance but in reality the substance is thousands of cysts—eggs surrounded by protective cases. When added to water, these cysts will hatch into shrimp nauplii within a few hours.

As a food source brine shrimp are relatively limited (mostly because of their high water content). They are a good source of carotene for color and act as a natural laxative in fish digestive systems. The proteins them do supply are of high quality. Depending on the source they also can supply vegetable matter due to their consumption of algae.

SOYBEAN MEAL:

Use of soybean products in the aquaculture industry have become the focus of protein substitution in fish food around the world. The high protein level makes it a key ingredient for aquaculture feeds. Soybean meal is considerably less expensive than traditionally used marine animal meals. The limiting amino acid content of soybean meal is high, but not on the level of Whole fish meal and especially egg.

SPIRULINA:

Spirulina is a blue-green plant plankton rich in raw protein and seven major vitamins: A1, B1, B2, B6, B12, C and E. It naturally contains beta-carotene, color enhancing pigments, and whole range of minerals. In addition, it contains all essential fatty acids and eight amino acids required for complete nutrition. Spirulina is different from other algae and is similar to bacteria in many ways, occupying a niche between plants and bacteria. Spirulina is similar to cyanobacteria in structure (spiral shape, unlike true plant plankton), which can be toxic. Spirulina Blue- Green algae are recognized by the body (fish in particular) as a bacterium, causing an increase in antibodies, which in turn increases disease resistance. Spirulina is also high in usable or digestible amino acids. Spirulina is probably one of the best fish food ingredients available, including for carnivores.

WHOLE WHEAT:

Carbohydrates as explained earlier are not the best source of energy in fish, but still can be useful, especially when whole wheat is used. One reason is for roughage, especially in goldfish and koi, but also for other fish for the wheat-germ found in whole wheat is a natural source of vitamin E, an important vitamin to promote healthy growth and fish color.

SUMMARY:

Compare TetraMin to some of the facts I have explained, then compare foods such as HBH Tropical and Marine Flake; Spirulina One Flake; Hikari and Sanyu Foods, such as Sanyu Betta Gold. The difference is quite clear for long term growth and health.

By Carl Strohmeyer americanaquariumproducts.com/Quality_Fish_Food.html http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com

Crate Training For Your Puppy

Writen by Sylvie Leochko

When most people see a puppy, their heart melts and they start yearning to get one. They see how cute the puppy is, how playful and how affectionate it is but what about the basic dog training that it requires?

What am I talking about? Well, for starters, your new puppy will need to learn a few things such as: becoming potty trained, to walk on a leash, to go to sleep at night without howling and certainly not to chew everything in site, including you.

Like a baby, a puppy has a lot to learn and limits are one these things. First of all, your puppy has no intention to displease you so when you see it has an accident on your carpet or on the floor; it is not its fault. Why? Simply because its bladder is so small and the muscles responsible for helping to control it or his bowels are not strong enough to do it yet. As it grows bigger and older, you will see the difference.

As for howling at night don't forget that your puppy is missing the presence of its mother, it feels lonely and needs to cuddle up. As it will grow up, and that he starts feeling comfortable and at home, this behavior will come to an end.

And what about chewing? Well, he is basically teething. Also don't forget that it is how it learned to play with its mother and siblings. Humans are more sensitive and so are their belongings so once again, basic dog training is required.

What can you do to train your dog in the best and most efficient way possible? Well, ask any veterinarian, dog breeders or experienced dog owners, using a crate is the solution.

Several people think that putting a dog in a cage is cruel and selfish but what they do not know is that later on, even the dog itself will enjoy it. It will become a safe and comfortable place where it can relax and sleep just like a doghouse.

Also, your puppy will not always be in its crate as it will be only at night and when you are gone to work or any other event where your dog will be left alone. At first your puppy may not like it, but believe me only time and patience will prove you the opposite.

Before purchasing a crate, you should consider a few things. For example, some crates are made of metal and are foldable and others are made of plastic and have a handle to carry it around if small enough.

The plastic one may be better for air travel or in some cases; car travel depending on its size but the fact that the view is limited due to the solid panels is one disadvantage as your puppy will feel lonelier. Also, if your puppy has an accident in it, the bad smells tend to seek in its surface due to a lack of aeration plus not having a removable tray, the cleaning is more difficult to do.

The metal crate tends to be bigger, especially if you have a bigger dog like a labrador retriever which makes it more difficult to find a space for it. They are solid, foldable which makes it easier when traveling and your puppy has a great view which helps against loneliness.

Also, a metal crate has a removable tray which makes cleaning a lot easier. Since it has great air circulation, the bad smells only follow the dirty newspapers in the garbage.

Another thing that you should not about crate training is that it helps the dog training of your puppy in several areas. For example, at night, it solves the problem of finding little accidents on your floor by stepping in them. Also since a dog does not want to sleep where he relieves itself, your puppy will try its best to control its bladder and bowel movements which will help to develop these muscles as well.

Don't buy a crate too large for your puppy but make it large enough to accommodate your puppy when it will be fully grown.

When you are preparing the crate, make it inviting and as comfortable as possible for your puppy. Cover the bottom with newspapers if desired, put a blanket or basket in the opposite end and your new puppy's home is ready.

To help you with the howling, as more than likely it will happen for a while, you can also take a clock that ticks loudly to remind him of its mother's heartbeat and a hot water bag filled with hot water to allow him to cuddle against something that reminds it of the softness and warmth of its mother.

Another thing to do to help it feel less lonely, is to put either a radio, some music or the television set on so it can hear noise and voices in the background. Another thing that can help to prevent it from peeing in his crate is to control his water intake by removing its bowl at 8 p.m. or approximately 2 hours prior to your time going to bed. This advice was given to me by my dog's veterinarian.

And last but not least, chewing will be controlled by keeping your puppy out of trouble. This way you will prevent him from being harmed by chewing electrical wires or simply from your frustration of having to replace damaged goods.

My name is Sylvie Leochko. If you wish to learn more about dog training or labrador retrievers as they are great service pets as well as wonderful with children, I invite you to visit the following sites: http://dogtraining.findoutnow.org and http://labrador-retrievers.findoutnow.org

Indoor Dogfishing Fun Way To Exercise A Small Or Medium Size Dog

Writen by G. Metcalf

When I had a Toy Poodle, I used a small beanie baby toy tied to a twenty foot long cord to exercise him for at least ten minutes at a time, twice a day. I'd throw it across the room and he'd run after it to snatch it up, fueled by canine fantasies of ripping it apart.

But he knew he wouldn't be able to act out his warrior instincts if he brought it back to me — which is why I had it tied to a cord. As once he got hold of it, that was the only way I could get it back, unless I wanted to chase him around under tables.

Most of the time I'd start yanking on the cord as soon as the toy landed, and he'd have to pounce on it to keep it still long enough to grab it in his mouth. But frequently, I'd be too quick for him — and I was able to get it past his lightening fast paws. Then I would pull the toy across the floor as fast as I could reel the cord in, while he ran after it like a cat chasing a mouse.

He'd usually lose those races, and would have to wait for me to throw it again. But this way he knew the game wasn't fixed, and that it required genuine skill on his part in order for him to 'win the prize' — which made it all the more exciting for him.

When he was successful in keeping me from getting the toy past him after it landed, he'd clamp down on it with as much force as his Toy Poodle jaws would allow. Then he'd continually shake it while I pulled the toy, and him, back to me.

He even 'applied his brakes' frequently during the process, and played tug of war with me — quickly scooting backwards about three feet whenever I allowed a little slack in the cord. This was like reeling in an eight pound dogfish that was on steroids. But after slowly dragging him across the floor to within arms reach of me, he would suddenly release his alligator grip on the toy and let me have it.

Then he immediately tensed up and assumed a position to spring after it when I threw it again. But he watched it very intently until he actually saw it fly past him, because he had been fooled too many times in the past when I just pretended to throw it.

During those occasions, he ran to the area where he was expecting it to land, and would then look back at me with a puzzled expression — wondering what had gone wrong. When he saw me laughing and dangling the toy in front of me, he'd instantly get a big grin on his face. Then he'd come charging back at me full speed in order to do a Toy Poodle version of a drop kick on my knee.

But I'd usually throw the toy before he reached me — which resulted in him slamming on his brakes, and then running back to where he had just been. So he soon learned to wait by my side until he was sure that I had really thrown it.

He never got tired of this game, and would have done it for hours at a time if he had been able to coax me into playing with him for that long. This daily tug of war was so entertaining for me — I never got tired of it either. As it was a lot like going fishing every day, without any of the hassles or expense. Plus, I was guaranteed to catch 'a big one' every time I 'cast my line out'. Another benefit was that I could reuse the same bait over and over. :)

Whenever I walked towards the file cabinet that I initially kept the toy on, he thought it was playtime and would start prancing around and barking. To avoid disappointing him several times a day with false alarms, I had to keep the toy stored inside an out of the way cabinet when it wasn't 'in use'.

Needless to say, this is excellent exercise for indoor dogs, as well as being great for their mental health. As it gives them a fun activity to look forward to each day, etc. Thus it can only serve to extend their life to a ripe old age if done on a daily basis. It would also be a lot of fun for you!

So if your dog's exercise routine consists of nothing more than slow-paced back yard sniff patrols, you may want to give this technique a try. To save wear and tear on your arm, simply swing the toy by the cord in a loop and release it — allowing the momentum to carry it across the room.

If you have a lazy dog, you may need to tease him with the toy first, to get him riled up enough to want doggy revenge. Simply place it on top of his head, and 'walk' it across his back, etc. Then when you finally throw it, he'll be more motivated to run after it so he can give it a good shaking. :)

Once he experiences the 'thrill of the chase' a few times, it will likely become habit forming, and he'll want to keep doing it. Unless he's just not into chasing stuffed animals. Ironically, as much fun as my dog had with this game, he wanted absolutely nothing to do with ANY type of ball. Whenever I rolled one past him, he would just glance at it for a second and then ignore it. So whether your dog takes to this dogfishing sport will undoubtedly depend on his personality.

Obviously, this exercise method wouldn't be practical to use with all dogs, since large dogs would probably win a tug of war with most people. The problem with the dog winning is that it could create a top dog power struggle over who should roll onto their back as "a sign of submission". Meaning that your dog may get the idea that he's the new pack leader in your family.

It would also be a bad idea to play this game with an aggressive breed of dog. Because if he gets loose, his canine brain may kick into 'game mode' if he sees a jogger running by — which could result in serious injuries for the jogger, as well as criminal charges for you.

If your dog has a loose tooth, then the game is over before it starts, due to excessive pressure from the toy causing him pain. This would be a good cue for you to take your dog in for a thorough teeth cleaning — as your veterinarian will be able to pull any loose teeth that he finds during the procedure.

In fact, annual teeth cleanings/dental checkups are crucial for the overall health of your dog. As a single loose tooth can result in serious health problems due to bacteria getting into the bloodstream — and can wind up costing you a lot more than preventative teeth cleanings would have cost. (Check out article #35 on my Web site for some good information on canine periodontal disease.)

Also, I never tried this dogfishing game on a carpeted floor, so I have no idea what the results would be. It's conceivable that a thick carpet would give even a small dog a big advantage in a tug of war. Which might allow an excessive amount of pressure to be exerted on fragile bones, teeth, etc. So before pulling too hard, you should consult your veterinarian to determine if this activity would involve any risk for your particular dog.

Visit my Web site for other interesting articles: http://www.mostwanteddogs.com

Copyright © 2005 G. Metcalf. All rights reserved.