Pet Breeders

How To Remove A Tick From A Dog

2009-03-04T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Mary Casey

Your dog comes in from a romp in the woods and settles down on your lap for a belly rub when you feel gasp a bump on your dog's soft fur. When you look closer you find the bane of many a dog and dog owner's life the tick.

Male brown dog ticks and nonengorged female ticks are flat and brown. Deer ticks are tiny; you can barely see them if they haven't had their 'drink' yet. As the female ticks fill up on your dog's blood they start to look like gray beans about a quarter inch long. They have four small legs on each side near their mouth. The deer tick is know to carry Lyme disease and can be harder to find than the dog tick because it is so small.

How do you safely remove the tick? First you need the right tools, then you need a steady hand. First, get yourself a fine-tipped tweezers or you can use one of the new tick removal instruments they sell at your local pet supply superstore. The new instruments let you remove the tick without squeezing the tick's body so you don't introduce harmful bacteria from the tick into your dog's bloodstream.

1. First, grab the tick by the head or the mouth parts right where they enter the skin. This can be hard if the tick isn't engorged with blood. Don't grab the tick by the body.

2. Now you have a firm hold on the tick's head. Pull firmly back and out in a straight motion. Don't twist the tick as you are pulling it out.

3. Look at the ugly thing wriggling around in your tweezers. Then stick it in a jar of alcohol to kill it. Ticks don't die when you flush them down the toilet.

4. Just in case some bacteria were released during the tick removal, dab your dog's skin with a disinfectant ointment.

5. Wash your hands too.

Some old wive's tales about tick removal are not effective, and can be dangerous. Do not burn the tick with a hot match, you could burn your dog, or you. Sticking petroleum jelly on the tick, or dabbing it with alcohol won't work either. You need to pull out the tick with the tweezers.

What happens if part of the tick's head stays in your dog? Don't panic. Your dog's skin will inflame and break the pieces with time. Sometimes your dog's skin will react after you pull out a tick because the tick's saliva can be irritating to the dog. You may notice swelling or even a scar with a hairless area after you remove the tick. You could use some hydrocortisone cream to help if the skin looks really irritated, but it will calm down naturally, with time.

Of course, the best thing to do is prevent ticks from biting your dog in the first place. Use anti- tick medicine as prescribed by your vet and keep your dog out of high grasses and leaves. Remember, you need the right tools and a steady hand to win the war against the tick.

Important: Please consult your own vet or pet professional before using any advice!

Mary Casey is an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ which is a site for Writers.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

One Of The Benefits Of Using Recoverypetscom

2009-03-03T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by T.B. Collins

One of the benefits of registering your pet with a pet recovery service is that in the event your pet should ever become lost, the finder can get information to contact the owner.

The main drawback to many of these services is that they use the information currently located on the pet tag to register the pet, and by doing this, the finder of the pet does not have a place to go to view the owners contact information.

Now these services are all right for rural communities that may have one veterinarian, and everyone practically knows each other, but they are not suited to medium or large metropolitan areas.

In these areas the chance of a pet being recovered decrease because it is an ever evolving society, and constantly growing. To take advantage of the benefits provided by a registration service in these areas, the registrar's information has to be visible on the pet tag. One such company that provides a pet tag with its web address on the tag is RecoveryPets.com, and also on the tag is the unique registration number the pet receives when it is registered.

One of the major benefits of this type of registration is that no matter who find the lost pet, they will know exactly where to go to find the owners contact information. And, the RecoveryPets.Com website is designed to be simple to navigate, so that the finder can quickly retrieve the pet owners contact information. To view their site and see how simple it is to navigate visit them at: http://www.recoverypets.com

Thaddeus Collins is the owner of RecoveryPets.Com a company that specializes in the global recovery of lost pets using a unique tracking number that is registered on the companies website, and can be searched if the pet becomes lost. For more information visit http://www.recoverypets.com

Dogs And Medications How To Give Tablets To Your Dog

2009-03-02T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Brigitte Smith

Does your dog mind taking tablets?

I don't know why it is, but medicines for both humans and our pets usually taste bitter or otherwise revolting. And dogs are notoriously suspicious when it comes to being asked to take tablets of any description. Remember, your dog has an acute sense of smell! It's difficult indeed to persuade the average pooch to swallow any medication designed to cure any illness, disease or disability from which he/she is suffering. Your poor dog doesn't understand that you're trying to assist him/her. No, they invariably view such treatments with utter contempt and disdain.

My Rottweiler, Kara, is actually not too bad with tablets. Mostly I can easily prise her mouth open, drop the medication onto the back of her tongue and then hold her mouth closed for a few seconds, and she'll generally swallow it without too much fuss. Or if it's a really nasty tasting one, a lump of peanut butter around the tablet will generally do the trick quite nicely.

Not so my Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Jet. Oh no. Fortunately Jet has been surprisingly illness-free during her 10 years. I can only hope this picture of health phenomenon will continue for the remainder of her days. Because on the odd occasion when I do need to have her swallow anything faintly resembling a tablet, oh my goodness, what a fuss.

I dread giving tablets - medication and vitamins alike. You'd think that she'd know by now that I wasn't trying to poison her. But no. She runs away and cowers in a corner, slipping deftly away whenever I get close. And when I do catch her, and throw the tablet into her mouth you'd think Jet's life depended upon her making every conceivable attempt to spit the tablet out. Peanut butter? Forget it - she just licks it all off and spits the tablet out. Tasty cheese? Same thing. Crushing it up and mixing it in with her scrambled eggs/tinned tuna/canned dog food? Not a chance. Up goes her nose and away she trots.

So the only option is to hold that mouth closed until the tablet disintegrates, because oh my goodness, Jet is absolutely determined not to swallow. It takes several minutes of hanging on tight to her mouth and keeping it closed while she pushes her tongue out between the little gaps in her teeth over and over again making every possible attempt to disgorge the offending tablet, and when that fails, she simply froths at the mouth. And froths and froths and froths until I think she's almost going to suffocate. And when it's all over, she refuses to have anything to do with me (for at least 10 minutes until the terrible memory of it fades!)

I suppose I should count my lucky stars that one of my dogs is a pushover with the dreaded tablet taking scenario!

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in holistic dog health.

Pick up your special FREE dog health report - there's lots of dog health information here, too!

Why Exotic Pets Should Not Be Banned

2009-03-01T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Jessi Clark-White

We all know how special interest groups can blow things out of proportion like the nonexistent "Exotic Pet Crisis." If you listened to some animal rights groups, you'd think keeping exotic pets is cruel, dangerous, and even bordering on treason! Before you buy that agenda, consider that a junior high student once made a convincing case for banning dihydrogen monoxide: colorless, odorless, and tasteless, it kills thousands of people every year.

Most deaths are caused by inhalation, but the dangers of dihydrogen monoxide do not end there. Prolonged exposure to its solid form causes severe tissue damage. Dihydrogen monoxide is also known as hydroxl acid, is the major component of acid rain, may cause severe burns, contributes to land erosion, may cause electrical failures and decreased effectiveness of automobile brakes, and has been found in excised tumors of terminal cancer patients.

This report was presented to 50 students, asking them what should be done about the chemical. 43 students favored banning it, 6 were undecided, and only one correctly recognized that 'dihydrogen monoxide' is actually H2O -- plain old water. How gullible are you?

Banning my cat makes about as much sense as banning yours and the results are just as heartbreaking for pet and owner. Are you ready for the truth about the "Exotic Pet Crisis?"

Exotic pets are not dangerous! One study showed that the risk of injury to exotic cat owners was less than the risk of injury due to a domestic dog bite. And every person who drives a motor vehicle subjects themselves and their family to a risk three times greater then does someone who owns even a large exotic cat such as a tiger.
Most exotic pet owners are kind, intelligent people who adore their animals and take excellent care of them. We love our pets just as you love yours.
Exotic animal bans result in beloved pets being confiscated, impounded, and usually killed. A lucky few live out their lives in cages under the care of strangers in zoos and sanctuaries. This is the dirty secret animal rights groups don't want you to know. Banning does not help animals: it kills them!
Exotic cat ownership is already regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the U.S. Department of Interior, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, CITES, the Animal Welfare Act, the Endangered Species Act, the Lacey Act, more city, county, and state regulations than you can shake a stick at, as well as existing animal welfare and public safety laws that govern both exotic and domestic animals.
"You can buy a tiger on the Internet for $100.00," research-averse activists proclaim in horror. Just try to order up a tiger online, or even a serval. You won't succeed. This urban legend has great repeatability at cocktail parties and save-the-cute-animals-from-evil-humans fundraisers, but is severely lacking in the reality department. Breeders do have web sites, but it takes much more than a click of the mouse to purchase an exotic cat.

For information on wild and exotic cats from servals to tigers as pets, visit http://www.exoticcatz.com. The site includes articles on care, behavior, housing, and legal issues as well as species profiles and photos.

This article may be reprinted in its entirety only. Permission is not granted to reproduce in edited form or to support the ending of exotic pet ownership.

Choosing A Bed For Your Dog

2009-02-28T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Charles Kassotis

Does your dog enjoy sleeping with you at night? Although cuddling with a pet can keep owner and dog warm and snuggly, keep in mind that most animals are not as clean as people, nor do they always follow the same sleep patterns. A dog can track mud, grass, and even nature's business between your sheets, not to mention fleas and ticks. He might want to go for a walk at 3 a.m. when all you want to do is sleep. These are some of the common reasons why pets deserve a bed of their own. The nesting routine is as old as time, so providing your dog with his own place to sleep can create a sense of security that will help to keep your pet calm and well adjusted, not to mention help you get a good night's sleep.

But how do you know which type of bed will best suit your canine's needs? Consider the following criteria before shopping for your dog's bedroom furniture.

1. Get the right size bed for your animal. How big will he get? If you have a large breed, get a bed with enough size to accommodate his full-grown stature. Ask the vet how tall and heavy your pet is expected to get, especially if he is a mixed breed. Then you can estimate the size of bed that will be needed. One that is too small will make your dog feel cramped, and he'll probably find another sleeping spot. On the other hand, an overly large bed could let your little Chihuahua feel insecure and unprotected, likewise leading to his hunt for a new location.

2. Train a new puppy where to sleep. Like children, pets need guidance about where to go or what to do. Keep your pet's bed in the same place to establish a routine. This might be in the laundry room, family room, the deck, or a doghouse. Don't let a puppy drag its bed all over the place or he will never learn where he's supposed to stay at night. Get in the habit of putting your dog to bed at the same time each night, and he will soon get used to it.

3. Choose durable materials. A foam mattress can provide solid support for the larger frames of full-grown pets, whereas small piece-type filling will lend more flexibility to a bed, and is better suited to small dogs or puppies. Check to be sure the cover is removable and washable, and launder it every week or two, using hot water and mild detergent to kill fleas and ticks. Teach your puppy not to chew his bedding, which will quickly destroy it and force you to buy another. A smart rap on the nose with a newspaper or a squirt of water from a spray bottle when he is caught in the act ought to do it.

4. Keep the bed out of the way to prevent accidents. Let all family members know where the bed will be kept, and tuck it into a nook or cranny where no one is likely to trip over it when carrying laundry or hurrying past that area. Your dog will be able to sleep better in a quiet, semi-protected environment.

Although buying your dog a bed should not be as time-consuming or costly as buying human furniture, it nevertheless pays to plan ahead and take time in making the best possible choice for all concerned.

For more information on Dog Beds and how Dog Beds can help both you and your precious pooch sleep better, visit Absolutely Dogs at http://www.absolutely-dogs.com

Helping People With Pet Allergies

2009-02-27T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Shawn Messonnier

Many pet owners find themselves or other family members allergic to their pets. This is most true with cats:a great number of people just can't handle being around cats without sneezing, wheezing, or itching. Even though some will advise you to get rid of your pet, this is not usually necessary. In fact, a well known tranquilizer may help combat your pet allergies. The tranquilizer, acepromazine, is used by many veterinarians in their practices. It serves as a mild sedative and works best as an adjunct to anesthesia and to keep pets quiet postoperatively. Unfortunately it is also (incorrectly) used to treat various phobias such as storm phobias. It does NOT relieve anxiety in the pet by actually increases anxiety by making the pet immobile; better treatments exist for various phobias in pets.

Several years ago someone came up with the idea of trying it in a homeopathic form to treat people who have allergies to their pets. The acepromazine is prepared in such a way as to make it extremely dilute. This diluted form is placed on a pet's food one or more times daily. If it works, the allergic person stops having symptoms when in the pet's presence. Does it really work? I can say a definite YES after having used it for many years. Does it always work? Unfortunately not. In my experience I would say that most (80%) cases in which I've prescribed it have been successfully resolved. In many of these cases the pet, usually a cat, was going to be given away because the owner's allergies were so bad. When it works, it literally can save a pet's life. No one really knows why it works. However, since most allergies to pets occur from allergens in the pet's saliva (and to some extent the pet's skin cells and hair cells,) the homeopathic preparation must remove, reduce, or bind the allergens that cause the discomfort in the allergic owners.

For people who experience pet allergies, I would certainly suggest trying it on their pet's food. I have never seen side effects (and would not really ever expect any due to the dilute homeopathic nature of the product,) and there is no aversive taste to the product.

Dr. Shawn Messonnier is the author of 8 Weeks to a Healthy Dog, The Allergy Solution for Dogs, and the award-winning The Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats. Dr. Shawn is the medical consultant for Pet Togethers, a pet supplement company.

http://www.pettogethers.net/healthypet

http://www.petcarenaturally.com

Finding Your New Dog

2009-02-26T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Pat Doyle

You have researched dog breeds and know what kind of dog you want. Now, how do you go about finding your dog?

Please do not buy your dog in a pet store. This is asking for trouble, both with health problems and psychological problems. Pet stores are notorious for getting their puppies from puppy mills, which just churn out puppies with no regard to their health or psychological well-being.

I would suggest these as the best three ways to find a dog:

1) Get your dog from a reputable breeder. If you want a purebred dog, this is a good option. A good breeder is concerned about the dogs they breed, and will make sure the dog is a good match for you. They will do their best to make sure the puppy is healthy and well-adjusted. They will give you advice on how to raise and take care of your dog.

How do you find a good breeder? One way is to check around in your community for recommendations. Ask vets or other dog professionals for their recommendations. You can also check a dog breeder directory on the internet. You can usually select the breed you are looking for and your geographic location, and you will get a list of breeders in your area. Just type "dog breeder directory" into your search engine to find one.

2) Get your dog from a dog rescue organization. These groups find homes for unwanted or abandoned dogs of a particular breed. There is usually an organization for each breed. The American Kennel Club has a list of dog rescue groups on its website.

3) Adopt your dog from a shelter. This is a good option if you don't care about having a purebred dog. Shelters have a wide variety of dogs available. I got my dog at a Humane Society shelter. They do a good job of talking with you to find out what kind of dog would be best suited to your needs.

It is very rewarding to adopt a dog from a shelter and give it a good home. Also, I like adopting a shelter dog because you can adopt a dog who is already past the housebreaking stage, if you want to. If you don't find the dog you want there right away, they can keep an eye out for you, or you can keep returning until you "fall in love" with one of the dogs.

Pat Doyle is the creator of the popular website Doggiewoggie - All About Dogs.

This article may be republished as long as you keep the full text, author's name, and website link with the article.

10 Most Important Tips To Training Your Puppies

2009-02-25T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Paul W Wilson

All of us dream of parenting the perfect dog, a pup that is a CGC or canine good citizen and is well behaved and dependable at all times. Well dreams do come true if the training is done with care and dedication. Remember pups learn from day one and need to be taught what is right, what is wrong, and proper socialization.

Pups are like children, they need constant supervision and training. Training a pup need not be an ordeal all you need to keep in mind are a few simple rules:

Until your pup learns you need to keep an eye on him at all times. When you cannot then you must crate him. Create a schedule for the pup this will help the pup settle down quickly. The schedule must include things like hourly bath rooming visits, eating times, rest periods, walks, play time, training, and so on. A pup that has a busy day has no time to be bored and get into mischief.

Teach the pup to respect you. Dogs live in packs and instinctively follow a leader. If you establish your leadership in no uncertain terms then training will become easy as the pup will obey you at all times and not challenge your authority.

Use only positive training methods. Never shout at, hit, or punish a dog. It is not just cruel but can lead to behavioral problems. Use of electric shocks, prong collars, sprays, and so on could hurt the animal.

Teach the pup "nothing in life is free." This is a system that is widely acknowledged as a useful training tool. If you practice this, the pup will learn that to get something like love, a walk, or treat, he must behave well.

Teach the meaning of "No," from day one. Do not encourage behaviors like jumping, mouthing, tug-o-war, barking, or running out of open gates and doors. Praise good behavior and ignore or walk away when there is bad behavior. The pup will learn that if he misbehaves he will loose his companion/playmate.

To correct a behavior you must catch the pup in the act and startle him by rattling a can of pebbles. Once you have done this make him correct his behavior and immediately offer him a treat and praise. Pups do not recall what happened earlier so scolding him after an event is of no use.

Always call/use his name positively. Never say "Bad TOM," or "No Tom," this will cause confusion and the pup will think that if you call his name then it is something bad. The pup must associate his name with happy events like hugs, petting, walks, treats, and such. If this happens he will come willingly when you call out his name.

Create a training schedule that is short and sweet say 10 minutes thrice a day. Long repetitive lessons can be boring and the pup will loose interest in learning. Make learning fun and use trick training to teach commands like sit, down, come and so on.

Bond with the pup and both of you will enjoy your lessons. The pup must look forward to spending time with you and not avoid you by running away or hiding. Be sure to socialize the pup early. Socialization is one of the most important lessons. The pup must learn to be around other animals, people, sounds, vehicles, and other activities. So, slowly introduce the pup when he is little to everyday activities and sounds. Take him to the mall/ park, introduce him to children and other pets, and make him unafraid of the vacuum and garden hose.

Learn all about crate training, leash walking, house breaking, as well as food training. These are kindergarten lessons that every pup must master. Know about all the idiosyncrasies as well as peculiarities of the breed this will give you valuable insights on how to successfully train the pup.

As a pet-parent you have many choices. You could choose to train the dog yourself or register at a professional training school. Training a dog has many stages: kindergarten, obedience training, doggy sports, showing and conformation, as well as other aspects like therapy dogs, hearing dogs, and so on. What level you choose to train depends on you as well as the learning abilities of your dog. As you know, different dogs like humans have varied talents. Choose well and both you and your pup will have fun times together.

Paul Wilson is a freelance writer for http://www.1888Discuss.com/pet/ , the premier REVENUE SHARING discussion forum for Pet Forum including topics on pet health, pet care and nutrition, grooming pet at home, dog, cat's health issues and more. He also freelances for the premier Data Recovery site http://www.1888DataRecovery.com

Dog Kennel Plans

2009-02-24T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Jason Gluckman

While for most people, owning dogs is fun, it also poses many adjustments and careful arrangements. The challenge is even greater for those living in cities and urban areas. Dogs must be kept out of neighbors' lawns and off the streets. The solution is a well-though-out kennel unit.

Planning the Kennel

When building or buying a kennel, keep in mind several important considerations that will ensure your dogs' comfort and promote sanitation through ease of cleaning. You must have a plan that clearly outlines factors such as size of the kennel; where you will place it: does the location allow outside runs and exercises; ventilation and drainage systems; strength and kind of building materials; among others.

Size is an important consideration especially when you are keeping big dogs. The cage must be tall enough to provide considerable ceiling clearance as well as wide enough to allow the dogs to the sit or lay comfortably.

Location is the next thing important thing to consider. It will dictate the success of your project. If your main reason for building a kennel is to prevent your dogs form bothering your neighbors with their barking and smell, you must choose a location farthest from them. Tip: normally, you would not keep more than one dog in a cage to prevent aggressive or playful fights that will cause injuries to the dogs as well as noise. The kennel must also be able to open to a yard where you can release your dogs for exercise.

Your kennel must also allow convenience in carrying out sanitation procedures. It must have proper drainage for waste water and animal wastes. Ventilation is very important especially in hot seasons. There must be sufficient airflow to cool the dogs. But in colder seasons, you must shelter your pets form the harsh winds.

When planning a kennel, always put both your pets' comfort and your convenience foremost. Build the kennel with considerations you would keep in mind when building your own house.

Dog Kennels provides detailed information on Dog Kennels, Dog Kennel Plans, How To Build A Dog Kennel, Portable Dog Kennels and more. Dog Kennels is affiliated with Dog Agility Training.

Cats People And The Black Plague Those Who Kept Cats Survived

2009-02-23T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Lisa J. Lehr

In the long history of human-animals relationships, a few episodes stand out in which one species has made a significant contribution to the survival of another. Rarely do cats get credit for such an accomplishment--more often dogs or horses, and then, usually in times of war--but the Black Plague of Europe is one of those times.

By way of background, the ancient Romans, in their conquest of Egypt, had brought cats home to Europe. Cats subsequently suffered a period of disfavor during the superstitious Middle Ages, for they had become associated with witches and the Devil; some people believed black cats were witches in disguise, or that they assisted witches in performing their craft. Those who kept cats as pets were the objects of much suspicion, and widespread cat hunting led almost to their extinction.

When rats from Asia brought the bubonic plague to Europe via trading ships in the mid-1300s, the epidemic (variously known as the Black Plague, the Great Plague, the Black Death, and the Great Mortality) swept across the continent, resulting in devastating loss of human life. In all, one-third of the population of Europe--some 34 million people--died. In England alone, more than half the human population perished; in some parts of France, ninety percent.

It took the authorities some time to figure out the cause of the problem. At one point they tested the theory that the disease was being spread by dogs and cats; thus the mayor of London ordered the execution of all such pets. Despite the extermination of millions of companion animals, however, the plague did not abate but actually accelerated, for, of course, the elimination of all cats was soon followed by an explosion of the rat population.

Eventually it became evident that people who had kept cats, in violation of the law, fared better; for the cats, according to their nature, killed the rats that carried the fleas that really carried the plague. People slowly began to deduce the rat-flea-disease connection. When the truth finally came to light, cats were quickly elevated to hero status, and soon became protected by law.

The Great Plague ended when the fleas started dying, as a part of their natural life cycle, in the cold of fall and winter. Subsequent plagues would visit Europe over successive generations, and other continents suffered similar outbreaks; it would not be until the 19th century that scientists really began to understand the epidemiology of the plague. Increased sanitary conditions over time helped reduce its incidence, and with the discovery of antibiotics in the 20th century, the threat of the plague was greatly reduced.

Would it be a stretch to say that, by bringing the rodent population under control, cats saved humans from extinction? At least, European humans? At a minimum, cats deserve credit for heroically saving the species that, through ignorance, almost wiped them out.

(C)Lisa J. Lehr 2006

Lisa J. Lehr is a freelance writer and Internet marketer specializing in direct response and marketing collateral. She holds a biology degree and has worked in a variety of fields, including the pharmaceutical industry and teaching, and has a particular interest in health, pets, and conservative issues.
Please visit her blog at http://warmfuzziesanimalrescue.blogspot.com
If you're looking for a copywriter, her website is http://www.justrightcopy.com Just Right Copy-because words sell.

Protecting Your Poodle During Cold Weather

2009-02-22T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Sandy Riordan

Where I live in Georgia, the temperature very seldom gets below freezing, so protecting my Poodles against cold weather isn't much of an issue, although it does get chilly! If you live in the north, or somewhere else with the weather gets cold, it can pose a danger to your Poodles, so you'll need to take extra precautions to keep him or her warm, safe and comfortable.

If your Poodle is outside during the day like mine is while I'm at work, then you'll need to provide some kind of shelter from the weather. The kennel for my two Poodles has a roof over it to provide shade and to keep it dry. It also has shade cloth all around it which also provides shade, as well as protecting it from the wind. If the area where you live gets below freezing during the winter, then you should provide some kind of shelter with heat to protect it from the cold weather, preferably an insulated doghouse that is elevated off the ground. It should be water-proof and ideally have a door to help prevent drafts. It should just be big enough for the dog to stand and turn around. Make sure the bedding is clean and dry at all times.

If you're home most of the time, it's best to keep your Poodle indoors, especially if they are old or ill. In cold temperatures, your Poodle can experience hypothermia, even though they have lots of fur. This occurs when their body temperature falls extremely below their normal temperature of around 101 degrees.

During hypothermia, the metabolic rate is lowered and the organ functions can be affected. Hypothermia symptoms include shivering, weakness, breathing problems, sluggishness, coordination problems and sometimes paralysis. If you live in cold weather, you should become familiar with these symptoms. If you suspect hypothermia, keep your Poodle warm in a blanket and get him to the vet immediately.

When we lived in Scotland, we had English Cockers and used to take them hiking with us in the winter in the snow. Somehow, it never occurred to me that their feet could get frostbite with all that hair and thick pads on their feet! Well, was I wrong! My husband had to carry our female cocker most of the way back. She developed huge ice balls between the toes on her feet and her feet were really sore. Fortunately, there was no permanent damage. We never did that again!

If you are going to hike with your Poodle in cold weather, invest in a pair of boots for him. Also, cutting the hair between your dog's toes and applying Vaseline or cooling spray before your hike will keep the ice from sticking. Watch out for salt on the roads and sidewalks as well. This can hurt your Poodles feet if they are cracked fro the cold weather.

Frostbite is very bad news! It causes tissue death in cells. The areas that are most prone to frostbite are the most highly exposed areas on your Poodle, which include the feet, tail, ears, scrotum and mammary glands.

If your Poodle is outdoors during the day, he may eat more during the cold weather. This gives them more fuel to help keep them warm. Always give them access to fresh drinking water as well. Use a heated bowl if it is very cold, so the water won't freeze. If you want to and if your Poodle will tolerate it, you can put a sweater or coat on your dog. They have lots of fashionable designer ones available these days!

If you follow the steps above to prevent frostbite and hypothermia, your Poodle should tolerate the cold weather quite well.

Sandy Riordan Creator of the website - Standard Poodles USA Everything you need and want to know about Standard Poodles!

http://www.standardpoodlesusa.com

Your Dog Goes Missing

2009-02-21T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Kadence Buchanan

This article, serves as a guide to all dog-owners that wish not to experience the agony and distress of having to deal with the fact that their dog is gone missing. Just read carefully the tips that follow, keeping in mind that your best friend needs an owner who is capable of being proactive as well as encouraging it to catch, fetch, pull, tag and chew. The most important thing to remember is that if your dog gets lost, chances are that someone, somewhere, has seen it. Do not get discouraged and do not panic. Be aware and it is likely that you will be reunited with your beloved companion again, if you follow the instructions listed below and keep yourself organized and prepared at all times.

- Keep an action checklist in a visible location, along with the current phone numbers of emergency contacts, like individuals and organizations you will need to call in case of an emergency. Also keep a copy in your vehicle for when you are traveling.

- Of extreme importance is to keep with this list of contacts a current local street map. It can greatly assist your search in case you need to coordinate a search unit.

- Check frequently your dog to see that he wears his collar. Have a tag attached to the collar with the dog's name and your current home and/or cell phone number. Additionally, always have a current rabies tag and pet license tag attached to your dog's collar. You can find it again sooner by using the engraved tag numbers.

- However, dogs can loose their collars on the streets. For real security, consider putting a microchip implant to your dog and register the chip's number with one of the available registries of your area. If your dog gets stolen or lost and gets dumped or found it can be identified through its microchip ID number. Permanent identification, either that is in the form of a microchip or tattoo, is also useful in case you ever have to prove to law that this dog is indeed yours and you are the one they should return it to.

- Prior to having to deal with any unfortunate event, register your dog to the available services of your area. In most cases registration can be completed online and you will save precious time if something actually happens.

- Ensure you have recent and reliable color photos of your dog that show clearly all your dogs' characteristics, so that you can make a big publicity fuss and make it extremely difficult for thieves to try to keep your dog. Taking pictures annually (maybe something to do on the dog's birthday), is a must. You need to photograph your dog's head and body from different angles (top, front, head shot, side-on, standing, etc.). Focus especially on any special markings your dog might carry.

- Write a simple and clear description of your dog and have it stored in computer's memory-along with the most recent set of photographs-in order to create posters/flyers and publish its disappearance.

- Search in advance and save the webpages of your local animal control authorities for immediate retrieval. This can assist you to immediately publicize its disappearance online through the multiple online services.

- Maintain your garden fence to keep it dog-proof and check frequently the locks on your doors and windows in order to be sure that your dog is safely confined when you leave it alone in the house.

- Guard your dog in your garden and runs. Never allow your dog to roam free in an unfamiliar neighborhood. Leash it at all times. If a dog gets loose in an unfamiliar area its chances of ever finding its way home are particularly small.

- Do not leave your dog tied up outside shops, gyms, classrooms, offices, etc., and do not leave your dog unattended inside your vehicle.

- Be wary of strangers expressing an interest in your dog. Watch out for suspicious characters. You do not have to become overprotective, but at least you have to be aware of the risks. Remember that your dog is your responsibility. Do not leave it to be taken care from friendly strangers.

- If you think you are being followed, do not go straight back home. Try visiting a friend's or neighbor's house, who does not own a dog. Stay at your friend's or neighbor's house for at least half an hour so as to give to the stalker the impression that the house you entered is where the dog actually lives.

Kadence Buchanan writes articles on many topics including Pets, Shopping, and Kids and Teens

Household Dangers For Dogs

2009-02-20T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Mary Casey

What does chocolate, grapes and calla lilies have in common? They are all potentially deadly for your dog.

When you first get your new dog, you are usually aware of the basic needs of a bowl for fresh water available at all times, dog gates to prevent accidents from falling down stairs, or to isolate the new dog in a safe environment. Are you aware, however, of other, common household items that could be seriously harmful to your pet?

Household plants are beautiful to look at but can injure or even kill your dog if ingested. Some of the more common deadly houseplants include :

1) The philodendron. All parts of this common houseplant are poisonous. If eaten, this plant can cause swelling of the mouth and throat and damage the kidneys. If your dog eats enough, it could kill him. This plant is poisonous for children, also.

2) Peace lilies, calla lilies, and pothos can have the same deleterious effects as the philodendron.

3) Some plants used for live holiday decorations can be deadly. The yew bush produces beautiful red berries which can lead to seizures, coma and even death if eaten. Mistletoe berries are toxic for animals. They cause diarrhea, vomiting, pain, and could make your dog loose consciousness and comatose. Use artificial decorations; they'll last longer and your pets will be safer.

4) Poinsettia: There has been much controversy over this plant and whether or not it is poisonous for dogs. It can cause mouth irritation and stomach pain, so why have it within reach of your dog?

5) Dumb Cane: A pretty green plant, known for its foliage, this plant should be known to dog owners for its ability to seriously injure your pet. The dumb cane can cause mouth irritation, stomach upset, asphyxiation, seizures and death.

We always love to give our dogs little bites or treats of human food, but sometimes food that is fine for humans to eat can be deadly for dogs.

1) Chocolate: Chocolate has an ingredient called theobromine, which can cause epileptic seizures in dogs prone to seizures, or it could cause the heart to go into an abnormal rhythm leading to a heart attack, or even internal bleeding from intestinal irritation which can lead to death. The amount of chocolate eaten, and the size of the dog will determine the outcome.

2) Grapes and Raisins: Dogs can choke on grapes and asphyxiate Raisins and grapes are also poisonous for dogs.

3) Onions and Garlic:: If eaten raw, onions or garlic can cause the red blood cells to break down, leading to hemolytic anemia.

4) Nuts: Nuts are not good for dogs to eat. Walnuts are poisonous and other nuts can lead to bladder stones.

The new dog owner needs to be aware of the dog's environment and control potential dangers. This list is by no means all inclusive, and the responsible dog owner will check with his vet for complete information on making your home a safe one for your dog.

Important: Please consult your own vet or pet professional before using any advice!

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Mary Casey is an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ which is a site for Writers.

Rabbit As Pet

2009-02-19T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Amanda Gates

Rabbits are one of the most popular pets, apart from dogs and cats. They look attractive, lovely, gentle, friendly and cute. They are easy to take care and undemanding in terms of care and housing. They will settle well either indoor or outdoor, at home.

There are 40 species of rabbits and hares worldwide. All domesticated rabbits are originated from European rabbits. The scientific name for domestic rabbit is Oryctolagus cuniculus.

Typically, domesticated rabbits weigh between 2.2-221lb (1-10kg). The domesticated rabbits can be fed on commercially produced rabbit food, pellets, hay, green food, root vegetables, tree bark, herbs and apple.

The gestation period of a rabbit is 31 days and the typical litter size ranges from 6-8 young. The lifespan varies with breed.

Keeping a rabbit as pet requires a good training system to prevent unnecessary destructions or hassle. For example, furniture and carpet chewing problems, pseudo pregnancy symptoms, litter problems, fights, behavioral problems, rabbit-house worries, sickness, fleas, predators and etc. Nevertheless, these challenges can be overcome when the owners have the knowledge and experience to deal with them. Thus, one of the recommended ways to acquire the important knowledge is to read widely and exchange practical information with experienced rabbit owners.

It is important to watch out for any abnormalities in your rabbits as rabbits are susceptible to various digestive ailments and other life-threatening diseases. For example, rabbits are vulnerable to myxomatosis and VHD viruses. These are the killer viruses!

There is no universal system of classification for rabbit breeds. Some popular breeds of rabbits include:

· Alaska
· American Fuzzy Lop
· American Sable
· Angora
· Belgian Hare
· Beveren
· Californian
· Champagne D'Argent
· Checkered Giant
· Chinchilla
· Dutch
· Dwarf Hotot
· English Lop
· Flemish Giant
· Florida White
· Harlequin
· Havana
· Himalayan
· Hotot
· Jersey Wooly
· Lilac
· Holland Lop
· Mini Lop
· Mini Rex
· Netherland Dwarf
· New Zealand
· Palomino
· Polish
· Rex
· Rhinelander
· Satin
· Silver
· Silver Fox
· Silver Marten
· Tan

Yours Sincerely,
Amanda Gates,
http://www.rabbitinfo.careforpet-rabbit.com

The Symptoms Of Canine Diabetes

2009-02-18T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Rose Smith

It can take a while for us humans to suspect that we may have diabetes and go in for tests. It's much harder for us to spot the symptoms of diabetes in dogs. The disease tends to sneak up and the symptoms will often go unnoticed until the disease has become quite advanced. Here are some things you should always watch for in your dog and take them to a vet to be tested if you suspect that your dog may have developed canine diabetes.

**Canine Diabetes Symptoms To Watch For**

Drinking a Lot of Water

Although it's natural for your dog to be thirstier in the summer or after a bit of rambunctious exercise, excessive drinking throughout the day and that continues for several days can be a sign of diabetes. If you notice that you're having to fill the water bowl more often, you may want to have your dog tested for canine diabetes. Other diseases may also cause an increase in thirst as well, so having a veterinarian check your pet is a good idea.

Urinating a Lot

It stands to reason, if your dog is drinking more, then they're going to be wanting outside a lot more too. So, although you may not notice the increased water intake right away (as it can be very gradual), you'll certainly be made aware of the increased need to urniate (think revolving door).

Your Dog May Develop "Sweet Breath"

Most of us dog owners will complain of a dog's "bad breath", so you'll most likely notice if the breath takes on a "sweet" smell. This is a sign that your dog's blood sugar levels have risen to high and need to be brought under control.

Shaking

No, we're not talking about how a dog shakes after they get wet. This is a subtle shaking/shivering that accompanies hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and is very serious. If this symptom appears, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately as it is very serious and your might require an injection of insulin.

Weakness and Tiredness

Your dog may also appear weak and very tired most days. If your normally active dog suddenly develops these symptoms over the course of a few days, have them tested for diabetes.

Loss of Weight

Normally, being overweight can bring on canine diabetes, but sometimes a dog will begin to steadily lose weight instead. Regardless of whether this is from the onset of diabetes or not, you need to get your dog to a veterinarian right away for tests to rule out any other type of serious disease.

About the Author:

(c) 2005. Rose Smith is the owner of Caring For Canines and invites you to explore the benefits of holistic dog medicines and remedies. To read more about dog-related health problems and advice, please visit: http://www.caringforcanines.com/articles-health-problems.shtml

How To Buy The Right Dog Food For Your Pit Bull Terrier

2009-02-17T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Tim Amherst

Knowing exactly which dog food to buy for your Pit Bull terrier can be confusing. There are countless options available when you go to the store and many of them are very unhealthy choices. Dog food is offered in packets, cans, or large bags. Dog foods that are mass prepared can be high in quality and well balanced, it is important that you buy the best you can afford. Most of the larger dog food companies maintain testing laboratories that check for quality and nutritional value.

Basically, there are three different types of dog food.

1. Dry food
2. Semi moist food
3. Canned food.

Dry foods are made up of roughly ten percent water. The raw ingredients used to make dry dog food differs greatly from brand to brand, so stick with a higher quality food.

These dry foods are generally less expensive when compared to semi-moist and canned foods. This is beneficial if you own several dogs or have one that eats more than the typical canine. You can also purchase dry dog food in bulk quantities and store them for several weeks. Storing dry dog foods for too long may reduce the nutritional value of it however.

Semi-moist foods contain more water than dry foods, typically in the range of 25%. Semi moist dog food is usually offered in the form of chunks of meat or simulated hamburger. Given the choice, most dogs prefer semi moist foods over dry foods, however these foods aren't as good for a dog's dental health.

Canned foods are the most popular choice of dog food and it is available in two different forms. The first kind of canned food has a cereal component, making it a complete diet. The second type has a meat only component that doesn't give the dog a very balanced diet unless something like a dog biscuit is given in addition to the bowl of food.

No matter what you choose to feed your dog, be sure to follow the feeding instructions on the packaging as they differ greatly. Don't overfeed your Pit Bull by feeding him extra large portions or extra meals throughout the day and be sure to get your dog out for his daily walk.

To learn all about raising an American Pit Bull Terrier and training Pit Bulls, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Nutrition And Your Dogs Behavior

2009-02-16T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Jeanne Perciaccanto

Nutrition and Your Dog's Behavior

Proper nutrition is the fundamental basis for every aspect of your dog's life.

It affects their health and longevity by offering an essential balance of proteins, fats, complex carbohydrates and the trace nutrients and minerals their bodies need for growth, repair and the mantainance of a sound immunne system.

Nutrition is a complex and integral part of your dog's ability to think clearly, lower stress levels and produce a calmer behavior.

Thinking takes a lot of energy. Dogs invoved in a training program, expend tremendous amounts of mental energy focusing on the tasks presented to them. If your dog starts with minimal nutrition, they become lethargic, edgy or hyper active when asked to perform the simplest of tasks. They cannot focus and loss concentration after a short period of time or become confused. If the dog is continually asked to do something they cannot comprehend, confusion can lead to an aggressive form of acting out.

In training dogs, the first thing I look at is the dog's diet! I work from the inside out. Training becomes ineffective if the underlying caiuse for the behaviors are not changed.

Hyper, unfocused and out of control dogs often eat foods with high levels of cereal compounds such as: wheat, corn and corn meal.

Aggressive dogs eat foods contain higher levels of incomplete protein which produce excessive amounts of energy. These proteins are often incomplete chains, not offering proper building and repair or may be difficult to digest.

Shy or stressed dogs do not digest their foods well at all and can suffer from intestinal complications such as diarrhea. Their coats are often dry, brittle and shed heavily.

One way to test the foods you are feeding is to soak the food in water for about 30 minutes. If it swells in size and becomes mushy, it is primarily cereal.

Are your dog's stool soft and loose or is the dog gassy? If so, they are not digesting the food properly.

By looking at their food, you will do more to help balance their behavior, as well as, contribute to their health and longevity.

Life Abundance offeres the best combination of balanced nutrients for a proper diet.

The proteins are complete chains and digest easily.

The carbohydrates are complex and do not turn into simple sugars producing energy swings of high and low behaviors.

The Probiotics in the food balance the intestinal tract and make the food digest more easily, which is perfect for the nervous or shy dog and ensures all dogs are recieving the nutrients they need from the food.

Jeanne Perciaccanto is a certified Dog Trainer at http://www.ultimatedogtraining.com and Health Educator.

Information on food can found at http://www.healthydogfood.net

Jeanne Perciaccanto has been a professional dog trainer for twenty years at, http://www.ultimatedogtraining.com and holds a degree in Health. She has combined both disciplines and researches diet and nutrition as it pertains to canine behavior. Visit http://www.healthydogfood.net

Pickingout The Perfect Dog Breed

2009-02-15T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by James Johnson

Here are some important thoughts and/or questions you should have in your mind before you go out & bring home your new dog, first off I will pull no punches in this regard of owning a new dog. It is a lot of work at first; here is an example, every time the new pup wakes up from a nap he or she will need to go pee and off you go outside. This new dog will be with you for the next 10 to 15 years at least. Also, this new dog can and will be a loyal, faithful and devoted companion. Bringing a dog into your home is an important step for you and/or your family. There are many breeds to choose from, how do you manage to make a decision on which one breed is best suited for you? With a little thought, you can nail down the selections & find the best-suited dog breed by following a few simple steps.

Foremost, how much space do you have. Many people tend to forget this factor. Ask yourself how much space do you have in your home. It should be the primary factor to consider before picking the dog breed. If you and/or your family live in a tiny apartment, you will want to refrain from getting a large dog. Look for dogs in the Toy group, such as Yorkshire Terriers, or Some of the smaller dogs in the Terrier group, like the Miniature Schnauzer.

With that said, if you have children, you have to think about the size of the dog, as well. Very small dogs, such as Chihuahuas or Maltese, can be very frail & are occasionally accidentally injured by very tiny children. But then, very prominent dogs, such as Boxers or the Saint Bernard, can be overly rumbustious as puppies & can inadvertently turn your infant into a human bowling pin. Consider average sized breeds, such as Fox Terriers or Lhasa Apsos, as an alternative. It's best to consider the children rather than your own preference.

The next thing is, can you give your new dog any exercise. If you have a residence with a fenced yard, your domestic dog will be able to get some physical exercise on his own. But, dog breeds in the Sporting, Hound, & Herding groupings are very high-energy animals & you will need to have enough time to provide them with more intensive physical exercise. Plan to take a great deal of long strolls with your new hound or go for a day-after-day romp in the park. Let's think about it, these new dog breeds were bred to work hard and don't do well unless they have a job to do or a way to burn off excess energy.

Finally, don't forget to look at grooming demands. Some domestic dog breeds only need a little more than a half hour or so of grooming a week, while others call for to be groomed for around a little more than an hour a day. So let's think about it, if you are short on time, don't buy a Poodle or a Maltese, unless, of course, you plan to take your new hound for a groom. Breeds like Boston Terriers or Whippets are fine choices for busy people who don't have time to do a lot of grooming. Boiled down, the best dog breed is the one that fits the kind of life the future owner has.

Lastly, Most people choose their dog breed because each person has their own pre-conceived idea of what he or she wants in a dog. Sometimes its just the physical attributes of the dog, like the size, the shape of the face and/or the overall looks. Do yourself a favor and do not forget the above simple steps.

After you make up your mind on which breed of new puppy you want, you will need to consider the age of the new puppy. Many individuals opt to buy a cuddly little puppy instead of an older new hound. While puppies have not acquired any bad habits, it will be up to the new owner to be sure that the puppy becomes housebroken and obedience trained.

Whilst you've specified the breed options and have determined which new dog is right for you, don't get too relaxed. After all, you still have a single more important choice to make, what to name your new puppy!

James Johnson, the author of this article, discovers and presents information so you can become knowedgeable, in the subjects you are searching for. I hope you find this article helpful. Your choice for a dog breed is many. For more infomative articles and pictures of differant breeds, to help you with your dog breed choice go to dog breeds or http://choose-your-dog-breed.info

Puppy Training For Healthier Smarter Dogs

2009-02-14T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Trevor Mulholland

Ignoring the necessity of puppy training could lead to a whole bunch of problems in the future. For one thing, housebreaking needs to be done as soon as possible, for your household's hygiene - and your dog's as well. Also, training your puppy more basic things like not going out into the street in busy traffic, or keeping away from poisonous creatures like rattlesnakes, could well save your puppy's life!

If you want your puppy to grow up to be strong and smart, let puppy training begin at an early age. One of the first things you should remember is that "positive reinforcement" - also known as "reward training" - is considered more effective on dogs than the old-fashioned physical punishment techniques. So keep a bag of treats handy, for giving to your pup when he accomplishes important tasks. You also need to have the right equipment and supplies handy, like crates, collars, and toys for your pet to get accustomed to.

Obedience should be the first thing to teach your puppies; agility or speed training could come at the same time, or even later. It's important that your young pets know who's the boss, and have absolute faith in you. Using treats and frequent praise as rewards for jobs well done is a great way to build up your pet's trust in you. Like other animals, even human beings, dogs become fonder of their companions if their companions make them feel good about themselves. It's important to express to your puppy what you feel after he performs his actions, so he quickly learns which things please or displease you.

One of the most important lessons to teach your puppy is housebreaking. Some pet owners use crates for this task. Crates can be bought in pet stores, at different sizes, so you can upgrade the size of your crate as your puppy grows - the important thing is that you use a crate that's only big enough for your puppy to stand up and turn around in. Different pet owners have different ideas about how to use a crate for housebreaking, but there's only one advisable way: when you see signs that your puppy is about to urinate or defecate inside the house, keep your puppy in his crate for a moment. Then release him and immediately open the door so he could go out to do his "thing."

Remember that as a rule, dogs don't dirty up the places where they like to eat or sleep. So your puppy is sure not to dirty up his crate, especially if he thinks of it as a sort of play area. Don't let your puppy think of the crate as a cage! Keep a toy in the crate or lure your puppy in with treats, to encourage this point of view.

New dog owners may be daunted by the task, but puppy training is not as hard as you think. Look up training tips on the web, or ask your vet for advice. It's sure to make the process of growing up with your puppy worthwhile!

Puppy-train.com provides you with information on puppy training, dog barking, dog training collars, dog training schools, dog grooming supplies and homemade dog treats. Go to http://www.puppy-train.com/

The Love Between Dog And Human

2009-02-13T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Phyllis Benton

I got candy girl when she was six weeks old. I wanted a pure breed black lab but there didn't seem to be any available at the time. I called to answer an ad for some mix lab puppies. I went to look at the puppies but heart really wasn't in it. As I looked at the puppies, Candy kept crawling up on my sneakers. I would move away from her as I still did not know which, if any, that I wanted. She continued to follow me and would climb back up on my shoes. After several times of moving and her returning, I picked her up to look at her closer. As I did, I made the decision to take her home with me. I felt that she chose to be with me.

We made a game of feeding her. Her dry food had a variety of colors in it. I would pick out a certain color and feed it to her calling it meat, vegetable, and cheese. She was fascinated, like a child, with the game. I fed her piece by piece until she had had enough. I gave her some can dog food a few times a week and fed her with a spoon. She loved the attention.

She became my best friend. We played together and worked together. When I had raked leaves or put limps off trees that had fallen off trees, on a tarp, she would grab one end in the front and help me drag it to the pile we had for burning. She also helped me when I planted flowers or bulbs. She would either run off with the containers or dig up the flowers or bulbs as soon as I got them in the ground.

She loved to go to the neighbors homes to see what she could bring home. She brought trash, baby dolls, stuffed animals and food. Once the back yard was white with the fiber fill from a huge stuffed animal she stole and tore apartif you tried to take it from her she would run or swallow it. I learned how to sneak up on her if it was something that I knew. if swallowed, may harm her.

Candy loved the water so I got her a baby pool to play in. She loved it and would get in and lie down to cool off in the hot summer days. She would sneak down to the creek to get wet and muddy when no one was looking. Sometimes she would bring home a gift for Mommy. That included rats, mice and once she brought home a possum. She put the possum in her swimming pool and then came wagging her tail for me to come and see. I figure she was making sure it was dead by drowning if not already.

She comes in to wake me in the night if she hears any sort of a beeping noise or something that doesn't sound right. Candy is nine now. I can't begin to tell you all the stories about her and our lives together. She is my best buddy. I can't imagine ever loosing her.

Coco came about after we lost Bubba at the age of seven to a brain tumor. He was abandon at four and was going to the dog pound. I rescued him and brought him home. He is a whole other story.

Back to Coco. Candy needed a companion again after her mourning time of six months. She was ready to have a new house hold member again. I didn't think she, or me, needed a have a puppy to train. Both of us were getting to old for that. Candy needed a dog a bit older so I got on the Internet and looked at shelters, rescue shelters until I found the dog I thought perfect for her. He was a lab mix. His name was Coco. I got in touch with the rescue shelter and was told that he had already been adopted. It was very disappointing. I contacted another woman who told me of another rescue shelter. We went to see the dogs available for adoption after being told they had a mix breed lab about a year old. At the shelter we were introduced to a young dog, kind of skinny, male, mixed breed. His name was also Coco. It didn't dawn on me at the time until after Candy thought him to be okay, she went with us, and signed the adoption papers, that it was the same dog as was on the Internet. It seemed as though we were supposed to have him.

Coco got out every toy from the toy box when in the house. He played with each and every one of them. He was full of energy and he was very bossy. He would push Candy out of the way when she would try to get close to us. He wanted all the attention.

We learned of his fear of the thunder storms after the first one that came after bringing him home. We were asleep and I woke to the sound of a scratching sound in the bathroom. We have a Hugh garden tub with no surround in the front, just a small edge. He was standing, all fours, on the top of the tub, shaking all over. I can't even imagine how he got up there. I lifted the 73 pound dog down and closed the door to the bathroom. The vet gave us some tranquilizers to give him before the storms to calm him. I have lost many hours sleep with him and storms. Coco is extremely intelligent and eager to learn. He is so affectionate. He will lay his head in my lap and go sound asleep. He loves to be kissed.

These dogs are my family, my kids, and couldn't imagine life without them. I talk about all my dogs in my new book, Living Nightmares of Abuse. http://www.pdbenton.org My book is available at http://www.publishamerica.com and on any on line book store. Check your book store for listings.

How To Groom A Bird

2009-02-12T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Grant Carroll

Just like dogs and cats, birds also require grooming to maintain optimum health and happiness. The basic essentials to bird grooming are wing clipping, nail clipping, beak filing, preening and bathing.

Wing clipping is one of the most important parts of bird grooming. Not only does it help prevent the bird from flying away or flying into something and hurting itself, it helps the taming process and builds a bond between bird and owner. Be sure, however, that an alternative form of exercise is available since they will no longer be able to fly easily. Big cages and play pens are great for a bird to walk and climb around. The best method for wing clipping is to clip the outer primaries of both wings below the level of the primary coverts. When the new feathers grow in after a few months, wait until they are completely mature before clipping again. New feathers contain a pulp of blood vessels and nerves that will cause profuse bleeding and pain for the bird if clipped.

Nail clipping is essential for both the bird's and the owner's comfort. The bird won't enjoy walking around on long nails and it will be uncomfortable for the owners arm skin if the bird decides to perch there. Be sure not to wait too long before clipping so that the quick doesn't get any longer. Don't cut the quick or just as in dogs there will be a lot of pain and bleeding.

Grant Carroll proud father of four dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters

Visit Elizabeth Austin Wholesale for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies

Strengthening The Human Dog Bond

2009-02-11T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Jack Hartley

There is no doubt that it is a joy to see a well trained dog. A dog that has been trained is well mannered and can be relied upon to stay calm in even the most distracting of environments.

Statistics also show that a well trained dog is far more likely to have a home for life, usually with the same owner. Well trained dogs do not tend to end up abandoned and living at the local rescue centre.

If we draw the comparison to any relationship in our life the most successful ones we have are those where there are clear boundaries; where each party to the relationship knows and understands what behaviour is acceptable and what is not. By training a dog, the owner is teaching the animal where the boundaries of acceptable behaviour are and this in turn means that the dog is no longer a liability or an embarrassment to the owner.

There is no reason why owners should not train their dogs at home or by attending classes. For some of the less teachable dogs, there are even boot camps available. The key to successful training wherever it takes place is a consistency in approach. The owner, or the trainer, must determine what acceptable behaviour is and consistently reward the dog when that behaviour is demonstrated. Equally, unacceptable behaviour must not be rewarded.

If you do not want your dog to sleep on your couch he must never sleep on your couch. Keeping him off the couch is not to be reserved for training sessions. It is very easy to separate training sessions from every day life but it is essential that the training continues so the dog is absolutely clear about what is expected of him (or her).

Dogs have no way of differentiating between training lessons and everyday life and for the owner to demonstrate inconsistent behaviour just leads to confusion for the dog.

You will want to train your dog to be sociable without making the first move. Whilst you as the owner may not mind your dog climbing all over you, there are many people who will not feel the same way. It is important that your dog learns that it is not acceptable to jump up to greet people if he or she does this with a child it could result in an inadvertent injury.

It is important that your dog learns to behave well when socializing with other dogs. There is nothing worse than having a dog that can never be released from the leash simply because the owner cannot trust him or her around other dogs.

Few people are lucky enough to live in an area where dogs can be walked off the leash all the time. For this reason it is important that your dog is trained to walk nicely on the leash without pulling.

The 'sit' 'stay' 'down' commands do nothing more than teach your dog obedience they reinforce boundaries and go a long way to ensuring that your dog will comply with your instructions.

The number of dogs that end up in rescue centres and are ultimately destroyed every year is a tragedy caused in the main by irresponsible dog owners. If you are going to take a dog into your home please view it as a long term commitment and understand that the dog will need to be taught to please you.

The rewards of taking the time to train your dog are immense; A strong human dog bond that lasts a lifetime.

Jack Hartley is passionate about dogs and provides a wealth of free information and resources for dog owners to encourage them to learn more about their dog in order that they might forge a strong bond with their pet. He can be found at http://www.just-about-dogs.com He also posts regular musings at his blogspot http://justaboutdogs.blogspot.com

The Joy Of Having A Cat As A Pet

2009-02-10T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Steve Hill

In this article, I write about the pleasures of having a cat as a pet. It took quite a long time for my wife to persuade me into letting her have a cat, but we now have three. I would certainly recommend other people to give a cat a home as they are no trouble at all and add lots of value and love to the household.

Looking back I am not really sure why I was so against having a cat as a pet. It was not for the financial reasons of buying the cat food as it is not exactly expensive. I suppose I thought that they would ruin some of the furniture or may even pooh and wee on the floor. This has not been the case and thinking about it, I was being rather stupid, as you no doubt agree.

This is the daily schedule of our three cats. They wake up in the dining room which is now basically the cats room. They are then fed and eat their breakfast. In this dining or cats room, we have put litter trays down for them, but it is very rare that they use them. The cats then go out of the house for a while and a little bit later can usually be seen sunbathing in the garden, that is if the weather is good of course.

At around twelve midday the cats then come in for some lunch, yet more cat food. I often wonder how they do not get bored eating the same type of food, day in, day out. They will then sleep somewhere around the house for the next few hours before asking to be let out to do their business.

At around 5pm they have some more food and then decide to become a little more sociable. They would then normally join the family in the main living room and curl up to sleep some more, normally on somebodys lap. Each cat is quite funny as they seem to have a favourite member of the family whose lap they would prefer to sit and sleep on. My two children really love our cats especially during the evenings.

The three cats will then wonder out again at around 10pm before asking to come back in around an hour later.

What a life this is, if I am able to come back to this planet after I die, I would like to come back as a cat please.

The cats have really been no trouble at all and we are planning to let both of our children have their very own cat to look after, for Christmas.

For the record if any of you are interested out there, our current cats are called, Tom, Ben and Pip. They all get on really well together and very rarely fight.

Maybe I am just lucky but when talking about the subject of cats with my family and friends, they all tell similar stories to mine.

I have now agreed to owning a dog. Her name is Cassie and even though she requires a lot more attention as in the way of walks, she has also been a dream. In my opinion however you can not beat the cats and their lifestyle.

Stephen Hill helps to promote a number of websites including:

stammering advice

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How To Teach A Dog To Heel

2009-02-09T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Anthony Lee

If you are a dog owner and would like to train your dog, one of the simplest and easiest commands for the dog to learn is the "heel" command. What is to heel for the dog? This means that when successful, the dog will walk alongside its owner at a proper distance, not too far ahead, and not too far behind, usually just matching your stride. You might be asking, how do I teach my dog to heel? Here are a few tips:

1. With your dog at your left side, instruct him to face the same way you are facing. Make a simple point with your finger to the direction you want him to face along with a little prodding and you should be fine.

2. Prepare the dog's favorite food (a piece of meat, hamburger, etc.) and hold it in front of him. The dog will usually try to take the food from your hand, but you mustn't give it to him just yet; try to hold him off for a little while.

3. Say the word "heel" and start taking a few steps forward, while keeping the food in front of him, just barely out of his reach. If he does not obey, try to entice him some more. This would require some patience on your part. If the dog obeys and starts walking, don't neglect to give him some praise and good words. Playing a bit with his hair, patting him, giving him a toy to play with, and other forms of showing your dog some love would be a good thing too.

4. Keep doing this routine in short intervals throughout the day for a period of time, until the dog learns the command "heel". Results will vary depending on the dog. Some will take days, others weeks, some others even months. It is important that you, as a dog owner, will persevere and keep your patience as this process goes on.

5. As a final tip, try not to use a leash in training the dog. It is recommended that you use his favorite food and positive words and actions during the training process. Enjoy!

Should you being a dog owner follow these tips properly, you will be satisfied when the positive results come out after some time. Patience and perseverance are two traits that need to be properly stressed in this training routine.

Realize that it will take time for your dog to fully understand your command. Realize that it will take time for your dog to obey; many times, dogs are just plain stubborn.

Do not lose hope in teaching your dog to heel, instead try to have fun and enjoy that additional time spent with man's best friend.

To learn more tips on training your dog, please visit http://www.Dog-Training-Techniques.info/

Labour And Delivery In Queens

2009-02-08T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Cerianwen Ball

A normal pregnancy will take around 9 weeks before labour, this is the time you should be making preparations for labour and giving your Queen a little extra attention.

Make sure that she is well fed and has plenty of fluids, a quiet area to rest and try to handle her as little as possible. Your queen may become a little agitated and restless, but she will find herself a rest place and try to relax as much as she can.

It is common for nest boxes to be used and should be placed where your queen opts to rest. This will become more apparent as the pregnancy matures. I tend to opt for a layer of towels for her to lay on which allows the queen to stretch out and relax whilst also allowing space for me to be at her side and aid her if needed at the birth.

When she is ready to give birth you will notice that your queen will become more restless, will pace and start to pant, she may also try drawing your attention by crying and pacing near you until you follow her to her nest site. Labour can last several hours so patience is important. You may notice a thin filmy mucus near her vaginal area and she will begin to have contractions.

Birthing time varies from queen to queen, a kitten can be born every 15 minutes or so or can take several hours, it is also important to note that up to 40% of births are breech and are considered normal and although it is a stressful time as long as the queen is comfortable and is not in distress the birth should be normal.

The kitten is born in a soft and delicate sac which encompasses the placenta which is born either along with the kitten or separate. When the kitten is pushed through the birth canal the queen will immediately start to lick the kitten around the mouth and nose tearing the thin sac and expelling the yellowy fluid inside. This washing stimulates the kitten and it should start to cry and breath, she will then proceed to chew through the umbilical cord leaving a small piece attached to the kitten before eating the placenta. Do not worry if your queen does not do this do not worry, all queens are different. The placenta is said to contain nutrients valuable to queen in her first days of nurturing her kittens. However if the queen does not start the licking process automatically then take a warm damp cloth and gently wipe at the sac then around the nose and mouth area yourself, take the kitten gently with its head resting in the fork between your fingers and rub with a towel to warm, dry and stimulate the kitten.

Some take the kittens as soon as the queen is settled and place the newborn in a nursing box, I tend to leave the kittens with the queen until they are all delivered unless there are complications as the kittens nursing can sometimes stimulate contractions for the next kitten to be born.

When all the kittens are born place then gently in a snug nursing box and ensure the queen knows where they are being taken. I tend to place the nursing box as close to the birthing area as possible so that the tired queen does not have far to go to be with her kittens and is less likely to take them to a new area. It is important that the queen remains with her kittens so that they can be kept warm and well fed. If however your queen does not do this, microwave a towel so that it is gently heated but not hot and place under the box, this will temporarily keep the kittens warm until the queen enters the box.

The kittens will feed until their bellies are full and will sleep and eat for the first few days without much movement. The kittens are born blind and will not open their eyes for several days, until this time the queen remains with her kittens and keeps them warm and safe leaving only for food and to litter. During these first few days the queen will wash the kittens and will clean up after their messes herself.

If at any time during labour or during the first few days after the birth you notice any complications do not hesitate to contact your local vet who will be able to offer advice and support.

Cerianwen is an author of poetry, children's stories and articles. She has an interest in and has four cats with many years experience of caring for and breeding. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Muzzle Your Dog

2009-02-07T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Jon Dunkerley

In a world filled with over 100 breeds of dogs, finding the right one for you can be quite a challenge. Being able to research the different characteristics brought to the table by different dogs, can be fun as well as mis-guiding. Talking to trainers and so called experts in a dog related field is confusing to say the least as they all have differing opinions on anything from training and behavior, to nutrition and well being.

A topic of conversation that is however an issue agreed on by all is the fact that dog attacks in our country are at a level of occurrence that is startling, and it is up to us the dog owners to rectify this unsettling trend before we develop an era in which dogs of all breeds are shunned.

The biggest concern that I have is that people do not do the research before attaining a dog. Different breeds of dogs bring different attributes to the table, and by not familiarizing ourselves with what these attributes are, we are potentially inviting trouble to come our way.

The issue of dog "danger lists" has become quite relevant as of late due to the large amount of dog attacks in the last year or so. The sad thing is that this could and still can be prevented. The stupidist thing people tell me is that their dog would never do that! Do what exactly? Eat garbage, pee in the house, attack an innocent person or fellow canine?

I must admit that I am one of those people myself, however owning a Labrador Retriever, the burden of responsibility for me is not the same as it is for somebody acquiring or already owning a breed of dog that is known to be potentially dangerous.

The next question is how do we know which dogs are potentially dangerous? The answer to this is simple:

Dog attacks have been occurring in our society for as long as man has been in existence: and however all not reported, the fact that they are occurring in the first place tells us that we maybe trying to hard to domesticate our four-legged friends. Researching dog attacks that have been reported over the last 5 years, will lead you to the conclusion that their are 4 to 5 main pure or mix breeds of dogs listed as the attack dog. Back yard breeders do nothing to help the situation. Breeding dogs specifically to fight, or simply for the fun of watching two dogs mate, is a sure sign of the irresponsibility that we, supposedly the know-it-all race have shown and our continuing to show on a daily basis.

So what do we do to ensure that the number of dog attacks goes down instead of continuing to rise? By swallowing our egos and concerning ourselves with the safety of others instead of displaying stubborn determination to ensure that our dogs live as carefree as possible.

Solution

- Muzzle your dog in public I cant tell you how angry I get at people when they tell me that they don't muzzle their dog because the dog doesn't like it! Dogs do not have the same thought capability as us humans. Ramifications do not concern the dog, it is the owner that has to deal with resulting behavior from their pet. Your dog may have a biting incident and forget about it a second later, where as you the handler, are left with the resulting traumatic situation whatever that may be.

The fact that your dog does not like wearing a muzzle should be irrelevant! By fussing frantically when you attempt to put the muzzle on your dog, the dog is obviously showing discomfort and stubbornness. Eventually tossing the muzzle aside and commencing your walk without it, is the worst thing you could possibly do! By doing this, you are telling your dog that if he fusses long and hard enough, he will eventually brake you! This is a terrible habit to get into because it in turn leads to other negative behaviors developing due to you, the owner's inconsistency in asserting the pack leadership with your dog.

We all know that the best way to avoid STD'S is to practice abstinence. Although this practice can be hard for some, it does attain the desired result, which is STD free. When you put a muzzle on your dog, put the muzzle on your dog! Act like it is a normal everyday event. Do not fuss over your dog, and do not give in to his persistent struggle to free himself. If the dog senses that you will crack if he puts up enough of a fuss, then he has already won. Putting the muzzle on your dog should be understood by your dog as a fact of life. Wearing a muzzle does not in anyway hurt your dog. What it does is keep his mouth closed disabling his bite! Now why is this a bad thing?

http://www.dogsbydunk.com is your one stop destination for premium dog food and premium dog training. From great products, to great resources, dogsbydunk.com is a superior unique alternative that I hope you all take full advantage of!

Boa Constrictor Care Boa Constrictor Constrictor

2009-02-06T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Chris M Jones

Boa constrictors have always been a popular pet snake. Similar to Burmese Pythons in that they are considered a 'friendly giant' of the snake world. Luckily though, they do not quite reach the size of Burmese Pythons. Boa constrictors usually average 7-9feet in length, females being the larger of the sizes. They have been known however to reach 14feet in length, a formidable force for such a large bodied snake. Many sub-species of Boa constrictors are now recognized, most of which are smaller locality variants and should also be considered as good pet snakes. These variations make a good alternative if space is an issue.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snake's life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Boa constrictor, a vivarium 2m Length x 0.9m Width x 1m Height is ample. These large constrictors are one of a few species which are generally not worried about the size of their enclosure. The more room you can provide; the better. Many keepers decide to dedicate a whole room to their beloved snake. Other keepers may decide to use a corner of a room as the back walls and ceiling of the enclosure, and simply build 2 front walls. This will cut down the costs of building and allow for a larger space for the boa. Juveniles should be offered a far smaller enclosure until you are confident they are comfortable with you, their surroundings and feed regularly.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile Boa constrictors, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 'SSSHHH' factors:

1) Safety Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?
5) Humidity Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Décor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Boa constrictor is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a large tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per metre in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Boa constrictors require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-92ºF while the cool end should be approximately 80-84ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a large Boa constrictor's enclosure is to use a large 250W Ceramic Heater with a reflector and safety grid so the snake cannot touch it. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the heater as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures. Heat mats are not recommended at all for large snakes, if so, they should not be accessible to it.

Lighting

Boa constrictors are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. They will often bask in the sun during the day in the wild, so lighting should be offered.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snake's enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12" up to 48" and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium. In a room-sized enclosure, a few may be needed.

Humidity

Boa constrictors occur over much of Central and Northern South America and therefore are exposed to a high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. A 60-70% humidity range will allow to snake to slough it's skin properly and become less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered fuzzy mice or rat pups, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult Boa constrictor should be fed on large rats. One or two of these every 2-3 weeks is ample. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 5-7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. The only exception when adult females should be fed more is when they need fattening up for breeding, or just after they have given birth. A gravid female should be fed double the normal amount for several weeks after she has given birth, and for as long as possible after ovulation. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snake's weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Royal Ball Python Care Python Regius

2009-02-05T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Chris M Jones

Royal pythons have become an extremely popular pet snake, particularly in the last decade. With the proper care, the reward of keeping these beautiful snakes is enormous, but I would like to stress that many individual specimens can be very fussy feeders. For that reason alone I believe this species is not an ideal beginners snake.

Royal Pythons are one of the most common snake species seen in Rescue Centres around the UK. The reason for this, is that most of the royal pythons bought each year are either wild caught or captive farmed individuals. Captive farming is when gravid or 'pregnant' females are captured and then kept in captivity until they lay their eggs. The females are then usually released and the eggs are incubated. The babies are then exported. Very rarely will they be fed until they reach their destination. Importers and wholesalers of reptiles have become better over the years, and will feed the babies several times before they are sold. Many however, are sold without ever having a meal. Being virtually from the wild, they have very strong basic instinct, and taking dead mice as prey is not something they will be used to. I hope the following care sheet will help guide you through the right steps in caring for your royal python.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the python's life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Royal python, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure, especially for royal pythons. The reason for this, is that they are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it's safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. If however, your royal python is behaving normally and feeds regularly; trying a larger enclosure can only be a good thing. Providing the snake does all this, than bigger is better.

Hatchling royal pythons should be placed into a smaller enclosure. It should be no longer than the length of the snake, and must have at least two hiding areas. When the snake is first purchased, it is a good idea to cover over the cage with something dark. This will keep the snake as stress free as possible. This can then be removed once the snake has eaten its first meal.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can too be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 'SSSHHH' factors:

1) Safety Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature enough?
5) Humidity Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions?
6) Hygienic Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake, second making the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult royal python is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Royal pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 78-80ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 78-80º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a royal python enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Royal Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to any snake's enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

Humidity

Royal Pythons are native to North Africa. The humidity is important for this species, but an overly high, constant humidity will cause problems. A 30-50% humidity should be offered, although perhaps raising it slightly when coming up to a slough will aid in shedding it's skin properly. This can be achieved by slightly misting the enclosure.

Feeding

Hatchling Royal Pythons are capable of feeding on rat pups or small mice. As they grow, so should their food. I recommend using a food item the same size as the girth of the snake. The girth is the diameter of the widest part of the snake, which should be the middle part of the body. Hatchling royal pythons should be fed once a week on one or two appropriately sized food items. As they grow, their food should too increase in size, but not in quantity. As an adult, their food intake can slow down to once every two weeks, and a larger rat should be offered.

Royal pythons can be incredibly fussy feeders. Many are wild caught or captive farmed, which is often the result of their tricky feeding habits. In my experience, the one trick that works most the time to get them feeding, is to heat up the food item and offer the food using the 'tease' feed method. Please refer to our 'Problematic Snake Feeding Page' for more detailed information on how to get your Royal Python feeding.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Parrot Care Tips Choosing The Best Parrot Cage On The Market

2009-02-04T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Ispas Marin

The cage is your beloved parrot's home. Any living being should have good home so you have to be sure that you can provide your parrot with the best conditions. Also if you choose the parrot cage wisely than you will avoid some parrot care problems that can appear in the future.

The parrot cage should be the largest expense after practically buying the parrot. So if you are going to spend some money then be sure to spend them on a good deal.

The parrot is going to spend a lot of time in the cage so you'll have to choose the right one for your pet. There are three parrot care issues that you should take in consideration when you are decided to buy a parrot cage. The most important parrot care issue is you bird's safety. There are many cases where parrots got injured or killed because of their cage.

I will try to discuss al this three parrot care points that you should have in mind when you are going to buy a parrot cage.

Safety - Like i already said safety is the most important thing when choosing a parrot cage. You can find Knock down cages on the market. You you buy one of those than you'll have to examine it very good to see if there are any pieces that can be easily removed by you parrot. If there are than i don't advice you to buy this kind of parrot cages because the little pieces can be swallowed by you parrot.

The majority of parrot cages i saw in pet stores are built from different metals like wire, stainless steel, zinc. From what i found so far the wire parrot cages are the most economical. but you mustn't forget to inspect the cage regularly for broken welds or broken wires.

You can find metal parrot cages at a medium prices on the market. This parrot cages are built in a variety of metals shapes and colors.

The most expensive parrot cage that you can find in your search is the Stainless steel cage. The advantages of this type of parrot cages is that they will never rust or cause metal poisoning. So i think that if you are ready to make a good deal, buying a stainless steal parrot cage would be the perfect choice. Even if it's expensive i can ensure you that you'll never have to replace it.

One important safety issue is the bar spacing. When you buy a parrot cage make sure that the bar spacing is smaller than you parrot's head. This way you can be sure that your pet's head won't get stuck between the bars.

Size - another important aspect for a parrot cage is it's size. The best thing you can do is to go to a pet store and buy the largest parrot cage that you can find in your budget range. A big parrot cage gives more freedom to your parrot and it will have a happier life. Keep in mind that the width of the parrot cage is more important than the height. Mostly, your parrot will fly from side to side.

The components of the parrot cage is the last but not least of the important aspects when buying parrot cages. Swing out feeders are a good way to feed your parrot especially the aggressive ones.

You can also buy food dishes for you parrot cage. This accessories also come in different styles and colors.

Try to find a parrot cage that has an entry door big enough to get the bird out easily. Remember that parrots are very smart so they can learn how to open the cage doors. If this happens then you will have to take some security measures and ad some new components so the parrot won't be able to open the door anymore.

Also try to look for a parrot cage with removable litter trays. This way You will clean the cage with no effort and your bird won't reach the old left over food.

In conclusion if you want a happy and healthy parrot you must provide him with a good home. If the parrot cage meets all he parrot care aspects that i mentioned above then you can be sure that your pet will live healthy in peace.

Looking for great information on parrot care problems? Then you must visit us at the best parrot care site on the Net and don't forget to check our parrot cages section.

Plush Dog Toys

2009-02-03T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Josh Riverside

Dog owners need not be surprised if your pet tends to be choosy when it comes to their dog toys. Usually, dogs get fussy about the craziest things, and toys are no exception. They must be the right size, shape, and style; and, above all, they must have the right feel. If the toy is wrong, it ends up gathering dust in the corner.

Chewing and nipping are just some of your pet dog's inevitable addictions. They will not be content with merely sniffing things. Try giving them toys made of soft, plushy material. When they are gnawing on your personal items, you can be sure that soft and plushy are somehow involved. They will find things to get their mouths and teeth on almost anything in sight. In order to divert their attention from your personal belongings, handing them some plush dog toys will make their day less boring and ripping the toys apart will be so much fun.

Plush dog toys are cute and fluffy, and your puppies can carry them one place to another. They may come in varied sizes, shapes, and forms such as balls, bones, bears, and the like. These plush dog toys are commonly equipped with bells and other squeaky noisemakers. Although some dogs tend to get scared of the squeaky sound, others just love it. Once dogs hear bells jingling or squeaky sounds from their toys, they will all the more get curious as to where the sound is coming from, and they'll chew it until they find out.

Dog Toys provides detailed information on Dog Toys, Wholesale Dog Toys, Dog Chew Toys, Plush Dog Toys and more. Dog Toys is affiliated with Homemade Dog Treats.

Dog Obedience Training The Down Command

2009-02-02T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Chris S

The down command is the next lesson to teach in your dog obedience training schedule. It should be taught as soon as you and your dog have mastered the sit command.

The down command is a fundamental ingredient of your overall dog obedience training program. It provides the foundation for many other advanced commands/skills and establishes you as the leader in the relationship you share with your dog. The reason for this is that the laying down position is a submissive and somewhat vulnerable position for your dog to be in, especially when you are standing tall over the top of your dog.

The down command is a very handy tool you will come to rely on in many situations. Popping your dog down into the lying down position is great for times when you need to go into a shop or for occasions when there are small children around. It can take a bit of practice to reach this level, but it is worth the effort.

Learning The Down Obedience Command

When you are in the learning phase of teaching the down command, start out by making it simple for your dog, then slowly turn up the difficulty level.

Move your training sessions to a public place.
Increase the time you keep your dog in the down position.
Bounce a ball around your dog when he is in the lying position, or scatter some food around him. The idea is that your "down" command will be so strong in your dogs mind, that none of these other distractions matter. He can only get up to chase the ball or eat the treats when you release him from the down command.

What you are trying to achieve with the down command is to have your dog quickly get down into the laying position, belly touching the ground and his front legs extended out in front.

In a familiar environment to your dog with no distractions, lets get started!

Down Command Technique 1 - Off Leash

Put your dog into a sitting position.
Grab your dogs favorite tasty treat and hold it a couple of centimetres in front of his/her nose. Move your hand straight down to the ground. Your dog should follow it down (you can praise and encourage him down). As soon as his belly hits the ground, with his legs out in front, lavish him with praise and give the treat.
Repeat this action over and over in short sharp training sessions.
When your dog is "getting it" and going down right away, you can add the verbal part of the command. I use "down" other people use "lay" or "drop", just choose the one you are comfortable with and stick to it (make it a one word command only). Add your command just before you start to move the treat towards the ground. This step is all about building an association in your dogs mind between the verbal "down" command and the act of him laying down.
The idea is that eventually, after plenty of repetition and praise your dog will only require your verbal command, and not the treat in your hand to lure him down. Also, in time you will be able to start the command not only from the sitting position but from standing and in any situation you and your dog are in.
When your dog is responding well to your verbal command, introduce some other variables which make the down command a little more challenging. Try the command as you go about your daily business, around other people or dogs and increase the duration of the command.

Down Command Technique 2 - On Leash

Put your preferred collar and leash on your dog - I just use a nice leather buckle collar when teaching the down command.
Place your dog into the sitting position and stand or kneel right next to him.
Basically you are trying to guide or coax your dog into the down position. How you do this depends on the size and co-operation level of your dog.
Always say your "down" command first, then immediately guide your dog down into the lying position. Grab hold of the leash and gently pull your dogs head down, at the same time guide him down by pressing down between his shoulder blades with the palm of your hand. You can also lift up your dogs front legs and extend them out in front of him, find the method which works best for you. Praise and encourage your dog all the way down. Then of course as soon as he's in the down position make it clear to him that you are happy with him and that he has done a good job.
After lots of repetition your dog will respond to your verbal command only. Then try the command when your dog is in the standing position and in other settings. Make the command a little more challenging by adding some distractions and increasing the time he is required to stay in the down position.

Whichever method you choose to teach your dog the down command be consistent and keep at it.

When you are happy with your dog getting into the down position you will probably want to add a release command to it. This means that when you issue your down command, your dog goes straight down and is not permitted to get up until you issue another command. You can use "away" or "off you go" for this purpose.

Chris Smith is a dedicated dog owner and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com.

Discover the latest cutting edge home based dog training techniques.

Ever Wonder How Fast To Train Or Work With Your Dog

2009-02-01T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Adam Katz

I noticed the other day, while working with a new German Shepherd dog-mix I adopted from a local animal shelterhow fast and intense you must work with your dog, during the "reinforcement" phase.

Your dog goes through three general phases of learning:

1. "The Learning phase": This is when the dog learns to understand what a command means. You use very little correction at this phase, and may use toys, balls or food to motivate (not bribe!) the dog into doing and understanding what the command means. The problem with most amateur dog trainers is that they feel their dog is trained, once he understands a command and has gone through the "Learning Phase."

2. "The Reinforcement phase": Once the dog has learned what the command means, he needs to be "re- taught" the command in a variety of different settings. Because he'll likely only associate response to the command in the initial setting you've trained him in, he needs to "relearn" the command in different types of areas. This happens very quickly. It usually only takes one or two repetitions, and then it "clicks" for the dog. Once you see that it's "clicked for the dog," this is when you need to start working very fast, exciting and BRIEF sessions. Your goal is to get the dog to respond to commands very quickly. IF you're working on the "down" command, then the dog should drop into the down position very quicklyAND THEN IMMEDIATELY GIVE HIM YOUR "RELEASE COMMAND!" Run 5 or 10 steps with the dog, then reissue the command. When you give him the release command, toss a ball, or a piece of food. You should be aiming to teach the dog that training is a big, fun game. A game that he has to respect. But nonetheless, a game the he loves and looks forward to playing with youin any environment.

Here's where most new trainers fail: They don't work the dog fast enough. You need to make your body language fast and exciting to the dog. IF you're not sweating and huffing and puffing after 5-10 minutes then you're not being animated enough. For fastest results, work the dog like this for 3-4 sessions a day and you'll see dramatic improvement.

3. "The Proofing Phase": This phase teaches the dog that 100% reliability in every type of environment is absolutely imperative. Make sure your proof your dog in every type of environment that you can imagine. Practice in parks, in field and in parking lots. Practice around other dogs, and cats. And even chickens and goats. One you've "proofed" your dog, you can relax in knowing that you can pretty much take your dog anywhere and know that hell listen.

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Are You Listening To Your Cat Talking

2009-01-31T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Larry Chamberlain

Is your cat talking to you?

Many cat lovers claim that their feline pets talk to them. They believe their cats can communicate vocally with them and tell them what they want, how they are feeling, and ask how their day has been! So, can domestic cats talk? Can the meows and trills that emanate from your kitty really be described as your cat talking to you?

Yes it can!, and no it can't...

Cats can not communicate vocally in the same way that humans can, of course. Cats, in common with other animals, have not developed language as such, they cannot question, debate or describe. But, cats do have extraordinary powers of letting you know what they want, and largely by using their vocal skills.

The vocal repertoire of pet cats is greater than most animals because it draws its range of sounds from two distinct vocabularies. In its relationship with other felines, your cat grows from defensive kitten, to an independent adult, and the vocal sounds used for cat talking changes accordingly. But with human companions domestic cats remain very much dependent kittens, and will look upon their owners as their mothers. A modified variety of kitten sounds is used to talk to humans to communicate messages such as "Feed me now!", "I want your attention".

It is well known that certain breeds of cats talk more than others. Ask any Siamese cat owner and they will tell you that their pet holds long conversations with them, using its voice to impart an impressive range of meanings. Longhaired breeds, such as the Persian, tend to use their voice more sparingly and are less often heard talking.

Cats use body language to communicate just as extensively as they use their voice to talk. We humans, however are not so bright in picking up on these body messages. The tail is used to convey acceptance, fear, annoyance, contentment, and warnings. The ears too, are often used by the cat to signal warnings of annoyance.

Nonetheless, nothing is as effective for the cat, in getting a message to humans, as its voice. You may not be looking at your cat when it is trying to tell you something, in which case body language, even if you can interpret it correctly, doesn't do the job. Cats are silent movers, you may not hear your cat enter the kitchen, but you will hear the meeeow! that says "get busy with the can opener!", that's your cat talking!

About The Author

If you have a pet related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, provided the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this resource box and live link to http://www.best-cat-art.com

Cat art posters, art prints, cat calendars and cat collectibles. Great cat gifts for yourself or your cat loving friends.

Whats Hot This Season New Trends In Dog Clothing

2009-01-30T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Grant Carroll

It used to be the hot thing to dress parent and child alike. This day and age, however, the child being dressed is four-legged and furry. The younger generation is having less children and satisfying their parental desires with pampered pooches. So, there are a large number of people looking to spoil their dogs and themselves by dishing out the dough on designer dog clothes. Just like human clothing, dog clothing designs get their inspiration on runways around the world and lead many different styles and colors to be the in thing this season.

The inventive colors and designs on models in Milan, Paris and New York have found their way into dog clothing boutiques around the world. Designers have only a short time after the human fashion shows to develop their new lines to go along with what the parents will be wearing. "The dog version of clothing must not only match human styles, it must also be functional for the dog" said Onika Carroll, a designer for Elizabeth Austin. All of these challenges lead to a varied array of dog clothing ranging from the cute and simple to the haute couture.

The different styles that are in this season include an assortment of day and evening wear as well as beach wear. Longer dresses and even ball gowns are going to be hot thanks to the popularity of the TV show "Dancing with the Stars". The good news for retailers is and customers is that there is a wide variety of gowns and dresses to fit anyone's taste. Colors like pink, lilac and lime green are strong this season, and polka dots and floral designs are prominent as well. Another fashion choice that should be popular is having sequins or appliqués of hearts and butterflies. Pooch parents want their girl dogs to be dainty and their boy dogs to be cool or tough. A very popular print this season for boys and some girls is anything camouflage. The bottom line is, there's going to be plenty for everyone to choose what style fits them and their baby best.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters. Also visit Elizabeth Austin for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies.

The Top Three Pet Rat Training Mistakes

2009-01-29T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Colin Patterson

It can be very rewarding to train your pet rats to do tricks and learn obstacle courses. Since they tend to be highly intelligent creatures, rats can actually learn a lot (and get bored if they have nothing to do).

Furthermore, because they're people-pleasers, rats enjoy the challenge of striving for your reward and praise.

However, before you begin training, you may be interested to know the main pitfalls of pet rat training. That way, you can get started on the right foot and make the most of training time. Here are the top three mistakes that novice rat-trainers will often make:

1. Neglecting to create a stimulating living environment for their rats. Sometimes trainers make the mistake of thinking that their ratties' living environment doesn't need to be interesting or fun to be in. They seem to think that an hour of play time or training time is enough to stimulate their little minds. This is untrue. Rats are constantly problem-solving, 24/7. Giving them a stimulating and challenging living environment will ensure that their minds stay sharp for learning tricks.

Buy or build a large caged enclosure complete with shelves, ramps, ladders, cubby holes, bins, hammocks, exercise wheels, tunnels, hidey holes, baskets and ropes strung across.

Occasionally, treat them to a game of "hide n' seek" with sunflower seeds. Hide them in hard-to-reach places so they really have to think hard about how to get to them.

Be sure to adjust and rearrange the furniture and food locations. Always keep 'em guessing.

Make playtime games challenging as well with swimming pools, sand boxes and tunnel-mazes.

2. Being too "results oriented" about training. One major pitfall a rat owner can fall into is to be too demanding about what is to be accomplished during training. This approach to rat-training will only end in frustration and neglect. Never forget that training is just an extension of play time and that repetition, along with positive reinforcement, is the key to success.

3. Forgetting to reinforce old tricks. As the saying goes "If you don't use it, you lose it." The first-time rat trainer will often teach his rats a few basic tricks, move on to other ones for several weeks, only to discover that his rats have forgotten the first tricks! Just because a rat learns a trick, it does not mean that the little guy will remember it later. Reinforcement is everything. This is why, when teaching a rat to run an obstacle course, the trainer must tack a new obstacle onto the one(s) that were previously learned. Otherwise, the rat will fail to remember the first obstacles learned.

So, remember: keep their lives full of challenges at all times; try to be patient and not to get too attached to results and accomplishments; and don't take it for granted that they will remember those first tricks they learned... because they won't. Repeat and reinforce their learning at all times!

Knowing about these three major pitfalls will go a long way in helping you to make the most of your rats' intelligences and abilities; and as long as you are together, you will look forward to training time every single day.

Colin Patterson is author of a guide to pet rats that will teach you the proper way to train your little ratties. Visit Colin's site at http://www.petratguide.com

Dog Training With R Amp R Works

2009-01-28T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by John Dow

Dog behavior training is both an art and a science. Some experts say that a dog can have up to an 800-word vocabulary. I'm not so convinced of the number of words but I can verify that many of my dogs showed an uncanny ability to figure out exactly what I was trying to communicate.

One of the best dog training tips I ever got was from a neighbor when I got my first puppy. I was about 9 years old and this was the best present my parents had ever given me. My neighbor was an old hand at training dogs and had living proof in his own dog.

The first thing I did when I got Skipper (not sure why I picked that name, it just sounded right) was to rush over and show my neighbor. His name was hard to pronounce so every one in the neighborhood just called him Mr. D. So Mr. D was kind enough to run through some dog training basics and taught me a lot about how to take care of my new puppy.

Mr. D's dog was a Jack Terrier called Willie. Willie could do any trick and would respond to almost any request. Willie pretty much had the run of the neighborhood and was known by all. In those days people just let their dog out since there were no leash laws and no one complained. My Mom often gave Willie any leftovers or a soup bones when he would stop by for a visit.

So when I showed up with Skipper, Willie was as excited as I was to have a new playmate. Skipper was a Springer Spaniel that we had rescued from the city dog pound. Skipper was probably about 6 months old but we never knew for sure since the dog pound didn't know when he was born.

The first order of business was your basic dog house training. I got off pretty easy on this phase since Skipper seemed to prefer going outside to do his bathroom chores. From day one Skipper would go to the door and want to be let out when he needed to go.

Mr. D explained that the two most important things about any kind of dog training were rewards and repetition. The reward could be as simple as praise or a pat on the head. And that I should spend at least 30 minutes a day working with Skipper on anything I wanted to teach him to do.

So each day I would spend 30 minutes teaching Skipper how to stay, sit, fetch, and come when I called. Willie would come over and help too. I don't know if they actually communicated but having another dog around that already knew all these tricks had to be beneficial.

Skipper also showed a high aptitude for retrieving. Of course I didn't know at the time that he was a natural born retriever and took credit for being a great and skilled dog trainer. Once I got the basics down I worked on teaching Skipper how to heel, play dead, and not to jump on people.

Skipper started learning on his own too. When I was at school or somewhere that Skipper couldn't go, my mother would be his next choice in companion. In those days we had what was called a Bookmobile that was a bus from the local library that would come to the neighborhood twice a week.

Skipper figured out that when the Bookmobile came he got to go for a walk with my mother. So like clockwork, Skipper would come to get my mother when it was about 2:00 pm on Tuesday and Friday. Skipper loved to go since he got to sit at the door and welcome every one that showed up each day.

Skipper also knew when it was Saturday. Saturday was grocery-shopping day and when my mother went to the store she always asked the meat department for some bones. Skipper knew that he would get his favorite snack on Saturday afternoons when my mother came back from the store.

For the next 14 years Skipper was my constant companion and escort. Skipper was an exceptional dog in disposition, learning ability, and affection. I also had a big advantage having a helpful neighbor and watching him and his dog. Mr. D and Willie were both a huge help and positive influence.

Dog training does require some dedicated effort but the rewards are more than worth the investment. My current dog, Tuxcitto, is a 24/7 project since he is a Border Collie and full of vim and vigor. But Tuxcitto is a lot like Skipper in that he is a fast learner and extremely affectionate companion.

John Dow owns http://www.freedogtrainingarticles.com, a website that provides free information on dog training. John gets to test his dog training skills daily with his new dog Tuxcitto. You can learn more here: http://www.FreeDogTrainingArticles.com.

Is Declawing Bad For Your Cat

2009-01-27T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Lee Dobbins

You love your new cat, but he's clawing and scratching all your furniture! The immediate resolution that comes to mind is to have him declawed, but before you rush into this you should think long and hard for declawing a cat is not a simple procedure - it is a major surgery involving surgical amputation of the first joint of a cat's toe.

Declawing is a painful surgery for your cat. While your cat will get pain medication for his after surgery recovery, the tips of the nerves need time to heal and he can be in pain for weeks or even months until this has happened. This can cause your cuddly little kitty to become highly irritable and aggressive.

Not only that, but the claws are a cats chief chief weapon of defense. Sure, you take every precaution to make sure your cat doesn't get outside, but what if something happens and he finds himself alone in the elements facing other animals?

There will always be occasions when a cat may be confronted by other cats or dogs. Then, it will find it impossible to strike back, because it has no claws. To use its teeth, it needs to get close to its attacker, which may not happen. A declawed cat therefore become a helpless victim in front any aggressor.

Declawing can also lead to problems in the litter box. Declawed cats sometimes avoid the litter box and choose the softer carpet instead since it is painful for them to dig into the litter. Declawing can also lead to biting problems. Since this is their second line of defense, some cats may resort to deep biting to make up for their lack of claws. Even during play, your cat can no longer scratch as a warning and may be prone to biting now instead.

Claws and toes also provide exercise to your cat. When a cat stretches horizontally on a carpet or vertically with a tail scratching post, it pulls and stretches its muscles by grabbing the carpet or post with its claws. As a matter of fact, the cat's claws play a large and positive role in its extraordinary muscle tone and agility.

Finally, declawing can cause joint problems later on in your cats life. Cats walk on their toes so the absence of claws can affect all the joints of the leg resulting in arthritis of the hip and other joints later.

But you don't have to sacrifice your furniture in order to save your cat the pain of declawing. With time and patience you can train your cat to scratch in a more desirable area. Make sure you invest in a scratching post or accessory that your cat likes. Mine loves the simple corrugated cardboard slabs that you can buy in any pet store.

Watch your cat carefully and you will see a pattern of when and where he likes to scratch the most. Put the scratching post in the room where he likes to scratch and wait for him to scratch in his usual place. When you see him starting to scratch distract him and lead him over to the scratching post. Praise him when he uses the post and say "Bad Kitty" when he uses the furniture. Eventually he will start to favor the post - you just have to make him think it was his idea!

Lee Dobbins is a cat owner and animal lover. Visit Cats at the Family Webzone for more tips and info on cats.

Filtration Part One An Introduction

2009-01-26T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Allen Jesson

There exists a wide range of different aquarium equipment in the aquarium trade, and knowing what to buy can be difficult. The subject of filtration is certainly no exception, and when you visit an aquarium shop you can usually find a vast array of various filtration equipments; from comparatively inexpensive sponge filters to pricy protein skimmers. Different types of aquarium will require different types of filtration, and your experience as a aquarium keeper can also affect which type of filter that is ideal for you.

Another important question that you must ask your self is how much time and money you are prepared to spend, and how noise tolerant you and your family are. Do you have time to clean your filter very often, or do you need a filter system that pretty much take care of it self? Is it very important to you that the filter is silent, or is it okay to have a noisy filter system if you can save some money? You might be able to accept one type of filter for the aquarium in your garage, while a much more silent filter is necessary for the aquarium that you keep in your bed room.

By researching the various filter types before you start shopping for a filter, it will be much easier for you to determine what is best for your particular fish species, aquarium size and budget. This way, the risk of being lured in to purchasing a superfluous filter system will be decreased. The risk of getting a really cheap and low quality filter system that you are forced to replace after just a few months will also decrease.

As mentioned above, different aquariums will need different types of filtration. There is for instance a big difference between a saltwater aquarium and a freshwater aquarium. Not only are marine fish species typically more sensitive to poor water quality; the basic water chemistry in a saltwater aquarium is also different which means that other forms of filtration can be used, e.g. the popular protein skimmer. A small aquarium will also typically need more powerful filtration than a medium sized or large aquarium, since the water mass is very small and therefore not capable of diluting a lot of waste products.

Recommending a filter that is ideal for any aquarium regardless of size, flora and fauna, water chemistry etc is naturally impossible. It is therefore also impossible to answer general questions such as "How much should a filter cost for my first aquarium?" or "Do I have to get a protein skimmer for my saltwater aquarium?" Certain types of aquariums can even be kept using biological filtration only - mechanical and chemical filters are not mandatory in successful aquarium keeping. You can also lower the need for mechanical filtration by not keeping messy eaters, by removing any free floating debris by hand, by devoting time and effort to the development of a properly functioning semi-ecosystem, and by never overfeeding your fish or leaving left over food in the water. An aquarium is too small to form a perfectly balanced ecosystem, and you are constantly adding nutrition from outside the system, but you can obtain a form of semi-ecosystem that only requires biological filtration and regular water changes to function. Such a system is however delicate, and for the novice aquarium keeper or the keeper of sensitive species, a combination of biological, mechanical and chemical filtration is usually necessary.

Allen Jesson writes for several sites including two sites that specialize in salt water and fresh water aquariums and the aquarium site and Seapets, a leading source for aquariums and fish tanks.

Stop The Itchy Fleas

2009-01-25T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Disney Pieces

"No, your dog is not pregnant but she has fleas", said the vet.

"Excuse me?"

(She lifts up the dog's tail) "You see all these fleas"

I was stunned. I give my dog flea preventative every month! She bathes monthly and she rarely goes outside. So how could she get fleas?

I learned that all the things I thought mattered did not. After all, what good is flea preventative if it doesn't work?

Based on my experience, I am going to tell you how to treat and prevent dog fleas.

First, an ounce of prevention is worthwell you know the rest.

It's easier to prevent fleas than to treat them. I recommend using a high quality flea preventative monthly. Avoid the cheap ones you find in the grocery store and the flea collars. You want to get a treatment that is applied directly to your dog's skin in between the shoulder blades.

If your dog gets fleas, you not only have to worry about getting the fleas off of your dog, but you have to get the fleas out of the environment. That means everywhere your dog has run, jumped, rested or thumped is full of flea eggs that you have to eliminate.

When you notice that your dog has fleas (If your dog has a lot of fleas, they will be easy to spot. But if it's only a few fleas you will need to check under your dog's belly. Then look under their tail)

If you notice fleas, it's time to act quickly. First you need to treat your dog. Your dog needs a Capstar pill which is a pill that immediately kills all adult fleas within a half hour. You can get this from your vet which will run you about $7 a pill, or you can check out some online stores where you can find it for $14 for a package of 6 pills.

After you apply the Capstar you need to follow up with a flea preventative. This is because the environment still has fleas and you don't want your dog to get re-infested during the treatment process. Though it can get pricey, I would recommend using Frontline or Advantage.

Next you need to treat the environment. Remove all the dog bedding and immediately wash it. Vacuum all the floors where the dog has had free run; after you vaccum throw away the vacuum bag because it probably contains flea eggs. Next you need to get your pet out of the house and spray your house down. I would recommend getting a bottle of Knockout ES from your vet. Spray all the carpet, all couch cushions, under all furniture and all nooks and crannies. If you use Knockout ES you will need to leave the house for a few hours after you spray because it is very strong.

Now you should have your dog and the environment under control. But there is still a chance that flea eggs did not get treated and are ready to hatch so in 2-3 weeks you need to repeat the environment treating. In 4 weeks, reapply toe Frontline or Advantage to your dog.

This article is courtesy of SmallDogBreedSite.com. Visit SmallDogBreedSite.com to subscribe to our ezine and get the latest information on caring for, traveling with, and shopping for your small dog breed.

Tips For Feeding Your Cat

2009-01-24T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Paul Hegarty

Walking down the cat food isle in a pet store could leave you quiet confused as to what food is best for your cat. There are certain nutrients that a cat must have, knowing these nutrients and making sure the food you buy has them listed as ingredients can help make the choice easier.

Other factors to consider are your cat's lifestyle, age and health. Cats need meat-based food to survive and remain healthy. The reason being that certain substances essential to cats cannot be manufactured synthetically and are only found in meat.

Different types of Food:
Dry
Semi-moist
Wet/Moist

Dry:
Contains little water, is hard and crunchy which helps keep your cats teeth tartar-free. This can be left out all day for your cat without going off. Choose a variety that is low in magnesium to prevent Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disorder (FLUTD), where stones or crystals develop causing painful urination for your cat. Usually dry food contains all your cats nutrient requirements, but do not take it for granted, always check the label.

Semi-Moist:
Contains less water than canned food and often contains vegetable protein. This can be left out for your cat to snack on. Not all semi-moist foods contain the nutrients a cat needs and supplementation may be necessary so that your cat gets a complete diet.

Wet/Moist:
Has a high water content, comes in many flavors and is the food type preferred by most cats. Wet food goes off very quickly and any left over by your cat should be removed and not left out. Wet food easily looses its meaty smell, so if you notice your cat turning up his nose to a meal, this could be the reason. Buying the smaller canned food or food that comes in pouches is often the better choice as there will be less wastage. To help prevent tartar formation you can add a few dry biscuits to the food. Or leave a bowl of dry food out for your cat to eat during the day and feed wet food once a day.

Serve food at room temperature, if you have canned food in the fridge bring it to room temperature before offering to your cat. Always provide fresh drinking water to your cat. Cats do not need to drink cows milk and in fact if you offer it to them, they will likely have an upset tummy as they are unable to digest the milk sugar (lactose). Instead offer a brand of cat milk found at your local pet store.

If you decide to feed your cat a home-made diet it is essential that you consult with your veterinarian as cats require many essential nutrients. These nutrients and requirements vary based on many factors, such as age and weight along with whether or not your cat will be indoors or outdoors.

Guide to Cats. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your cat, learn more about Cat Feeders.

Paul Hegarty is the owner of learningfromdvds.com. Price compare Fitness DVDs, read reviews, download free E-books. Read this month's e-book on "How To Spot A fraudulent Email". Grab your free copy today.

Hiking With Your Dog Down The Blue Ridge Parkway

2009-01-23T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Doug Gelbert

Begun as a Depression-era public works project, the Blue Ridge Parkway was America's first rural parkway. When ultimately completed it was also the nation's longest - 469 miles of uninterrupted mountain roads linking Shenandoah National Park in the north to the Great Smokey Mountains National Park in the south. The Blue Ridge Parkway is far and away the most popular destination in the National Park System - more than 19 million recreation visits per year. One of the explanations for its enduring popularity could be that the Blue Ridge is also one of America's most dog-friendly destinations.

Designed for leisurely motoring, the speed limit never exceeds 45 mph on the Parkway and roadside parking is permitted on the shoulders the entire way. Much of the beautiful road is lined by low stone walls. At times the route shrinks to scarcely 25 yards in width. You will never see a billboard and scarcely any development. Parks and recreation areas - several spanning thousands of acres - appear roughly every 30 miles, although most are located in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the 355 miles that comprise the northern part of the route. The lower 114 miles wind through the powerful Black Mountains, named for the dark green spruce that cover the massive slopes, and they offer more limited leg-stretching opportunities.

There is no reason for you and the dog to enjoy the Blue Ridge solely through your car windows. Dogs are allowed on the more than 100 varied trails throughout the Blue Ridge Parkway, ranging from easy valley strolls to demanding mountain summit hikes. Travelers and canine hikers can spend a week motoring on the Parkway and barely sample all its treasures. And it is no trouble to slow down and take as much time as you like on the trails - all the nine first come, first served campgrounds on the Parkway welcome dogs. You will find many of the inns and restaurants in the small towns that flank the Parkway to be dog-friendly as well.

Tracing the route from the north, an early highlight comes within the first ten miles at the Humpback Rocks where the Greenstone nature trail leads to the unusually shaped boulders. A strenuous climb accesses the Appalachian Trail in another two miles. Canine hikers will look forward to the Peaks of Otter, in the vicinity of the highest mountains on the Virginia section of the Parkway, beginning around the 75-mile mark. Three mountains - Sharp Top (3,875 feet), Flat Top (4,004 feet), and Harkening Hill (3,364 feet) comprise the Peaks of Otter, a popular hiking destination since Colonial days when Thomas Jefferson was an enthusiastic visitor. The 4.4-mile trail to the Flat Top summit is graded most of the way until jumbled rocks provide athletic dogs a tail-wagging workout.

Also in the Peaks of Otter are a quick loop hike threading through rhododendron and mountain laurel on Onion Mountain and the 1.6-mile loop of the Fallingwater Cascades National Scenic Trail. Both offer splendid views in exchange for moderate effort. At the 167-mile mark comes Rocky Knob, with 15 miles of trails across 4,800 acres. The marquee walk here is the rugged 10.8-mile Rock Castle Gorge National Recreation Trail. Just down the road is picturesque Mabry Mill with an easy, self-guiding trail spiced with interpretive exhibits and in-season demonstrations on rural Appalachian life. Water-powered Mabry Mill is the most photographed landmark on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The first canine hiking after the Parkway crosses the Virginia state line into North Carolina comes on Cumberland Knob at the 217.5-mile mark. A quick 15- minute loop here leads to the knob and a more challenging 2-mile loop that traces Gully Creek. Next up is 7,000-acre Doughton Park, the largest recreation area on the Blue Ridge Parkway. More than 30 miles of trail and a dog-friendly campground are the prime attractions here.

The Moses H. Cone Memorial Park is a popular stopping point for relaxing or exploring. Many miles of horse and carriage trails jump off from the Historic Cone Manor House and many more trails crisscross neighboring Julian Price Memorial Park, which includes Price Lake, one of the few lakes along the Parkway. Even if hiking isn't on your itinerary when you reach this spot, you will want to stop and sit on the Manor House lawn with your dog and take in the views. In another 10 miles you cross the Linn Cove Viaduct, an engineering marvel skirting the side of Grandfather Mountain.

Ground was broken on the Blue Ridge Parkway on September 11, 1935 at Cumberland Knob on the North Carolina-Virginia border, near the mid-point of the proposed route. By 1967 all but seven and one-half of its 469 miles were complete. The final section, around the rocky slopes of Grandfather Mountain, one of the world's oldest mountains, would not be finished until 1987. To finish the Parkway without massive cuts and fills on the fragile mountainside would call for the most complicated concrete bridge ever built - the serpentine Linn Viaduct.

The 12 bridges of the Viaduct were constructed from the top down at an elevation of 4100 feet to eliminate the need for a pioneer road. In fact, the only trees cut down during the entire project were those directly beneath the roadbed. The only construction on the ground was the drilling of seven permanent piers upon which the Viaduct rests.

Exposed rock was even covered to present staining from the concrete epoxy binding the precast sections. To further minimize the intrusion on the mountain, concrete mixes were tinted with iron oxide to blend with existing outcroppings. Trails lead to views underneath this engineering marvel and access the 13.5-mile Tanawha Trail from Beacon Heights to Julian Price Park. You and the dog can pick your way along an interpretive trail to close-up views of the Viaduct.

A most-anticipated highlight of the Blue Ridge Parkway will be the upcoming Linville Gorge, one of the most remote locations in the Appalachians. Unblazed trails lead deep into the wilderness but most canine hikers will stick to the two main hiking trails surrounding Linville Falls. Erwins View Trail is a sporty walk that takes in four distinct overlooks of the plunging waters in its .8-mile journey. More challenging is the hike on the opposite side of the water into the gorge that descends through a virgin hemlock forest via a switchback to the water's edge beneath the Falls. This is a great place for a doggie dip.

South of Linville Falls the elevations climb and the canine hiking opportunities fade away. Craggy Pinnacle Trail at 364.4 miles is a narrow ridge trail that tunnels through purple rhododendron to a hilltop opening in a veritable sea of trees. A second moderate trail here is the Craggy Gardens nature trail. Nearby, a spur road leads up Mount Mitchell. Your dog can make the final paved ascent to the 6684- foot summit and stand on the highest point of ground east of the Mississippi River. The mountain was named for Dr. Elisha Mitchell, who fell to his death when trying to prove the actual height of the peak.

The last major recreation area on the Parkway comes south of Asheville at Mount Pisgah, once part of the 125,000-acre Biltmore Estate owned by George W. Vanderbilt. Vanderbilt directed trail building efforts across his vast property to provide access for hunting and horseback riding. It was the first large tract of managed forest land in America. The trail to summit views of Mt. Pisgah (5,721 feet) is a hardy 1.26-mile climb. While it is not a prime destination for dog owners, you may want to make arrangements to visit the Biltmore Estate, America's largest private home. Construction on the French Renaissance-style mansion began in 1889 and 250 rooms later was finished in 1895. Admission to Biltmore Estate includes a self-guided tour of the non-occupied parts of the house, access to the formal gardens and the Biltmore Estate Winery.

The final gasps for canine hiking on the Blue Ridge Parkway before entering Great Smoky Mountain National Park - where dogs are not allowed on the trails - occur at Milepost 431 where Richard Balsam's self-guiding trail wanders through the remnants of a spruce-fir forest on the highest point on the Parkway (6,047 feet) and at Waterrock Knob at Mile 451.2. Here a mountain trail leads to the knob and its panoramic, 4-state views of the Great Smokies.

Allow yourself three to five days to explore the Blue Ridge Parkway with your dog - a distance that could be covered in six hours of driving on the Interstate. Even that may not be enough time. Don't be surprised if you find yourself wanting to turn around and do it all again.

I am the author of over 20 books, including 8 on hiking with your dog and the widely praised The Canine Hiker's Bible. As publisher of Cruden Bay Books, we produce the innovative A Bark In The Park series of canine hiking books found at http://www.hikewithyourdog.com. During the warm months I lead canine hikes as tour leader for hikewithyourdog.com tours, leading packs of dogs and humans on day and overnight trips. Tours, ranging from one-day trips to multi-day explorations, visit parks, historical sites and beaches. My lead dog is Katie, a German Shepherd- Border Collie mix, who has hiked in all of the Lower 48 states and is on a quest to swim in all the great waters of North America - http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/. I am currently building a hikewithyourdog.com tours trailer to use on our expeditions and its progress can be viewed at http://web.mac.com/.

Larger Dog Food Isles

2009-01-22T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Lance Winslow

Grocery Stores could use some larger Dog Food Isles. Not because there are more brands of Dog Food. Not because there are more Pets. Not because there are more items for sale. The reason is that the level of quality of food Americans are eating these days is less than that of dog food. Have you recently read the ingredients of the food you are eating, with all the chemicals in it? The ingredients and chemicals on some of these labels certainly is not fit for human consumption.

Nor would you feed such food to your best friend and four-legged companion; at least I hope you wouldn't. But we all have tossed our dogs scraps from time to time, stuff that cannot possibly be good for them, as their evolutionary food supplies came from things they ate, not processed crap and chemical laden foods. Their systems are not set up to eat such things. Now, then so far you have not said a word, you have read this article and agreed with it for the most part, nodding your head. So then do you wonder why humans who eat this food, are over weight, having health issues and are finding themselves at odds with their ambitions and life goals? Why they lack the energy to press on, or become lethargic when a task needs to get done? Could it be the food we are eating? Eating food that taste good from that special blend of chemicals to spike the taste buds, to the point we no longer smell the food we eat and simply wait for that perceived sugar flavor, which is not sugar at all really, just more simulated chemicals that appears to be sugar.

If we put all the food which has all this stuff in it in the dog food isle, then there would be 22 isles of dog food and 5 isles of real food and of course we would all know what side of the store to shop on to stay healthy and fit. Think on this.

Lance Winslow

Did You Know

2009-01-21T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Debbie Ray

German Shepherds were among the first dogs trained for police work- beginning around 1900 in Ghent, Belgium.

Dog's body cells contain the most pairs of chromosomes (heredity- carrying structures) of any mammal- 39 pairs.

There is an old Chinese belief that if a person owns a good and faithful dog that the dog will sacrifice itself to Death when Death demands a member of its' immediate family.

The most decorated U.S. dog during World War II was a German Shepherd/Husky/ Collie mix named Chips. He also served as a guard dog in North America and later earned a Silver Star for capturing a machine gun nest during the invasion of Sicily.

Dogs have been used to determine whether twins are identical or fraternal because identicals have the same scent, but fraternals do not, no matter how much they may look alike.

The Latin word for faithful is "Fido?" Could this possibly have any connection with the fact that so many dogs are named this?

If an old or sick dog does not shake itself after getting up that this is a sign of bad overall health? Each dog shakes itself to get every muscle and tendon back into perfect place after waking up.

A dog can survey an area between 200 to 270 degrees, depending on the shape of its skull and the positioning of its eyes, compared to the average of 100 degrees for a human being.

Due to the popularity of lap dogs in ancient Rome, Julius Caesar once mused if Roman women had ceased to have children in lieu of their new four-legged companions.

Article written and reprinted with permission of: http://www.pedigreedpups.com/ Purebred Dogs, Puppies and Dog Breeders - "Your New Best Friend"

Debbie Ray, owner of: http://www.pedigreedpups.com is a lifetime dog lover and owner and breeder of german shepherd dogs for over 15 years.

Corn Snake Care Pantherophis Guttatus Guttatus

2009-01-20T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Chris M Jones

Corn snakes have become the most extensively produced snake in captivity, and for good reason. They are docile, suit well to captive conditions, and reasonably sized among other things. They are certainly a good beginner snake, possibly the best. In the following few pages, I will take you through the various factors of keeping corn snakes.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the corn snake's life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult corn snake, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure for corn snakes. The reason for this, is that snakes are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it's safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. Some species will not even venture out for their prey; instead they will sit and wait for it to come along. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. Many individual snakes feel very comfortable in captivity, although this generally comes with age and lots of handling. Snakes like these will often thrive in a larger than usual enclosure.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 'SSSHHH' factors:

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult corn snake is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Corn snakes require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-88ºF while the cool end should be approximately 74-76ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 74-78º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a corn snake enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Lighting

Corn snakes are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a corn snake's enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

Humidity

Corn Snakes are found in the South Eastern States of North America where the humidity can be fairly high. It is not important to be critical over the humidity with this species, but a general 40-60% humidity range should be offered. This is more important when the snake is approaching its slough, at which time a higher humidity will help it shed it's skin properly.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered pinky mice, and as they grow the mice should become larger. An adult corn snake should be fed on large size mice or small weaner rats. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 4-5 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. Adult corn snakes need feeding once every 2 weeks on 2 large mice. The only exception when they should be fed more is bringing them out of hibernation, getting them into condition for breeding and then, fattening up females for egg production. An egg-laying female should be fed more often than normal, once a week on 2 large mice.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Canine Diabetes Is Your Dog At Risk

2009-01-19T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Lori Anton

The classic early warning signs of diabetes were all present when I brought my canine companion of twelve years into the Veterinarian's clinic. Muffy was lethargic, unsteady on her feet, drinking large amounts of water, and experiencing incontinence for the first time in her life. I knew something was seriously wrong.

After blood work and a physical examination, the veterinarian said that Muffy had developed type-two canine diabetes. After a brief discussion, we decided to try and regulate her blood sugar level with diet modification and insulin twice daily.

At first, it was rough going. Weekly checkups revealed Muffy's sugar levels continued to bounce from one extreme to the other. Determined not give up, I monitored her urine samples at home for sugar content and adjusted insulin injections as necessary. Gradually, we began to see improvement.

After just a few months Muffy was once again her frisky self. You would never know by watching her race about that she had a serious health problem. A special diet, proper amounts of insulin and regular exercise have worked together with Muffy's routine veterinary care to turn the tide. As a result, I can look forward to many more happy years with my little dog.

Wyoming veterinarian Mary Flitner, who recently moved her practice to New Mexico, received her D.V.M. degree at Colorado State University and an award for excellence in large animal surgery in 1997. Flitner states that diabetes in dogs and cats is more common than most people realize. According to Flitner, a pet's chance of developing diabetes will increase with age.

"This is especially true in overweight, less active dogs."

Besides weight and age, diet is another significant factor. Dogs given table scraps without discrimination are particularly at risk. The importance of diet cannot be over emphasized, warns Flitner.

"A high fiber diet, low in fat and sugar, is vital. And an annual checkup by a qualified professional is also an important part of proper pet care, as early detection of health complications increase successful management of the problem and helps prolong the quality of life for that pet."

Flitner notes many pet owners mistakenly feel caring for a diabetic pet would be too difficult for them, an assumption that complicates the decision making process at a critical time.

"A diagnosis of diabetes in a family pet is hard enough to handle without misconceptions compounding the problem," said Flitner thoughtfully.

For instance, a pet owner might opt to euthanize a pet diagnosed with diabetes because they feel incapable of managing the problem. However, with proper instruction and guidance, that same pet owner could gain the confidence necessary to properly follow the care plan developed by the veterinarian, and enjoy many more quality years together with their pet.

"People need to know by regulating their pet's diabetes, that pet can still live to their full potential," said Flitner, acknowledging most care givers consider their pet an important part the family and struggle to make right health care decisions for them.

Flitner notes grocery store quality pet foods are not good choices for diabetic pets because of added fillers and sugars used to improve the taste.

"Some grocery store brands of cat food actually have trace elements of antifreeze in them, because cats are attracted to it. These type foods often have a high content of sodium, which is also unhealthy for the pet.

"A healthy well-balanced diet is important for any pet, but especially for those diagnosed with diabetes."

Early warning signs that might indicate diabetes in your pet include: an unusually high consumption of water, increase in appetite, incontinence, lethargy, extreme changes in eyes (i.e. cataracts), lack of coordination, and vomiting. Care givers who note such changes in their dog should promptly call a qualified professional, because examination by a veterinarian is important and necessary for proper diagnosis.

Flitner also acknowledges the temptation to remove the water bowl from the pet's reach if incontinence is a problem.

"But, this is not the correct thing to do," instructs Flitner.

In the case of diabetic canines, drinking large amounts of water is the dog's attempt to flush glucose out of the kidneys which has spilled over from the blood. If the glucose doesn't get flushed out, serious damage to the kidneys and other organs can develop.

The best preventative measures against serious health problems in the family pet remain simple and practical: regular veterinary check ups, and a healthy diet. Exercise is also very important. Among other benefits, exercise helps increase the body's effective use of insulin.

For more canine health information, information on a special dog food formulated specifically for diabetic dogs, or other dog products, visit the Savvy Dog Lover web site .

Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor for Writers Write Now, a web site that offers original professionally written content, and SEO content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.

Lori is also Savvy Pet Editor. Savvy Dog Lover web site offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet products. Visit Savvy Dog Lover. Savvy Dog Lover where the best bones are buried!

Why Train Your Dog

2009-01-18T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Chris Geldof

Obedience training is an important aspect of raising your dog. A well trained dog is a happier dog, because a well trained dog has fewer restrictions imposed on it. The more reliable the dog is, the more freedom it can be given. For example, a well trained dog need not be banished to the other room when company comes over to your house. A well trained dog also attracts more attention and praise from others.

Training your dog helps to strengthen the bond between owner and dog. Communications, understanding, trust and respect are all established throughout the training process. Throughout the process of training, your dog will come to learn that you are the leader.

Training your dog properly could also come in handy if certain situations arise, such as your dog getting itself into a dangerous situation. Your voice commands may, at some point, be the only thing standing between your dog and imminent danger. A well trained dog will heed its owners calls and potential tragedies can be averted. Obedience training will help your dog become more responsive to your voice.

Without proper obedience training, many dogs are likely to misbehave. When dogs misbehave, their owners, families, or even strangers could suffer. You don't want your children, or random strangers near your dog if it misbehaves and you don't really have much control over it.

A well behaved dog is a pleasure to own, because you don't have to worry as much about it misbehaving, or getting itself into trouble. A well trained dog is less likely to be a nuisance to others, which is good for everyone.

A well trained dog can go virtually anywhere without being a risk to others, exhibits proper behavior in all situations, is reliable around children, and doesn't threaten other dogs or people.

The question really shouldn't be. "Why train you dog?", but rather, "Why wouldn't you want to train your dog?" Everyone benefits from a properly trained, properly behaved dog.

Chris Geldof is a dog lover and owns a dog-related website. Visit Easy Dog Training Tips for more information on dog obedience and dog training.

Dog Treats More Harm Than Good

2009-01-17T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Jason Montag

Many of us enjoy feeding treats to our dog as much as they love to get them. They just seem so darn happy to hear the box rattle or the jar open. In they come running at top speed as if they have no other reason for living. We feel special when this happens and many of us like it so much that we find ourselves feeding our dog so many dog treats the box runs out faster than the dog food bag. Is this a problem? Well it could turn into a major problem.

Dog treats are not only fun to give our dog but they can actually help the dog maintain a high level of health. The key is to buy the right dog treats. Some veterinarians have compared dog treats to candy bars. You would not sit and eat five or six candy bars a day so why allow your dog to eat the equivalent. There are a number of very healthy dog treats on the market these days some of the treats on the shelves can not only be fun but can benefit the health of their digestive system, teeth and bones. When looking for treats to give your dog go ahead and choose the healthiest ones. Think about this. Dogs can taste differences in things but the main reason that dogs love treats so much is because it is different than their usual food. I figured this out by just getting a few pieces of a different kind of dog food. I gave him nothing special or unusual but just different. My dog reacted the exact same way and loved it so much that he could not even tell the difference between that food and the chewy dog treats I normally fed him. I concluded that I can reward him with anything I want and that included the highly nutritious and still flavorful treats in the store.

For more information about dog treats or to chat with fellow dog lovers in our pet forum, visit http://www.spectacularpets.com.

The Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems And How To Solve Them Part 1

2009-01-16T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Lori Anton

A Word about Dogs, and One of the Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems; Excessive Barking

Dogs are wonderful; just ask any one of the millions of canine owners world-wide. They make terrific companions, are loving, loyal, protective, entertaining, and obedient. Well, most of the time anyway.

As with humans, no dog is perfect including my treasured poodle, Muffy. She is wonderfully calm and composed, especially considering her breed type. And she has been my best friend for nearly 14 years. Nevertheless, she has her faults. We all do.

That aside, it is important for new dog owners to understand the differences between dogs and humans. Recognizing the differences will help owners balance expectations and keep them realistic.

Some behavior is ingrained; inborn and common to the canine population. Their ways are not our ways. We cannot punish a dog for being a dog. It would be unrealistic, for instance, to expect a dog not to be inquisitive; not to sniff, not to defend its territory, or not to explore and "cut loose" in an open field. People who cannot accept normal dog behavior should not own a dog.

Other behaviors in dogs are learned due either to past experience, or neglect on the human's part. Case in point: a mother dog does not hesitate to teach her puppies acceptable social skills and proper manners. She will correct and discipline a pup when they need it.

We humans, however, take a puppy away from its disciplinarian its mother and adopt it into our home. When the puppy bites, nips at our hands, or chews on things that they should not, we hesitate to discipline him. Either because we think he is too small for discipline, or else too darn cute! It is only after the puppy gets older and a bad behavior pattern has set in that we decide something must be done.

When it comes to problematic canine behavior problems, three are most predominant: excessive barking, biting, and jumping up on people. In this 3-part canine behavior and modification training informational, we will address each behavior problem individually.

Excessive Barking

Dogs can bark excessively for different reasons: boredom, loneliness, and defying being left alone are among the top reasons.

You have some control over your dog's boredom and loneliness. Besides providing warm shelter, adequate food, and an adequate supply of clean water, both dogs and puppies require entertainment and exercise to be happy and relieve boredom.

Playthings and chew toys made for dogs help to keep a dog entertained. Spending time with your dog playing and exercising him is also important. A happy, content dog is less apt to bark excessively.

When it comes to having to be left alone, however, your dog must learn to accept being alone without causing a ruckus. There is little more annoying to neighbors than being forced to listen to someone else's dog bark nonstop.

If your dog barks for no good reason, well-known dog obedience instructor and author, Jerry Climer, suggests that you walk up to him and close your hand around his muzzle; forcefully, but not enough to cause pain. Hold his mouth closed and command "Quiet!" If he tries to break away, be more firm and forceful. Hold his mouth shut and snap your finger sharply across his nose, commanding again "Quiet!" Once he has stopped the noise and is silent, praise him.

When training a young puppy not to bark, place a short rope on his collar and let him drag it around the house. When he barks to alert you, let him bark once or twice, and tell him he's a good dog. Then use the command "Quiet!" in a firm tone, while at the same time giving his rope a little jerk to startle him. Insist that he stop the noise immediately, and praise him the minute he becomes quiet.

Whether training a grown dog or a young puppy, discipline must be consistent in order to be effective. After the lesson has been learned, commanding "Quiet!" will be enough to bring peaceful silence, and stop excessive barking.

We at Savvy Dog Lover care about you and your pet. In part 2 of this 3-part instructional we will discuss the problem of biting. Read part two, "How to Control the Canine Behavior Problem of Biting," at www.savvy-dog-lovers.com.

Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor of Writers Write Now, offering original professionally written SEO content, quick content, and free content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.

Lori S. Anton is also an editor for the Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit Savvy Dog Lover where the best bones are buried!

American Pit Bull Dog Obedience Training

2009-01-15T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Tim Amherst

The Pit Bull terrier is an amazing dog and is extremely energetic and can certainly prove to be a handful if not properly trained. American Pit Bulls are extremely loyal and when a relationship is formed, it lasts forever. If you're a new Pit Bull owner, you really need to understand how demanding these dogs can be and realize that they need a lot of attention and training in order to recognize their full potential as pets. Pits are very intelligent dogs and this will work to your advantage as you're going through the training process.

Because of their high intelligence, Pit Bulls can have stubborn streak in them but don't let this scare you when it comes to obedience training time. You as the owner must remember that there will be times when you ask him to do something and he's not going to obey, even though he knows what you are expecting him to do. Remember to remain patient in these times and don't get frustrated. The earlier you being training your Pit, the better. At 8 weeks of age, you can begin basic training and socializing your Pit Bull puppy. Remember, make sure to keep the training activities fun and use positive reinforcements to encourage desired behavior.

Socialization is one of the key areas of focus for Pit Bull training. Pits can be extremely friendly and affectionate animals but they can be dog aggressive if not properly socialized. The best way to socialize your pup is to enroll in training classes. Training classes allow your Pit to be trained side by side with other dogs.

When your Pit Bull puppy reaches the age of 13-16 weeks, you can begin a more serious training routine. During this age, your Pit will likely test his boundries with you and explore the area of dominance. He may nip and try to assume the alpha dog role. It is important to be strong during this time and maintain the dominant role in the relationship.

Pit Bulls are genuinely lovable family dogs that if properly trained, make a great pet for anyone. They are excellent dogs that love being around their "people". Be sure to train your Pit Bull as early as possible and remember to stay consistent.

To learn all about American Pitbull Terriers and training a Pitbull, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Sugar Gliders How To Select A Sugar Glider Breeder

2009-01-14T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Miles Fowler

It is important to choose a sugar glider breeder carefully. A breeder should be able to tell you a lot about the particular glider(s) you're interested in (lineage and genetics, any health issues, etc.). Most breeders will also be able to answer any questions you have after you bring your sugar glider home, which is very important if you are new to sugar gliders! Sugar gliders are wonderful pets, but they have specific needs that are different from other pets.

Before you buy a sugar glider from a breeder you find on the internet, read their website and ask others about their experiences with this breeder. (Ask questions in sugar glider forums such as those on the glidercentral.net website.) The majority of breeders you will find on the internet are wonderful people, concerned with raising quality, healthy sugar gliders. But there are some sugar glider "breeders" on the internet who spread misinformation about what is required to keep a healthy, happy sugar glider. Their general attitude indicates that sugar gliders are simply a commodity.

If you see a breeder offering sugar gliders extremely cheaply (less than $100), it is a probable sign of a sugar glider "mill". Additionally, be skeptical of a breeder who imports and/or breeds everything from anteaters to penguins to tigers. Those breeders do not specialize in sugar gliders and probably do not fully understand the species and its needs. They are more likely to sell you a sick or inappropriate sugar glider. Choose a well-run breeding facility whose first concern is raising quality, healthy sugar gliders.

If at all possible, avoid buying your sugar glider from a pet store, where impulse buys are encouraged. The same goes for trade shows and flea markets. Buying a sugar glider should be a carefully-considered action. Frankly, many of the sugar gliders at pet stores come from "sugar glider mills". And bear in mind that the minimum-wage help at most pet stores will be unable to answer your questions about caring for your new sugar glider.

Whenever possible, choose a local breeder. That way, you can visit the breeder's facility to interact with the sugar gliders before you buy. Also, by buying locally, you avoid having to have the sugar glider shipped. Transportation and shipping are stressful for any animal, and sugar gliders are no exception. That said, there are reputable breeders who are very skilled at shipping sugar gliders, so if you cannot locate a local breeder, contact an out-of-state breeder.

You can find a list of sugar glider breeders who are also members of the International Sugar Glider Association (ISGA) on the ISGA website. You may not want to necessarily restrict your search to breeders who are ISGA members, but that is a good place to start. Additionally, entering the search term "sugar glider breeder" into Google's or Yahoo's search box will yield the names and contact information for many breeders.

Regardless of which sugar glider breeder you decide to contact, there are a number of important questions to ask:

How long have you been breeding sugar gliders?

Do you have the proper license(s) to breed and sell sugar gliders?

Do you have references and/or testimonials from other people who have bought sugar gliders from you? (Be sure to go ahead and check those references!)

Will you be willing to take my phone calls and/or emails regarding questions I have, once the sugar glider is in my home?

Do you have a health guarantee? How long is it? Can I have that guarantee in writing?

Do you guarantee your sugar gliders' ability to breed (only important if you are planning to breed them, too)? Can I have that guarantee in writing?

Do you handle your joeys (baby sugar gliders) a lot once they are out-of-pouch? How much time do they spend interacting with humans?

Was this sugar glider permitted to leave the pouch naturally, or was he removed from his mother's pouch early? (It is always best to leave joeys in the pouch until they are ready to leave, unless Mom is sick or deceased.)

You should also expect that a breeder will have a lot of questions to ask you! If the breeder does not ask you questions, it could be a sign that he or she is only interested in making quick money, not in providing proper, loving homes for their sugar gliders. A breeder may ask you:

Why do you want to buy a sugar glider?

Have you considered all the pros and cons of a sugar glider? (They should be able to tell you the pros and cons.)

Are you willing to make the time commitment that a sugar glider requires?

Are you willing to love and take care of this pet for up to 15 years?

What kind of housing/cage are you going to provide?

Are you willing and financially able to provide veterinary care?

Are there small children in your household, and if so, how will be they be supervised around the sugar glider?

Are there other pets in your household? What preparations have you made to insure the sugar glider will be safe from these pets?

What kind of food are you going to provide for your sugar glider?

All in all, the search for the perfect sugar glider for you and your family should be deliberate and carefully-considered. Remember, sugar gliders can live for up to 15 years in captivity, so it is worth your while to buy a healthy glider from a breeder you can contact in the future.

Miles Fowler is the author of Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide, a comprehensive and authoritative book for both novice and experienced sugar glider owners. Learn more at: http://www.sugargliderauthority.com

Can Your Pet Get Alzheimers

2009-01-13T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Shawn Messonnier

While pets don't actually develop Alzheimer's disease, both dogs and cats develop a condition called cognitive disorder. While the condition appears new, it is not and has been recognized by veterinarians for many years. There are a number of clinical signs in pets with cognitive disorder. These signs are often accepted by owners as normal signs of aging, when in fact they are signs of a (usually) treatable condition. Owners must be taught that any of these signs warrants a full evaluation. Education must begin before the first geriatric visit. Regular geriatric examination, ideally every 6-12 months, will facilitate communication and allow for early diagnosis of cognitive disorder and other conditions often seen in geriatric dogs.

Common signs in dogs and cats with cognitive disorder include wandering aimlessly, vocalizing for no reason, getting stuck in a corner, increased daytime sleeping, seeking less attention, loss of housetraining, and seeking less attention. Because these signs can mimic other conditions (cancer, hypothyroidism), these pets should receive a full workup prior to the diagnosis of cognitive disorder.

The drug AniprylR is approved for treating cognitive disorder in dogs. It must be given daily for the life of the dog once the diagnosis is made. Side effects are rare in dogs and included restlessness, disorientation, vomiting, anorexia, weakness, anemia, stiffness, and polydipsia. The major concern among owners is the cost: a one month supply for a 30 pound dog costs about $125.

There are other more natural alternatives, including herbal preparations (gingko, lycopodium, salvia,) thyroid supplement (when hypothyroidism is the cause), nutritional supplementation using whole food preparations of vitamins such as inositol and lecithin, and a specific product called Cholodin which combines choline and several other nutrients (choline, phosphatidylcholine, methionine, inositol, and various B vitamins and antioxidants.) Nutritional supplementation is used to increase acetylcholine levels in the body (acetylcholine is a widely distributed nerve transmitter in the body.) Aging people and pets begin to lose choline nerve receptors. Since oral choline administration increases plasma choline levels, and since brain levels of acetylcholine increase as plasma choline levels increase, using choline supplementation has the ability to improve neurological disorders that result from decreased acetylcholine.

Natural therapies have proven extremely effective in most pets in my practice, without the expense or side effects of drug therapy. Therapy is given for 2 months to assess efficacy (as is true with any nutritional therapy,) although results may occur more quickly. For more information on the protocol I recommend, please email me at naturalvet@juno.com and ask for the cognitive disorder protocol.

Shawn Messonnier, DVM

Author, 8 Weeks to a Healthy Dog, The Allergy Solution for Dogs, and the award-winning The Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats. Dr. Shawn is the medical consultant for Pet Togethers, a pet supplement company.

http://www.pettogethers.net/healthypet

http://www.petcarenaturally.com

Understanding Your Cat

2009-01-12T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Ric Wiley

My cat always talks to me, he always tells me things and not always by meowing. Sometimes he uses his body. Cats have body language just as humans have and I think theirs is much easier to understand.

First and foremost, verbal communication. I just wish I could understand Tigger fully, I wish I could talk to him. I can and do talk to him but its like talking to someone foreign. You don't really know what they're saying but you can usually understand what they mean. Its the same with my cat, I can understand him, but I don't understand the meows.

I know when he wants food, I know when he's content, I know when he's angry and I know when he's on edge or nervous as if something big is in the yard like a dog. He tells me, and I can understand.

I can also tell how he is by his body language. I know to look for the little things, the little signals he is giving me. It is about loving your cat so you understand him (or her).

I can tell when he is frightened, his ears are usually flat against his head and his eyes are wide open. I can tell his pupils are fully dilated which makes his eyes look almost black. His back is arched and his fur is puffed up. This is all to make him look bigger than he is to whatever is scaring him and is common with all domestic cats. His tail is usually swishing from side to side as well and the fur is puffed out on his tail.

It is a different story when he is relaxed and happy. His pupils will be normal sized and his eyes may be fully open or half closed if he is feeling sleepy. His ears are normal, pointing up and slightly forward and his tail will be curved down with the tip of his tail pointing slightly up. He is usually laid on me at this stage and his motor will be running at full blast, that's what I call his purring, running his motor. I have read that this can be a sign of pain and cats will purr when they are in a lot of pain. My cat has once purred like this when he was hurt badly. I once couldn't coax him off the garage roof and when I got up there to see if he was OK he was purring yet he had a large piece of his skin torn back off one of his hind legs. He sure was glad to see me but boy must he have been in a lot of pain.

Don't worry I sorted him out and took him to my local veterinarians. Cost me a fortune and I was told to take the dressing off in two days and take him back for the sutures out in a week. Within 3 hours of getting him home he had managed to get the dressing off and eat the sutures. He didn't like them and wasn't having them. Still he was fine in a couple of days.

Ric Wiley is an established writer and Internet author. His latest site about his relationship with his cat, Tigger, can be found at http://www.love-your-cat.com

Are 2 Dogs Better Than 1

2009-01-11T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Ron King

How could 1 dog ever be enough for a dog lover? Before you decide to add another dog to the family, there are some important concerns about your current dog you should consider.

Matching Personalities

Your current canine companion loves you, but how will it feel about sharing you? If it is sweet, servile and submissive, a new dog could bully your first dog into a life of fear and despair. With a submissive dog, never accept a puppy that won't let you cradle it upside down in your arms. A puppy that will let you hold it as you would an infant is willing to be submissive.

If your dog is a bit of a bully with other dogs and the new dog shares the same trait, beware! There are major battles on the horizon, until they sort out who is the alpha dog. Sometimes, with equally dominant personalities, the battles never end. After a few skirmishes and trips to the vet, you'll be regretting the new addition to your family.

Your best chance for adding a new dog to the mix are with a balanced and confident current pet. Dogs that are neither overly dominant, nor submissive, are more likely to accept and survive the addition of another dog in the household.

Size Matters

Your next consideration is the size of your dog. If you have a little terrier, you should avoid a Great Dane pup. A large, energetic puppy can accidentally injure a small dog repeatedly before it's aware of its strength. On the other hand, if you currently own a full-grown Golden Retriever, which undoubtedly has a terrific temperament, you may be able to bring a small-breed puppy into the family.

You should watch the dogs closely in the early days when they're together. More than 1 German Shepard has become the devoted protector of an iddy-biddy lap dog.

Fussy Females

If your dog is an unaltered female, she may become very unhappy if another female dog enters her domain. She may need to be altered before she will accept a second female in the pack. She could still show some aggression even after being spayed. A male puppy might be a wiser choice. Besides, unless you're prepared to suddenly be the proud owner of a half-dozen more dogs, you'll have to alter at least 1 of them.

Old Folks

If your dog is older, you may want to reconsider buying a puppy. Older dogs often have aches and pains, and are more impatient than when they were younger. Instead, think about getting a mature dog. It will be an easier adjustment for your older dog.

Mix And Match

Toy lap-dog breeds tend to be spoiled by their owners and are jealous of other dogs. Getting a new puppy with child-like demands on your time is not going to bring out the best from the dog that has grown to expect your undivided attention. A pampered pooch can be a challenge. The more aggressive breeds, such as Rottweilers and Pit Bulls, are also likely to have problems. Some dogs simply don't adjust well to competition -- ever.

In the final analysis, all dogs are individuals with independent personalities. You should know best whether a new puppy will be welcomed.

Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit new-pup to learn more about this subject.

Miniature Dachshund Louies Journal

2009-01-10T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Gloria Law

I am a miniature Dachshund. I may be small but my attitude is huge. My mom is a wonderful person and I am totally in love with her. However, when she goes out of town, she leaves me with her mom, my grandma. Grandma has two dogs. Babe is a Doberman/Shepherd cross and Mercedez is a Dalmatian/Black Lab cross. Zack is a big Doberman that belongs to a friend of my mom's. I love Zack. He thinks I'm his parent. This journal is about the times I have been left at Grandma's. It is written to my mom. If you read my whole journal, there is a special treat for you at the end.

Day 1

I thought you might enjoy knowing my innermost thoughts so I decided to keep a journal. I saw you packing your big suitcase and knew you were going to go see Zack and I was so excited to go with you. Then you and your friend and your great big suitcases got out of the car and you said "Bye, Louie, Stay". My heart sank - I just can't live without you, Mom. I mean, Gramma's o.k. But she's not like you. She lets me cry. She pushes me away. She doesn't keep me warm. And sometimes she's mean. I was so sad - I cried all the way home and then I ran upstairs and jumped in our bed and went to sleep for the whole day. I miss you already but you will be home soon, I am sure.

Day 2

Well, today Gramma said I could come with her to the big city and just when we were going to leave, Babe smelled that great big dog walking up on the big road and she ran out the door. Gramma ran after her in her high heels and she was calling her and everything but Babe didn't listen - she wanted to play with the big dog and she ran all the way down the street to that really big house where all the cars are parked that I like to bark at. Mercedez and I laughed so hard we almost peed. Finally Gramma came home holding Babe by the neck and she looked mad and tired. We stopped laughing so we wouldn't hurt her feelings and besides, I wanted to go to the city.

After a few minutes in the car I had to go poo and Gramma wouldn't stop the car. I cried and cried and she just kept going. So, I let out a big smelly fart and that got her attention. She pulled over the car just in time. I really had to go.

It was cold out so Gramma put my sweater on me. I hate it. It makes me look like a girl. Every time Gramma got out of the car, I took my sweater off. It was fun. Then she would put it back on me and sometimes my feet got all tangled up. But she knew I was cold so she was trying to keep me warm.

It was a long day in the car but sometimes when Gramma stopped, she let me run around and smell things. Sometimes, her friends were there. They are so ANNOYING. They want to touch me and talk to me and I just want them to go away. I need to smell things and stuff.

One time, Gramma stopped at the store and the sun was shining bright so I climbed up in the back window and was getting all-warm and snuggly when she came back to the car. She didn't see me and she freaked. She looked under the blanket and on the floor and she was breathing heavy - it was so funny. Then she saw me and laughed. It is so nice up there in the sunshine.

We got home and had dinner and now I am going to go sleep with Babe and Mercedez. They wanted to hear all about my day. So, I guess I will have to tell them what they missed.

Day 3

It was a quiet day at home. I slept most of the day. Sometimes I slept on Gramma's lap but mostly in our bed - I can still smell you there. Gramma took me and the big girls for a long walk and we all pooed. I stepped in it - Gramma had to clean my feet. If I'm not careful, she might want to give me a bath. Ugh!!

Day 4

Today I stayed in bed all day. When Gramma came home I didn't even go out to go pee. I just wanted to sleep. It is so cold out and wet - I hate it. I can't wait until I can lay in the sun again. I snuggled with my big sister, Mercedez. She is so nice to me. I think she likes me a lot. No matter what she is doing, she lets me snuggle her. She is big and warm. She told me that she is jealous when I always get to go in the car. She used to go in the car all the time when she was little. Now, nobody takes her and she wishes so much that she could. But, that's o.k. with me - I am just glad I get to go places - of course, I didn't tell her that. It would have hurt her feelings.

Day 5

Today Gramma took us for two walks. Guess what Mom? I HAVEN'T HAD ONE ACCIDENT IN THE HOUSE since you left. I am going for a new record! Aren't you proud of me?

Grandpa got home tonight - well, that is almost as good as you coming home. I love him so much and he always holds me close and likes to sleep with me. I curl up on his big belly and it is so warm and soft - almost as nice as curling up with Mercedez. I ran upstairs and got my bone rattle toy that was under your bed and I brought it to him. I know how much he likes to play with me. We played and played - it was so much fun. Then I cuddled up on his belly and went to sleep. I dreamed of you.

Day 6

Today Gramma took us for a long run - the girls haven't run in over a week cuz Grandma's truck wasn't working. It was so much fun - we ran and ran and I got all hot and tired. I don't understand why Gramma doesn't run with us - she just sits in the truck.

Day 7

Today Gramma was gone all day from when it was dark this morning. I stayed with Grandpa and he held me a lot. Then tonight when Grandpa and Gramma were watching a movie, I went downstairs and had a pee. I don't know why I did it - I knew Gramma would be mad - and SHE WAS. I felt bad but I'm so cute you gotta love me.

Gramma took us for another big run when she got home tonight. I love running with the girls - makes me feel so big. Hope you are having a lot of fun Mom because I really, really miss you.

Day 8

Guess what happened this morning. It was early and dark outside and gramma took us out for a pee in her nightgown and Mercedez got OUT of her leash and ran to bark at the neighbor and also the lady walking her dog up there. Well, I barked really loud just like a big dog. Gramma had to chase us in her nightie and it was so funny.

Well, it is time for you to come home now. Tonight I went upstairs to OUR room and got into my travel bag - I want to go where you are. I pushed the bag down the stairs to show Gramma I want to go see you now. I miss you so much.

Day 9

Well, it was an eventful day. Gramma took us for a run and Mercedez chased something down the big mountain. She couldn't get back up. Gramma didn't know what to do - her and Babe and me stood on the edge and called her - she crawled up the big hill and fell. She was so tired - stupid dog - always chasing stuff - I never do that!!

Then Gramma and Grandpa went out in the evening and I pooped in the house. When Grandpa got home he didn't see it and stepped in it. I hid under the bed and they couldn't find me. I knew I was in trouble. Grandpa was really mad - Gramma was glad she didn't have to clean it up. I'm sorry but I couldn't help it.

Every morning, the first thing I do when I get up is stand by the refrigerator and cry. For several days Gramma would give me a pill and some cheese - it was great - but she doesn't do that any more no matter how good I am or how long I cry by the refrigerator - I wonder why.

Day 10

Oh my goodness - what a big day this was. I am such a happy boy. First Gramma took us up the mountain and this time I didn't get to run up the mountain but she let me run all the way down -- that means that I could run real fast and keep up with the big girls. They were tired, so that helped. It was so, so, so much fun. And guess what, Mom? Guess what - guess what - guess what??? Mercedez and me found a skull - it was buried under a big rock - Babe didn't find it but I did - it was ugly - Gramma said YUK.

Gramma gave me a bath - I didn't like that and I cried the whole time but she wrapped me in a blankie and Grandpa held me - that was cool. Grandpa kept saying all day "Zack is coming, Zack is coming". I could hardly stand the excitement. Could it be true?

THEN, around dinnertime - guess what? Zack and daddy came. I just about peed myself. It was so exciting. I am so happy. Daddy took me to McDonalds and I had 4 McNuggets - my absolute FAVE!! It was such a good day. Zack didn't play with me but I know he needs me to take care of him and I got to sleep with him. Life just couldn't be any better unless you were here Mom. Are you ever coming back? Why didn't you come with Zack and Daddy? I don't understand.

Day 11

Today I got up real early and me and Zack and daddy went to the city. I got some more chicken McNuggets for breakfast. I was a good boy. It was nice to get away from Grammas and feel like I was traveling again with you, Mom. Are you ever coming home? Have you left me forever?

Zack and me came back to Grandma's tonight and we played and ate and I told the big dogs about my day. They were jealous. They NEVER go anywhere - Losers!!

Day 12

This morning Gramma tried to sneak out with the dogs to go for a run cuz I was sleeping in our bed upstairs BUT I have really good ears and I heard them and started crying so she had to take me. Good thing she did - I always tell the girls where to run and what to sniff. I'm so close to the ground I always find the fun things to sniff. I almost rolled in something really neat but Gramma yelled at me and I had to stop. Darn!!

I didn't sleep very well tonight - I was up a lot - I thought I heard you or Zack coming home.

Day 13

All right, I think you have been gone long enough. It is now time to come get me. I'm ready to roll. I have gained some weight and doing much better than when you saw me last. Is that why you left me? Was I too skinny? Too sick? I'm all better now and I want to see you. I love you and I miss you so much.

Guess what Mom? Daddy picked me up tonight - I was so excited. He said we were going to get you. What does that mean? Where are you? You aren't with Zack. I can't find you. Where are you? Are you o.k.?

Day 14

We went on a big trip today - Zack had to stay home. We came to a tollbooth and they asked daddy some questions but they wouldn't give me a treat. I am so cute and sweet - why didn't they give me a treat?

I just hope I see you soon - I don't know how much longer I can stand being away from you. I love you, Mom

Gramma said that it is time I earn my keep. She asked me to show you what she does all day. Go to this link and if you want to buy something from her, tell her I sent you and she will give you a really good deal www.gemsofcoloronline.com

Also, please read my second journal it's hilarious.

Gloria is an author of inspirational and humorour stories. She also manages two businesses, one in the field of health and the other in gemstones.

Are You Sure That You Need A Budgie

2009-01-09T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Geomil Georgiev

Before buying a budgie think about the following questions:

One or two budgies?

Budgies in natural conditions live in flights and it will be boring for one budgie to live in a cage. His friend, who can replace the company of other bird, could be a person but only in case that he spends lots of time with his feathery friend, speaks to it and lets it fly. If the bird is alone most of the time it becomes sad and very often gets sick. If you are unable to spare enough time for the budgie or if the family is absent for a long time, it is better to start breeding a couple of birds.

Many people think that when living in a couple budgies do not become domestic because they do not need human presence anymore. But if your patient enough and if you have enough time you may breed budgies separately while they grow up until they become domestic and start perching on your arm and only then to bring them together into one cage.

Will anybody help you?

It can happen that on some days you can be very busy and to be unable to care about the birds It is very important someone of the family to take care of them. And will it be possible for the bird to move around your home?

Home budgies do not need to look for food alone and to fly kilometers away but they also have to "exercise" their wings. These feathery ones will not be vital and healthy if they do not fly daily around the room at least for an hour. But is very difficult to keep the cage in one room with a catit instinctively chases birds and the is no trouble in catching the flying budgie. But an obedient dog very soon realizes that the bird is a member of the family and that it must not be disturbed.

Geomil Georgiev is owner and editor of http://www.birdscomfort.com where you can find information on every type of pet birds. BirdsComfort provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as cage covers, bird cage playstands, bird perches, bird toys, bird swings and bird foods.

Lungfish The Fish Time Forgot

2009-01-08T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by William Berg

Lungfish are ancient fish that can be found in Australia, South America and Africa. The group lungfish contains only a few species and no more than a total of six species are known. This six species can be divided into two different families. One family, Lepidosirenidae, contain five species found in South America and Africa. The other family is called Ceratodidae ad contains only one species, the Australian lungfish.

All lungfish share the one common organ that has given them their name. They have developed lungs which allows for them to survive in water with very low oxygen levels where other fish can't survive. The lungs also allow them to survive out of the water. The lungs found in lungfish are very similar to the lungs found in primitive reptiles.

Lungfish has been present since the Lower Devonian area which means that they have been around for more than 100 million years. The number of species used to be much more numerous in the past but all but six species are now extinct.

Lungfish are easily recognized on how they look. They have primitive looking snakelike bodies. All lungfish species can grow very big and the African lungfish can grow to be more than 2m / 6 feet long.

They are highly predatory species that eats or try to eat everything that fits into their large mouths. (Including aquarium decoration and heaters) Their natural diet consists of fish,crabs, crayfish and anything else they might find.

The Lepidosirenidae family of lungfish can survive in very little water and the African lungfish can survive without water for up to two years. South American lungfish survives low water levels by digging a hole in the bottom mud where they build a nest. They then wait in the nest until the water returns. The African Lungfish is an even better survivor. They don't settle for building a nest but also cover their bodies with a secretion. This secretion forms a leather like cocoon that helps keep the lungfish moist until the water returns. They hibernate during the time they wait for the water to return and can as earlier mentioned survive in tried out desert like areas for up to two years or perhaps longer.

The Australian lungfish doesn't hibernate like some other lungfishes. This makes them dependent on water but can be found and survive in very small water bodies.

All Lepidosirenidae lungfish species builds some type of nest in which they deposit their eggs. The male guards the eggs until they hatch. The Australian lungfish doesn't build any nest. They just deposit the eggs on the bottom within their habitats.

This was just a short introduction to lungfish. Read more about Lungfish. Another fascinating group of fishes you can read more about is Snakehead

Neon Tetra

2009-01-07T08:00:00.000-08:00

Writen by Gary Bolton

Family: Characidae

Species: Paracheirodon innesi

Size: 2.5cm (1 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: The natural riverine habitat is Amazonia, but most Neon Tetras are now commercially bred

Remarks: The Neon Tetra is hardy and peaceful but difficult to breed.

Comments: The slim body of this fish has the same unmistakable electric blue-green stripe as the Cardinal Tetra. Here, however, the front lower body is silver. Scales are well defined in the upper dorsal area, and the fins are generally clear. Females have a plumper bodies which "bend" the stripe further. This has to be one of the most kept species of tropical fish, easy to keep and looks great in large shoals together in a well planted aquarium.

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This fish comes from the "Tropical Fish" family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. If you require more information about keeping fish in general and what are the right fish to choose for your tank setups, you can always visit my site called "GB Aquarium" and see what's posted new there and also join in the discussion taking place.

http://www.garybolton.co.uk

The Sealyham Terrier Otter Terrier

2009-01-05T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Michael Russell

The Sealyham Terrier has as its origin the region of Sealyham, in Pembrokeshire, Wales. It is a cross of several different terriers and hounds, among them the Bull and the Dandie Dinmont and the Fox terriers and the Westy. Another important part of its genetic makeup is the Flandres Basset Hound. From the Basset the Sealyham acquired the short carriage and the heavy duty front legs capable of digging out burrows quickly and efficiently.

The Sealyham Terrier is a terrier which was custom designed by Captain John Tucker Edwardes, an Otter Hound enthusiast. Captain Edwardes desired to produce a dog which would be agile enough to rout out the Otters from between the rocks and crevices in which they hid, into his waiting pack of Otter hounds. Besides, he reasoned, the landowners of the Wales countryside needed a dog that could more easily get into the burrows of the animals which killed their chickens and destroyed their grain stores. His Sealyham Terrier fit the bill, being speedy enough to run with the hounds and small and agile enough to go to ground and less "scrappy" in nature so that he got along well with the pack. This terrier is by nature more of a pack dog than many terriers, this is perhaps due to the genetic addition of the Basset in the gene pool. Whatever the reason, this terrier, although "game" when it comes to the hunt, is more of a couch potato than other terrier types and is noted for being laid back.

The Sealyham is a small dog about 12 inches at the shoulder, with an appearance of stockiness to his body. The coat is the typical wire coat, being white with patches of badger on the head and ears. It is long and should be hand stripped, although pet owners are more likely to take it to the groomer and have it clipped. He is a dog whose form exemplifies his function. The body is deep chested and the back perfectly straight and while the front legs are short the hind legs have a well bent stifle. In layman's terms this type of angulation means that the dog is exceptionally agile and suited to the type of terrain that is rough and rocky. It also means that he has endurance and speed, both necessary features for a dog meant to run the otter to the ground. Temperamentally he is a persistent dog and not likely to give in, stubbornness is a trait that can be difficult when it comes to training but is an excellent quality for a dog that hunts.

In modern day, this terrier is not such a hunter and has adapted himself well to civilized apartment life. He is gentle and affectionate and also adaptable. He prefers the indoor life and makes a great city dog, a short walk will suffice for exercise and he is quite happy spending the rest of his time with the family. If he is brought up with other dogs in the household, he gets along well with them.

The Sealyham is very popular as a show dog, having been registered with both the American kennel club and the British Kennel club since 1910.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Horse Fences 101

2009-01-04T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Liz Smith

Not any fence is effective as a fence for horses. These magnificent creatures have specific attributes and characteristics that demand certain types of fencing to protect them, as well as to keep them on the owner's property. Good, sturdy horse fences, can amount to a very large investment, especially for large animals like horses that require a correspondingly large perimeter. Many factors need to be considered before installing the best possible horse fence, such as the following:

· Protection - Horses are grazing animals and need to roam about in the open air. They need to be protected from undesired and unauthorized visitors as well as from other animals like dogs (and in some areas, wolves).

· Confinement - This isn't so much to keep them in, but to prevent horses from accidentally getting out. The fence must be sturdy and all exit gates must be secured by locks. Height is also an issue since horses will attempt to leap over a low fence if frightened suddenly.

· Separation - Larger farms and breeding facilities may need to separate groups of horses by age, sex, value and use.

· Esthetic concerns - In situations where the horses are a marketable commodity, an attractive and well-designed fencing system will enhance the impression of a well-run facility. It's also important to allow easy viewing of the horses by interested potential buyers.

· Practicality - Working farms and ranches are busy places and the horse fence you install needs to account for this. Feed must be provided and manure removed, and easy access to the horses has to be integral to the design. Gates must accommodate horses, riders, or both.

· Topography and Climate - By this we are referring to the lay of the land. Will the fencing be set up on a flat prairie plain or rolling pastureland? The weather may often be rainy, which may cause problems for a wooden fence.

An electric horse fence is also an option in areas where intruding wildlife is a concern or where developed land such as airports is near the farm. These fences are low-voltage and do not harm the horses or wildlife. Taking into account all of these factors, it's well worth your while to provide the best possible fencing for your horses. Simply installing a barbed wire fence or a rickety wooden rail fence is just asking for trouble - Murphy's Law definitely applies here!

Liz Smith writes about horse fences and other fences for homedoctor.net fencing.

Getting Your Pup To Sleep

2009-01-03T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by V Brown

You and your new pup have had a wonderful day, and as far as you're concerned everything is perfect then bed time hits.

The first few nights you have your new puppy can be an experience like nothing you've encountered before. Here's some general tips that may help smooth the transition from sleeping with its littermates to sleeping on its own.

Pups should have a warm place to sleep. Never just leave them outside of a night time, instead use the laundry, or outside garden shed etc. Any place that is enclosed and can provide shelter, at least until the dog is older.

Cover the floor with newspaper, this will not only help clean up any over night accidents but will also help when it comes to toilet training. If you've used a blanket during the day for your pup to sleep on, put that on the floor as well, using the command of bed during the day will also help when it comes to training and going to bed of a night time. When it comes to going to bed at night, if you have an old jumper or other piece of clothing that carries your scent, place that on the blanket as well.

Make sure your pup has plenty of water, a few puppy biscuits and some chew toys. This will help to keep your pup amused during the long hours of the night.

Having a radio, or other low volume noise playing in the background can also be helpful, anything to give your puppy the impression that he is not alone.

Never go in and smack your puppy because he is crying, he's lonely. Not only is he missing his littermates, but now he's also missing you. If you do need to go in and try and settle him down, don't make it a play time - it can encourage bad habits. Go in and settle him then leave him alone again.

When morning eventually comes (and sometimes it can seem like an extraordinarily long night) go in and praise him and take him outside(or other assigned area) to do his business.

These are just some general tips that may prove helpful. Just remember that puppies will learn what's right and wrong fairly quickly so always praise them when they do the right thing. It won't be long before you're once again having a peaceful nights sleep.

V.Brown is a long time dog owner/lover. After recently acquiring another new pup she has decided to share her tips as she once again puts them to practice. http://www.freewebs.com/dogzspotz/index.htm

Baby Penguins

2009-01-02T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Peter Emerson

Penguins are a group of flightless birds found only in the southern hemisphere. They are of the order Sphenisciformes and the family Spheniscidae. There are seventeen species of penguins in the world, the largest of which is the Empire penguin, which stands at an average height of 3 feet and 9 inches. Most people think that penguins live only in the coldest places on Earth like Antarctica, but penguins also live in the tropics. A species of penguins live in the Galapagos Islands near the equator.

Penguins are some of the most familiar animals in the planet, although most people have never seen a penguin in the wild. But most people recognize penguins because of the distinct and easily identifiable black-and-white plumage that all penguins have. Penguins, in their natural habitat, are extremely adapted to the aquatic life. The sea is their main source of food, which consists of fish and small crustaceans called krill.

Penguins have a peculiar mating habit; some penguins will mate for life, while others for just one season. Penguin parents usually cooperate in taking care of their baby penguins. But it is mostly the task of the male penguin to incubate the egg until it is hatched. It is amazing how penguins take care of their offspring in the extreme cold and harshness of their habitat. Baby penguins are hatched covered with a grayish down that protects the chicks from the cold.

Throughout the nesting period, baby penguins are confined to the burrow or nest where they are fed by their parents. When baby penguins reach the age where they don't need constant care from their parents, they are often grouped in nurseries where they wait while their parents hunt for food. One amazing trait of both parent and baby penguins is that they recognize each other even in the midst of hundreds of penguins. Once the baby penguin sheds its downy feathers and gets its plumage, it can then start to fend for himself.

Penguins provides detailed information on Penguins, Emperor Penguins, Cartoon Penguins, Baby Penguins and more. Penguins is affiliated with Horse Tack for Sale.

5 Ways To Pamper Your Parrot

2009-01-01T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Taylor Knight

We are all busy these days and I know it's hard to meet all the demands in your life. But, it's time for a breather. Take an some time with each of your feathered kids and give them the royal treatment. I know some of you out there have multiple birds, so it doesn't have to be all the parrots in the same day! Get into the habit of doing at least a short version of this regularly. Your parrots will thank you!

Some birds are more 'social' than others. Two of mine I can pick up and snuggle with without fear of needing stitches. The other one I have to be really careful with. I use a stick as his main form of transport. No matter what level of 'snuggliness' your parrot prefers, you can adjust each step to your parrot's comfort level.

I hope both you and your feathered kids have a great time. Not only is this a great time for your bird, but you get a relax a bit as well. For an added bonus, turn the phone off!

Spend some quality one-on-one time
Just hang out together. Let them help you pick up around the house. My cockatoo likes to help me fold laundry. One of my African Greys prefers to chat in English back and forth. My other African Grey likes to sit on me and get scratches while I lay on the couch.

He runs up and down me, the couch and sometimes perches on my knee and just sits there. You could put on some rainforest or classical music and just sit quietly together for a little bit. There are no rules, the point is just to give your bird your undivided attention.

Share a meal
Fix up some nice vegetables, fruit, pasta or any other bird-safe dish that pleases your parrot's palate. Share with your bird, heck, eat off the same plate. One bite for you, one little bite for them. Of course, remember to give them their own spoon or fork so you don't give them your icky human germs.

Interactive Play
Hand toys like birdie bagels, barbells or marbella shapes; a piece of rope, a popsicle stick, a towel, even a wadded up piece of paper can be really run interactive bird toys.

There are hundreds of safe and fun things to play with. Lighten up and show your bird a good time. One of my African Greys loves to play catch with a wadded up piece of paper. When catch time is over, he loves to shred it up. It doesn't have to be expensive, it just has to be fun!

New Toy
Give your parrot something new to do when hanging out in inside the cage! Remodel a little. Rearrange the toys that are in there and purchase a new one. Parrots get board! Why not buy an extra toy or two for later while you are at it. You could rotate the toys when your parrot loses interest in it. I have a birdie toy box that all my toys go into. Periodically, I pull their current toys out and put some from the box in. The others go back into the toy box for later use. If the toys are damaged quite a bit, see if you can use the parts from several toys to make a new toy. Rotating and recycling toys prevents boredom, saves you money and gives your parrot a change of scenery regularly.

Shower
What pampering session would be complete without a nice shower or bath? Depending on your parrot's preference, let them splash around in the sink or tub. Mist your bird with a squirt bottle or for a finer water spray you could use a birdie mister like Mr. Mister. I use a Mr. Mister for all my parrots, in fact they have their own shower perch. Whatever they prefer, make it fun!

Your Parrot Place
Taylor Knight is President of Your Parrot Place, providers of the highest quality parrot food, toys, cages and supplies available. YourParrotPlace.com - Only the Best for Your Parrot!

Free Parrot eBooks!
140 pages of parrot tips, information, nutrition advice, safety and more! http://www.yourparrotplace.com/ebooks/free_ebooks.htm

Does Your Dog Dig

2008-12-31T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Larry Combs

Dear Fellow Dog Lover,

I assume you love your dog, or you probably wouldn't be reading this. But, looking at your "battle-field" of a yard filled with holes sometimes makes it tough to love your dog like you want to. You look out the window, and there he is digging like crazy, for no apparent reason. As if there is something buried there that he HAS to have right now! My Border Collie used to drive me nuts!

So, I started checking around. Calling every dog expert I could find trying find someone who knew the answers. Then, Bingo! I found a trainer in who actually had some ideas.

He said most dogs don't dig for no reason. They smell something that intrigues them and compells them to dig. It could be many things. From moles to mold.

In my case it was mold from an old decaying tree stump just under the surface. "Buster" had dug a virtual "foxhole" around the area.

Here's what I discovered. First, there are some commercial products you can by like "Keep Off" and "Repell" and I had some success with them. But, they soon loose their effect. Either they simply wear off, or get washed away by rain, etc. But the attraction to dig remains.

Here's what I did that actually broke Buster forever!

The trainer who finally helped told me to put Busters stool in the holes. I said "will that really work?" And he said "Well, unless your dog likes digging in s---." I grabbed my shovel and everytime I cleaned up after Buster's "business" I put the stool in the hole. It worked almost immediately. Everytime Buster dug a new hole, I started filling it with poop. Within a week Buster gave up and quit digging.

So, since you need to clean your yard anyway, you might give it try. Get a couple bags of top soil, put in the poop, fill with the soil and plant some grass seed. Soon you'll have your yard looking like a yard again.

I hope I have been of some help. If you have any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to email me at jennasgifts@cinci.rr.com

Wishing you and your dog happiness always,

Janet Combs

If you would like to learn more about training and caring for your Bichon Frise go to http://www.combsinfo.com

Celebrities Discover The Amazing Chihuahua

2008-12-30T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Bill Knell

Some say it started with the Taco Bell dog. A five hundred million dollar ad campaign featured a talking Chihuahua which continually repeated the slogan, "Yo quiero Taco Bell," which is Spanish for "I want Taco Bell." Then came the Legally Blond films and the unstoppable Bruiser. The topping on the cake was when Paris Hilton appeared on the cover of Seventeen magazine and later tried living The Simple Life on Fox TV with Tinkerbell, her pet Chihuahua. Celebrities have discovered what many pet owners already knew: Chihuahuas are the best dogs to own and care for. In the process, they've set off a Chihuahua Craze that is reaching towering proportions.

When most people think of Celebrities and their toy dogs, Yorkshire Terriers, Toy Poodles, Pekinese, Lhasas and Shih Tzus usually come to mind. That's because famous folks like Audrey Hepburn, Zsa Zsa Gabor and Mia Farrow were regularly photographed with their beloved pets. In Audrey's case, it was a Yorkie. In her early days of fame, Mia Farrow was rarely seen out in public without her Lhasa. Zsa Zsa and Eva Gabor loved to walk through the hot spots of Beverly Hills and be photographed with a multitude of Toy Poodles, Pekinese and Shih Tzus. But times have changed!

The always innovative Madonna may have set the standard for change not long ago when she sported her beloved Chihuahua, Chiquita, for a press photo op. Noah Wyle, one of the hot stars of ER, was recently photographed with his Chihuahua while on holiday. Jennifer Lopez has also joined the exclusive club of famous Chihuahua owners. Younger celebrities like Britney Spears, Hilary Duff, Paris Hilton, Christina Ricci, Jordon, Reese Witherspoon and members of Simple Plan have found themselves attracted to these fabulous canines and brought a huge amount of attention to them.

Chihuahuas make great pets because they are very low maintenance, the world's smallest dogs and longest lived breed. Celebs love the fact that Chihuahuas prefer the company of humans more then they enjoy being with other animals and can easily accompany their owners everywhere. Chihuahuas love to be held or carried around in their very own shoulder bag and that makes them especially attractive to busy celebrities and people who are always on the move.

Unlike most toy dog breeds, the Chihuahua is not a created one. The first widespread mention of Chihuahuas occurred during the mid to late 1800's in weekly or monthly tabloids that specialized in tales of the American West. Highly fictionalized accounts of the small dogs spread by these publications claimed they were actually a mix of rodent and canine or had been magically created by Medicine Men. In reality, Chihuahuas were first noticed along the Arizona-Mexico border by settlers, ranchers and those passing through. This lead to the animals becoming originally-known as Arizona Dogs. Once it began obvious that these cute little dogs were actually coming out of the Chihuahua region of Mexico where they had been discovered in the early 1800's, the regional name stuck.

For the first time ever this past year, Chihuahuas have made the top ten list of most registered or licensed dogs in many areas of the USA. There can be no doubt that part of their popularity comes from the media exposure the breed has received and the fact that big-name celebrities are favoring the breed. But it also has to do with the fact that Chihuahuas are small, very easy to care for and live a long time.

Most Chihuahuas eat dry dog food and feed once every couple of hours or as their hunger moves them. A small, full bowl of dry food and dish of water easily gets them through an entire day. Chihuahuas are known for being healthy, hearty dogs that do well in virtually any situation. They can easily deal with temperatures of forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit. When it gets a bit too chilly, doggie clothes solve the problem. When it gets too hot, Chihuahuas are always happy to enjoy their owner's air conditioning. Most have few health issues and live from fifteen to nineteen years of age, with an average lifespan of sixteen years.

Those wanting to breed Chihuahuas are often surprised to find that they can give birth up to twice a year, normally have from one to five puppies and take just sixty-five days to give birth. Few have problem births and the survival rate of pups is very high compared to other toy breeds. Chihuahua puppies are ready to be adopted by eight weeks.

Because celebrities are constantly exposed to new situations and always on the go, they can appreciate the fact that most Chihuahuas tend to attach themselves emotionally to one person or family and rarely bolt if given the opportunity. All Chihuahua owners appreciate the intelligence of the breed. They are very easy to train and adjust well to change. In areas where it's legal, Chihuahuas walk obediently near their owners without a leash.

Chihuahuas come from the same parent breed of dogs that Chinese Cresteds, Mexican Hairless Dogs and Xolos do. These are known to be the most ancient of all dog breeds still existing today. Drawings of what appear to be Chihuahuas are found throughout the world, some being thousands of years old. This makes us wonder when and where the Breed actually originated? Most Chihuahuas are either shorthair or longhair, come in an amazing variety of colors and purebreds tend to weigh from under a pound to no more then six pounds fully grown.

As Chihuahuas are featured in more and more films, television shows and become the beloved pets of an ever growing list of the rich and famous, we should all remember that they are more then just the hot breed of the moment. Chihuahuas are great pets that are very loyal to their owners. If you are planning to adopt a Chihuahua, do so because the breed is attractive to your needs, desires and lifestyle, not because Paris owns one. You can read more about Chihuahuas at http://tiny.azpuppies.com and find free dog training and health tips at http://doggiestyle.billknell.com

Author's Email: bill knell@cox.net
Author's Website: http://www.billknell.com
Author's Phone: 480-632-7909
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Bio: A native New Yorker now living in Arizona, Bill Knell is a forty-something guy with a wealth of knowledge and experience. Bill has produced many successful videos and hosted a top-rated cable TV show sponsored by Time/Life Books. He's written hundreds of articles on a wide variety of subjects and you've read about Bill in The New Yorker Magazine, The New York Times, Omni and hundreds of local, national and international publications worldwide. A popular Speaker, Bill Knell presents seminars on a number of topics that entertain, train and teach.

Why Your Dog Should Have A Bed

2008-12-29T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Mike Steele

Like humans, your dog will enjoy a quality dog bed for all of the same reasons we do. Quality beds provide warmth, support, as well as a sense of security for your dog. Providing your pal with a bed of their own does far more for them than what is listed above.

When a pet owner asks what items they will need for their pet, a quality dog bed should be near the top of their list! Aside from the usual collar, leash, food and water dishes. Providing your dog with a bed should not be an option as their benefits far outweigh their cost.

A few benefits of providing a quality bed for your dog:

Insulation: Quality beds provide your dog with insulation from both the heat of the summer or the bitter cold of winter and fall. Beds such as the Snuggle Ball Bed, provide warmth and comfort for your dog, especially in the winter months.

Personal Space: Providing your dog with a bed allows them to have their own space. A place, where they can curl up, and relax, adding an additional sense of security for your pooch.

Cushion/Support: Especially for older dogs, as well as dogs with other joint or bone problems. Beds such as the Orthocare Bed and Ortho Mat Bed are specifically designed to aid in relieving of pets with sore joints, bones, or other problems due to age, weight, or other joint related problems.

Shed & Dander Control: Providing your dog with a bed can also aid, by providing you with a "main" area in which a majority of their shedding and/or dander issues can be contained. Reversible Bolster Beds, provide you pet with an additional laying surface, should you not have time do your doggie's wash. Durabeds are also available, which are incredibly easy to clean; just wipe down with a wet paper towel!

Injury Prevention: Using a dog bed in your home can help reduce the chances of "furniture hazards", such as jumping off the couch; often your pooches favorite place to lay, especially when you are away.

Protection from the Elements: Providing a pooch who lives outdoors most of the time with a bed is critical. The Outdoor Bed is tough and water repellent and can be used inside or out. Easy to clean, this bed is also specifically treated to eliminate mold, fungus, or other outdoor hazards which may affect your dog.

Spend some time determining which bed is best suited for your dog, remembering that this will become a favorite resting place for your pooch! Unfortunately, low quality beds are easily torn and often first to "break-down", never truly offering your dog the benefits of a higher quality bed. Shop around, as there are many good choices out there. Most importantly, think of the bed as an investment, because many High Quality beds will last the lifetime of your dog, and by purchasing one of these, so will their benefits!

Mike Steele

http://www.dog.com/

Could A Golden Retriever Be The Right Dog Breed For You

2008-12-28T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Andy Matthews

Intelligent, and keen to learn, they were originally bred to retrieve game, but they have readily adapted to new roles as guide dogs for the blind, drug detection work, and competing at the highest level in obedience. However, before you rush out and buy one of these charming and friendly dogs, you need to be sure that the Golden Retriever is the right choice of dog for you, and your family.

Owners of Golden's owe a debt to Lord Tweedmouth of England who first introduced them as a definite breed during the 19th century. Bred with a natural working ability, they were easily classified as members of the Sporting Group. This is a high energy dog, and is going to need plenty of brisk exercise, especially in the early years.

The Golden likes to keep busy. Retrieving a ball on your walks will help him to burn up most of his abundant energy. Keeping them occupied when they are young is important. Trust me, they will find ways to entertain themselves, such as demolishing every shoe you possess.

The Golden Retriever is a large, muscular dog, standing 22 to 24 inches tall, and weighing in at 55 to 80 pounds. They have kind eyes, and a broad head, which may offer a clue as to why they are so intelligent. Coats are quite dense, and colors range from a deep, honey colored gold to a light golden.

They are average shedders so frequent grooming is advisable if you don't want dog hair all over your furniture. To prevent mats from developing brush him through with a good bristle brush, paying particular attention to the area behind his ears.

Golden's will be okay in an apartment providing you exercise them frequently. They need a good daily romp in the park as well as walking on the lead. If your a keen gardener, fence off an area for your dog, as most Golden Retrievers also love gardening. While they are at the puppy stage, they love to dig, and also enjoy chewing up the shrubbery.

Goldens Retrievers are large dogs, and they like to eat. So this is an expense that you need to consider. Healthwise, they are prone to hip dysplasia, and can suffer from eye problems. Skin allergies are quite common, and you should consult your veterinarian straight away if you detect a problem.

This breed make excellent family dogs. They are friendly towards everyone, and kind and gentle with children. Golden puppies are naturally boisterous, and you could find that toddlers may accidentally get bowled over when your pup is playing.

Because they are eager to please their owners this breed is relatively easy to train. You can find a dog training method that works well with a Golden. And you could also arrange to attend obedience classes with him. This will help to socialize him, getting him used to other dogs and people. Training your Golden Retriever when he is a small puppy, is a much better idea, than waiting till he is a 70lb adult and a real handful to control. So is the Golden the right dog for you? There's no doubt that they make loyal and loving family pets, their huge popularity is testament to that. But, popularity can also bring with it its own problems.

A healthy, even tempered Golden Retriever is a real pleasure to own. So, if you've made your mind up to get one of these beautiful dogs, make sure that you choose a reputable breeder to buy your puppy from.

Andy Matthews is the best friend of Suki, a 2 year old Cocker Spaniel, who has tirelessly built from scratch http://www.top-dogs-names.com. Check it out it's kind of unique!

Colours Shapes And Sizes Make For Different Types Of Goldfish

2008-12-27T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Mark Sturge

The types of goldfish vary, and the characteristics that make this diversity evident are recognized in their scale colouring, the shape and size of the goldfish, the look of their tails, and of course, by their different names. Nevertheless, regardless of how one goldfish may look, or if it has a different title from the next, all goldfish come from the same family, originating from the gibel carp found in the streams of China.

The only reason why there are so many unique looking types of goldfish is because they have been purposely bread to look different.

Why? It may or may not come as a surprise to you but appearance matters to goldfish enthusiasts, and may be something you will want to consider yourself when looking at the types of goldfish that are available on the market.

For instance, did you know that goldfish are available in more colours than just gold? In fact, there are goldfish that are coloured yellow, red, bronze, blue and even black! What's more is there are some goldfish that have a mixture of colours in their scales. However, although goldfish scales can come in more than one shade, hue, or splash of colour, many types of goldfish are also categorized by their tails.

There are four types of goldfish tail categories that you can consider when selecting your goldfish. The four categories include the single tailed, double tailed, double tailed without dorsal fin, and the double tailed with dorsal fin. While each type of goldfish in these categories has differences within their own groups based on their colour, body and fin size, the one feature which remains constant within their grouping is their shape. Take for example the single tailed goldfish, which has three goldfish within its category: Comets, Commons and Shubunkins. Although each of these types of goldfish has a slender body shape, Comets generally have gold scales and a long single fin tail, whereas the Shubunkins is bigger in size, and has calico coloured (a mix of violet, orange red and black) scales.

Aside from these noted differences, you will discover that the single tailed goldfish, as well as the double tailed goldfish, share the same slender body shape characteristic; while both the double tailed goldfish with the dorsal fin and those without, feature an egg shaped body. Moreover, the double tailed with the dorsal fin, and those double tailed without the dorsal fin are unique types of goldfish that have exotic characteristics. Some of these characteristics include a wen (head growth) seen in the Oranda and Pearlscale goldfish, and telescope eyes, as seen in the Telescope and Moors goldfish.

As you can see, there are many aspects to consider when it comes to choosing from the different available types of goldfish. Just remember, depending on the fish you want, certain care methods will be required that are based on different characteristics for each of the goldfish types.

Mark Sturge is webmaster of goldfish-answers.com. A site where you can learn all about goldfish care and the different types of goldfish to choose from.

Grooming Your Poodle

2008-12-26T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Robin Darch

Poodle grooming can be a daunting task, but a necessary part of owning this particular breed. Well-groomed poodles have healthier skin and coats and grooming also helps prevent health problems.

A poodle's hair never stops growing, so a full clipping is necessary every six to eight weeks. If you can afford it, it may be best to pay someone else to groom your poodle. The steps involved can be labor intensive and it is sometimes best left to a professional.

Choose your groomer carefully and take advice from other poodle owners in your area. You might want to consider scooping out different breeders in the area. Visit their shops without your dog and pay attention to how the facility is managed. Look for a clean shop and a groomer with a gentle hand and manner.

If money is an issue, you can use a professional groomer every second time. You can maintain your poodles grooming yourself in between visits and save money.

To maintain your poodle's cut between visits, you will need some quality dog grooming tools. Your groomer can often purchase professional tools for you at a discount, or you can find quality tools at a good pet store or at a dog show.

You will need a high quality pair of clippers and scissors. Keep your clippers in top working condition by cleaning the blades and oiling them regularly. Dull blades can scrape the skin of your poodle and cause clipper burn. Look for a pair of clippers that have a many blades, this way you can rotate the blades during the grooming session if need be.

You will also need quality brushes and combs to maintain your poodle's cut between grooming sessions. Your dog should be well brushed at least twice a week, if not daily.

Even though poodles don't shed as much as other dogs, they do lose hair. That hair remains in the dog's coat until you brush it out. Brushing will also keep your poodle's coat shiny by distributing the skin's natural oils.

Ask your groomer for brush recommendations, as the right brush will depend on what type of cut your poodle has. Bi-weekly brushing sessions can be a great way to bond with your dog. Gentle but vigorous brushing will make your dog feel good and increase circulation in the skin.

You can bathe your poodle as often as once a week. Using a raised tub with a non-slip mat will make the experience more pleasurable for you both. To start, use warm water to soak your dog's coat to the skin.

Since poodles are water dogs they naturally shed water so it might take some effort to get the coat completely wet. You can use a mild dog shampoo to bathe your poodle.

Make sure to rinse the shampoo out of the dog's coat thoroughly. Any leftover residue can be irritating to the dog's skin. After your poodle's bath you can let the dog air dry for a curly look, or brush out the hair while blow-drying to give the coat a smooth and fluffy look.

Robin Darch, of PRT Specialised Services Limited has a website, My Pet Dog to help you find all the information you need about pet dogs, dog grooming and training.

Ten Tips For Caring For Your Betta Fish

2008-12-25T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Adam Short

Betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish are one of the most popular types of fish found in homes across the world. Their vibrant color and active lifestyle seems to draw in fish fanatics as well as those who have never had fish before. Betta's are relatively easy to care for and their low maintenance is particularly appealing to people who would like to have fish but don't have a lot of time to care for them.

Once you bring your Betta's home you should begin to familiarize yourself with their movements and typical behavior patterns. When you look at your fish after you've had them for awhile you'll know if something is wrong, if they are not feeling well, or if the water in their bowl is not in the best condition simply by being observant.

1. Make sure the jar or bowl that you keep your Betta in is big enough so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough oxygen.

2. Your Betta will thrive in the cleanest water that you can provide for him. He does not require a filtration system, but you should change out a third of his water every three days so it stays fresh and clean and keeps your finned friend from getting bacterial or fungal infections. Aged water (water that has set out for twenty four hours) is what should be used to replace the old water.

3. Do not put your Betta fish with other Betta's. They are called Siamese fighting fish because they are, in fact, fighting fish. They will tear at one another, often causing the death of at least one fish before they stop. Betta's can be coupled with algae eaters, guppies, or corydorus catfish safely.

4. Use a turkey baster to clean small particles of uneaten food or debris from the bottom of the bowl or jar. Allowing this debris to sit at the bottom of the jar will cause the water to become cloudy, unsanitary, and to smell awful.

5. The PH of your tank should be at exactly 7.0. You can get a PH testing kit at your pet store along with solutions to minimize or increase the PH of your water.

6. When you clean the plants, rocks, or decorations in the bowl you should never use soap on them. It's very hard to completely rinse all soap from these items and the soap residue can harm or even kill your Betta. Instead, use warm water and an abrasive brush to clean his things.

7. Keep your Betta tank, jar, or bowl covered! Your Beta will jump and you don't want him to end up flopping on the tabletop! Keeping the water level at least two inches from the top of the tank should also cut down on this problem.

8. Your Betta is a meat eater and likes live foods, such as brine shrimp the best. Frozen bloodworms are also a good choice for your meat eater. Most Betta fish will happily eat the Betta pellets sold at most pet stores. For a special treat every now and again you should offer some live food! You'll have fun watching him eat it up!

9. Do not decorate your Betta bowl with rocks or marbles that may cause your Betta to get stuck between or under them. Be sure that they are a flat smooth surface that provides no risk to the health of your fish.

10. Remember that your fish is a living, breathing responsibility. You need to feed, clean, and care for your Betta just like you would any other pet. If he's sick take him to the vet, if he's hungry feed him, if his home is dirty, clean it.

That's it! These ten tips for caring for your Betta fish will have you well on your way to keeping a healthy fish. Internet Betta Groups or library books can be a great source of information should you want to learn more about your finned friend!

Adam Short is the owner of Betta Fish Center and co-wrote the above article with Amanda Fenton. Amanda has been caring for Betta fish for over 25 years. She is a contributing writer to http://www.bettafishcenter.com - site providing information and tips on betta fish care.

The Shih Tzu Common Health Issues

2008-12-24T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Don Krnel

Although disease affects all different breeds of dog, certain breeds are more prone to certain ailments than others, due to their particular anatomical structure, genetic make-up, or other factors. In this article, we will briefly describe some of the most common ailments that affect the Shih Tzu.

Eyes and Ears: Because of the anatomical structure of the Shih Tzu's head, their eyes are especially vulnerable to being injured. This can be caused by collisions with foreign objects, encounters with other animals, rough play, etc. Eye injuries are probably the most avoidable of all ailments that affect the Shih Tzu and can be prevented to a large degree by providing a safe environment for the dog to play in, with special care taken to removal of potentially injurious objects. Shih Tzu should always be supervised when interacting with other animals and should discouraged from rough play. Another important preventive measure is to keep the eyes and eye area as clean as possible. Avoid allowing crustiness or dirt to accumulate. When grooming, it is recommended that the hair covering the eye area be left at a reasonable length as it protects the eyes from dirt and debris.

A genetically linked disease that often affects the Shih Tzu is Progressive Retinal Atrophy, or PRA. PRA is basically the de generation of the retina and retinal tissue over time and can lead to blindness at an early age. If a dog is suspected of having PRA, veterinary care should be provided. As PRA is an inheritable disease, dogs that suffer from the affliction should not be bred.

Shih Tzu are also very susceptible to ear infections. Ear infections are generally not serious and can be treated easily by a veterinarian. Some preventive methods include keeping the inside of the ears immaculately clean and free of hair and other debris.

Bones, Joints, and Internal Organs: Another genetically linked disease that affects ShihTzu is Hip Dysplasia. Hip Dysplasia is a degenerative disease that affects the function of the ball-and-socket joint of the hip. This can be an extremely debilitating disease and cannot always be corrected by surgery. Dogs suffering from Hip Dysplasia should not be bred.

Renal Dysplasia is an inherited disease that affects normal kidney function which, in turn, affects the overall health of the dog. Although Renal Dysplasia is more prevalent in older dogs, it can also affect young puppies and in some cases, can be fatal. Dog with Renal Dysplasia should not be part of any breeding program.

Other Concerns: Just as in humans, some Shih Tzu suffer from abnormal thyroid function. This can be treated with medication prescribed by a veterinarian, although the dog may have need of the medication for the entirety of their lives.

Shih Tzu also seem to be prone to certain types of allergies including food allergies, flea allergies, and hypersensitivity to environmental substances. This can lead to any number of secondary ailments, such as irritated skin, hair loss, and overall poor health. Allergy testing can be performed by a veterinarian and can be treated with medication.

Learn more about Dogs and Puppies on Don Krnel's site dogsandpuppies.info

What To Look For To Buy A Healthy Betta Fish

2008-12-23T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Mary Jensen

Many of the betta fish available to buy at stores are already sick from being kept in unhealthy conditions. You'll have a better chance to find a healthy fish from a pet store than a convenience store. Your best chances would be to purchase one directly from a breeder, however. In any case, you want to choose a healthy fish to have the best start, giving it a good chance for a long life. Did you know that Betta fish can live up to five years? A fish that starts out sick, however, may only live up to six months after purchase. It's easier to care for a healthy fish than to revive an unhealthy one.

Here are the different aspects to look for when choosing your fish:

Environment: Are the cups clean or are they full of dirty water? Is there a bad smell in the air? It could be from dead fish.

Color: Bettas are known for their vibrant coloring. Of course, there are variations that are pale or white. More likely, however, the dull color is a sign of stress or poor health.

Behavior: You want an active fish, floating upright, not spending too much time on the bottom. If a fish is motionless it could be sleeping. Don't tap on the glass as that will stress it out. Be subtle trying to get his attention.

Body: The body should be full and sleek, with no noticeable bumps. If it has white splotches it could have a fungus.

Fins: The fins should be free of wholes or tears, and spread fully instead of clamped together.

Scales: The scales should be flat and smooth. They shouldn't be loose or peeling.

Gills: Gills should be smooth, not red or stringy.

Eyes: The eyes should be dark and clear. They should not be bulging or sunken.

If something just doesn't look or feel right, pass on that fish and look at another one. It's good to trust your instincts. If there are many healthy fish to choose from, then go with personal preference.

You can use these same signs to watch the health of your betta fish after purchase. There are many resources on the web that you can find to increase the health and longevity of your fish. Put "Betta Care" in the search engine to get started. Good luck with your new fish!

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Belgian Malinois Protector Of Home Family And Livestock

2008-12-22T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Evan Richer

The Belgian Malinois is a medium/large size dog that weighs between 40-80 lbs and is between 22" to 26" in height. Their name is pronounced MAL-in-wah. They are one of four Belgian Sheepdogs and are very work oriented and are protective of home, family and livestock.

The AKC recognizes the Belgian Malinois in the colors of fawn to mahogany to red with a black mask, ears and tips. Minimal white on the chest and feet is permitted. The short, smooth, straight and hard outer coat and dense undercoat require minimal grooming and are very easy to care for. Regular washing is not recommended as their coat has water proofing.

This intelligent, energetic, protective breed is still more of a working dog than companion. They have a strong drive to work. The Belgian Malinois makes an excellent farm dog, watchdog, police dog and herding dog because of their instinct to protect their family, home or whatever else they are trained to protect. They can make a great family pet as well. Early socialization is a must for children, other dogs and pets. In fact, they do best if they are socialized from the time they are born. They can be dominant towards other dogs. Early, consistent, firm but not harsh training is important. They are harder for a novice to train than someone who is more experienced. The Belgian Malinois has a lot of energy and loves to be on the go. They require a yard and plenty of room to run and play. They are not meant to be indoors all day. They enjoy being with their family and are not meant to be left alone for long periods of time as they will get bored and find some way to fill their time.

Originating in Belgium, the Belgian Malinois is one of four Belgian Sheepdogs. Their name comes from the Belgian city of Malines. It is recognize as its own breed by the AKC however, in some countries, all four Belgian Sheepdogs are considered to be one breed. The Belgian Malinois is popular in Belgium and is used for herding, police work and as a search and rescue dog.

A breed with such a strong work drive, protective instinct and high energy makes an excellent watchdog and farm dog. They do best with families that are active and will meet their work and exercise needs. An active, busy Belgian Malinois is a happy Belgian Malinois.

Learn more about the Belgian Malinois or discuss Dogs with other dog lovers at http://www.deardoggy.com

Using Dog Leash Training To Control Your Pooch

2008-12-21T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Kevin Simmons

Many pet owners don't like using a leash, for a wide variety of reasons: "My dog stays right next to me." "He pulls the leash too much." "My dog wants to explore on his own terms." "I feel like a leash restricts my dog, and I don't believe in that."

However, in order to keep your dog safe, you require control of your pet. Your dog also needs to know this, to ensure he's aware who the boss is. And, once you train your dog to not pull on his leash, or other bothersome behaviors (take a course through a local dog obedience school), you'll figure out just how fantastic dog leash training really is.

A dog that doesn't have any boundaries, such as a leash and an owner, doesn't realize that others have boundaries that he is required to respect. Proper dog leash training will show your pet what is expected of him at all times, no matter what is thrown at him. You cannot control if another dog attacks your pet, runs out into traffic, gets distracted by a wild animal or is so excited that he's not paying attention to his surroundings if your dog is unleashed. But with some dog leash training and a few commands he recognizes, you'll have the utmost of control in almost any situation.

Essentially, you are teaching your dog respect with a leash. And this training requires frequent, consistent, and appropriately timed positive reinforcement. Without a leash, this is pretty difficult.

If your dog, for instance, doesn't respond well to the command, 'Come', then using a leash can help with this skill tremendously. Try it the next time you go for a walk. Put the leash on your dog, and go for a leisurely walk where you know he'll be tempted to do something he's not supposed to. When he does it, gently say, "Come". If he does not respond right away, use the leash (once again, gently you don't want to choke or otherwise hurt your dog!) to tell him what is expected of him, while saying the word, "Come" again. Repeat this until your dog comes to you, and then praise him instantly.

Do this consistently over a couple of days, and you'll notice just how much easier it gets each time. Soon, you won't even need to remind your dog of your command with the leash he'll just respond appropriately and immediately, and you'll praise him just the same.

Learning how to control your animal using dog leash training is an important respect lesson for both of you, and should be used regularly to achieve the highest results.

Kevin Simmons is the webmaster of http://www.dog-training-info.com. Please visit the site for more free dog training articles. Online URL for this article: http://www.dog-training-info.com/dog-leash-training.htm

An Introduction To Dog Beds

2008-12-20T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Ken Marlborough

Some people are so attached to their pets that they wouldn't dream of asking them to simply curl up on the floor to go to sleep. Pet owners, especially dog owners, have created an industry for dog beds that rivals the bedding industry for humans in both creativity and profit margins.

Just as dogs come in a variety of sizes -- from toy Chihuahuas that fit in the palm of your hand to Great Danes who are large enough to command most of the back of that family SUV -- so do dog beds. The very first designs for dog beds stressed comfort and ease of cleaning for the small, medium, large and extra large pooch in your life. Today there is a dizzying array of options for dog beds. There are dog beds designed to look like real beds so the lucky canine doesn't feel left out, dog beds designed to look like real furniture, and dog beds for that aging canine, designed to accommodate his creaking bones and stiff joints. There are dog beds made out of fabrics designed to blend in with the décor of your home and there are dog beds that can accommodate a dog who likes to stretch out while he naps versus the type who prefers to curl up into a ball.

No longer is it sufficient to simply walk into a pet store, find a comfortable looking bed for Rex, choose a color that matches your décor, (or his) and leave. Today you have to take many factors into consideration when making decisions about your dog's sleeping quarters.

The first thing to think about is where in the house you intend to place the bed. Some people put the dog's bed in the living room, so the dog has a place to lounge other than the family sofa. Other people put the dog bed in their bedroom, so the dog can be close without needing to jump into their bed. Some other things to consider are the size of your pet, and his sleeping habits.

There are also extras such as eucalyptus treatments and cedar filling (both to repel fleas), foam filling for the comfort of arthritic animals, and various Velcro attachments. Washing and cleaning are factors to take into account as well, both in terms of everyday wear and because of the dirt incurred from other uses for the bed such as a carrier liner or car seat protector. Gone are the days when buying a dog bed was simple and easy, but the tradeoff is a truly mind-boggling array of options.

Dog Beds Info provides detailed information about small and large dog beds, as well as designer, orthopedic, and discount dog beds. Dog Beds Info is the sister site of Bird Cages Web.

Training Your Dog To Be Groomed

2008-12-19T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Michael Russell

Grooming can be a pleasure for the dog and owner, or it can be a nightmare. A dog must be taught to be groomed and this is not always an easy prospect. Of course you would be much better off to start with a young puppy so that it becomes used to being groomed early on, but unfortunately this can not always be the case. Dogs who are older and are placed in adoptive homes from shelters, for example, may not have gotten used to this process at an early age.

Many owners will ignore the grooming when they find out that they can't control the dog to do it. (Or they will spend big bucks with a groomer). However, it is very important that a dog with a long coat or a double coat be groomed on a regular basis. The coat that has mats can block air from getting to the skin, causing hot spots. A dog that is not groomed is not pleasant to be around, it will either be smelly or it will drip shedding hair off onto the furniture or your clothes. Sometimes this is one of the reasons some dogs are banished to live outside rather than in the home! Furthermore, grooming the dog on a regular basis will stimulate the skin and keep the dog healthier, in the same way that a human must wash the scalp and brush the hair to maintain a healthy scalp.

Training a dog to be groomed is not too difficult if you make up your mind to do it and get the right equipment. Getting the equipment is a small expense compared to the expense of taking the dog to a groomer. A good pair of clippers is indispensable if you have a dog with a long coat. The usual cost for clippers is about $80.00. A comb, with both wide spaced and close spaced teeth is around $7.00. An undercoat rake is around $5.00, a pin brush, $12.00 and a slicker brush, $5.00. Then of course, there are nail clippers, which will run around $12.00. Dogs with short coats will not require as much, a grooming mitten or a slicker brush will be plenty. These products are just basics but are a good start and certainly will be paid for after only or two groomings at a professional groomers!

Some folks go all out and purchase a grooming table with an arm and a big fancy dryer. As a matter of fact, most "show people" with "show dogs" will have that and much more, but the average pet owner merely needs to make sure that they have the basics.

Once you have the equipment, it is necessary that you learn how to control your dog so that you can groom him. Here is where the "training" comes in. Both long coated dogs and short coated dogs should be trained to lie or sit quietly during the grooming process and should know to roll over and expose their bellies and should allow you to handle their feet and clean their ears. Start by putting the dog into a down position and follow through with the word "stay!" then simply start to brush the dog, gently. For heaven's sakes, do not start right off the bat with yanking out big mats. Simply start in places you know the dog will enjoy being brushed, usually just along the top of the back and the shoulders. Gradually work into the places that are more tender. Push or pull the dog as necessary into the positions you need to, but be gentle and firm and speak to him as you brush. Work through the coat gently and persuade the dog with a treat to distract him when it is going to be a touchy spot. When you do get to places where mats build up and the skin is tender, this is where the clippers can come in mighty handy. Simply clipping out the mats between the hind legs and behind the ears is way easier on the dog's tender skin and certainly works just as well if not better than yanking out those mats with a comb.

Building up to longer sessions is necessary. Keep the grooming sessions short and gradually make them longer. Grooming often, several times a week, a bit at a time, will get the dog used to being handled and combed. Just keep in mind that one step at a time will eventually lead to a dog that will love to lie down and get a nice grooming. It is a great time to bond with your dog and it is something that you can make the time for, if you just make up your mind to do it. Both of you will be happier, in the end.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dog Training

The Best Pet Products For Your Pet

2008-12-18T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Amelie Gam

The love for pets pushes their owners to try to do everything possible to keep them healthy and fit. The best pet products from the best pet supply stores are needed and a lot of research has to be done to offer the right care to those animal members of the family.

Although not a primary concern for many (because they are not aware of the existing dangers), pet nutrition plays an important role in the care of an animal. Many pet owners go to a pet supply store and buy pet products, but they are not always very careful. They sometimes make mistakes by buying canned food and thinking that it is equivalent to meat. Feeding their pet with that food every day is not a good idea, because it may contain toxins and preservatives that can harm their pets. Some of them are dangerous even for the owners. So, when you decide to buy food for your pet, be very careful and avoid those containing organophosphate pesticides (Ops). The seven OPs that must be avoided are: hlorpyrifos, dichlorvos, tetrachlorvinphos, malathion, diazinon, phosmet, and naled.

The ideal food for a pet is the one made at home and combined with several vitamins bought from a pet supply store. But in many cases the owners do not have the time to prepare the food themselves. Luckily, there are some alternatives such as ready-to-eat freeze dried and frozen materials or raw meals. Pets will just love this kind of raw food. These food products have supplements and can be a good substitute in case you can't feed your dog with bones for example. They can also be found in any pet supply store so there is a double advantage: they are nutritious and easy to buy.

One must give special attention to the pet supply store from where you buy the food. A pet supply store situated in a good area can provide food of higher quality and the risks of this food being expired or rotten are substantially reduced. Of big importance is the producer of these food products. Some of them may seem a little expensive, but, in most cases, they are better than cheaper products. Made from natural food (for example from chicken raised without steroids and hormones) and containing important vitamins, fats, minerals and fatty acids, these products are important for the health of your pet. The assistance offered by the employees of your pet supply store is also very important in deciding what kind of food is suitable for your pet.

If you are not satisfied with what you found in different stores or you just don't have the time to search, the internet is a very good alternative. You can look for advice regarding the best food and the best pet products and find out that everything can be available very quickly at the push of a button. Buying for your pet online is very easy. All you need to know is what kind of food you want and then start filling your cart. If you are unsure what kind of food or other pet products are good, just use an internet search engine and type "pet products" and you will be given a list of websites that offer pet products. They will help you find out more about the food suitable and also other important advice regarding the health of your pet.

Online shopping for your pet doesn't refer only to food. It also gives you the opportunity to find other pet products. This kind of shopping gives you access to online forums with veterinarians or food experts. This type of shopping is for those who prefer staying at home with their children or even with their pets than going into a pet supply store. The only major disadvantage in online shopping is that you can't see the products with your own eyes until they are delivered. In some cases one can be disappointed by the delivered pet products. In a pet shop, products can bee seen and no surprises can be expected. However, if a surprise can occur in a "live" store, you won't be able to detect it right then and there. The expired products will surely affect your pet. This is why online stores are better.

The time of delivery is also very important in the case of online shopping. If bought from the nearby area, the products are delivered immediately and help save time for searches and bargains. The search is a lot more pleasant because it is done from the comfort of your own home. But, if the pet products are ordered from a different area, it can take some time until they are delivered. Then there is the problem of shipping fees which are cheaper if the pet products are purchased directly from a pet supply store. However, online shopping saves time and a lot of headaches. In many shop, especially on the web, there are a lot of special offers for pet products. Although they are appealing, the owner must be very careful if he wants to buy a large quantity of food or other pet products. The expiration date needs extra attention. One must also check the products to find out if they are OPs free and in case of some pet products, such as leashes, he must make sure that they are not dangerous for their pet and for the other members of the family.

If you've decided to buy online for your pet, be sure you can find hundreds of pet products and lots of advice for pet owners. There is a lot of information available. Pictures together with pet products that have a very friendly design will make your online visit a delight. If you are not satisfied with your findings, you can always use the internet search engines and look some more for the perfect pet products. You will eventually find exactly what you want.

If you don't know what the best Pet Products are or what Pet Supply Store to choose, don't worry! You've found the right place to start looking.

Puppy Protocols Introducing A Young Dog Into Your Family

2008-12-17T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Niall Kennedy

Introducing a puppy to your home can cause a lot of upheaval. You might need to move furniture and make your home dog friendly, or just change your lifestyle to make sure you are available to exercise or feed your new pet, when she needs it.

A puppy is very much like a baby.

They are cute and cuddly. They tug at your heart and you just have to give in to them. But, doing so will likely spoil that puppy into an annoying pet rather than a trusted friend. While the world of puppy can be a rewarding one, it can also be quite nerve wracking as well.

Just like children, puppies need you to watch over them virtually all the time. They like to explore and they are likely to get into things that they shouldn't. This can prove to be something that injures them or even poisons them, though. Puppies use their mouths to explore the world around them. If it has an interesting taste or texture, the dog is likely to keep at it. Now, if this is such a thing as an electrical cord, it can prove to be fatal to them.

So, what do you do if you can't be there all the time to watch your puppy? You can use baby gates as well as barriers of other types to lock off dangerous areas to your pet. Put your pet in a welcoming area where you spend time in. Provide them with toys, water and a soft place to lie and they are set to go.

Training for a pet begins from the time you allow them to enter your home.

Experts agree that the first thing a puppy needs to learn is that you are the leader of the pack. You need the dog to understand that you are the boss. They instinctively look for a leader because dogs are pack animals. If you don't take on this role, the animal will think that he is the leader instead. You don't have to be aggressive at it though. Subtle things tell your puppy that you are in the leadership role. If you are harsh with the puppy, you will make them afraid of you and they will not be able to bond with you at that point.

At a young age, you can teach your puppy to sit. To do this, simply put your hand on his chest and the other on his rump. Say the command 'sit' and push down on their rump and up on the chest. When she does it, praise her verbally and give her a treat. Keep practicing this with her. Whenever you give the dog its food, make her sit before you give it to her. This is a "nothing in life is free" technique. The dog learns that you are in charge and that to get his food he must obey you.

Lastly, it is important to note that the best techniques for raising your animal are those that surround compassion, patience and love.

Best Pet Health Information is a resource which will help you find infomation, hints and tips to keeping your puppy happy and healthy. Dog News Center publishes news and articles about dogs and puppies.

http://www.best-pet-health.info This article may be reprinted in full so long as the resource box and live links are included intact.

How To Stop Your Dog From Barking

2008-12-16T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Chris S

Training your dog to stop barking is one of the biggest issues you will face as a dog owner.

Excessive dog barking is a real pest for dog owners, their families and also the neighbours. But it is a fact of life that just as us humans love to talk, our dogs also love to communicate through their barking.

So it is a natural thing for your dog to bark, it's just when the barking is excessive that it becomes a big problem, and a nuisance for all concerned.

Dogs bark for any number of reasons, finding out the trigger that sets your dog off is the key to solving the barking problem. Once you identify why your dog is barking or howling too much, you can then start to plan a solution to this behavioral problem.

One thing to keep in mind is that your aim is not to completely stop your dog from barking, rather just controlling it.

Why Do Dogs Bark Excessively?

To express their needs (being bossy)
They are staking out their territory
To alert other members of their pack (you and your family) of impending danger
When playing, through sheer excitement
Barking at other animals like squirrels or possums (my dogs get really cranky at possums, I'm in Australia)
If they are isolated
If they are separated from their pack (you and your family)
If they are trapped behind some type of barrier such as a fence or window. They may be able to smell, see or hear something that they can't get at (like the postman)
They don't realise that barking is unacceptable and just do it for fun or out of habit
To express dominance
They bark because their owners have inadvertently rewarded their excessive barking in the past (this is important to understand)
Lack of physical or mental stimulation
They may be uncomfortable or stressed for some reason. Things such as they feel threatened or they don't have an appropriate place to sleep.
The dog may bark because he hasn't been properly socialized.
May be looking for a response or some attention from his pack
Always keep in mind that although your dog may appear to be barking at nothing, in actual fact he probably is reacting to something. This is due to your dog having a much more acute sense of smell and hearing than us humans.

How To Stop Your Dog From Barking

The most important thing is to clearly communicate to your dog, what is acceptable behavior and what is not (in this case we are talking about excessive barking, but this rule applies whenever you are correcting any behavior problems).

One of the most common mistakes us dog owners make is to inadvertently reward our dogs excessive barking. When our dogs are excessively barking we actually reinforce the behavior when we do these things:

Yell and scream at the dog - this just gives them the attention they were craving.
Let them inside - this rewards their behavior.
Give them a comforting cuddle or some praise - this communicates to your dog that you are happy with them. What you want to communicate is that this nuisance barking is inappropriate.

Once you have established the reason why your dog is barking, you can then apply one or more of these proven techniques:

Totally ignore the barking. This is a tough one to enforce but is very effective if your dog is barking to get attention. Just ignore your dog, don't even look at him. His barking will probably get worse to start with, but once he realises that it is not getting him anywhere, he will stop.
Following on from the above technique, you must reward or praise your dogs good behavior. If your dog is behaving appropriately in a situation where he would normally be barking you must let him know you are happy with him.
If you catch your dog in the act of barking, say No! and spray him with water. If you are consistent and use this method every time your dog barks, you will break the habit. This method uses the power of negative association. Every time your dog barks something unpleasant happens to him.
Shield your dog from the distraction or cause of the barking. This could mean filling in any gaps in your fence or drawing the blinds.
Obedience training helps with any behavioral problems. A properly trained dog will be easy to control and eager to please you in any situation. You can teach the Quiet! or Stop! command to stop your dog from barking.
If you believe your dog is stressed you can try to make his area feel comfortable and secure to him. Put the radio on for him, provide some good chew toys and get a suitable kennel that he'll love.
Give your dog lots of attention as well as plenty of physical and mental stimulation.
When you see that your dog is about to start barking, call him over, get him to sit, then praise and reward him.
Teach your dog to perform an alternate behavior to the excessive barking. If your dog goes off every time someone phones you, teach your dog to perform the down and stay command instead.
Some people have had good success using Citronella Collars. Each time your dog barks, the collar sprays a mist of citronella into the air which causes your dog to stop barking. Similar to these collars are one's which emit high frequency noises that your dog doesn't like.
Anti Barking Shock Collars are also used in cases of severe nuisance barking. These collars provide a correction or negative association each time your dog barks, in the form of a mild shock.
A controversial method to stop your dog from barking is Debarking Surgery. This is a method I have never tried on my dogs and don't think I ever would. If your dog has a chronic barking problem it may be worth discussing this option with your Veterinarian.
If your dog barks excessively while you are at work or are not home with him you can try this technique. When you arrive home ignore your dog, just go about your business for a while. Once your dog has settled down then go to him and pay him attention. Otherwise your dog will think his barking has caused you to come home. This will just encourage him to bark more and more, until you arrive home.

Whichever method you decide to use to stop your dog from barking make sure you are consistent and always reward appropriate behavior.

Chris Smith is a dog owner and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com
Find out the best techniques to successfully obedience train your dog at home.
Why not establish a proper relationship with your dog, built on trust and respect?

Dog Training Sit And Release

2008-12-15T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Samantha Abbott

Dog training begins with the basic commands. Sit and release are very important and should be taught to every dog. These basic commands will provide the foundation for your dog's obedience training. They are essential for your dog to learn in order for him to be a good citizen.

Hold a treat or toy in front of your dog's nose, just out of his reach. If your treat is food, make sure it is very small pea-sized pieces of food. Slowly move the treat above and behind your dog's head, luring him into a sit position. Say your dog's name, then give the command, "Sit." At the exact second your dog sits, praise him by saying the word "good."

To let your dog up from sitting, give him a release command such as "free" or "break." Do not use the word OK as your release command as this is used too commonly during normal speech.

Your dog will most likely not sit the first try, but will make movement toward the sitting position. Praise him for any movement that gets him toward the sitting position. Be careful not to hold the treat or toy too high or your dog will lift his feet off the ground.

Repeat these steps throughout your training session, which should last between five and ten minutes. Your dog will not only begin to associate the verbal "sit" command with sitting, but will start associating your hand signal too.

As your dog learns, start giving the sit voice and hand commands before you use the treat. Once your dog begins to sit on command, stop using the treat and simply reinforce with praise when your dog sits. Gradually increase the time from initiating the sit and giving your dog the release command.

Within a week, your dog should sit when you tell him to. You and your dog will build on what you learn this week with more complex commands

Visit my Dog Training Clinic web site for more information on dog and puppy obedience training. http://www.dogtrainingclinic.com

Make money from your dog-related web site. http://www.dogsiteads.com

If you have the Cutest Puppy on the Planet, enter the contest here. http://www.cutestpuppyontheplanet.com

Meet The Beauceron

2008-12-14T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Evan Richer

The Beauceron is a large dog that weighs between 75-110 lbs. Their height ranges between 24" to 27 ½". Loyal, protective and territorial, the Beauceron makes an excellent watchdog that will ward off any intruders or those that they perceive as a threat to their family and home.

Although the Beauceron is not currently recognized by the AKC, an application for recognition has been filed. Acceptable colors for Beaucerons include black and tan or tri-color (black, tan and grey). They are double coated with a medium length, dense, coarse and straight outer coat and a dense undercoat. Their coat is easy to care for and requires minimal grooming.

This large, energetic dog is extremely protective of family and territory. They can be aggressive with animals they don't know or strangers. However, when raised with other dogs, pets and children from puppyhood they can do well. Because of their size, they are recommended for older, well behaved children. When outside, they should be in a secured yard. They can be calm with their family, but are an overall energetic breed that requires plenty of exercise, play and time to run. Early training is recommended as they can have a stubborn streak. Once trained, they will follow their master's commands. With a strong herding instinct, they have a tendency to herd family and other pets. They like to be with family.

Dating back to 16th century France, the Beauceron was bred to herd sheep. They are also known as Berger de Beuce and Bas Rouge (Red Stocking) for the markings on their legs. They were used during WWI and WWII to detect land mines and find the wounded. Their high trainability makes them excellent at this job as well as in police work. The Beauceron has a natural guarding instinct and has also traditionally been used as a guard dog and watchdog.

With such a high instinct to protect their home and family, the Beauceron makes an excellent guard dog. Homes that can appreciate their loyalty and protective drive are essential. They are also very energetic and work well with families that enjoy outside activity.

Learn more about the Beauceron or discuss Dogs with other dog lovers at http://www.deardoggy.com/

The Rottweiler Guardian And Protector

2008-12-13T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Michael Russell

The Rottweiler is a breed whose history is somewhat shrouded. One theory has it that the ancestors of the breed were the dogs which were brought to Europe as War Dogs by the legions of Rome and some were left behind as the Legionnaires marched onwards. In any case, in the city of Rottweiler, a flourishing commercial and agricultural marketplace in southern Germany, for many centuries there was a breed of dog with the general appearance of the Rottweiler of today. This dog was used for its droving abilities and as a guardian against marauding animals and thieves. The animal was such an excellent protector against thieves that it has been noted in history that the moneybags for trade at the market were carried around the necks of these dogs.

The Rottweiler of today is noted for its high intelligence and trainability. In Germany, which requires strict control of the breeding population and is the home of the Ring Sport of Schutzhund, the Rottweiler is a superior competitor and often a strong contender for some of the highest titles. The dog has gained in popularity in the United States where it has continued to serve mankind in many areas, including a dog for military use, a guide dog for the blind, a police dog, a search dog and a family guardian and pet.

The Rottweiler should have a compact and muscular appearance. The head is square with a definite stop and bold look to the eye. The ears are folded over neatly and set high and are not overly long. The neck should be of solid proportion and strongly set on the shoulders, which should be well laid back for strength and pulling power. All in all, the entire appearance should be one of strength and solid power. The color of the Rottweiler is shiny black with rich tan markings above the eyes, on the cheeks and jaws and upper chest, a tan blaze mark should appear between the forelegs and on all four legs.

The character of the Rottweiler is willing, anxious to please and highly intelligent. He is also quite a happy dog, playful and with great spirit, never tiring of fun and games as long as it is with people that he loves. He is somewhat of a clown as a puppy and young dog, often not maturing and becoming "steady" until after the age of two. He will give great affection to people that he considers belong to him and will remain faithful and loyal. This is a dog that must be brought up as a social dog however, for he carries within his genetic history a fierce guarding and protective instinct and needs to learn early on that people are to be his charges and are not a threat. The Rottweiler has great strength and courage and a protective nature and when this is channeled in the right direction he will be the faithful guardian he is meant to be. However in the hands of an ignorant or irresponsible owner, this dog can do great damage because of those same instincts.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs.

About Baby Bunnies

2008-12-12T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Glenn Livingston, Ph.D.

Well, first, if you want to have bunny babies you should read everything you can on the subject and also talk to your local animal shelters and rabbit rescue organizations. (Rabbit overpopulation is a big issue,... it's usually better to adopt than to breed).

In any case, here are a few essentials you'll need to know about rabbit babies:

* Rabbits breed very quickly. A female can have a litter of as many as nine babies each month. They can have as many as 200 baby bunnies in one year. In fact, females can get pregnant again as quickly as 24 hours after giving birth.

* You'll be able to tell if the female is pregnant a few days after conception. Because her hormones are wreaking havoc with her, she will become moody and aggressive. You'll also be able to feel her nipples growing. Continue to feed her unlimited hay, fresh greens and limited pellets. The mom-to-be should be housed separately for her own health and comfort.

* Once the babies are born, their mom will clean them off. Then, you should remove them from the living area to check on their conditions and take away any babies who did not survive. Keep the nest box with the bunnies inside then take them to nurse from their mom in the morning and in the evening each day.

* You'll notice the bunnies are born with their eyes closed and naked. Their fur will begin to grow immediately, but it takes time to fill out. The babies will begin opening their eyes when they are between 10 and 13 days old.

* You'll want to make sure the babies continue to nurse until they are at least two months old. By the third week, they'll want to start exploring outside of the nesting box. Make sure you have a flat, comfortable surface for them to run around on. You don't want them to stand on wires because they have tiny feet that could easily get stuck, causing them injury. Refer to the Dietsection of our book (below) for ages the bunnies can begin eating pellets, hay and fresh vegetables and fruit.

* When the babies are seven weeks old, you'll want to allow them to nurse from their mother only every other day, in order to prepare them for the weaning stage. When they are two months old, you'll want to wean them completely from their mother's milk.

* You can tell a male from a female when the male's testicles drop.

* Start putting the babies in different living quarters when they are approximately three months old.

Rabbit Care Secrets You can get the book here: http://www.rabbitsecrets.com/R.htm is the book with literally hundreds of "word of mouth" tips and tricks - secrets which are next to impossible to find in books and pet stores. This is the gold which only comes from years and years of hands on experience... including all the hard to find Rabbit information people just can't locate with internet searches or trips to the library!

Alarm Clock Kitty How To Stop Early Morning Meowing

2008-12-11T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Andrew Markison

Meow! Meow! Meow! I bury my head underneath my pillow. Meow! Meow! Meoooooow! The high pitched meowing persists and penetrates through my feather stuffed shield. Meow! Meow! Meow! My eyes open only with the greatest of efforts. Grudgingly, I drag myself out of my warm bed and look at the clock; 3:47 am. I reach over to the night-stand and turn on the light, pain is the result, the light, so bright, the light is, so, so bright. My wife rolls over on her side and I can see the annoyed look on her scrunched up little face. "Must.... feed.... demon... cat...." I say to myself as I trudge to the kitchen to empty a can of cat food into the little yellow cat dish. The cat has by this time woken up the entire household and I wouldn't be surprised if the neighbors were also awake.

Our cat is a loud cat. Unnervingly loud. 747 jet-engine loud. And there was a time that she woke up every morning before even the sun had the nerve to peek over the horizon. Our loveable little ball of fur wanted to be fed. While the rest of the household was fast asleep our sweet little kitty wanted to have some food to suck down her gullet. This caused quite a bit of frustration for us, especially since this was not a one time thing. No, this was indeed becoming her morning ritual. Every morning, our cat would sit in front of our door and meow at the top of her little kitty lungs the most blood curdling meows I had ever had the displeasure of hearing. Our initial reaction, after caving in and feeding her several nights/early mornings in a row, was to put her in the laundry room before my wife and I went to sleep at night. This, however, was not the best solution in the world, our cuddly little black mass didn't seem to like it very much and after a while she wasn't the warm and cuddly cat we knew before.

There must to be another solution to this dilemma. Fortunately, there is. What your cat is, is what has been termed as an "alarm clock kitty", what that is, is a cat that wakes up very early (or stays up very late) and begins to meow at approximately the same time every single, bloody day in expectation of being fed. Unfortunately for those of us who enjoy sleeping at night this is a natural behavior in cats and while the problem may not happen to every cat owner it happens to many. So what can you do? Even though cats have been domesticated animals for thousands of years now dating back to ancient Egypt, they still have retained most of their wild instincts and this is a cat's natural instinct; hunt and feed. Cats are predatory animals, they hunt, and the cat's natural time to hunt generally falls between dusk and dawn because most of the prey they hunt are nocturnal (rats, mice and other rodents). So, if you can't or don't want to let your cat out at night to hunt on her own what should you do?

Training your cat to stop this behaviour may be fairly easy, but be warned, it will take a little patience on your part but a good night's sleep may be the reward. What you need is a cat toy, preferably a mouse or something similar, a piece of string and a stick. Attach the cat toy to a string and the string to the stick. While you are watching your bedtime TV or doing whatever your before bedtime ritual is take your cat toy and play a hunting game with her. Cats love to chase things because of their hunting instinct. Play with your cat for about 15 minutes, enough time to tire your cat out and give her the satisfaction of having hunted. During your game create as realistic a hunting scenario as you can, make noises like a mouse (or whatever animal you are emulating) squeaking or scurrying through the brush. Let your cat catch the toy from time to time so that your cat will feel as if she was involved in a successful (rather than a frustrating) hunt. Towards the end gradually slow down the game drawing your little hunt to a close. Your cat will probably be sufficiently tired by this time. At the end of the game feed your cat something you know she likes. You don't need to feed her a full sized meal, but feed her an amount sufficient enough to satisfy her hunger. A handful of cat treats or a little piece of left over pork chop may be sufficient. Then go to sleep. In all likelihood your cat will be satisfied and will not continue her ritual of waking you up every morning.

You may need to continue your hunting game with your cat for a week or two before the early morning meowing goes away, and even after it does its a good idea to play this game with your cat from time to time in order to keep the behavior from returning and to keep your cat feeling like an accomplished hunter. But if you follow this routine you should be able to satisfy your cat and get a little shut eye at the same time.

Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.

Dog Breeds So You Want A New Best Friend

2008-12-10T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Allen Shaw

So you want a new best friend. Well why not choose a new best friend known for its undying loyalty and dependabilitya dog. But what kind of dog should you get? Simplefirst you need to understand your reason for getting a dog.

For example, are you looking for a protector? Then maybe a German Shepherd or a Rottweiler is what you are looking for. Are you more interested in a dog known for its ability to do tricks so you can impress your friends? Then any dog in the terrier or poodle families may be the best choice for you. Maybe you're overly impressed with the "cuteness" factor of toy breeds.2 Cocker Spaniels, Chihuahuas, or Shih Tzus may be for you. So let's take a look at the different breeds.

It can be a daunting task to decide on what kind of dog to buy. There are breeds from which to choose. So how do does the inexperienced future dog owner decide. Simple. The first thing every future master should know is that all dogs, no matter their breed, can be lumped together into four major groups; Working dogs, Sporting Dogs, Toy Dogs and the Mutt. First you have to know why you want a dog. So let's look at the four categories.

WORKING DOGS

Working dogs include German Shephards, Rottweilers, Collies, Hounds and nearly all of the larger breeds. These are breeds known for the fierce loyalty, their quick minds and their ability to learn quickly. Shephards and Rottweilers are good for protection and search and rescue. Retrievers and Setters are highly valued to hunters for their ability to swim and track prey. Collies are known for their instinctive herding ability and have been a very important member of the rancher's families for hundreds of years. Hounds are fantastic trackers and are used by search and rescue teams all over the world because of their incredible sense of smell.

SPORTING DOGS

Retrievers and Setters are the two major exceptions to the rule that most large breeds belong to the working dog category. Retrievers and Setters are highly valued by the sporting and hunting communities for their instinctive ability to retrieve. Hunters use Labrador Retrievers for hunting various birds, especially ducks. Labs are known for their love of the water. That, combined with their innate love of the game fetch, makes the lab the number-one choice of hunters and other sportsman.

TOY DOGS

Toy breeds seem to have the most press in recent years thanks to their popularity with celebrities. Paris Hilton and Britney Spears have brought the Chihuahua back into the spotlight. Jessica Simpson is pushing the lovability of the Maltese. The strongest drawing card for these breeds is the all-powerful "cute factor." These are the breeds, which also include Shih Tzu's, Terriers, Pugs and Dachshunds, which are routinely spoiled to the point that their owners no longer realize they even have a canine. They are convinced they have a little human in the house.

MUTTS

Of the breeds available, Mutts are probably the most plentiful and the most diverse. Everything from a Cockapoo (part Cocker, part Poodle) to a Rottsund (part Rottweiller, part Dachshund) is available. Mutts come in all shapes, sizes, colors, temperaments and personalities. And they can be found in every Humane Society and Rescue Society in the world. They can be smart and they can be stupid. They can be cute and they can be downright ugly. And the best partwith a Mutt, there's definitely a dog out there for everyone.

There are of course other things to consider when buying a dog. What is its reputation with children? How big do they get? What are the health problems associated with a certain breed? Am I going to show the dog or is it primarily going to be a pet? All good questions, and all should be thoroughly researched before deciding on a certain breed. But before you consider the answers to breed-specific questions, you should understand your own reasons for owning a dog. If you are looking for a protector and go to the local pound and take home a Chihuahua, neither you or Tinkerbelle are going to be happy. So before you do your research and decide to buy a dog, do a little soul searching. If you understand and accept your own reasons for getting a dog, it will make you a more understanding owner. That understanding translates to a happy dog. And isn't that what all dog owners want.

Use with active URLS.

Allen Shaw is a successful author who provides pet tips and information on dogs and dog breeds. Read articles on different breeds at Dogs 'N' U.

Looking After Your Dog Part Two A Comfy Bed For Your Dog

2008-12-09T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Niall Kennedy

Your dog needs the comfort of a warm bed in much the same way as you do. Purchasing a dog bed is considered by many as being extravagant. However, it's far from being a luxury item, and is in fact a necessity. You would not want your dog to sneak onto your couch or curl up on your bed. You can avoid such a situation by providing your dog with a comfy bed of its own.

As dogs grow older, they tend to suffer from arthritis. Therefore, sleeping on a hard and cold floor can be a painful ordeal for them. Such sleepless nights may in turn render your dog lethargic and unwilling to go for a walk or exercise. Orthopedic dog beds aid in relieving such symptoms. A warm dog bed will provide the much needed comfort for your dog, especially on a cold night.

A nice dog bed makes your dog feel a bit more secure, and enhances its health and emotional wellbeing. Dogs are territorial and typically favor a particular area where they like to lie down more often. This is where you should place the dog bed.

With an elaborate range of designs and makes, dog beds can be quite fashionable as well. According to need, you can buy a small, large, quilted or water-proofed dog bed.

Another aspect that you need to consider while buying a dog bed is its appropriate size. You may have a rough idea of this by gauging the area covered by your dog in its natural sleeping position. Also ensure that the bed type is something that suits your faithful canine friend.

Investing in a dog bed is as essential as providing good food for your dog. Don't choose a dog bed just because it's easy on the pocket. Your main concern should be durability and comfort. A good quality dog bed may last the lifetime of your dog, while a cheaper one may wear out quickly. Therefore, give the best to your faithful canine companion.

Niall Kennedy is a lifelong dog lover and has worked in several pet sanctuaries. Best Pet Health Information is a resource that brings you information about many aspects of dog health and care. You will also find great deals on medication for dogs such as Frontline, Advantage and Revolution. http://www.Best-Pet-Health.info. Dog News Center - Dog Article Directory - Submit Your Articles Now

An Ounce Of Prevention Is Worth A Pound Of Bite

2008-12-08T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Steve Allison

One of the most common misconceptions people have is that their own dogs won't bite. While everybody feels some level of respect for a big, growling dog we are becoming too nonchalant about our own dogs. How confident are you that your dog will never bite anyone?

Do the words - Wouldn't hurt a fly come to mind? We all think that our own dogs are gentle natured until they prove us otherwise. Dog owners often claim their dogs are completely comfortable with children. I myself was bitten as a child it happens often and even usually mild mannered dogs can snap. Children are a little more vulnerable and a little snap that wouldn't injure an adult can have dire consequences for a well-meaning child.

Dogs can inflict potentially life threatening injuries. Luckily my injuries were only superficial. Some corrective surgery and a few years of healing and the physical evidence have all but gone. Many are not as fortunate.

Tragically for the most part, these kinds of bites are completely avoidable. Dogs don't bite people without provocation right? Not quite. It's true it does take some provoking to get a usually mild mannered dog to bite the triggers aren't as obvious as you would think.

So why do dogs bite?

Experts still disagree as to whether dogs bite because of human provocation or breeding. While it is indisputable that certain breeds of dogs do bite more than others it's also hard to argue with thousands of year's worth of domestication. People have been trying to breed the aggressive out of the dog for the most part anyway.

There are some human behaviors that can provoke even docile dogs:

-Fiddling with their food: don't disturb your dog (or any dog) while they are eating.

-Sudden movements can upset dogs, if a strange dog is growling at you its best to back away slowly.

-The old saying let sleeping dogs lie is true. Don't startle a dog that is sleeping.

-Dogs have a powerful sense of territory, and may become upset when someone unfamiliar threatens their space.

-Don't try to disrupt a dog fight.

-Dogs have strong maternal instincts and if there are puppies you should be careful not to startle the mother (or any adult dog the area).

-Dogs can be confused about the cause of their own illness or pain; they might think it was the owner who caused the pain and bite.

-Dogs become afraid just like humans any dog can bite if it feels it is in danger.

-All dogs experience some form of possessiveness. Tread carefully if a dog is growling at you chances are you're on his turf.

-Looking a dog in the eyes is seen as a challenging of dominance. If a dog is growling at you lower your eyes and back away slowly.

Preventing dog bites starts with the owner. If you have a dog you can reduce the risk that your dog might attack someone with some of these suggestions.

-Have your dog spayed or neutered. Not only does it prevent many kinds of health problems later in life, it drastically reduces the aggression levels in male and female dogs.

-Start socializing your puppy at a young age. Get your puppy used to being in a busy and unfamiliar environment as soon as he is vaccinated.

-Invest in some kind of formal training program. This will give you an immense faith in your dog and strengthen the relationship between you two.

-Take your dog to the vet regularly and make sure all his vaccinations are always up to date. Get your dog licensed and keep up to date on all his paperwork.

-Never let your dog wander freely. Your dog should be contained on your property and you should be able to control his access to the street.

By following these very few and common sense steps you can reduce an attack or bites by a wide margin. Be a responsible owner and start working with your puppy or dog today.

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu's and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

Training A Puppy To Walk On A Leash

2008-12-07T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Chris S

The good thing about training a puppy to walk on a leash is that you can prevent any problems before they eventuate. It's much easier to start leash training early on with a puppy, than to re-train an older dog with established leash behavioral problems.

Having a properly leash trained puppy makes life much simpler and safer for the dogs future. And of course it means that taking your dog for a walk is an enjoyable experience, for both you the owner and also your dog.

How To Train A Puppy To Walk On A Leash

The first step can take place as soon as you get your young puppy home. Just get your pup familiar and comfortable wearing a collar. A simple buckle collar is fine for this purpose. Put the collar on when you feed your puppy or when you are playing with him. Most puppies don't have a problem with the collar, it may just take a little getting used to. If your puppy is rolling around or trying to scratch the collar off, don't take it off him at this time. Wait till he has settled down or forgotten about it, then take it off.

The next step is similar to the first, it involves the leash. This time get your dog used to the look and feel of his leash. For young puppies all you need is a light weight, thin leash. You can upgrade to a fancy leather leash when your puppy is properly leash trained if you like. Put the leash on your puppy and just let him check it out and drag it around with him (always under your supervision). Once again your goal is to make your puppy comfortable with the leash and not fear it in any way.

When your puppy is comfortable wearing the collar and dragging the leash around (may take up to a couple of weeks) it is time for you to pick up the other end of the leash. Make these first leash training sessions short, sharp and fun. And always keep in mind that your goal is to communicate to your dog that pulling on the leash is never acceptable. Therefore you must never reward his pulling by giving in to him. Be consistent with your message to him and always praise his good behavior (in this case, walking on a loose leash).

To start with just walk around the house with the leash in hand, and your puppy trotting along side you. Give him plenty of vocal praise, petting and even a few treats. At this early stage puppies love to follow their owners around, you should use this to your advantage. If your puppy pulls on the leash (which he will, don't expect him to just know this stuff) immediately stop. Don't yank him back over to you with the leash, just call him over and praise him when he comes. Then set off for more of a stroll and repeat this correction each time your dog pulls on the leash. It must be every time he strains on the leash, you have to teach him that when he pulls, it gets him nowhere. The same correction applies when your puppy sits down while you are walking. Don't yank him forward to you, just stop and call him toward you.

This leash training method results in your dog not pulling and you not pulling, just a nice loose leash hanging down between you and your dog. It will take a bit of persistence and patience on your part, but it is well and truly worth it.

Chris Smith is a dedicated dog owner and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Discover the right way to obedience train your dog at home. The latest cutting edge and proven techniques.

Pet Loss

2008-12-06T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Steven Quid

When a beloved pet dies, some people simply accept the pet loss, as a regular part of life. People that have strong feelings for their pets are deeply affected by their grief. In taking responsibility for owning a pet, we accept the burden of every aspect for that pets life.As a pet grows from a baby to adult, that pets responsibility and affection becomes a way of life to us. This mutual bonding becomes an exchange of need and fulfillment between owner and pet. It's ironic that we become dependent on our pets as well. We rely on their needing us.

When a pet eventually dies, as we all must, we are never prepared emotionally, from our pet loss. We first get an extreme case of separation anxiety. Our routine and patterns are disrupted abruptly by the loss of our pets. Understanding the phases of grief and mourning that other people have gone through, can help us through our loss and bereavement. Often the way we react depends upon the circumstances of how our love ones pass, and how attached we were to them.

Shock and Disbelief

This usually is the first stage. Weather the pets death was sudden or expected. It doesn't seem real. We have trouble accepting the truth, and are not equipped to handle the reality of the pet loss. We all experience this to some degree.

Anger

When the numbness wears off, we are often overwhelmed by anger. This emotion must be released and let go. Withheld anger can become a potent force in self destructiveness. It is common to feel anger when something we love is taken away from us.

Depression and Grief

We feel overwhelmed and very sad at the loss of our love one. All we seem to care about is the loss of our pet,and our own misery. Appetite loss, and difficulty to sleep are signs of this emotion. Depression is the most normal of the stages to our pets death. We need some time And privacy to recover through our depression and grief.

Give Yourself Time

The length of time to recover varies with each individual. Some need more time and support than others. We have to give time for release of grief without diminishing the memory of our pet. We never lose a sense of bereavement for a pet. But we do learn to be less and less overwhelmed by their death.

Moving On

No matter what method you choose, a Pet Memorial, or Garden Memorial etc... You should offer a simple eulogy to help closure to the event. It's a chance to be involved with the final experience with your pet. And to realize your loss and express feeling about it. It will give you a chance to say, "You are gone, but not forgotten"

Your relationship with your pet is very special. Keep them in your heart and they will never be forgotten.

Pet Loss Click Here!

Shih Tzu Color Highly Prized Colors And Markings

2008-12-05T08:00:00.000-08:00

Writen by Connie Limon

By the 1930's, the Peking Kennel Club was faced with the existence of a variety of colors. The Peking Kennel Club wanted to do justice to the facts of history regarding the highly favoured Imperial color of "Tawny or honey-coloured or Golden - The Yellows." At that time, their Shih Tzu standard read: "All colors permissible, single and mixed. Tawny or honey-coloured highly favoured." The British Shih Tzu standard read: "All colors permissible," but adds the words, "a white blaze on the forehead and a white tip to the tail are highly prized." And now the French Shih Tzu standard of the mid-1950's comments "honey-colored and white are rare and much appreciated."

It has been said the color "white" in Shih Tzu is recessive and such Shih Tzu should not be bred. However, there is fact that a leading French breeder in Peking - not the Countess d'anjou - had a large number of all-white Shih Tzu. There is question of who actually appreciated the all-white Shih Tzu. Was it the Westerners more than the natives of the Peking? This question arises out of the fact that there seems little doubt that a "a pure white dog, being the color of mourning to the Chinese people, was not an asset, because the Chinese people truly hate to be reminded of death." The aversion did not apply to the white markings on the head or the tail. This could also account to the scarcity we now have of the all-white Shih Tzu. Down through time, the American Kennel Club judged them in the Miscellaneous Class, which ran "all colors are allowable but in general the darker shades predominate. The white blaze, collar, socks and tail-tip combine to create a highly prized ensemble" of a Shih Tzu.

Since the Chinese regarded the yellow-colored Shih Tzu as especially precious we can also understand that it was particularly difficult for westerners to get hold of them. In the Lion Dog Through the Looking Glass (a publication during the 1950's) it is told that the black and white, and grey and white were the first found on the market at street fairs in China, yet even in their cases exportation was at first forbidden. It seems to me we can conclude, the Shih Tzu owners and breeders of Peking, The Chinese People, were extremely possessive of the Shih Tzu in their favoured color, of Yellow, yet were also somewhat possessive of all of the other colors as well. The Shih Tzu was surely very highly treasured by the Chinese people in those days. They were selfish with them. Makes one think they knew something about them very secret and most likely it was something that brought them great emotional pleasure. All humans are drawn to anything that brings them great emotional pleasure.

When it did become possible to export specimens of the breed, the least favoured colors were the most easily obtainable. Some years later, in the Great Britain show ring the dominant colors were black and white, grey and white and shades of brindle and white with a few solid blacks. Even today, these are the same exact colors I started out with in my breeding of the Shih Tzu. I have a few of the Chinese Yellow, honey, or golden colors. Most plentiful to purchase for me has been the black and the white, the grey and white and the brindles. I still tend to believe our deep hershey chocolate color is a "new" color in the breed, as is the "blue." The American Kennel Club has just recently added the color "blue" to their list of colors on their AKC registration forms.

Color in the Shih Tzu is so fascinating and to me are the most beautiful shades of several basic colors of the black, gold and grey. We might even owe the highly prized white tips to the tail and on top the head to the very early French breeder who had the all-white Shih Tzu that left us few descendants. White still seems to be harder to find, and does not seem as popular as the blue and chocolate in the years of 2000. I have one white female, Bailey of whom I am hoping to produce other solid whites, but also the chocolates and blue's as I mate her to my different males. Visit us and sign up for our NEW weekly ezine for future breedings to see what we come up with.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Coupons for shih tzu puppies and other products are offered to subscribers. Updates of available puppies. Sign up at http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Dog Grooming

2008-12-04T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by J. Howard Moore

Dog Grooming & Routine Care

All dogs need regular grooming. It improves the appearance of short coated dogs, and is essential for those with long coats. It also does much to stop unwanted hair on the furniture and carpets. Start as soon as you get your dog or puppy. If you get dogs used to grooming from an early age they will accept it as a normal routine and become to enjoy it.

For the shorter haired dogs a fairly firm clothes brush will be sufficient, but if you need one that's a bit stiffer your local pet store should have a wide choice of brushes. Regular brushing will remove the loose hair and give a shine to the dogs coat. For long haired breeds a strong steel comb as well as a brush is essential. So many owners think they are grooming their dogs when they are actually only running a brush over the surface of the tangled coat. A daily grooming should prevent the formation of matts and tangles, even in spaniels and poodles.

Parasites

Remember while grooming your dog to look for parasites such as fleas and lice which may have been picked up by your dog. To see how to deal with these, please visit our pet website which is shown below.

You may also find grass seeds in the coat, and especially between the toes. These, if not removed, may penetrate the skin causing painful abscesses. A daily examination of the coat will also give you the opportunity to check for skin irritations that may need attention.

Foot Care.

The feet should be examined daily, especially the hairy types of dog such as spaniels, for the presence of thorns. It is better to keep the hair between the toes and under the pads trimmed short, and to wash the feet after exercise in muddy weather. The accumulation of grit and hard packed mud under the pads may contribute to the formation of cysts or boils on the feet. Keeping your dogs feet clean is a must.

Author - John Moore - Family man and animal lover. Please use my link http://www.pet-dog-cat.com.

Safety In The Fresh Air And The Outdoors For Your Cat How To Build A Cattery

2008-12-03T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Niall Kennedy

Animal welfare organizations and humane societies have been very successful in helping people to accept that their cats are safer living exclusively indoors, especially in urban areas. However, cat lovers still want to give their cats a chance to enjoy fresh air and all the sights and sounds that come with it. One way to do this safely is to create a cattery.

The term cattery originally referred to a facility that kept and bred colonies of cats. Today, the term is being used to describe a sort of pet playpen. A home cattery is an enclosed, outdoor area in which a pet cat can bask in the sun or exercise. The site can be a lawn, a porch or an apartment balcony, and a variety of building plans can be found on the Internet. The important ingredients of a cattery are size, security and access.

How big to build depends on the activity level of your cat and the amount of space available. If you have an acrobatic cat living in your apartment, you might try to build a structure taller than it is wide, with several ledges for her to jump around on. If your cat is more sedentary and you have a large yard, you might create a cattery that has one or two shelves, but has cat grass and catnip planted inside to provide sensory stimulation.

A cattery can be made from wooden posts and wire mesh. Be certain that all sharp edges are covered or made inaccessible to your cat. If you have a door to enter/exit the cattery, make sure it can be latched securely. Check the cattery frequently for holes or loose spots in the mesh. Make sure that the cattery has a roof. It doesn't have to be expensive - a sheet of strong cloth attached to the sides will do - something to keep your cat in, and anything else out.

If you build your cattery on your porch or balcony, include a cat door so your pet can come in and go out as she pleases. Put some cat toys out for her, and research what non-toxic plants you might put inside to make it like a jungle. Some people hang bird feeders outside the cattery to attract birds for their cat to watch. A scratching post and sturdy climbing pole are just the thing to encourage your cat to exercise.

Keep the cattery clean. Providing a litter box will cut down on the amount of clean up you need to do. Be sure to place a large, clean bowl of water in the cattery so your cat has access to fresh liquid as she needs it. If you have a problem with bugs then you should consider bug-proof food dishes. If you leave your cat in the cattery for long periods of time, don't forget to stock her with a bowl of dry cat food and make sure she has a way to get out of the sun or rain/snow, or make sure this is an area that is sheltered from extremes of weather.

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How To Paper Train A Puppy Without Ruining Your Floor Staining Your Carpet Amp Pulling Out Your Hair

2008-12-02T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Caroline Kent

You've just adopted the cutest, tiniest teacup Chihuahua puppy! You've brought him home and got him accustomed to his surroundings.

And now it's "housetraining a new puppy" time!

Uh, oh! But, there's one small problem. You've got to keep your puppy inside or that big ol' dog next door will eat him for breakfast! Or perhaps you live in an area, such as a city, house, or apartment where there is no access to a yard or fenced-in area?

Obviously, your cute teacup puppy can't use the litter box with the cat!

Now you're sweating at the thought of urine stains on your beautiful Persian carpet or a pile of poop on your expensive exotic hardwood flooring! You can relax, because there is a solution!

Housetraining a new puppy can easily be done inside by paper training!

Here are some basic guidelines for paper training a puppy:

1. Place several layers of newspaper in a spot that is away from the puppy's feeding and watering dishes.

After your puppy eats and drinks, take him to the papers. Also take your puppy to the papers, to urinate and defecate, the first thing in the morning and the last thing at night. He must also be taken to the papers after he chews, plays hard, and comes out of his crate.

2. Change the papers after each time that the puppy uses them.

Under the fresh papers, put a lightly soiled one. Your puppy will be encouraged to go to the bathroom by the scent left on the soiled paper.

3. Clean underneath the papers with an odor neutralizer.

If you fail to do so, your puppy will smell his scent on the floor and start sniffing around the edge of the paper. That's a no, no! You want to keep your puppy ON the paper and using an odor neutralizer will keep him focused on using the bathroom on the paper!

4. Clap your hands to startle your puppy if he makes a mistake.

Please! Just startle him. Don't scare the poor thing half to death! This will distract your puppy and stop him from urinating. Pick him up and take him to the paper where you want him to go. Lavishly praise your puppy when he finishes going to the bathroom!

5. Don't go BALISTIC if your puppy urinates or defecates off of the papers.

Don't punish him by spanking, yelling, or rubbing his nose in the mess! Remember, your puppy is just a baby. He made a mistake; he did not commit the crime of the century!

6. Do not use a product containing ammonia to clean up after your puppy.

Urine contains ammonia and that lovely familiar scent will invite your puppy to urinate again on that very same spot! If you are concerned about permanent odor or staining, putting plastic or waxed paper underneath the papers will help preserve your carpet or flooring.

7. You must be consistent.

Put your puppy on a schedule. If you alter the schedule or let your puppy do something differently one day and not the next, he will get confused!

8. Keep a close eye on your puppy.

Never, ever leave an untrained puppy alone in your house! Doing so is just asking for trouble!

9. Carry your puppy to different parts of your apartment or house and say "papers!"

Then, carry him back to the papers. This will train your puppy to go to the papers when he has the desire to go to the bathroom!

Paper training a puppy requires a great deal of consistency, a little common sense, and meticulous attention to clean up. With a little effort and patience, your puppy will eventually understand what you want him to do. In time, going to the bathroom on the papers will become second nature to him.

And you will have survived paper training a puppy!

For a free dog training guide containing more tips on paper training a puppy, be sure to visit: http://freedogtrainingguide.com/

Preparing For Your New Pet

2008-12-01T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Melanie Breeze

Getting a new pet can be a lot of fun. You can choose from a dog, cat, hamster, gerbil, rabbit, and the list goes on and on. No matter what pet you choose, you will need to outfit them with the latest and greatest in pet gear. If you shop smart, you should be able to find many of your items for cheap.

The key to getting a good deal on pet gear is to shop early. Buy your items before your pet comes home with you. That way you won't be rushed to pay more for the necessary items. The following is a list of supplies needed for a new pet.

Health supplies- vitamins and medications. These are available through your vets office or pet health websites like petmeds.com.

Food- daily food, plus treats. Do a bit of research to find the best type of food for your pet. Don't forget to have treats for good behavior or to add variety to your pet's diet.

Toys- catnip for cats, exercise wheels for hamsters, and chew toys for dogs. Try to get a variety of pets to keep your pet entertained and happy.

Cages/Crates- a place for your pet to call home. Every pet needs their own personal space. Make sure to set up their area prior to bringing the pet home.

Grooming supplies- specific to your type of pet.

The specifics of course, depend on the type of pet that you choose. All animals need food and water daily, as well as a chance to exercise and play.

Finding the cheapest pet gear is easier than you think. Try shopping online for the biggest discounts. You can try the larger chains like petsmart.com or you can try smaller specialty shops. Don't forget to try auction sites like EBay.com. I like to go to Couponchief.com for coupon codes for almost everything I buy. They have a section dedicated to pet gear, and you may be able to save quite a bit on your pet gear. Look for free shipping deals to help sweeten the deal.

A new pet can bring a lot of joy into a family. Don't break your budget buying pet gear. Bargain shop for the best deals, and buy only what you need. You can always buy more toys and treats as you find a good deal, so don't worry about buying out the store on the very first day.

Melanie Breeze, avid online shopper and user of http://CouponChief, is always shopping around for the best deals. You can find gardening http://www.couponchief.com discount coupon codes at CouponChief, all in one location. Always find a free coupon 1st before making ANY purchase!

Space And Shelter Needs For Your Horse Keeping A Horse On Your Property

2008-11-30T08:00:00.001-08:00

Writen by Randall Holman

Horses can be boarded at a commercial stable; however, keeping a horse on your property provides you with more management control, and saves you money. Though keeping your horse on your property allows greater enjoyment and learning experiences, it also requires you to be more attentive toward your horse and to be more knowledgeable in the care of your horse.

Horses are quite sturdy and adaptable and when it comes to providing adequate shelter, their needs are very basic. Horse shelter essentially needs to provide shade, ventilation, protection from the elements, and dry footing. Building a horse barn can be quite a project (and costly). If you have only basic carpentry skills or are on a limited budget, you may want to consider renovating a shed or other structure you may already have on your property or erecting a three-sided shelter.

A common horse shelter is an open-front building, or sometimes referred to as a lean-to or run-in shelter. These structures can be permanent or portable sheds. A portable structure is convenient as it can be moved to allow removal of manure or to be relocated when pasture is rotated. The open-front should always be positioned away from prevailing winds to offer better protection from rain and snow.

As a rule-of-thumb, at minimum, 80 square feet of floor space per average 1,000 pound horse should be provided. A 12-foot by 12-foot structure would be more ideal; however, many structures come prefabricated in 10-feet by 12-feet designs, which is also adequate. Most prefabricated shelters are between 8 to 10 feet high on the backside and 9 to 12 feet high on the open side.

Your horse also needs a large exercise area like a corral. The minimum exercise area should be about 1/8 acre, but 1/2 acre is better. If your horse is fed primarily hay, then keeping your horse on ½ acres is adequate. Ideally, you want to turn your horse out to managed pasture. Two acres per horse is best. However, one acre can provide adequate grazing, but requires more land management. Therefore, a combination of pasture and small lot or barn is needed to minimize overgrazing.

The most important thing about a fence is it must be visible to your horse. The fence must be visible to the horse to prevent it from becoming tangled in the fence or running through the fence. When using an electric fence, wide ribbon wire is best. Electric fencing should only be used as an interior fence, never as a major exterior fence.

Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of the above article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: http://www.FrontRangeFrenzy.com.